cabrales

Lady T -- Thanks for your input. I agree that the Haut Brion Blanc is tempting. Having received an update that four of six diners might be drinking, I include two indicative sets of choices below. Members' input would be appreciated. A. More reasonably priced-- Less than $150/person (before taxes and tipping associated with wine price) (1) Mumm de Cramant Brut NV $75: I agree with Lady T that V-C 1995 would be better; however, Mumm de Cramant is different from "regular" Mumm and is a Blanc de Blanc (my favorite broad category of champagne). $75 also represents a reasonable price, as the bottle is priced at over $45 at Garnet, NY. (2) Meursault-Charmes Domaine des Comtes Lafon 1998 $215: I wonder if this is a good time to drink this bottle. However, I have liked many older vintages of this wine. Members' input would be appreciated. (3) Gevrey-Chambertin "Clos St. Jacques" Jadot 1995 $175: I am uncertain about this maker as a provider of G-C, and would choose Mortet in G-C if price were not a consideration. However, this bottle could be a good compromise. (4) Inniskillin "Oak Aged" Vidal, Niagara Peninsula 1998 (Half Bottle) $125: The pricing reflects a considerable mark-up, as recent Inniskillins sell for around $50-60 for a full bottle retail in NY and for less than US$30 a bottle in certain Canadian regions. B. For double the price-plus, at less than $350/person: Salon "Le Mesnil" Blanc de Blancs Brut 1988 $310 Pessac-Leognan Chateau Haut Brion 1992 (Blanc) $300 Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 1988 $375 (yes, I like Haut Brion and applicable secondary lines) Chateau d'Yquem Premier Grand Cru 1988 (Half Bottle) $365 (This or a similar d'Yquem could be had less expensively by purchasing retail and BYO, even with the $80 corkage)

awbrig and others -- I'd appreciate comments on CT's wine list, for, say, a group of six people at the kitchen table. Bottles with a relatively low percentage mark-up would be particular interest. http://www.charlietrotters.com/cuisine/win...st.asp?typeID=1 (wine list) The following is a possible set of choices, with alternatives listed in declining order of preference. If the choices placed between asterisks were adopted, the wine cost would be a very reasonable $150 per person. Members' comments would be appreciated. --Champagne: **Mumm de Cramant Brut NV $75** or Henriot "Blanc de Blancs" Brut NV $74 --White #1: Chassagne-Montrachet Domaine Ramonet 1981 $300 or Meursault-Charmes Domaine des Comtes Lafon 1998 $215 or **Chassagne-Montrachet "Les Vergers" Fontaine-Gagnard 1997 $117** or Pouilly-Fume "Pur Sang" Dagueneau 1999 $88 -- White #2: **Pessac-Leognan Chateau Haut Brion 1992 $300** or Pessac-Leognan Chateau Carbonnieux 1999 $75 -- **Gevrey-Chambertin "Lavaux St. Jacques" Mortet 1997 (Magnum) $270 ** -- Dessert Wine: Chateau d'Yquem Premier Grand Cru 1988 (Half Bottle) $365 or ** Veuve Clicquot "Vintage Reserve" Brut Champagne 1995 $115**

...and somewhere, cabrales smiled. Miss J -- Malawry -- Thanks for describing the ortolan information. When you have a chance, please discuss whether written materials were handed out, by any chance, on ortolans, and whether you received other information on their diet (e.g., type of berries they consume, whether the acidity of their digestive tracts might be interesting when the birdies are sampled). Also, I wonder whether the applicable diet changes during migration periods. Finally, were any indications provided as to where (including in the US) an ortolan could be taken in?

I had dinner at Gordon Ramsay -- Claridge's recently with another eGulleteer. While the discussion during the meal was much appreciated, the cuisine offered was at best average. I would say my assessment might have been affected by my prior meals at Claridge's, which were better (although clearly at most at the one-star level and a marked step down from RHR). However, if this meal at Claridge's is indicative, Claridge's may have experienced a decline in cuisine even relative to its prior levels. Of course, one meal is not much information to go on. I welcome other members' input. Dinner began at 9:45, although there were a number of tables at roughly the same pace as ours and we did not feel pressed with respect to any course. We ordered the regular £50 prix fixe instead of the £60 tasting menu. Below were the items taken in (items ordered by the other eGulleteer placed in square brackets): (1) Amuse of pea soup with mint. Well, this was more appropriate for the season than pumpkin soup or Bresse chicken bouillon. The pea soup was an appropriately medium consistency, and was nice. Perhaps there was slightly too much mint for my taste, but the little bit of goat cheese atop the soup was appropriate. Ruinart Rose champagne (perhaps £12.50/glass?) was taken in with the amuse. It appears that Ruinart, whether R de Ruinart, rose or blanc de blancs, is more frequently available by the glass in the UK than in New York. The other champagnes available by the glass at Claridge's were Dom Perignon (the last time I dined it was 1993) and Roederer (non-Kristal; spelling). (2) Not official name: Terrine of ham hock with Bresse poulet and gelee; accompaniment of orange-colored pickled non-hot-pepper item that I was not familiar with. [Panache of sauteed sea scallops on a bed of cauliflower puree and sherry caramel]. The ham hock/chicken white meat/relatively bland gelee terrine was appropriate, although it would have been less than that had the gentle pickles not been included in the dish. It was served with a little salad that was as dull as could be. Overall, average. With this dish was ordered a reasonably priced, less known white Bordeaux (£5/glass). The by-the-glass selection of whites was average-minus for a restaurant at this level, although I have seen better included wines at the restaurant. (3) Pot-roasted belly of pork with aubergine caviar, baby spinach and lightly creamed onions and bacon. [braised ox cheek, infused with spices, served with its own consomme and horseradish pomme puree]. My pork belly was at best average. My dining companion and I both thought the flesh was a bit dry, and I found the five spice powder sensations too pronounced and the saucing unduly stark. The bacon-based saucing lacked the fatty and pork connotations I would have liked from bacon, and contained no bacon bits or sentiments of bacon fattiness. Furthermore, the temperature of the dish was slightly colder than I would have subjectively preferred. The aubergine caviar was appropriate, and an average match with the pork belly. The table shared a 1/2 bottle of 1997 Chateauneuf du Pape, Beaucastel (£32-37?). (4) Pre-dessert of white peach veloute with yoghurt; piece of dyed dried star fruit. This was my first encounter at any GR establishment with this pre-dessert. Like the pineapple granite and some other pre-dessert I have had at GR RHR, this was served in a shotglass. Its texture was a bit heavier (in a good way, in my mind), given the gentleness of the white peach flavors and that fruit's fragrance. Also nice was the dried cross-section of star-fruit, dyed a burgundy/pink -- possibly from raspberry jus (?), as my dining companion and I both detected a hint of berry tastes in the aftertaste to the appropriately thin dried star fruit. (5) Assorted ice creams and sorbets (in my case, two mini scoops of milk ice cream and some banana-passion fruit sorbet). The pastry chef decided to ignore my request for white chocolate ice cream, because the kitchen had apparently run out. The milk ice cream that I had sampled for the first time at RHR was not as well-executed here (could it be -- even ice cream?!). The banana-passion fruit sorbet might have had aftertastes bringing to mind guava or pear, but my dining companion accurately pointed out that sometimes certain bananas could provoke that. There was nice thin pieces of dried fruit adorning each of the six scoops of sorbet. The dried fruit included two types of apples, the dyed star fruit, pineapple and something else. However, no effort had been made to match the dried fruit to the particular sorbet. For example, milk sorbet should not have had a dried pineapple bit placed onto it. Overall, the dessert was not poor, arguably. Coffee and petit fours are £5/person. I do not know whether one would receive petit fours if coffee were not ordered at all at a table; I wonder whether this is a newly instituted practice (?). Only the white chocolate ball with strawberry ice cream inside and dark chocolates were included. No macarons, and no cone with passion fruit piped in. The sommelier service was professional. The dining room team was weaker on this night than for prior meals at Claridge's. For example, one of the appetizers available is "Veloute of new season white onions with sauteed cepes, baby artichokes and grated fresh truffles". I asked an individual who seemed to be at least a chef de rang (and likely more than that) what types of truffles were utilized, and he answered confidently (!) black truffles from the Perigord. I asked him if he was sure, mentioning to him that it seemed rather early for black truffles from the Perigord to be available. After several assurances, I adhered to my original question and the individual went to check with the kitchen. I had to tell him I had had certain truffle questions at Petrus that provided founded before he began to show receptiveness to checking. Of course, these were not Perigord black truffles, but the response was that there were summer truffles. A lack of professionalism on the part of this dining room team member, I have to say. If he wasn't sure, he shouldn't have sounded so confident. If he was so confident without full information, he was not particularly responsible. Another dining room team member who may have been junior to the above-described individual provided good service; hence, perhaps some service inconsistency issues (not including with respect to sommelier assistance).

Andy -- I hope my report doesn't discourage members who would otherwise be interested in sampling the Menu of Reflection from doing so. The meal had no impact on my view of three-star restaurants because I had already come to the conclusion long ago, with all respect, that few of even the three-stars offer cuisine that is subjectively compelling to me. Note also that I apply much higher standards in Europe than I do in the US, and perhaps my posts with respect to restaurants in different geographic locations should be read with that in mind. I have always found Gordon Ramsay RHR to be the preferred restaurant, for me, in the UK, and that has not changed. With respect to the WI a la carte menu, I noticed certain Alain Roux concoctions, although traditional favorites such as the rabbit with candied chestnuts were retained.

I sampled Michel Roux's Menu of Reflection recently, as prepared by Alain Roux and his kitchen team. I am saddened to report that, subjectively, the meal was moderately disappointing. The menu of reflection is described as follows: "These dishes featured here have appeared on our menus over the last 30 years. We are recreating them for this summer menu in celebration of the 30th anniversary of the Waterside Inn. This menu must be taken by the whole party." The service remained very good, with good recollection on the part of certain dining room team members of certain dishes I had previously sampled and good sommelier advice. However, even understanding that Waterside Inn was never one of my favorite restaurants (although I liked it somewhat), my meal may have been the least appealing I remember having had there. The price of the Menu of Reflection was that of the Menu Exceptionel, £76 before a 12.5% service charge. (1) Amuses -- I enjoyed sitting outside the terrace beside the Thames. This time around, I was sitting at level 2 (with the first being the little tables right at the level of the river, the boat docking area and one of the little yellow-colored "huts" for aperatifs and digestifs; the second being at the level of the seats right next to the large, yawning tree framing the restaurant). The amuses were: (a) rillettes on a thin "traditional" toast with a little roasted cornnut-like nut (it was not cornnut) sitting on top of this item -- this was nice; (b) a small red cherry tomato partially hollowed out and housing strands of celeriac, which in turn had a mustard and light, light-cream-like based saucing; © a section of sardine flesh atop a piece of thicker Italian-style toast (not bruscetta), with the toast infused with flavored olive oil (not dissimilar to certain flavors in pesto); and (d) thin pastry-like thin crisp, with three green olive rings embedded along the middle section of the crisp. I liked the tiny tomato, and the amuses overall were average. I had the amuses with Ruinart Blanc de Blanc champagne, which is frequently available at WI by the glass (at less than £15/glass). (2) Soupe de moules aux diamants de sole; Mussel soup garnished with dimaonds of sole. This soup was fairly good, although it was nothing innovative. Three or four very plump mussels were included in a broth that to me hinted at a crustacean base and that was akin to a bisque. The broth contained mussels and fish stock, and was nice, but not particularly different in general character from, say, the better lobster bisques. The little diamond-shaped bits of sole included in the soup were appropriate, as were the small juliennes of softened carrots. Surprisingly, the soup also contained small juliennes of an egg omelette/crepe that had herbs folded into it. Strangely (in a good way), the little strands of egg had an elasticity to them that I do not generally associate with this type of preparation. Thyme was the dominant flavor-providing ingredient in this soup, and that was not inappropriate. I chose a Corton Charlemagne, Bonneau de Martray 1995 (1/2 bottle; £100-105) for most of the dishes in the Menu of Reflection. This wine ages very different in a half bottle than in a bottle or magnum. This is only the second place I have ever noticed Bonneau de Martray Corton Charlemagne available in 1/2 bottles (the first being on Jacques Thorel's wine list at La Roche Bernard, a restaurant which I have yet to eat at). (3) Escalope de foie gras au citrus; Warm escalope of foie gras with citrus sauce. This was below average, potentially bordering on poor. I have had foie gras several times at WI, and at least 50% of the time I have detected a hint of bitterness and a bit too much "veining" still remaining in the foie gras specimen. Today was no exception, and I took in no more than 1/3 of the portion served. The grapfruit and orange (or mandarin?) segments were placed next to candied orange peel, but the foie gras itself was not to my liking, even before the saucing was taken into account. I have to say that the saucing would not have been to my liking either, being a bit stark and offering an unappealing melding of the sweetness of the candying with the acidity of the citrus fruit. Also, the jus-based saucing for the foie gras contained little citrus and did not seem to meld well with the fruit segments themselves. I ordered a glass of Gewurtztraminer, Fronzel 2000, with this dish. (4) Tronconnette de homard poelee minute au Porto Blanc; Pan fried lobster medallion with a white port sauce and ginger flavoured vegetable julienne. This is a dish I have enjoyed in the past, both ordered a la carte and as part of a "Menu Exceptionel" tasting menu. However, here, the portion size was noticeably smaller than that even in the Menu Exceptionel. There were two pieces of flesh -- one from a claw and the other a section of the lobster's body. The serving temperature was slightly lower than that I had previously experienced, and the dish overall was less appealing. Among other things, the ginger aspect of the strands of vegetables became more pronounced because of the smaller relative amount of lobster, and the ginger was somewhat too strong in this dish. In addition, the saucing had a hint of bitterness that I had not detected on prior encounters (?). (5) Medallion de veau voile de parmesan, au parfum de sauge; Veal medallion glazed with parmesan and sage, served with a gateau of ratatouille, white wine and sage sauce. This dish was disappointing. Cooked rose, the veal was simply run-of-the-mill. When I took in the aromas of the dish, I am sad to report that what was brought to mind were certain veal dishes included in airplane meals. The veal was a small piece, but fairly thick. On top of the veal was a layer of softened white breadcrumbs, emoliated by melted mutter, mixed with parmesan and some sage. The jus was a mediocre jus-based reduction. Bordering on poor for a three-star. Included in the dish was a "tart" that consisted of a sandwich of diced vegetables (different peppers, zucchini, onion) between pieces of roasted aubergines. The tart had significant "Mediterranean" connotations to me, for some reason, and reminded me of one of the reasons I dislike Ducasse's cuisine at Plaza Athenee and elsewhere. I ate perhaps 1/2 of the portion of veal served to me. (6) Tierce de Fromages; Our selection of three unpasteurised farm cheeses. The cheese were average, with a Reblechon, a goat's cheese and some cheese from Champagne. I sampled very little of the cheese platter, which which one is typically offered olive or walnut bread and celery stalks. (7) Souffle chaud aux framboises; Warm raspberry souffle. Despite the Rouxs' strength in desserts, it was somewhat sad that this was, for me, the best dish of the meal. This was likely included in the Menu of Reflection because it was served to the Queen and one other royal guest several years ago on her birthday (an off-site event described in Michel Roux's autobiography, Life Is A Menu). I have sampled probably two souffles at WI previously, including a decent mirabelles (yellow plum souffle). The souffle was soft and airy, fragrant with raspberry sensations that were not too artifically-tasting and not too concentrated. The top of the souffle had a wonderful quality of being partially egg-based, partially flour-based. It was nicely sweet without being too sweet. A dining room team member pierced the top of the souffle slightly to add some burgundy-colored raspberry syrup. On top of the souffle sat three plump raspberries and a sprig of mint. The surprising aspect of the souffle, for me, was the inclusion of a macaron (likely not raspberry flavored) half-way inside the souffle! This gave a brief taste of flour-based textures amidst the fluffiness of the souffle that was appealing. Note that the mirabelle souffle at WI does not ordinarily have this macaron. Interestingly, I have been surprised by ingredients lodged deep within souffles at WI before. On some prior visit, I had sampled a haddock savory souffle that had an intact, runny-interior egg (likely gulls') lodged inside, in addition to a quail egg on top. Coffee (Mocha or Columbia) was included. Miscellaneous -- The train ride to WI from Paddington is straight-forward, as previously described. The applicable destination station is Maidenhead, and the round trip this time cost £7. Taxis to/from the train station and WI amounted to approximately £5-7 each way. In case members do not know, WI is closer to Heathrow than central London is. (However, the Heathrow Express train accesses central London in a more efficient way.) Matthew -- If you are comfortable discussing it, why did you change your Avatar from the "dejected" clown?

Del Burgo has at least one other child, possibly. In a 2002 Thuliers (spelling) magazine article, which had a chronology of his work and included photos significant to Del Burgo, he is shown with at least two children, I vaguely recall (???).

jaybee -- Please see the thread below, which discusses the "cuisine a l'eau": http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...6051&hl=loraine On business levels, I have only eaten at Loiseau once since 9/11, and that was during a holiday period. It is difficult to gauge how busy the restaurant is because there are a number of dining rooms that can be utilized (not including, even, the breakfast room aka A Dumaine room). During 2Q 2001 (pre-9/11), the "main" dining room was full for the dinner and lunch I took in there. During 4Q 2001 (lunch on December 24 or 23), there were very few people. I have not been back since. Note Loiseau's restaurant is owned by a publicly traded company. One could presumably pursue disclosed information, if one were so inclined.

Chef Harris -- I'd appreciate your views on the respective cuisines of Gordon Ramsay (please mention the applicable restaurant if your assessment differs across establishments), Bruce Poole and Putney Bridge's Anthony Demetre.

Chef Harris -- If you recall, please consider discussing some of the dishes you sampled at L'Ami Louis. For example, have you taken in the restaurant's roast chicken -- a large, magestic bird presented in two services? (I have not)

Patrice -- Do you have any news on why Del Burgo is moving? Is it voluntary, given that Bastide would be a significant step-down (although I have not dined there) and used to be run at one point by one of Del Burgo's disciples, Thierry Château? By the way, do members have insight into why Del Burgo had been selected by Vrinat in the first place? There was a piece in Thuleries (spelling) on Del Burgo sometime in 2002 which provided some background on the chef. Speaking of chef movements, Ghislaine Arabian has been dismissed from her namesake restaurant (yes, this is at least her second instance at having been terminated). Bonjour Paris, a website with good information on Paris culinary goings-on, reports: http://www.bparis.com/newsletter1464/newsl...m?doc_id=110269

JJS -- I agree that Boyer is worth visiting, despite his inclination to tour the room/outdoor aperatif area (as applicable) instead of being in the kitchen. Thierry Voisin is more than able with respect to cuisine. Elaine (spelling likely different) Boyer also tours the room at times. The truffe en croute is marvellous, but I have always wondered how Boyer sources French black truffles before the applicable season later in the year. I suspect he must freeze and/or vacuum pack. The item was approx $100 (it is now likely 97.50 euros) for a whole truffle, and, in my mind, is worth it. If budget were relevant to you, note a half-order (without the whole truffle inside, but a large enough chunk) would likely be 1/2 price. When the ball of pastry is cut into, consider placing your nose very close to the item to take in the whiff of intensified truffle-ness. Here is Charlie Trotter's description of the dish: http://metromix.com/top/1,1419,M-Metromix-...il-5567,00.html Below are comments on some of the items from the below linked indicative menu I have sampled. Do not hesitate to ask about 1/2 portions of dishes, as they are often available with respect to a la carte ordering (at 1/2 the price). Dishes listed in declining order of subjective preference. Note I have not yet sampled the Pere Maurice salad. Un homard en carapace, cuisiné en cocotte fonte, aux trompettes -- Boyer's lobster dishes are wonderful. They usually contain more butter than one might imagine, but they are luscious. I have sampled this precise dish, now on the indicative menu, and it was worthwhile. Note that, when Boyer, Bocuse, R Verge and Ducasse were asked to cook a special meal at Le Cirque (prior to ADNY's creation), Boyer prepared a lobster dish (not necessarily this one). Interestingly, Michelin does not include a lobster dish in its list of dishes for Les Crayeres. Le saumon fumé à la minute, pommes de terre en robe des champs, Crème de caviar, petite salade au cumin (Limited-cooked smoked salmon, potatoes, caviar creme, small salad of cumin) -- This dish was very delicate. La volaille de Bresse en demi-deuil, riz basmati au foie gras et aux truffes noires -- Not a lot of truffles, but tender, well-prepared chicken and a nice cream-based sauce (the use of cream being similar to Pacuad's version and being in contrast with the original Mere Brazier version -- there is an old thread on the France board on this "chicken in half mourning" dish, which is a dish I always order when available, based on my subjective preferences). Un pigeonneau rôti sur sa carcasse, son jus relevé -- Pigeonneau is fairly good, but not as good as at least two of the preparations at Lameloise. Note that is not a criticism of pigeonneau at Boyer, but praise for that at Lameloise. La palette de 5 foies gras d'oie -- If I remember correctly, most and possibly all of the preparations were cold/room-temperature. While not bad, I would not re-order this dish. Note I like goose foie gras (included), but also like duck foie gras. Desserts -- These are generally not at the level of the savory dishes at Boyer, in my assessment. Boyer has at least one prix fixe menu daily that is a good deal relative to a la carte prices, as of 2001 at least. Consider checking that. I forget, but there might even have been champagne by the glass pairings (highly uncertain, as I don't have notes with me). Perhaps Paula could confirm these vague recollections. http://miseajour.apicius.com/boyer/uk/carte.asp (indicative carte that does not describe prix fixe menu) Also note, if you are visiting the nearby Pommery caves, at least residents of the hotel can have Boyer personnel call and provide a "card" for a free visit. (Pommery normally charges a nominal fee). Note that Pommery caves are not for any members (without any connotations as to JJS, to be clear) who cannot walk UP roughly 30-40 steps. There is no elevator that guests can take. Nonetheless, there are beautiful carvings on some of the walls of caves, including of the young woman (some Pommery relative) who is depicted on the label of the premium Louise label.

canadian-eh -- Below is a thread mentioning a few restaurants that may be of interest to you http://forums.egullet.org/ibf/index.php?s=...=5889&hl=tofino

Below are photos of the cuy dish. Thanks to Steven for scanning the photos and lodging them on his website. Note the elongated body of the cuy, and the "intact" nature of its head. The dish in the background is cooked ceviche. Depiction of teeth. Other photos that may be of interest to NY members: Cello closing notices. Wilfrid's balut at Elvie's Turo Turo (the subject of another thread in this forum). My then unopened duck egg is to the right, with a little medium blue stamp indicating "Treat" on the shell. My balut, with the shell removed. Note the "veining" effects. The interior of my balut. Note the distinct areas representing the yolk, the white and the embedded duck flesh. 'Ino's truffled egg tast (the subject of another thread in this forum)

At one-starred Helene Darroze (spelling might be Darozze or Darrozze) in Paris, there is from time to time an appetizer comparing room-temperature goose and duck foie gras, side by side. Given Darroze's family connections in southern France, Darroze is a fair place to presumably sample foie gras. I have not yet taken in this dish. If members are not interested in taking in a meal in the gastronomic restaurant upstairs, they could inquire whether this dish (if available) can be served in the tapas area on the ground level of the restaurant. Note Darroze has some interesting game items available, also because of her family connections. At different times, I have seen palombe, a pigeon-like item from the south, and chapon from that region on her menus.

It's my third post today again, but I'd like to add that drrevenue is a valuable member who is indeed leaving on the described trip and who has many things to contribute (should he feel so inclined). I'm sorry he experienced what he did, and hope the situation will be quickly resolved.

nesita -- The restaurant only offers American cheese, in general. When I asked about this practice, the chef advised me that he wanted to support US produce. The Taster portion ($15) contained about 5 types, with selection by the restaurant. I'm sure that, if you were interested in choosing yourself, the restaurant would be happy to discuss the included cheese with you. The restaurant asked us whether we had a preference, and I mentioned I liked blues. This was reflected in the resulting selection. I considered the cheese to be interesting (in a good way). The $29 "Share" portion would contain 9-10 cheese types, roughly. We ordered a late harvest muscat to accompany the cheese. The "condiments" for the cheese were nice, particularly the blueberries in a light berry syrup.

Below are subjective thoughts: (1) It appears that the maitre d' and dining room team member in question were responsible professionals. As such, they would have updated the chef/owner on your dissatisfaction. However, the absence of contact from the chef prior to your messaging him may not be dispositive of his not feeling sorry or wanting to "make things right". Perhaps he intended to prepare a special meal or comp you the next time you visited the restaurant, thinking that you would revisit. Thus, if I were in drrevenue's shoes, I would consider the absence of proactive contact from the chef to be a negative factor, but not a heavily-weighted one. (2) Sometimes the written language is an imperfect mode of communications. Some chefs are less articulate than others. Perhaps the chef meant "I am disappointed at the restaurant for your response". Or perhaps, as clear from the actual words used by the chef, he intended to convey disappointment in you as clients. One route not yet explored would be to call the maitre d' and seek additional information. Perhaps, if drrevenue wanted to convey his unhappiness to the chef, he could do so through the maitre d'. Even if drrevenue did not want to visit the restaurant again in the foreseeable future, he could gather information that would assist him in reaching closure on this episode. Even when a diner can contact a chef directly with comfort, the maitre d' can provide perspective and assist a diner considerably. Why not tap the history of interactions with the maitre d'? (3) Whether boycotting a restaurant is the best route is for drrevenue to subjectively decide. While I appreciate his considerable experience dining at the best establishments in France, the US and elsewhere, there must have been some commendable qualities about this restaurant (including geographic proximity, even the friendship aspects) that prompted him to have been a loyal customer in the past. drrevenue liked the food, leaving aside this particular night. He might choose not to visit again in the foseeable future, but might want to consider whether there are costs to him and his wife (even if limited, given the wide range of alternatives available) as well as loss of his pastronage to the restaurant. (4) That the chef decided not to ask drrevenue not to dine on the night in question is not necessarily a very negative factor. The chef might have, incorrectly in hindsight, believed that his kitchen (even depleted as it was) was capable of handling drrevenue's meal concurrently with the larger group's needs. For example, the kitchen might have had many components of the larger group's meals in a form that made them easy to finish off. (5) While I appreciate the circumstances show a lack of consideration on the part of the chef for drrevenue, it is also the case that drrevenuehad one very bad dish. Even under the best of conditions, a kitchen can provide a bad dish once in a while. I recognize the declining quality of the three dishes and the trend aspects. However, just as some dishes can subjectively please more than others, so too dishes can be affected by unanticipated factors and be ruined despite the best of intentions. I do not mean to convey lack of empathy/sympathy with drrevenue's described experience, because that is far from accurate. Customers like him are surely nuggets to be valued. However, perhaps a call could be placed to the maitre d' to gather additional information?

I had a good-plus dinner at Tasting Room recently, with very welcoming service. Some dishes I liked at more than the good-plus level; others I liked less. Chef Colin Alevras was temporarily helping out in the dining room, and was receptive to discussions about his food and wine. I would readily return to explore this restaurant. My dining companion and I ordered all dishes in the smaller "Taste" portion. Heirloom Tomatoes; Arugula, Garlic, Sherry Vinegar ($10) -- The taste of the yellow heirlooms was conveyed clearly. I would have preferred greater quantities of the accompanying garlic and sherry vinegar flavors, and that leads to my assessment of the dish as average. However, an appropriate utilization of the bitterness in the arugula. The wine I brought was Corton Charlemagne, Bonneau de Martray 1997. Maine Lobster Salad; Braised Artichokes, Grapes, Basil ($15) -- This dish was very good. The lobster was cooked just right, and the accompanying smallish grapes had an unusual (in a positive way) developed, sweetness. Foie Gras Terrine; Gooseberries & Asian Pear, Shallots, Strawberry Syrup ($13) -- I liked this dish as it was initially served to us. "Terrine" is probably not the best word to describe this small, room temperature molded mound of foie gras. It was a nice texture and flavor, with the strawberry syrup being more appealing than I had anticipated. The Asian pear was served in a cluster on the side, in strands. The dish was good enough that we ordered a second portion. The second item was slightly on the hard side, from not having left the refridgerator as early. For this dish, my dining companion and I shared a glass of late harvest Riesling that was nice and non-sticky in the mouth. Baked Rhode Island Day Boat Scallops; Turnip Puree, Watercress, Shallots, Sherry ($14) -- An average dish because the scallops were softer and more "limp" than I had expected. However, they were fresh-tasting. Bitterness from the watercress saucing was prominent and appropriate (although quite marked). Organic Pasture-Raised Chicken; Anise Hyssop, Romaine, Candied Beets, Shrimp Reduction ($13) -- A good chicken specimen, with nice utilization of lemon peel to intensify the jus- and shrimp-hinted reduction. I continued drinking the Corton Charlemagne, but my dining companion moved onto a red wine (name unrecorded) purchased from the restaurant. It was a good recommendation from the chef. Roasted and Braised Shoulder of Lamb; Zucchini, Garlic Confit, Olives, Saffron Jus ($14) -- This was very good. Flavorful; flesh that was not too cooked down, but yet tender. Nice control of the olives ingredient, which could dominate certain dishes in which it is included. Sullivan County Squab; Honeycomb, Sopressata Sausage, Swiss Chard, Salmis Sauce ($14) -- The squab was cooked medium rare, as we had ordered it, and its flesh was appropriate. I considered the saucing somewhat too honey-intensive. Selection of American Farmhouse Cheese; plums, melon, blueberries ($14) Crispy Rice Treat Ice Cream Sandwich; Caramel Sauce, Vanilla Ice Cream ($6) The corkage policy, already described by Beachfan, is appealing.

I called Gordon Ramsay's restaurant, "Menu", at The Connaught and was informed that the restaurant opens October 1. The first day for which the dining populus can make reservations is October 2. The restaurant could well be considering taking reservations now. The September 2002 edition of Conde Nast Traveler has an article on Ramsay. An excerpt follows: "Now the dining room is being redone by Nina Campbell ('deep burgundies and olives in shot silk, an opulent look', but the oak paneling stays), and the kitchen will have an all-female management. The head chef is a woman, Angela Hartnett, a Ramsay protegee from Aubergine and Petrus [among other Ramsay facilities she has worked for]. Customers will be reserved what Ramsay calls 'modern European cooking,' with influences from Italy, the Mediterranean, the Pays Basque, and Spain. . . . Ramsay is unphased by the misgivings of [actor Stephen] Fry and [chef-author Simon] Hopkinson. 'They're from the old farts club, aren't they?' he asked. 'I associate them with the pee and dribble brigade. They just want to go out on Friday night till two in the morning, get pissed as newts, and talk about their strict upbrginging and how they were tortured by their fathers at an early age. That's all gone now -- finished . . . .'" Ramsay's media interaction approach remains consistent. Conde Nast also reported that Ramsay is contemplating a restaurant in NY. See the NY forum.

I was subjectively ever-so-slightly disappointed by the tomato dinner at Blue Hill, although my extremely high expectations (resulting from prior wonderful meals at the restaurant) brought into the meal were a major cause for that. As Bux noted, the tomato ingredient was not the dominant ingredient in the halibut or the lamb. For me, the meal would have been aided by according greater prominence to the tomatoes in such dishes, so that tomatoes would have been the principal ingredient of every dish. That goes to the question of expectations too – as to how a meal in celebration of an ingredient unfolds. (I can appreciate the counterargument that diners generally expect a fish and meat dish in a tasting menu, and would be less receptive to tomato-based entree-type dishes) While the meal was not as wonderful to me as other recent meals at BH, it was still good. As Bux noted, the amuse of a tiny tomato with crabmeat inside was nice. The crabmeat was appropriately salted and flavorful, and the bit of tomato “lid” sitting on top of the crabmeat was cute in appearance. I liked the shot of tomato consome – there were subtle flowery notes (to be clear, not resulting from the utilization of flowers). The tomato terrine was the best dish of the evening, although the Tomatoes! dish rivaled it. The tomatoes utilized in the terrine were fleshy and dense – meaty, and likely included plum tomato-like heirloom varieties. In addition, the terrine was an exploration of the sweetness of such tomatoes. A well-conceived dish. This was matched with a Timarasso produced in the Piedmont region by a producer called Massa, which ahr and I discussed and considered a good match for the dishes. The Timarasso grape was described to us by Christopher as being to some extent similar to Arneis, which I had sampled by the quartino at Esca. The halibut was well-prepared, upon reflection. The skinless top portion of the filet was covered by a layer of soft, orange-colored material that included tomatoes. However, that layer was a bit more complex than that – it also had butter, some type of citrus juice and possibly (??) a puree of perhaps carrot or pumpkin or squash or alternatively super-softened breadcrumbs. As Bux described, the tomatoes occupied only a major supporting role in this dish – I would have hoped for the utilization of tomatoes in a more “unimpeded” manner. The mussels were nice in the saucing. This dish was served with an Italian white – Felluga. The lamb part of the main was alright – a bit salty for my tastes. Some of my dining companions provided the counterargument that the “gros sel” utilization was intended to be salty; however, I still considered the lamb oversalted. Also, a bit too heavy a hand with white pepper in places. The lamb seemed disconnected within the composition of the dish from the wonderful tomato/eggplant/crisp zucchini/soft onion tart that accompanied it. The tart was enhanced by the inclusion of mushrooms, and its surprisingly attractive hot temperature (it was quite hot!). There was also, within the tart, a little patch of fingerling potatoes with walnut butter that was appealing. Overall, a good dish because of the tomato-based tart. This was served with a plummy, cherry-noted Caparoso from California. Then, a pre-dessert about which I had mixed reactions. I considered the yellow-colored peaches and the syrup in this item to be alright, but the little soft cubes of tomato gelee incorporated into the syrup were special. Slightly salty, and expressive of tomato flavors. The dessert – tomatoes were not sufficiently pronounced in it relative to my unusual subjective expectations. And kudos to jordyn for organizing the get-together _____________ Separately and as mentioned by other members, BH’s chefs participated in the Cooking Game organized by Adam Gopnik, as described in an article in The New Yorker’s Food Issue. There is quite a bit of information on Dan in particular: “A year ago, I wandered into Blue Hill, which he [Dan] oversees with his fellow-chef Michael Anthony, expecting the kind of well-meaning meal you get from a young guy who has cooked for a couple of years in France, and instead ate as good a meal as any I have had outside the three-star places in Paris. Describing food is difficult, not because we can’t capture in words things that are sensual . . . but because memorable description depends on startling metaphors, and startling metaphors depend on a willingness to be startled. . . . . If someone wrote, for instance, that Dan Barber’s foie gras with ground coffee beans is at once as inevitable as a tide and as astonishing as a wave, the reader’s first response would be to think, quite rightly, that it is not, at all. (And yet it is.) . . . . ‘Dan has this whole right-brain, left-brain thing going, which is rare for one of us,’ another cook said. . . . the way he . . . talks (acerbic, observant, self-critical) . . . . I was drawn to Dan Barber, though, because, alone among the cooks, he had what every doctrine ought to inspire, and that is doubts, and not just doubts but Doubts. . . . [H]e still wasn’t sure he wanted to spend the rest of his life cooking. He is in the position of a trombone virtuoso who never exactly intended to be a trombone player. ‘I mean, do I really want to spend my life doing this?’ he said one morning. . . .”

Chef Hawksworth -- I'd appreciate hearing more about your experiences at Blue Hill, including specific dishes sampled.

Last night, Blue Hill offered a "Celebrating the Tomato" dinner. ahr, jordyn, stefanyb, Toby and I were on hand to sample the dishes described below. eGulleteers occupied three tables, as Nina W and a friend were present and Bux and his family also dined. Many of us chatted when we visited other tables, or at the end of our meals. The dining room team provided outstanding assistance, particularly Christopher (the dining room manager) in his elucidation of various paired wines. Mike Anthony greeted all of us in his wonderfully welcoming manner at the end of the meal. -- Amuses: Tiny tomato stuffed with crabmeat and its "lid" on top; shotglass of tomato consome -- Tomato Terrine, with a Confit of Heirlooms and Tomato Sorbet (for 1/2 the diners) -- Tomatoes! (for the other diners) -- Chatham Halibut, Crusted with Tomato, Mussel and Ginger Broth -- Loin of Lamb, Tomato, Zucchini and Eggplant "Tart" -- "Peches au Vin", Macerated Peaches in a Light Rose Wine Syrup, Peach Granite and Tomato Gelee -- Plums and Tomatoes, in Phyllo Dough with Plum Sorbet

cet2055 -- This is my third post today. However, given that you are traveling over the weekend: Ubon has largely the same menu as Nobu London. And Nobu London has a similar menu to Nobu NY, Vegas, etc. (leaving aside the question of whether there is time lag with menu changes, a point on which I do not have sufficient data.) There is an Ubon near Canary Wharf -- it is literally within 3 minutes of the Four Seasons there. One can order omakase (chefs' choice) like at any other Nobu, and that will include some of the usual suspects. One enters through an iron gate that leads to a path, so don't miss that if you decide to go. One can order black cod with miso, tiradito, some of the sushi/sashimi items. The dessert in the omakase as of 2Q 2002 was the same bento box with the chocolate cake with runny interior and green tea ice cream. I heard third hand that there might be more udon (thick noodle) and other noodle dishes, but did not focus on that aspect of the menu when I visited. If you are from a city in the US with a Nobu restaurant, I would not necessarily find Ubon appealing as it is not that differentiated from affiliated establishments. How about La Tante Claire (unclear whether open for lunch on weekends) or Gordon Ramsay Royal Hospital Road (RHR is closed on weekends) for lunch? They have decent deals, assuming you do not order excessively on wine. The Capital comes heavily recommended by other board members, and is definitely open Sunday lunch. If it were up to me, I would visit a restaurant unaffiliated with Nobu. If you are interested in recommendations, consider providing some indication of what you like (apart from Nobu).

I'd appreciate learning how you have adapted culinary techniques from the multiple, robustly-staffed European kitchens you directed for implementation in the Ouest kitchen. Please provide examples of how particularly labor-intensive dishes have been addressed (including by exlusion from your menu, as applicable) at Ouest. In addition, please discuss whether, from time to time, you miss some of the types of leadership opportunities you had when you were sous-chef at Manoir and The Square and chef at L'Escargot. In your mind, is the sense of ownership (incl. through creation of a restaurant) you have at Ouest a good substitute for any reduced sense of leading a large brigade? What are the transformed types of leadership that you exhibit more of at Ouest, with a smaller team?