fchrisgrimm

Have fun Mike - we were just there last weekend, and I "filed my report" on the Montreal page (check it out). APDC is great. Anise is spectacular. Like you, I like Blue Hill - Anise is more that direction than in the super-formal (and super expensive) direction. Though I think the food is unbeatable. Enjoy the trip - good luck.

Overheard in one of my favorite fine & pricey restaurants. From a table where a young couple was clearly visiting for a "big date"... Customer: (unintelligible) Sommelier: (shrugging) I'm sorry, but the restaurant does not own a blender, so we can't serve blended drinks.

Glad you liked La Paella! We also returned last week for the usual terrific meal. Feel like I've had everything on the menu by now. I had the blood sausage, which was terrif, and the same pork tenderloin as your wife, which is always a reliable entre. The seafood risotto now has a lobster broth, but they accomodated Leslie by using the old green broth. I always get the rice pudding for dessert. Jaime does a fabulous job. La Paella is a gem.

Thanks for the tips - and with plenty of time until the trip, I'll welcome any other suggestions. Jon - good luck with the Gatewood - it's top of the list. cg

Picked up more from Cap'n Cliff this weekend. Borrowed Chris Amirault's recipe for boiling in beer with Bay seasonings. Made shrimp & grits yesterday, recipe from Hoppin' John's Lowcountry Cooking. Yum.

We have a trip planned for April to the Equinox. I'm in my usual plan-ahead mode. An old board noted the following... Chantecleer Reluctant Panther The Perfect Wife Bistro Henry's Grafitti's Emma's at the Silas Griffith Inn Curious about any updated opinions on the above, as well as any new recommendations for Manchester. Also, how's the grub at the Equinox. Finally, is there anything notable within driving distance? Half-hour or so. Might get the family as far as North Adams, MA (to hit MassMOCA), but can't imagine anything further. I eat any and everything, so am happy to hear of any unique area suggestions (not just sit-down).

Does one define New England as "Boston" and little else?

Isn't the appropriate answer "French Laundry"? Who is buried in Grant's tomb, anyway?

Had the roe filled shrimp tonight (boiled with bay seasoning). As a son of the South, I think the shrimp roe both tasted and felt (while eaten) like one thing and one thing only.... grits!

I'm no apologist for Legal Seafoods, though have always enjoyed the place well enough. Mostly eaten in Natick (while there on business, staying at the similarly chain-worthy Crowne Plaza all but next door). But have also been to Palisades Center, a couple in metro-DC (gotta love a Legal and National Airport), and one or two others in metro-Boston over the years. Getting to the point... could one not call Per Se a chain restaurant? Okay, we'll say no to that. How about this one - Is Vong a chain? The ability to master (at the very least) one dish isn't inherently diminished just because one becomes successful enough to expand, is it?

Leslie and I finally made it over to La Paella in Norwalk. While not everyone has agreed, we have been huge fans of Jaime Lopez's cooking at Mecca, which I thought (though very different) was dish-to-dish, dollar-for-dollar as good as Meigas. I was a bit worried when I heard about the changes, fearing that an attempt to be more like Meigas (my impression of the change) might be a recipe for disaster, as the place could lose the emphasis on qualities that set it apart. Thankfully, those qualities (and many of the favorite dishes) that made Mecca such a wonderful place have migrated to the La Paella menu. Green seafood rissotto, for instance. Jaime is spending (so I am told) less time on the floor and more time back in the kitchen. The biggest change in the restaurant is that a small wine bar has been built across the mid-front of the place, which also divides the place, making the dining room (in back) a little more cozy and less right-up-against-Main-Street. The menu is largely the same as at Mecca, with the addition of three Paella options and a conversion and expansion of the appetizer choices into a tapas menu. That said, many of the aps are those that were on the Mecca menu and many of the terrific 'one-dish' style main courses, like the aforementioned GSR, are still to be found. There's also still the lengthy and diverse Spanish wine list. La Paella also opens for lunch. Leslie started with the cod balls (and old standby) and had the snapper special that I can't specifically recall - it was served over prawns and cockles, I recall (thought she loved it). I started with shrimp with pureed red pepper chickpeas, which were terrif (even if I'm doubting my three-days-later ID of the dish). For a main, I had the duck confit special, served over mushroom rissotto, with spinach, and cranberry relish. All in all, as a diner and unabashed fan of Mecca, I was pleased and relieved to see the changes first hand. Same great food with some additions, different environment, and now I can even go for lunch.

Just picked up some yesterday from Cap'n Cliff on Route 7 in Redding CT. Not until this Fall did I realize that Cliff brought his Maine seafood van down to Fairfield County throughout the year. Hoo-Ha! Last night we had Chipotle Shrimp over Carolina Gold rice (something I always bring back when I visit home) pilaf. (Recipes from Rick Bayless via the WSJ weekend edition.) Great stuff - the technique for the rice (start sort of like rissotto and finish in the oven) may lead us to toss the rice cooker, which invariably undercooks. Have a half-pound of whole (lots of roe) shrimp left and guests coming for dinner (lamb shanks). Will the roe scare off the guests? FYI, Cap'n Cliff sells 'em for... $6.00/two pounds whole $6.99/one pound heads-off, shells-on $8.99/one pound headless, shellless

I know I am way overdue on this (and, of course, I can hardly remember what we ate), but... After (I believe) a three-year break, we resumed our tradition of annual Fall weekends in Portland. It was the weekend with the torrential rain (sigh). The two dinners were at Hugo's (greatly impressed with the place that is new to me) and Street & Co. It wouldn't be Portland without Street & Co., if you ask me. My only thought of any value is that it is interesting to have seen the changes (increased formality) at Street & Co. over the last ten years - maybe reflecting some changes in Portland, too?. Nonetheless, I find the place terrific and maybe even under-rated (I've always preferred it to Fore Street - though Fore Street certainly grew on me). Also, had a fun brunch at Duck Fat. Ate way too much and had quite a nice time. Frites, shakes, etc. Nice breakfast at Mim's, too - terrif omelets and eggs of every sort. Bottom line - I can't fathom folks who suggest that there isn't a load of terrific food in Portland. Could easily eat well for a week, without duplicating a restaurant. I go home every trip regretting where we didn't eat (but I'll always go in Street & Co. - as one who constantly plays Rotisserie (or, maybe in this case I should just say 'Fantasy,' to avoid any confusion) Restaurant, it is the restaurant that I would want mine to look like). Also brought home sausage, cheese, and fresh fish from the Portland Public Market. Hoo-hah!

Jaime is still the owner/chef. Unlike Jeff (ahem) I have been a devout Mecca diner (see multiple posts raving of Mecca). I have yet to try the new incarnation, but it has been suggested that this is an attempt to fit a little more into the up-and-coming restaurant vibe of the area. An attempt to blend in rather than differentiating. Very sorry to see the loss unique "one-pot" style dishes that set Mecca apart from the likes of (at one end) Meigas and (at the other end) the Barcelona chain. Nonetheless, will try to dine their sooner than later.

I love Ocracoke - though haven't been in ten years. We used to stay at the same inn (Captain's Inn?) and eat at the same restaurant each trip. In an old house. It was the only place that seemed like a real restaurant on the island. I loved it then but tastes change. Lovely setting. What was that place? Oy. Take a boat to Portsmouth Island for shelling - but lather up with sunscreen. The far side of Portsmouth Island, when you are walking by yourself, seems as secluded as the moon. Ah, the memories.

Another trip down to Greenville, and another dinner at 33 Liberty - this time with my sister and brother-in-law. I can't say enough about the fantastic food coming from John and Amy. The All American menu was featured for July. $35 for three courses - where else can you get that quality for this price? Could eat here five times for the price of French Laundry - and I've never been disappointed by anything here. But that's another story. Great pre-ap of blackeyed pea hummus on toast. Perfect use of the traditional Southern ingredient in a new and different way. While just one bite, it both sybolized what is so special about 33 Liberty and, in an odd way, was my favorite thing of the evening. Thankfully, we all ordered different things, so really got to bang through the menu. Wines were a Kiwi Sauv Blanc that I can no longer recall and a terrif 2003 Torii Mor Oregon Pinot noir. Appetizers: Me - South Carolina cantaloupe with country ham and cane vinegar. Lovely canteloupe, great flavor combo. I'd had as a pre-ap before, so was glad to get a full serving this time. Martha - Corn Bisque with Shrimp. Thin, brothy soup, with crunchy veg. Really bright, for soup. Loved it. John - I believe he had the baked cheese grits, but didn't share, so I don't completely recall. Post-Ap: BBQ Shrimp with Corn Pudding and a beer shot (was that Highlands, NC Gaelic Ale?). Nifty shrimp - right at the edge of too hot - hot, but not palate killing. Like ginger beer. Mains: Me - Blackened Catfish with black eyed peas and lemon butter. Loved the fish, loved the peas. It's the South - but the contemporary South. M - Meat Loaf with thyme and Vidalia onion gravy. Looked good, smelled good, but couldn't get my fork within range before it was gone. J - Roasted Chicken with garlic, parsley, thyme, and mac and cheese. Verged on a family squabble, as John suggested that it may be better than Martha's own herb roasted chicken. Desserts: J - Molten Chocolate Cake. Terrific - though, as much as I love the dish, I see it everywhere! Of course, maybe M&J don't, so I should be nice about it. M & Me - both got the Carolina Peach Crisp with Strawberry ice cream. Wonderful with everything from the orchard/garden fresh. On the surface, some of these may seem sort of regular - but keep in mind the July menu theme. The prep is amazing, flavor combinations are always a bit left of center. You can't ask for much more. In 30 years of either living in or visiting Greenville, plainly said, nowhere else has come close in quality or inspiration to 33 Liberty. Few other quick dining hits from the trip: Fine Mex lunch at Rosalinda's - per John's rec. BBQ at Brushy Creek in Powdersville - still the best in the area, IMHO. Also, picked up grits and cornmeal, milled that day, at Suber Mill in Greer. Great place to take the young'ns who think grits just come from a box at the grocery. Nice trip to Greenville Farmer's Market. I always stop there, but never before in peak season. Grabbed okra and blackberries, that I carefully carried on to my flight back to Connecticut. Okra was wonderful - stewed with tomatoes - and the blackberries were flavorful, even though they were HUGE. Some the size of ferrets. Ate 'em with peaches I mail-ordered from Frog Hollow Farm, as I just didn't think peaches could survive the trip back home.

Carole Peck's Good News Cafe in Woodbury has terrific New American style cusine. Lots of fresh, organic, and local ingredients. It's only about fifteen or twenty minutes past Danbury - about three miles north of I-84 at Exit 15 (Route 6) - so interstate access is easy. We've always enjoyed the food, which is rather unique for a restaurant in the Nutmeg State. While my main course orders vary, I tend to start with the pecan-crusted fresh oysters with cherry, jicama, and tomatillo salsa & chili aioli.

I thought there was a fairly complex use of herbs in the dishes we were served. To my palate, there seemed to be a deemphasis on spices. Just because I didn't get a lot of black pepper, salt, cardamom, etc., doesn't mean the dishes weren't complex - it simply means they were subtley complex. There was a pile of salt with my salad turnip, presumably, because it served in emphasizing the turnip. Otherwise, herbs served as a platform, enhancing the main ingredients. The use of more spices would have especially distracted from the freshness of the ingredients.

I've posted a review on the Blue Hill at Stone Barns thread here. While this is, technically, a New York (Westchester County) restaurant, I believe it would be of particular interest to Southern New Englanders. Wonderful cuisine - more New England than New York, to me. cg

Second dinner at BHSB for us, and I am ready to report! First was the Fergus Henderson event - fantastic as that was, I sense it was somewhat atypical for BHSB. Gorgeous grounds (oft repeated) so wear comfortable shoes and check out the Berkshire pigs and the chickens. (Note re earlier posts on this thread - anyone wearing shorts to a place like this really needs a lesson in good restaurant manners. While in a rural setting, the actual restaurant is classy, beautiful, and anything but casual.) Dan asked to cook for the table, so we were happy to go with it. I should add that this wasn't the simplest thing with our group of six, as two were vegetarians and one other had a broken jaw, necessitating pureed courses! Started with a variety of drinks for the table - cava, sangria, cocktails. (Dinner wines were a 2003 Ken Wright Pinot blanc and two bottles of 2003 Brick House WV Pinot noir.) Amuse - chilled pea soup shooters! Bright, fresh flavors - fantastic palate sharpeners. Amuse 2 - a fresh picked salad turnip with salt. Slightly sweet and very nice (for one who generally avoids turnips - though I like radishes). The chewing-challenged had fresh beet soup. Foie Gras - seered and coated with dark chocolate gratings. Foie gras, of course, is always good! Which made me think about the other thing that is always good (being an ex-pat Southerner) - fried food. Which made me think "how good would deep-fried foie gras be?" Sorta like clam bellies, I suppose. Note to self - gotta try that at home! Soup - green gaspacho. cuke, mint, green toms or tomatillos - not sure. Another nice palate brightener, after the foie gras. the Egg - Described elsewhere, it is flash fried and coated with panko and (me thinks) pistachio, served over micro greens (including baby mint) and cuke puree, with a lemon vin. Spectacular to have an egg so fresh. (the chew-challenged had a tapioca and avocado concoction.) Fish - sea trout with a light pea sauce (with fava beans and pistachios, in a mint and chive broth). Pasta - cavatelli with morel and fava sauce. Main courses - Poached chicken breast with chick peas, tiny asparagus, favas, onion. Lobster meat over curried carrots. Braised lamb shoulder croquette over farro. Pre-dessert - strawberry soup with a scoop of strawberry sorbet and mixed berries. Dessert - Basil souffle with pistachio sorbet. Coffee, chocolate covered cashews, the bill. We were also given a quick tour of the kitchen - having not toured many working kitchens up close, I was struck by the swiss watch precision and the army of chefs. I knew one guy wasn't doing it all - but you look and think there are almost too many people back there! Very busy, very precise. All in all, it was a fantastic meal. So many fresh flavors. But (to address an early comment on here) there is certainly no lack in technique - this is certainly the highest echelon of cooking. I enjoyed the preparation more than that of French Laundry, for instance. But the farm fresh ingredients make the food even more of a joy than it otherwise might have been. Nothing fell short and I'd be hard pressed to single one dish for special praise though, if I had to, and as much as I regret noting a dessert, I'd say that the basil souffle really rocked my world. The natural sweetness of the dish contrasted brilliantly with that minerally quality of basil. Anyone been up there for the Friday farm market?

It simply gets better and better! Michael (odds-on favorite in our house) made the shrewd move last night. Knew Elsie wouldn't be sacked as she was positioned as the sympathetic novice during the first episode. While Ralph remains a strong contender, bet on a Experienced Chef v. Novice finale of Michael v. Elsie. Chris was a jackass - good riddance, I say.

33 Liberty is top notch - and a world class bargain. Simple as that. I've also been hot and cold about Soby's, from prior visits. This time, the food was solid - not spectacular, but pretty darn good - and the service was terrific. A great waiter can make a huge difference in the quality of the evening. And the wine service was a nice plus.

It's hard for me to judge, being so far from the scene, most of the time. Back when, there were a couple of old fashioned, formal Southern restaurants like Porches, which topped out the scene. Nothing adventurous or creative, just serviceable and pretty good. Heck, when I grew up there (thirty years ago), Greenville didn't even have a decent BBQ. Around twenty years ago, places started opening downtown - but they were more "different" than good. And they'd open and close and open and close. Stax's Peppermill was probably a step in the right direction re fine dining, but still wasn't offering anything in the way of creative cuisine. What I love about 33 Liberty, and like about Soby's, is that they are the kind of restaurants that should help create a restaurant scene in Greenville - Southern, but not our grandmother's southern. There is also simply way more ethnic fare in Greenville than in the past. I'm sure the influx of population of Michelin and BMW employees have called for an upgrade in the diversity of cuisine. That said, when I'm back home in the South, I want to eat Southern food. I'm sure I'd think differently if I lived there year-round. But back when, for perspective, when my family wanted to go out for a special occasion, we'd go to Steak & Ale. And we surely weren't alone. A couple of oddball places gone by do pop into my head, now. The Old Mill Stream was a great fish camp over toward Greer - in the middle of nowhere, in its day. Far better than the big one (can't think of the name) on Haywood which is awful. As I recall, as the population moved that direction, they tried to move in the direction of being more of a suburban restaurant - and that was their downfall. R. Thomas was a blast while it was here (about twenty years ago) - but the funky vibe was simply more "gettable" when it up and moved to Atlanta. My sister lives in Spartanburg and says that they are a big step behind. She took me to an odd German cum multi-ethnic European restaurant over the weekend (name escapes me here, too). It was okay, but not special. When I think Sparkle City, I think The Beacon and Carolina BBQ. But I'm not the one to ask!

He did say "casual," after all. The King and I offers terrific Thai food at 545 Broadbridge Road in Bridgeport. It all depends on what you like, where you're coming from, and how much you want to spend. If coming from the southwest, Mansion Clam House is an easy off/on at Exit 17 in Westport. It is summery and serviceable food. One of the many Barcelona's might make for good pre-show tapas. But if a dog is more up one's alley, you can't do much better than Super Duper.

Family stuff took me back home to Greenville last week, where I distracted myself with dinners at 33 Libery and Soby's - my third or fourth dinners at both, but, I believe, this is the first that I'm writing up either. I'll preface by noting that having grown up in Greenville, I am certainly pleased with the improvements in the restaurant scene since I left the area fifteen years ago. The revitalization of downtown is also remarkable. While biased, I can certainly recommend Greenville as a nice weekend destination city. The Reedy River (Walking) Bridge is a stunning center to a vital Main Street, a hip West Main, the Peace Center, etc. Second notable meal first... Leslie left Greenville earlier in the trip, so I had to dine solo at 33 Liberty. While John and Amy Malik's fine restaurant has been often mentioned in these pages, I want to add my two cents. The Malik's are simply serving some of the finest contemporary Southern cuisine that can be found anywhere. Their unassuming restaurant is a genuine treasure that deserves any and all acclaim it receives, as well as a loyal following from the locals. My meal started with an amuse bouche of cantelope with cane vinegar sauce - a nifty bright bite that readied the palate for more. It was followed by corn and scallion muffins with sliced country ham and green tomato jam. Both comforting and bright, the dish with true to its roots while also transcending them. I had a glass of Trevor Jones Chard with the appetizer. I should add that the short but solid 33 Liberty wine list, includes some very good by-the-glass offerings. When you have a solid, interesting, wine list, you don't need a long one - if the interest is in serving appropriate (and good value) wines rather than trophy wines. And anyone especially noting Oregon offerings is after my heart. Corby Kummer has suggested that the winemakers of Oregon are America's garagistes - I think that is a very apt description - and as such, it reinforces how appropriate Oregon wine is with regional American cuisine - whether Northwestern, Southern, New England, or whatever. This was followed by a second appetizer - 33's smoked salmon with croutons and egg and caper salad. Top notch and a nice reminder of my current home. I opted for a main course of molasses marinated pork tenderloin with creamy grits, green beans, and mustard zinfandel sauce (and a glass of 03 Argyle PN). Indescribeably good. Pork was tender and perfect. Sauce was zippy but not obvious. Crunchy beans, the way I like them. Grits perfect for rumination. I was also brought a country ham popover that was like a cloud that was the essence of country ham. I wrapped-up my meal with the cheese place - roquefort and camembert, with peaches and honey, in lieu of dessert. I can't say enough about the cuisine at 33 Liberty. Having eaten at Highlands Bar & Grill, I think the food here as as good. And while I have long obsessed on the cooking of Jimmy Sneed (oh where, oh where can he be?), I think that John's cooking is right there. Service is also solid and the low-key, casually elegant atmosphere is wonderful - as 33 Liberty is filled with staff and patrons who are there simply for the joys of food. Finally, at $40 for three courses, $45 for four courses, and $50 for five courses, the price/quality ratio is hard to beat. Soby's is an interesting place. I have to say that this meal (with Leslie) was as good of one as I have had there. Also contemporary Southern, the food is a little more, well, obvious, than at a place like 33 Liberty. And the menu (and wine list) is longer (and the restaurant a whole lot bigger), but they are certainly doing a very good job in Downtown Greenville. The building is great - kind of reminds me of a two floor Fore Street (Portland, ME). I look forward to also trying Restaurant O - a Soby's spinoff at the Westin Poinsett. When I dropped into O for a business card (not immediately realizing the connection to Soby's), I was surprised (for Greenville) at the vibe that seemed like that of a restaurant at a W Hotel - I mean that neither as compliment or criticism, but simply as an observation. But back to Soby's... First thought on Soby's (and this would seem to be the subject for another thread elsewhere on eGullet), it is time to mull over the concept of revealingly dressed hostesses at fine dining establishments. While quite lovely, our hostess was all but pouring out of her little black dress. Now, usually, Leslie the foodie gal would be glaring at me when confronted by such a welcome - as if I did something wrong! But even she was impressed with the physique of the hostess, which was something akin to the aforementioned Reedy River Bridge - a tribute to self-sustaining structural engineering by which one can only be impressed. I'm not trying to be coarse - but while intriguing, it is a needless distraction in a fine restaurant, isn't it? If a hostess is being used as a "draw," is it really so bad of me to feel drawn? Ultimately, even the foodie gal could offer nothing but grudging admiration for our hostess's qualities, thankfully leaving me off the hook. But what's the point at a place like this? I was wondering if I was supposed to stick a tip somewhere. GREAT waiter at Soby's - wish I could tell you who. Especially as the next section seemed to be staffed by someone who would both sit at tables and rather loudly sing to himself when going back and forth to the kitchen. Big wine list at Soby's - full of trophy wines (which is kind of amazing in Greenville) but some interesting finds and some decent values. We opted for an 02 Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Chard - I believe $68, which would be a lot higher in other places. One special note of praise - the chard was brought to the table at an absolutely perfect temperature - an all to rare retaurant occurance, when you think about it. We poured, drank, and chilled the rest for fifteen, just because it was a bit of a warm evening. But (it's the little things in life, eh?) I was extremely pleased with that aspect of the wine service. Anyway, we both started with salads - Leslie opting for the mixed field greens with spiced pecan vineagrette and grape tomatoes, while I had the "caesar" salad with tobacco onions and Clemson (the alma mater) blue cheese. Pretty good - though the onions were a little much like onion strings from wherever. Leslie had a main course of seared sesame glazed yellowfin tuna with seaweed salad, which was very, very good. I had one of the evening's specials - roasted catfish stuffed with bacon and what was that cheese? I can't remember tasting the cheese. Served over rice with vegetables that have also escaped my memory - brocolini, I believe. Another very solid dish - not spectacular, but very good. We split a dessert of coconut creme pie with shortbread crust. I could eat coconut just about every day, so have nothing but positives about the dessert. (As an aside, while he is a dear fellow, Les's father loathes coconut - something that I clearly will never grasp). All in all, we were very pleased with the dinner. Great service at our table, great wine service, nice atmosphere, and eye candy. While the food might have been slightly pedestrian, it is a step up from my impression of prior meals there, and makes Soby's a very good downtown Greenville destination restaurant.