cabrales

Adam -- Lameloise would be my recommendation after Troisgros in/around the Lyon and Burgundy area, if romantic notions were not crucial. The food is at least as traditional as at Meneau, though, in sharp contrast to at Troisgros. As PaulaJ noted, at Lameloise there are *no* grounds. The building faces a town intersection of sorts, and the only tiny outside area is a little set of maybe two tables right in front of the house. The decor of the room I received at Lameloise was, like the restaurant's cuisine itself, somewhat traditional. That being said, the cuisine was good, particularly the pigeonneau cooked in a pig's bladder and served in two services (the first time I had seen offered a pigeonneau, instead of a chicken, in such a bladder). The chef has a more famed pigeonneau with truffled saucing. At Meneau, the cromesquis de foie gras were something I was eager to try -- they are little breaded deep fried cubes containing liquid foie gras. Apparently, the effect is achieved through a labor-intensive process involving the freezing of foie gras and other contents prior to deep frying. The idea was a good one, but for me, the execution was flawed (see prior quoted materials). I did notice that Meneau was attempting to introduce new dishes, with, in my assessment, little avail. I would return to Meneau's for lunch if I were in Burgundy, if only to sample the oysters in a gelee of seawater. If romantic considerations are key, there's a sweet story behind how Meneau became a cuisinier. He was trying to please his wife (the woman who assists with the service; she wears large-ish earrings, typically). Another possibility, for a romantic setting (if that is what Adam means by "special") is Pic -- cuisine that is not as good as at Lameloise, but more modern and more romantic). Patricia Wells recently wrote a review of Pic: http://www.patriciawells.com/reviews/iht/iht.htm The restaurant has a decently informative website. I could also provide a detailed write-up of my only meal there, if Adam is close to deciding for it.

Robert -- Thank you for your kind words The directionality of the admiration and appreciation should be, and is, from me to you and Susan. On the Moulin prices, I agree that they are not below three-star prices. I note, however, the number of dishes one gets, even if only the dishes mandated as part of the tasting menus are served, is a good number. I agree also that service is a weakness of the restaurant, but there could be many explanations for that. For example, lack of local talent within the small population in and around Lourmarin, including as a result of competition for talent with nearby Auberge de la Feniere (depending on how wide a geographic "draw" each restaurant has with respect to hiring). On the Moulin poicy of no menu degustations after 1:30 pm, perhaps that reflects the length of the degustation menu at Moulin (it is very significant -- the only times in recent memory that I have felt pressured about being able to eat everything served to me that I wanted to eat was at Moulin and at Veyrat's, ironically). I rarely get so full that my tummy begins to feel tight and I feel I cannot eat any more. That has happened at Loubet. In each of Loubet's tasting menus, there is an item called "La Pause Provençale Selon Édouard Loubet" (A Provence-style Pause According to Loubet). I remember looking at the menu the first time I went to the restaurant, and thinking that menu line was gimmick-like. Only after beginning the meal did I realize how necessary that (very short) pause was. While it would have been better if the restaurant had alerted you to the 1:30 policy, perhaps they only alert people who attempt to make reservations at or after 1:30 (?). I appreciate one can encounter unexpected traffic, as you and Susan did on a prior occasion around Aix, and that unanticipated developments can materialize. I merely note that, under normal circumstances and without knowledge specific to this point, I would have expected the restaurant to attempt to alert diners to the 1:30 timeframe only if they were making 1:30 or later reservations (or perhaps 1:00 reservations, if they were contemplating a cushion). On the reservations policies, there is the possibility, depending on the facts, that a late cancellation (even 20 days beforehand) would cause the hotel to have turned away some other potential guest in order to honor the reservation. In my case of a cancellation the day before the date of arrival, the hotel would have likely lost revenue because it would not have resold the room, but would have been obligated to honor the payment I provided against my next visit. I note another potential weakness of Moulin. When I am there in the summer, I sit outside in the open air. However, the main vaulted dining room did not appear to have strong air conditioning and was relatively poorly ventilated. Have members noticed adequate air conditioning in the main dining room at Moulin?

Varmint -- Apologies for my having no knowledge specific to the type of heirloom you reference. However, members have been documenting recent NY tomato menus in this thread: http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?ac...f3aac0acfea93db

Aberdeen was still there three months ago. Back to Gloucester: It is in the minority with respect to being an appealing HK-style cafe. For the very roughly C$12-18 entire meal I could have there (no alcoholic beverages), I'd rather stop by Lumiere Bar or Ouest Bar for a single dish and drink water (if I were limited to that amount).

On reservations policies, here is La Cote Saint-Jacques' (currently two-starred, although formerly three-starred): "More than 30 days we refund full prepayment **Between 29 and 20 days we refund you 80% of the prepayment** Between 19 and 10 days, we refund 40% of the prepayment Less than 10 days : nothing"

Despite the printed pricing policy, Loubet can be very generous, based on my experiences. For example, after discussions with him, he once gifted me 1/2 portions of all of the appetizers not included in my ordered tasting menu and an extra 1-2 entrees in appetizer size. Note I see nothing wrong with the explicit statements regarding pricing of dishes. Diners are better off knowing about what the restaurant might charge under different circumstances. Note I also happen to believe Loubet's cuisine is a good deal, relative to its tastiness. On the policy of not returning funds after a specified period of time, note that it is a generous policy because one gets to utilize the "forfeited" amounts towards a next visit. I have direct experience with this policy. Once, I cancelled the day before a room. The hotel likely would not have had the time to resell it. Nonetheless, I still received back the full amount, held by the hotel/restaurant, for application towards my next stay. That is generous if the hotel could not resell the room. Note also that, despite the written policy, if the hotel is able to resell the room and is full, a diner is free to argue for a refund, I would assume. The hotel/restaurant's frankness with respect to its policies is helpful, instead of distracting, to me. It is very up front about its room cancellation policy. If a guest is unhappy with that, the guest need not book a room there. The guest can stay at Auberge de la Feniere, whose reservations policy I do not care to learn about, or elsewhere in the region. Nobody is being forced to accept the cancellation policy of Moulin de Lourmarin. To indicate that it disproportionately affects non-European parties is something that could also be debated. It's similar to concerns about price inflation in certain respects. Nobody is forcing Americans, French or any other people to eat at two- or three-starred facilities. If a diner cares about prices, she should call the restaurant and ask, or otherwise investigate. Similarly, nobody is being forced to take a room at Moulin de Lourmarin. One takes the benefits of a room reservation together wth the potential downsides (including the reservations policy). In my mind, a diner s not entitled to reasonable prices or reasonable reservations policies. The prices and policies are what they are. If a given diner considers them unreasonable and others do not, the latter group dines or stays at the given facility. If most diners consider the prices excessive, the facility will bear the economic consequences of its own decisions.

Adam -- Depending on your special occasion, L'Esperance's grounds are indeed quite romantic and that could be cause for choosing it. There are statues of a stone woman holding her hat, more traditional female forms... creeks bordered by rows of trees, a little outside table area encircled by vines.... I visited last Christmas Eve, when the grounds were covered in snow and the creek was frozen. L'Esperance has some of the most beautiful grounds and most romantic (although not the nicest) rooms of the Burgundy destination restaurants. Some of the rooms are in the "moulin" -- the mill. They are quite romantic, although a 3-5 minute walk from the restaurant that is less attractive at night. There are two rooms (left and right of the mill entrance) on the ground floor of the mill. Each has a little day bed, in the general shape of a two-sided sleigh kind of shape, where one can lounge around before or after a meal. The room on the right is bedecked in white; the room on the left is in a red pattern of people and scenery. The L'Esperence restaurant itself is not particularly attractive -- a bit outdated, with unduly heavy reliance on green, white and gold color schemes. Note that certain rooms at Troisgros (I can look at my notes) are stylish and modern, although not as romantic necessarily as those at L'Esperance. However, the cuisine is much better. One of the higher-end rooms is a two-level unit, the upper floor of which is dominated by a very lengthy and large marble shower separated from the rest of the upper floor only by a pane of glass.

Robert -- While the service at Lourmarin sometimes leaves something to be desired, the dining room team appears earnest. I considered Loubet thoughtful and articulate, and not at all sullen. He appeared more willing to discuss cuisine at the end of services than before them, but generally to be welcoming and informed. Even appearance-wise, the chef would not be, in my assessment, unhappy-looking generally. http://www.fitzroyhotel.com/Lourmarin/restoMoulin.htm http://www.saveurs.sympatico.ca/relais/fra...sud/loubet3.htm

For me, R Blanc's cuisine was only good-plus. However, the Manoir is a fairly attractive visual venue. As an alternative to taking in the aperatifs at the bar, members visiting the restaurant could, in the summertime at least, sit outside. There are wooden little benches with backs, with little accompanying tables, where one can begin the evening as well.

With respect to ADNY, I would imagine the Essex House gave Ducasse a fairly good deal on the lease to enhance the prestige of the hotel. Note I have no confirmed information on this. It's likely Ducasse has similarly favorable arrangements at his other hotel restaurants.

Bapi -- Contrary to the early indications from the restaurant, the Menu of Reflection will run from August 20 through September 29, 2002. I'd appreciate input from members as to why the sole dish might be included in the menu.

Adam -- L'Esperance has beautiful grounds, and a very good dish utilizing oysters and seawater (fluid from the interior of the oyster). Below are observations based on a visit post-Meneau's demotion: Apart from the oysters in gelee dish, I did not find the other dishes taken at Meneau's to be particularly noteworthy.

Below are the expected contents of the Menu of Reflection (Pounds 76): Soupe de moules aux diamants de sole (Mussel soup with "diamonds" of sole) Escalope de foie gras au citrus (Escalope of foie gras with citrus) Tronçonnette de homard poêlée minute au Porto Blanc (Pan fried lobster medallion with a white port sauce and ginger flavoured vegetable julienne) Médaillon de veau voilé de parmesan, au parfum de sauge (Veal medallions with parmesan and sage) Tierce de fromages (Three cheeses) Soufflé chaud aux framboises (Raspberry soufflé)

Gavin -- I look forward to Yvonne's response to your question, but believe it is best to call one month in advance (morning -- they have some sort of time they generally begin taking calls, perhaps between 8:30 and 9:30 sometime, that we should collectively verify). Regardless of whether a private line is utilized (and I have not received a private number, but Jean-Claude can be reached most times slightly later in the day when the restaurant is open), my sense is that any "special treatment" with respect to reservations is difficult to count on, after that day, if (a) you are looking for a "normal" (non-10:15 or later) reservation time and/or (b) need to have certainty before the day of the intended meal (when reservations not confirmed might free up). I have dined there many times, and not gotten a private number. How have other members received a private number?

Along the same lines, elderflower is a component in Bill Yosses' "Elderflower Champagne Soup with Blood Orange Sorbet", a pre-dessert on Citarella Restaurant's tasting menu. http://www.citarella.com/Rest_Product.asp?...2&Department=17

I'd appreciate members' input on Ming Tsai's restaurant Blue Ginger, in Wellesley. Are the flavor combinations like those typical for non-authentic Chinese cuisine? http://www.ming.com/blueginger/blue_menu.htm

Rhea S: The cafes you describe vary greatly in quality. One that I think is acceptable is Cafe Gloucester, on Cambie (between King Edward and 12th St. somewhere) -- I believe that's the name. I consider the large pork chops with a tomato-based sauce (peas, carrots) and slightly gratined to be acceptable. One can order it with a rice-base or with spaghetti-style noodles. Also, the seafood gratin on rice is not poor. There are very reasonable "prix fixe" menus (that's not what they're called at the cafe). Another decent HK-style cafe is the one that overlooks the bowling center in Aberdeen Center, Richmond. It might be called Rhino, but I seriously doubt it. I think Gloucester is better.

anil -- There's a restaurant (non-tapas) called Olica. Members meeting friends at Oliva might want to be careful to make the Olica/Oliva distinction, just like Django/Chango. http://www.newyorkmetro.com/content/02/wk31/review.htm (Review of Olica)

Leslie -- Note it's understandable you may not have recalled discussions of Blue Hill. When the restaurant opened, the chefs were Dan and Alex Urena (the latter also from Bouley Bakery and not necessarily having connections with Daniel). Mike Anthony may not have joined BH by the end of the period in question (?).

Linked are indicative menus retrieved on the web regarding Moulin de Lourmarin. I have other menus that could be typed up, in the event they would make a difference to PaulaJ: http://www.fitzroyhotel.com/Lourmarin/menuMoulin.htm As illustrated by the menus, the herbs and other seasonings used by Loubet are unusual.

PaulaJ -- I'd like to supplement the reasons for not necessarily cancelling your Loubet reservation. Unless you are traveling to the South specifically for Loubet or unless you are willing to go North (e.g., to Roanne or Laguiole -- which is only 3 hours from Montpellier), the Loubet restaurant's appeal is enhanced by its competition in the South. There is three-starred Jardin des Sens in Montpellier; perhaps that might be worth sampling merely to make the evaluation in your own mind if you have not visited and if you like Gagnaire-like, complex cuisine. There is two-starred Clos de la Violette in Aix, which was closed when I attempted a visit and at which I have never eaten. There are places of particular interest historically like Ostau de la Baumaniere. There's Passedat in Nice. And more if you are willing to go to or beyond St Tropez/Cannes/Grasse. Then there's also bouillabaisse at a small place in Marseilles, which would be somewhat appealing to me subjectively. However, depending on how much further you are willing to travel, alternative restaurants in the South in the area of Lourmarin is, in my assessment, considerably less attractive than if one were near Paris, Lyons or Strasbourg.

The upstairs level of Lucas-Carton is for members of an association called "Le Cercle". Have members dined there (I have not)?

OSulliM78 -- To my knowledge, I'm not a member of any Waterside Club. I have never heard of such a club before.

I'd appreciate additional member input on Marseilles.

MartyL -- I don't have my notes with me, but one of the dishes I remember most about Loubet (it was summertime) was a truffe en croute with local summer truffles, in a corn-based sauce. I was in a truffe en croute phase following my sampling of the same (with black truffles) at Boyer, and the one at Loubet did not seem poor in comparison by any means. The Loubet truffle in a pastry shell was accompanied by a bouillon consisting largely of uncooked egg yolk, dotted copiously by summer flowers from the region. I sat outside in the area surrounding an old olive (?) tree, underneath vine-like canopies. The only negative about the environment was that there were scavenger cats, but they were not particularly nasty.