cabrales
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Posts posted by cabrales
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Liza -- Only Etats-Unis listed Tim Stark's tomatoes as such. For Blue Hill, Chef Anthony provided a discussion of his tomato supplier in the eGullet Q&A. For last night's dinner at Cafe Boulud, I asked a dining room team member to confirm with the kitchen. For the other restaurants (e.g., Marseilles, USC), there were other sources of information. The only recently sampled heirlooms I could not say for sure were Stark were those at Citarella.
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I eat bread with my hands, but endeavor to limit my hands touching anything else in a meal, when practicable. I sometimes have to twist wings off whole rotisserie chicken with my hands. Also, I sometimes will use my hands to bring the shell of an oyster to my mouth to take in the jus after having taken in the flesh of the oyster with the assistance of utensils. I guess some amuses and petits fours are intended to be taken using the hand.
For langoustines, larger prawns and shrimps, ecrevisses (crayfish), langouste, cigales de mer, lobster, all salads, etc., I use utensils. I don't like the smell of food lingering on my hands, particularly since I may not have a little vial of perfume with me with which to render them in acceptable condition again.
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Bain-Marie
http://www.metrokitchen.com/store/d-mart.a...&search=smrbain
(the equipment)
There is a dish called Bain-marie de crevettes grises et céleri-branche (Bain-marie of grey shrimp and celery) on the indicative menu found on the website of the Troisgros restaurant, Roanne
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Timbale (a mould utilized in French cuisine), after which savory plates (sometimes vegetable accompaniments) or desserts may be named on certain restaurant menus
The French dish Bresse poulet/poularde en vessie, or Bresse chicken cooked in a pig's bladder (Paul Bocuse made a version of this dish that I have yet to sample; Jacques Lameloise makes pigeonneau en vessie)
Possibly -- Dol Sot Bi Bim Bap, the Korean dish in which a stone pot houses Bi Bim Bap (I do not know whether "Dol Sot" in Korean means stone pot)
Analogous -- The Chinese dish fried rice wrapped in lotus leaves, which imbues the rice and accompanying ingredients with the aroma of the leaves in which it is cooked
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Baeckeoffe, in the Alsatian region of France
Cocotte, with respect to the French dish Oeufs en cocotte (eggs)
Winter melon soup in Chinese cuisine, involving the use of a hollowed out savory winter melon with remaining flesh as the container in which soup and diced meats (e.g., ham, chicken) and other vegetables are cooked
Analogous: Teppanyaki style of Japanese cooking, for the steel surface on which foods are cooked
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I would say that WI has its own commendable qualities -- a certain classicism and, when Michel Roux used to be chef-patron at least, relative consistency (not that certain other restaurants in/around London, such as Gordon Ramsay RHR, were not consistent). The desserts are generally rather strong, reflecting the patissier training of the Rouxs; the environment by the river is rather nice. The service is excellent. I wouldn't prefer more than two or three restaurants in/around London (GR RHR, La Tante Claire) to WI.
Note that, with Alain Roux as chef/patron, the cuisine style of WI might be in the process of changing. This is discussed in a thread on the UK board.
On French cuisine in Tokyo, I do not speak about it because I have no meaningful experience in which to ground my views. I'd have to say that, in spite of my lack of understanding in this regard, I'd find it difficult to imagine that French cuisine in Tokyo would, subjectively relative to my tastes, exceed the quality of the best French restaurants in France.
Finally, on simplicity, I agree that it's a trait that, when well implemented, can spur outstanding cuisine.
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i think the ryland inn does a great job with serving what they want. i think they do the best job with serving what they want. Because they have a safety net in the a la carte menu. There tasting menus range from not to exotic to preety darn exotic.
chop -- While I have not yet dined at Ryland Inn, as you noted, the restaurant appears to have a "traditional" tasting menu to fall back on as well (as opposed to the "gourmand" or "vegetarian" tasting menu).
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Beachfan -- Could you clarify which wines would be ruled out?
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pirate -- When you have a chance, could you consider discussing your perceptions (only if you would like to do so, to be clear)?
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Perhaps we should have a law about the amount of perfume or cologne somebody can wear. The overuse of some of that stuff has ruined plenty of meals for me.
Nina -- Have you encountered an equally depressing problem from diners at adjacent tables -- that of B.O.?
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On Bouland's link, note that a two-starred in Carantec that was likely zero stars only two years ago is participating (e.g., September 2002 visit). If the prices have not yet reflected Jeffroy's second star (only one star is mentioned on the cookfrance description), this would appear to be among the more attractive programs.
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circeplum --
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Also of note was the article's report regarding Ducasse:
"Sources say Ducasse and restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow - who are already partners in Spoon+ in London - will open a bistro tentatively called MIX at 68 W. 58th St."
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My next one will be about an olive oil from Nice that is made almost by hand and was used by Michel Troisgros.
Marc -- Could the oil happen to be...
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I hear indirectly P Wells' Paris, truffle, etc. courses are expensive. That prompted me to consider how they could be replicated less expensively, if a member wanted to do so. Below is an indicative class schedule from the "Cooking in Paris" class of October 22-26, 2001:
-- Monday: Preparation of Lunch --> Members can instead have three-starred Lucas-Carton or Grand-Vefour, taking advantage of their lunch prix fixes under 80 euros. This is likely less expensive than the allocable cost of the P Wells class. It is the case that wines are included in the classes.
-- Tuesday: Private tour of Alleosse Cheese Aging Caves; Lunch at Pre Catelan --> This can be mimicked very roughly by visiting two cheese stores and having lunch at Pre Catelan.
-- Wednesday: Oil Tasting with Expert Anne LeBlanc; Preparation of Lunch; La Maison du Chocolat's Chocolate Mousse and J-P Hevin's Chocolate Financiers --> This can be mimicked by going to O&Co to sample olive oil; having lunch at two-starred Jamin for less than 50 euros, and then visiting La Maison du Chocolat and J-P Hevin stores.
-- Thursday: Visit to Poilane Bakery; Private Wine Tasting; Visit to Rue Poncelet Market; Lunch at Pierre Gagnaire (P Wells knows him well, but the included lunch consists of only a four-veggie appetizer and a main course) --> This is slightly more difficult to mimic. However, one can buy bread from Poilane Bakery; go to a wine bar; go to the Rue Poncelet market; and purchase a grander version of the P Gagnaire meal.
-- Friday: Chocolate Tasting with expert Chloe Doutre-Roussel; Preparation of Lunch --> This can be replicated in part by going to Pierre Herme's Rue Bonaparte shop or going to the shop in Paris that carries Bernachon and other rare chocolates. Then, instead of paying P Wells, one can purchase lunch at L'Astrance or Flora.
I appreciate P Wells provides a great deal more (including commentary, etc.) that would not be available under the cheaper ways to experience some of her Paris classes. However, the cost savings might be substantial and one might get to sample more restaurants' food.
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I'd appreciate some input on what type of single bottle (or 1/2 bottle), leaving aside the cheese plate, would go well with the below menu soon to be taken in at Waterside Inn, UK. The restaurant's wine list is fairly large selection-wise, but expensive. White burgundies in particular would be of interest.
A related, but separate, question is what type of wine would enhance the lobster with a white port sauce.
Below are the expected contents of the Menu of Reflection (Pounds 76):Soupe de moules aux diamants de sole (Mussel soup with "diamonds" of sole)
Escalope de foie gras au citrus (Escalope of foie gras with citrus)
Tronçonnette de homard poêlée minute au Porto Blanc (Pan fried lobster medallion with a white port sauce and ginger flavoured vegetable julienne)
Médaillon de veau voilé de parmesan, au parfum de sauge (Veal medallions with parmesan and sage)
Tierce de fromages (Three cheeses)
Soufflé chaud aux framboises (Raspberry soufflé)
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Matthew --- Your 100th post
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Simon -- Was there a bit of fat in the steak to be sampled?
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I don't mean to say Urena had inappropriate reactions. I note that his actons are amenable to several different interpretations, but others might be more familiar with which one might be more in keeping with the applicable facts. I had never before seen Urena, and doubt I will ever see him again at Marseilles as I do not plan a return. Note that the normal price for a tasting menu at Marseilles is $65; that reinforces the unlikelihood of my return, relative to alternatives uses of those funds.
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Sea urchin at Nobu does not quite comport with this thread's title regarding non-Japanese restaurants. However, I did have uni tempura at Nobu, NY, recently. It was my visiting family members' turn to pick a restaurant for dinner, after I had selected a meal at Blue Hill. One of my family members used to like to go to Nobu, and noted that dinner prices have declined by approx. 10-20% since she last visited. I have no ability to verify that.
The uni tempura is priced at between $5-10, and one order represents one fair-sized piece of uni wrapped in a shiso (or other mint) leaf. The resulting bundle was deep-fried like other tempura items, and served with a piece of okra, also deep-fried. While this was an unusual preparation for uni, I'd have to admit that I did not find the sampling of the urchin aided in this dish.
Separately, from a meal a while ago, sea urchin veloute at ADNY had also been sampled. A warm temperature to the veloute, and the pouring of it over sea urchin sections at the table. Not poor.
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No, chefs have no affirmative obligation to debrief. However, a diner is also entitled to feel disappointment even if there is no such obligation, when a chef comes to the table and seeks no more than a "de rigeur" showing of having come to the table (one interpretation, although an alternative interpretation would have been shyness and/or inarticulateness).
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Cabrales, thanks for answering my question about the difference between the inclusion of citrus here and elsewhere in the tomato salad.
Yes, it's telling how the same key ingredients of Tim Stark's heirloom tomatoes and citrus produced rather different results.
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I vaguely remember an Iron Chef episode when the challenger (a woman) was touted for offering "royal" Thai cuisine which she had prepared for certain esteemed Thai personnel. I wonder what the difference between "royal" Thai cuisine and other Thai cuisine might be.
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Nina -- How can you tell?
Eating Food That's Still Alive
in Food Traditions & Culture
Posted
Chang-Rae Lee mentions live octupus sampled by other diners in Seoul during the summer of 1980, in his article "Sea Urchin" in the New Yorker Food Issue:
"A young couple sitting at the end of the bar oder live octupus. The old woman nods and hooks one in the tank. It's fairly small, the size of a hand. She lays it on a board and quickly slices off the head with her cleaver. She chops the tentacles and gathers them up onto a plate, dressing them with sesame oil and a spicy bean sauce. 'You have to be careful,' my father whispers, 'or one of the suction cups can stick inside your throat. You could die.' The lovers blithely feed each other the sectioned tentacles, taking sips of soju in between."