cabrales

In the course of researching The Inn at Little Washington, I noticed some suggestively-named desserts: (1) "Seven Deadly Sins", a chocolate-based dish, and (2) "White Chocolate Mousse in Bed between Dark Silky Sheets". It's hard to tell whether the names were intended to also be humorous, as I have never visited the rsetaurant.

I'd appreciate members' input on the kitchen table at The Inn at Little Washington.

ajay -- The truffles I had at Clio were good -- nice aroma and sufficiently large. Also, I like the way the truffle shavings curled upwards in some places last night. However, due to this having been my first sampling of white truffles this year, it might be premature to arrive at a conclusion on a comparison to last year's crop. Also, I am of the mindset that a strong restaurant can utilize an ingredient, even one that is typically shaved on without cooking, to advantage and it is the cuisinier (rather than differences in the quality of the ingredient over time) that can elevate the product. Also, sampling white or black truffles in Europe might offer different conclusions that tasting them in North America (?). As for appealing places to sample white truffles in NY, that's a good question. I'd be interested in soliciting member input on it as well.

Steven -- My 2002 version of the NYT Guide to New York City Restaurants is at a different location, but the 2001 guide does not list Sammy's as a starred restaurant. There is an entry for Sammy's, and it has the "$$$" price rating instead of the "$25 and under" price rating. However, there are no stars next to the entry. Also, early in the guide, there is a list of all restaurants that have stars, categorized by the number of stars. That list does not contain Sammy's.

When game becomes in season (it's a bit early now, although I sampled grouse last month at Chamaree in Paris), I have considered Rules for grouse as a post-theater option. The presentation is a bit traditional, and I have definitely had better grouse in London. However, when I am inclined to have something gamey and substantial, Rules is an option. Note that grouse is not included in the reasonably priced post-theater prix fixe menu at Rules. I am unclear as to the closing time at Rules.

I recently had dinner at Ken Oringer's Clio. The appetizers were good-plus-plus, but the entrees were poor. Overall, the meal was good-minus. As described below, I had my first fresh white truffles of the season during this meal -- that helped the meal to some extent. My dining companion advised me that she had been denied access to Clio sushi bar dishes in the main restaurant previously. Hence, we arrived about 1/2 hour earlier than our reservation at the main restaurant, to see if we could grab a seat at the no-reservations sushi bar. There is a separate bar area for drinks, but, if there is room at the sushi bar, the receptionists did not appear to object to guests spending time there. The sushi bar is to the right, after a couple of steps along a downward staircase, when one enters the restaurant. There were perhaps less than eight sushi bar seats, and less than seven tables. The three "sushi chefs" (with all respect; it was somewhat unclear whether the men had been trained as traditional sushi chefs) were busying themselves behind a small counter that did not offer a full range of ingredients. Two of the three were not Japanese in ethnicity, not that that is relevant. The sushi bar menu had some plated/constructed Nobu-type sushi dishes, including O'Toro tartare that my dining companion pronounced to be as good as that at Nobu NY. (1) Santa Barbara Sea Urchin with Hamachi, Yuzu Vinaigrette, Radishes and Onion Seeds" ($15). My order of this dish reflected the inclusion of this dish among the appetizers offered by the main restaurant, and my liking sea urchins. This dish was good-to-very-good, with three to four relatively thick, fresh and rather fatty (as far as yellowtail goes) hamachi sitting in a slightly citrus-y (from the yuzu) vinaigrette. The fattiness of the yellowtail was noteworthy. On top of the hamachi slices were perhaps 3-4 boxed sea urchins -- although boxed, they were nice. The Aji Amarillo aspect of the dish was appropriately limited. At the sushi bar, I drank a "Silk Kimono" (Momokawa Asian-pear-infused sake, midori and orange juice). This drink appeared in a large martini glass, with a bit of reddish color at the bottom "tip", and was a light green color. A nice concoction that I would order again as an aperatif, with hints of apple-ly and perfumed flavors). (2) Ragout of Calamari with grains of paradise, Argan oil and carrot emulsion ($14). An interesting dish, and one that transformed the intrinsic taste of carrots (in a good way). The carrot puree had been integrated into a broth containing coriander, cumin and cayenne pepper. The argan oil was, thankfully, appropriate limited in quantity. (When I last encountered argan oil in a dish, it was at Gagnaire recently -- problematic) The overall saucing effects were rather interesting. The calamari had been fashioned into long, tagliatelli-like strands. They were presented in a mound, with strands a bit like pasta strands. Appropriately cooked. Also, the pasta-like effects helped the calamari absorb the saucing. I liked this version better than the calamari-or-squid-like-seafood pasta item at Nobu. (3) 1/2 Tagliatelli with Fresh White Truffle Shavings ($60 for shared single order; we did not inquire as to the price prior to ordering, but when our dining room team member described it as "very expensive", even though less so than prior years, I was picturing $100. My dining companion and I agreed that, had we known it was $60, we would have each ordered a full serving) This was the only daily special in place on the night in question. Our dining room team member (whose service was good, until the pitfall regarding the mignardises described below; also an effective French-speaking maitre d') recounted in some detail (in a good way) how Clio always orders white truffles when they become available. He noted that the white truffles in question were from Italy (no kidding!) and that they were fresh and had not been frozen. I observed it seemed just slightly early for white truffles, but ordered the dish with relish. These would indeed be my first white truffles for this season! The dish arrived at the table -- quite aromatic, with truffle shavings that were nice in quantity, and from a reasonably large white truffle. The pasta had been wound into a coiled mound that was a long rectangular in shape. The saucing had been tossed into the pasta already, being butter-based, bearing diced chives and also having nicely integrated Parmesan (likely) components. This was a good base for the truffles. Also, the amount of pasta and white truffles was rather large. Even with 1/2 helping, I felt the tagliatelle quantity was fine. (4) Sweet Butter Basted Maine Lobster with Chanterelles, Fava Beans and Vin Jaune 'Arboir ($36). This dish was fundamentally flawed, and an assessment of poor (instead of poor-minus or very poor) might have been unduly generous. I ordered this dish because the butter basting reference brought to mind T Keller's butter poaching of lobsters (I think the poaching method is essentially used by Orringer for this dish) and because the combination of vin jaune (yellow wine from the South of France) with lobster is a signature dish at a Parisian three-star. However, Clio's lobster dish was unappealing. First, the Maine lobster utilized lacked the delicacy and flavor in its flesh of Brittany lobsters. While the Clio lobster had an acceptable texture (slightly "crisp", in an appropriate way), the flesh lacked a true lobster flavor. Second, the lobster was presented deshelled and whole (or cut into no more than two pieces for the whole lobster). Third, and crucially, the kitchen had cooked the yellow wine to the point where its predominant mark on the lobster dish was its sour and acidic aftertaste in the saucing. This was a fundamental flaw in the dish. The fava beans were limp and unattractive looking, and the chanterelles fared little better. For some reason, they seemed to be stubby, very short-stalked chanterelles that were not particularly tasty to begin with, and that had in addition been overcooked. A dish that, through its pure misguided effects, highlighted how wonderful the dishes on which it may have been predicated actually are. I sampled meaningful amounts of my dining companion's Roasted Suckling Pig and Spareribs with Young Turnips, Kohlrabi and Honshimiji Mushrooms. This dish was not particularly good either because (1) the significant amount of crackling included had literally no fat associated with it and seemed to lack lusciousness, (2) the suckling pig (belly?) meat was too soft and lacked real flavor, and (3) star anise had been utilized with too severe a hand by the kitchen. (5) Mignardises. We were too full for dessert, and ordered only espresso. Plus, I have been attempting to diet for several weeks now (unsuccessfully). When the four small pieces of mignardises arrived, our dining room team member literally indicated the following (or something very similar): "Our pastry chef didn't want you to go without anything, and is offering these mignardises for your sampling". Perhaps those were not the words, because the clear implication of the normal reading of the member's literal words would have been that the items offered were being offered *unusually* and free of charge. I replied, amusedly: "I was hoping to receive mignardises, as they are routinely offered here and at comparable establishments." The dining room team member was a bit taken aback (by the substance, although not the method of expression, of my remark), and muttered something to the effect that at Clio, people sometimes send back the mignardises on account of not having ordered them. What sort of guests is this restaurant attracting, I asked myself? Clio is one of the more high-end restaurants in Boston, and caters to what I believe would be a reasonably informed crowd. Interestingly, the table next to me did not seem particularly informed. Immediately upon being seated, the man at that table asked our dining room team member whether Clio offered wines by the glass?! First, I wouldn't have asked that as my first question to a dining room team. Second, there are always wine by the glass at restaurants like Clio (query depth and quality -- but they are always available). Interestingly, that table ordered a la carte like we did, and received a complimentary appetizer when it did not order one. Generous of the chef, but perhaps rewarding the non-ordering of appetizers by that table, relative to our table, which, with the sushi bar orders, had ordered 2.5 or 3.5 appetizers per diner. Note I am not unhappy with the free appetizers received by the other table (they were actual appetizers from the menu, in full size, as my dining companion had ordered the same thing). I am merely observing that the restaurant, despite solicitous treatment of us by the maitre d' and dining room team member, was perhaps more generous to diners who were evidently budget-conscious. That could be taken as a positive for a restaurant, I suppose. The mignardises were appropriate, particularly the small kiwi gelee cube. However, there were a total of four pieces for two people. As always, I note our bill. It was $340-375 after tax and before tip, with a $85 bottle of 1998 Chassagne Montrachet, Chateau de la Maltraye included. The bottle of Chassagne Montrachet, Ramonet, and the white Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape on which I had my eye from the restaurant's indicative wine list on its website were not available. A final note. Orringer uses more Asian spicing and other ingredients than I had previously thought (yuzu; radishes; sea urchin -- which also appears in the appetizer of Cassolette of Lobster and Sea Urchin with Yuzu and Japanese Pepper; lychee -- which accompany a roasted Muscovy duck, etc.)

(4) Duck -- This dish was outstanding Four or five slices of duck, the flesh flavorful and cooked just right, were sitting on top of a black-colored metallic "burner" (unclear whether coal or special wood utilized). The burner was visually beautiful, having curved lines and a noticeable, rounded base of a quasi-tomato-red color. The duck had just the right amount of fat linking the appropriately cooked skin an the flesh. Separately presented from the duck was a little indented dish of Concord grape dipping sauce, of a medium consistency. Here, the Concord grape was relatively pronounced again, almost as if it were reminding me of the versatility of the grape. The three members of our dining group agreed that the wondeful dipping sauce tasted almost of Concorde grape and white Worcestshire sauce (we were collectively perhaps 85 percent confident). Imagine our surprise when we were advised that the effect had been produced using white soy and yuzu. There was a bit of acidity, that was side by side with intensity. The wine chosen was outstanding -- a 100% Cabernet Franc from the Loire region, Fillatreau. (5) Belle Rouge Chicken -- At this point in the meal, I was expecting lamb or perhaps baby beef. Imagine my subjective pleasure when my dining companions received lamb (with walnut crust) and I receive BELLE ROUGE chicken. As discussed elsewhere on the board, Belle Rouge chicken has only recently begun to be offered in the Union Square Greenmarket. How thoughtful of Mike to have remembered that I am heavily interested in chicken. I had inquired within the last couple of days on the board about what the taste of Belle Rouge chicken might be like. Well, I found out through dinner at BH. The chicken was presented skinless, its flesh a gleaning whitish color. The meat was very smooth, and flavorful. Interestingly, it almost had a very, very muted sense of sweetness and coconut-or-almond-like connotations. I appreciated this dish quite a bit, for purely its taste as well as for the consideration that it embodied. The dish was further enhanced by (1) a single tomato, cooked a bit, and (2) a surprisingly delicate eggplant section, which did not resemble the taste of purple-skinned eggplant and which offered silkiness and subtlety in ways I liked. Again, the wine selection was very good, and reflected thought and a desisre to spur interest. I had a glass of Marion from the Veneto region in Italy (with which I am generally not familiar, but about which I am eager to learn). (6) Pre-dessert of marinated stawberries and bluberries with a Concord grape granite. The granite was dark and intense, in the best possible way. The strawberries had been softened, and were closer to the Concord saucing than the more pristine, fresh-tasting blueberries. The dish was appealing, with mint (and less noticeable lemongrass) rendering the Concord grapes less dominant and providing nice aftertastes. (7) The dessert was very good, and interesting. Unpeeled grapes and peeled grapes were combined in a nuanced sabayon that also contained neutral-tasting slices of small plums and rasberries. The dominant flavor in this beautiful-looking and advanced (with respect to conceptual underpinning and execution) dessert was that of Concord grapes. Interestingly, when the sabayon had been "grilled" on top by exposure to heat, it exuded the sensations on the nose that could have been mistaken for cheese. This was accompanied by a sparkling Riseling. Overall, an excellent dinner, from the cuisinier I prefer in New York. Yummy for the taste buds and for contemplation. laugh:

After sampling the gloriousness of the sea urchin dish described below, our dining party asked if Chef Mike Anthony would please increase the number of courses in our all-Concord-grape tasting menu. As always, Mike was happy to assist. Consistent with prior meals at BH, Christopher's wine pairings were outstanding -- and interesting at the same time. Last night's meal unfolded with a shotglass of dairyless corn soup augmented by basil oil. Promising, just like a corn soup with peanut oil I had sampled on a previous occasion. (1) Sea Urchin -- This dish was superb. Sea urchin from Maine was served in its spiky "shell", which I cupped with my fingers at times. There was just the right amount of clear-tasting crabmeat beneath the sea urchin. The urchin flavors were intense, and the sabayon atop it was laced with just the right (limited) sensations from the muted, but arresting, sweetness of Concord grapes. The saucing likely contained Champagne, which controlled (in an appealing way) the sweetness of the grapes. I specifically asked for more sea urchins after having been seduced by this first one, but there were no more in the kitchen. A dish that offered some of my preferred ingredients -- egg, sea urchin, champagne. The wine pairing was Con Class, a Spanish white that was nicely aromatic. This was the first non-white-Rioja Spanish white I had sampled. (2) Monkfish -- This was the only dish on which I had a less-than-entirely-enthusiastic reaction, although the dish overall was still good-plus. Slices of monkfish were accompanied by a sauce that included chicken jus, Concord grapes and lemon thyme. The monkfish was slightly soft in inherent texture relative to my subjective preference, and did not have a strong "elastic"/firm feel. However, the saucing was appealing, and the Concord grapes in this dish were *fascinating*. They were presented whole, with the skin intact. Interestingly, somehow the cooking method resulted in the diner sampling the intensity, tanin-like qualities, "darkness" and slight, slight bitterness (intended) of the cooked grape skin -- separately from the attached succulent, less cooked, flesh interior of the grape. It was as though each little Concord grape was a burst of strong sensations. Wonderfully, mixed in with the unpeeled Concord grapes were pearl onions that were round in shape and that strongly resembled peeled Concord grapes. I had anticipated the peeled and unpeeled grapes being utilized in a dish together, and initially thought I had guessed correctly with respect to this dish. Imagine how amused I was when I bit into the softened, slightly savory onions! A play on not just visual appearances, but potentially also a statement as to the blurring boundaries between the sensations conveyed by fruit and by vegetables. Also mixed in with the Concord grapes and pearl onions were very few bits of potatoes and some diced chives. The wine paired was Domaine Henry from the Languedoc-Rousillon region. (3) Foie Gras -- The utilization of Concord grapes in this dish took such a divergent tone from that in the monkfish creation. Here, the Concord grapes were no longer purplish, but instead a mature, but relatively bright, reddish color. I was enjoying the visual appearance of the grapes while tasting them. The Concord grapes here exhibited a tartness that reminded me of cranberries and red currants. In fact, if I had been asked to guess what the ingredient making up the saucing was outside of the context of an all-Concorde grape meal, I would have guessed with some confidence berries. The foie gras piece had been sauteed, and accompmanied by tellicherry peppercorns. Also appealing was the medium-consistency coconut milk saucing included. It balanced the tartness of the Concord grape saucing, and added almost an almond-like, or otherwise fragrant, aftertaste. The wine chosen was wonderful -- a Muscat from Vineto, Italy, that had lychee tones, among other things, on the nose. I am off to Clio. I'll try to write up the remainder of the Blue Hill meal sometime tomorrow.

An article in the October 2002 edition of Elle (US) describes the increasing popularity of tasting menus (what has the author, Liza Schoenfein, been doing for a while, to now "discover" this trend?). The article contains a wonderful looking "Spanish-influenced salmon taster" dish from Blue Hill. "In October, a diner [choosing the BH tasting menu] might start with a dish of marinated octupus in a carrot-juice cocktail and move on to Florida red snapper with porcini mushrooms, followed by Vermont loin of veal with braised red cabbage, baby turnips and beets. The first of two desserts might be 'last chance' berry soup with a fromage blanc sorbet, the second a warm chocolate bread pudding. 'It's great to be able to present your cuisine in a structured way, to give the guest a range of flavors,' says owner and co-chef Dan Barber . . . Restaurants that offer tasting menus may also recommend course-by-course wine pairings. Clealy, this is more than a meal; it's a dining experience -- which, according to Barber, is just what sophisticated restaurant-goers are looking for. 'The staff pays particular attention to people who order the tasting menu, because there's a heightened awareness that this is a diner who's taking their visit here seriously,' he says." The latter point has been made by Dan previously.

I had lunch recently at Sel de la Terre (Salt of the Earth, translated). SDLT is a very informal restaurant, located near the Aquarium and the starting point of certain whale-watching cruises. It is the sibling of L'Espalier, and has the former sous-chef of L'Espalier as its chef. The lunch was average-minus-to-poor. The bread at SDLT is supposed to be unusual, as the chef takes a particular interest in breadmaking. However, I did not find it particularly appealing. We began with a "petit gouter" (small taste) of Tomato Confit with Aged Balsamic ($5), shared between two people. This consisted of 1/2 of a largish tomato, with skin removed. The tomato has been cooked slowly, according to the dining room team member. It was too soft, and the roasted garlic, olive oil, balsamic and chive bits did not enliven the dish enough. Overall, average-minus. We also shared a Provencal steamed mussels dish ($7), which was also average-minus. The mussels came in a tomato-based broth that was alright (other ingredients included white wine and softened onion). However, the mussel meat itself was unduly soft, and lacked the taste of the sea. I proceeded to sample 1/2 a portion of Poached Eggs with Country Smoked Ham, Spinach, Roasted Potatoes and Hollandaise Sauce. This was average, with two eggs appropriately runny in the inside and sides of ham. The spinach had nicely blended with the appropriately light hollandaise. A small sprig of chervil was appropriate, as were the roasted red pepper bits for added flavoring. The other entree was a special request. I asked that the Sliced BBQ chicken from the sandwich selection be made into a salad. This dish suffered from several problems. First, I had asked specifically that the chicken not be sliced in the salad; the resulting dish did not meet this requirement. Second, the barbecue sauce was not particularly tasting. Cumin had been included in it, and it was too severe for the dish, although the cumin components were not particularly pronounced. Third, the chicken, while not poor in an absolute sense in quality, as poor relative to the Belle Rouge variety Blue Hill had provided to me the night before. We did not order dessert. Lunch was completed in less than 1.5 hours. SDLT is not a gastronomic restaurant, in my view. It can hardly be called a bistro. It is perhaps better viewed as an informal eatery.

How can I readily convey my appreciation towards Chef Mike Anthony, Christopher, the dining room team member who primarily assisted us so wonderfully and the remainder of the Blue Hill dining room and kitchen team for having made dinner tonight literally the best meal I have had in New York? (Also, thanks to Dan, who may not have been in the kitchen tonight (?), but of course participated integrally in Concorde grape projects at BH). My reservation predated the front-page-NYT-dining-section article on the utilization of Concorde grapes at Blue Hill. However, my review of the article, with its oversized pictures of plump looking Concorde grapes (both on the vine, and in clusters in the BH kitchen), spurred me to put in a call to Mike yesterday. I asked whether I could have all three of the Concorde grape-based dishes described in the NY article. Mike noted that he could consider an all-Concorde grape tasting menu. Perfect, I thought. I'll continue writing soon, but suffice it to say that grapes are rather special for me. As I have noted on the board, peeled green grapes were not only my first childhood memories of food, but also a strongly preferred item still. True, I had never sampled too many Concorde grapes (or not, at least, to my knowledge). However, grapes exist for a reason other than in connection with the production of wine.... The varied guises in which Concorde grapes presented themselves in every dish our dining party sampled charmed me, with respect to pure deliciousness as well as thoughtfulness on the part of Mike. Details to come...

Early this month, Agence France Presse provided the following update: "Five Paris chefs, including three with three-star rank, will dish out hot mouth-watering bowls of soup **free** of charge in December . . . The weeklong soup fest opens December 2 in the chic 16th district with a steaming offer of soup from Roland Durand of Passiflore who rates a single of the prized Michelin stars. On December 4, at the central Saint-Germain-des-Pres market, three-star chef Alain Passard of L'Arpege will have a velvety soup of fresh mushrooms, sweet onions, purple garlic and crushed peanuts. Others involved in the soup happening ending December 8 are three-star chefs Guy Martin of the Le Grand Vefour [3 stars], Pierre Gagnaire [3 stars]-- whose restaurant carries his name -- and Yves Camdeborde of La Regalade. The free soup is part of a yearly event that began in 1999 called 'fooding' . . . ."

Troisgros is offering the following special meal at 160 euros/person, with included described wines. "Cubic" de tomate (Cubic of tomato) Consommé de Noques au cumin, courgettes (Consomme of ? with cumin, zucchini) Poêlée d'anguille et grenouilles aux noisettes, beurre de câpres (Pan-fried eels and frogs with hazelnut and caper butter) Fritot de pigeon et foie gras "Koumir", cueillette de champignons (Fritot of pigeon, with foie gras and mushrooms) Cannelloni tiède de chèvre aux herbes (Warm cannelloni with chevre and herbs) Quatuor de desserts (Dessert) The beverages are: (1) Touraine 2000 Domaine Marionnet, (2) Coteaux du Languedoc Saint Georges d'Orque 1999, (3) Pacherenc du Vic Bilh 2000, and (4) water and coffee.

Well, in my assessment, Ducasse has a better chance of stacking up favorably in NY, where his competition is weaker. Also, his attempted service level is supposed to be higher than that of his competitors. So, one should note that Ducasse is expensive when ADNY is stacked up against *New York* restaurants. Ducasse is not as expensive as Veyrat, for example.

Charles -- Yes, the dish utilizes a Beaujolais. The dish in question is called Château au vin de Fleurie et à la moelle, pommes de terre à la forézienne ("Fillet with Fleurie wine and marrow, Forézienne potatoes"). It is a dish not created by Michel Troisgros, but by Pierre and/or Jean. It has appeared, I believe, in one of the earlier generation Troisgros' books. The Troisgros site provides the following discussion: "This classic recipe from the Troisgros brothers' heyday has had many interpretations depending on the cut of beef used: rib of beef, prime steak or choice slices from the heart of a beef fillet. Roanne is located near Charolais, a region which is famous for its race of bovines. For this particular recipe, slices are taken from the fillet of a female more than three years old. When using a rib or sirloin steak, we prefer meat from four-year-old bovines of the Salers or Normande race. To accompany this dish choose a Fleurie, one of the 10 Beaujolais vineyards, a light and fruity wine that is best drunk chilled and young. As an accompaniment we serve the gratin forézien, a variation on gratin dauphinois without cheese." There is also a recipe under the "The News" category on the Troisgros (English version included) website. Troisgros is a wonderful place to have Charolaise beef, from white-colored cattle raised nearby. The beef was offered in two alternative preparations on the menu: (1) Chateau au vin de Fleurie et a la moelle, pommes de terre a la forezienne (beef with Fleurie beaujolais sauce, marrow and potatoes; reference to "Chateau" or castle unclear -- it was not chateaubriand), and (2) Pave au poivre mignonnette, laque de glace de viande (steak with pepper sauce). The Charolaise beef was prepared beautifully; it was tender and imbued with flavor. Interestingly, unlike Kobe beef, Charolaise does not rely on the effect of fat running through it. The pieces we received were relatively lean (in a good way). Since I was eating with one other person and wanted to sample Troisgros' Pigonneau du Brionnais roti aux epinards vinaigres "Chef Jean" (roasted pigonneau with spinach and vinegar in the style of J. Troisgros -- wonderful use of acidity), I was debating which beef dish to order. Consistent with the impressive service we had received previously, the waiter offered to split one beef order into the two preparations. (It might have helped that we had ordered a 1990 Echezeaux, H. Jayer from the restaurant's excellent wine list.) The preparation with the Fleurie was intense and satisfying, with a dollop of marrow having been "plomped" quite generously on top. The version with the (black) pepper sauce was also good. The rest of our yummy meal at Troisgros meal (we chose a la carte) consisted of: Huitre creuse au Raifort et au cresson (oysters with horseradish and watercress) L'aubergine en gelee fraiche au citron vert, une pincee de cumin (aubergine gelee with green lemon and a bit of cumin) Saint-Jacques "Melba" aux langues d'oursins (scallops and sea urchins on a thin melba toast) (Above dishes all taken with champagne) Troncons d'anguille poches et colores, de la grenade (poached fresh water eel with pomegranate) [Pigeonneau and beef described above] Sorbet, citron vert avec vodka, pomme vert avec calvados (green lemon sorbet with vodka, green apple sorbet with calvados) Romeo y Julieta Cedra No. 3 + (see A. Balic) Armagnac! A few days later, I ordered Filet de Boeuf de Charolais a la sauce burguignonne at Loiseau's La Cote d'Or. This was nice too, with the sauce being a relatively familiar one. The setting added to the meal. We were looking out onto gardens covered with snow, happily taking in lobster bisque with green cabbage and the frogs' legs with parsley and garlic. I could not resist a half bottle of 1998 Puligny Montrachet, Jadot for less than 500 FF and had had too much to drink the previous evening, so had to order a glass of Loiseau private label red for the beef. The red was not poor. Upon completing this post, I am wondering if it should have been placed under "France" (?). Since the above post, I have sampled Aubrac beef a number of times, including at M Bras and at Maison d'Aubrac in Paris. I have also sampled more Salers. I still prefer Charolais, which is the beef utilized at least at most Paris two- and three-stars.

Well, I don't have anything negative to say about PL. However, I prefer Charolais beef to PL's beef, and I prefer Charolais sampled at Troisgros. Within Charolais sampled at Troisgros, I prefer the preparation with Fleurie as it stands currently at the restaurant. (This is not a parody. Those are my preferences.)

Steven -- Why have you mentioned twice the PMs you received? Are lurkers PM'ing you, and, if not, why are the members not setting forth the discussion for others to respond?

Here's the restaurant description from The Savoy group's website: http://www.savoy-group.com/connaught/dinin...restaurant.html (shows the restaurant in a small picture; click on the picture to reveal a larger sized window) Interestingly, the restaurant name appears to have the chef's name in it: "Angela Hartnett’s Menu". Note there is also a chef's table. "The most coveted table at The Connaught may well be the new 'Chef's Table' which seats up to 10 guests in the heart of Angela Hartnett's dynamic, new kitchen."

Steven -- So that's the attitude you adopt vis-a-vis members on this site? How much people have dined out with respect to frequency and how much they know about cuisine? I might or might not stack up in the ways you describe, and I do not have an inflated ego from this perspective, but I object to the way your remark is framed. Totally detaching this from Steve Klc and Bux, each of whom I respect incredibly as diners and as people passionate and knowledgeable about cuisine, and from me. So your calculus would go like this, or how would it go? Diner C is younger than Diner X, so Diner C must have dined out less. Other than by age, how do you know I have dined out less? If it's by age, wouldn't the quality of the estabilshments frequented be at least somewhat relevant to dining experience. Note that I am not saying either Diner C or Diner X might have quality or quantity in terms of experience. I'm saying that the comparison should not be framed in such terms. If Diner C cares about the cuisine he is sampling, is very attentive and thinks a lot about food, he could have the same appreciation for it as Diner X. Or Diner C might choose not to care so much about analysis of the food. Either way, Diner C is not necessarily weaker than Diner X when it comes to appreciating food. Or consider Diner C, who lives in a regino where there are not that many good restaurants. Diner X lives in Paris. That does not mean Diner C's viewpoints are any less valid. Also, I object to the notion of "dining out" as the relevant standard, as highlighted in your post. Diner C might be an excellent home cook, and therefore not eat out as much as Diner X. That does not make Diner C's perceptions any less valid than Diner X's.

Steven -- Below is the context of my prior statement: "May I add that Ducasse is self-aggrandizing and promotes himself, including through publicity received in the US in connection with opening up ADNY, the creation of his **array of misguided establishments,** etc. That is part of why the **public (speaking of the overall population of diners with respect to all restaurants) might know of his name better.** Ducasse might be like a chain store that offers appropriate work clothes. However, other cuisiniers might be like Giorgio Armani black label or Cerrutti with respect to work clothes -- **they don't seek to appeal to everybody** and in fact prefer **a more limited, but appropriately appreciative, audience.**" You read the above to be framed in terms of connaisseurship. Note the references in the materials preceding the sentence you singled out to the number of establishments and Ducasse's broad exposure to the public (meaning everybody who is accessed by publicity) and name reconigition. So the chain store reference suggests that Ducasse has multiple establishments (including, as you know, facilities that are a joke with respect to haute cuisine and that do not purport to offer haute cuisine, like the Spoons and Bastide de Moustiers). Accordingly, I stated that Ducasse is better known (just as certain chain stores are better known than Cerrutti) and more widely available (including in different geographic locations, as Orik has pointed out). Ducasse's cuisine has a chain store notion in another sense as well -- the general similarity of styles/dish composition across different establishments. After I dined the last time at PA this May, I compared my menu with robert brown, who had recently celebrated his birthday at ADNY. We noticed that many dishes utilized the same principal ingredient, and general framework for composition. In chain stores, similar products are offered. As of 2Q 2002, at least, PA and ADNY were not offering the same dishes, but they were offering not dissimilar dishes. When I revisited ADNY subsequent to May 2002, the dishes had changed, but then I did not have the then current dishes for PA. Third, chain stores have names that are broadly known to the relevant potential client base and they sell to more products. Cerrutti does not -- it is small and does not produce very much. It makes things for people who have a particular aesthetic -- not that that aesthetic is necessarily superior, but it is *particular* (in the sense of speaking with conviction). Obviously, Ducasse with his introduction of a boulangerie/epicerie (whatever it is in Paris) is working to access a broader base of clients than certain other cuisiniers. So, my chain store vs. Cerrutti analogy has been effective. It has gotten to many of the reasons that more people know about Ducasse (because he has more facilities), but why that is not necessarily positive, just like chain stores. Ducasse's food is like a well-oiled, relatively (note this word) available product -- it is functional, it is appropriate (or could be viewed as such), it appeals generally enough to most people who dine at his faciilties presumably, and it is marketed well. By the way, supervising people and having multiple establishments are not necessarily negatives. Gordon Ramsay does it on a less egregious scale. Howver, GR has somehow managed to preserve something special at RHR.

Steven -- One thing to bear in mind is that, in my assessment, diners in NY unfortunately do not have as an alternative set of restaurants as Parisians or others in France. So, in NY, ADNY might be perceived as a better restaurant than it should be when the range of restaurants in France is included in the equation. by the way, I reiterate that I would rather have a meal at Blue Hill any day than go to ADNY, leaving aside cost differences between the two restaurants. There is a reason that media coverage is negative on Ducasse -- people aren't moved by Ducasse's cuisine. Note my earlier statement: "May I add that Ducasse is self-aggrandizing and promotes himself, including through publicity received in the US in connection with opening up ADNY, the creation of his array of misguided establishments, etc." Note that publicity, even though initially negative, can increase the level of awareness of a chef. Obviously, Ducasse sought publicity coverage -- that it ended up being initially negative was not within his control. I also am interested in the number of times people have sampled the cuisine of the chef they dislike. I have made various visits (including recent visits to ADNY and PA, although I have no recent visits to Monaco) to Ducasse's places. Can the same be said of those who profess a disliking for another place? Orik -- The chance that a meal at any Ducasse establishment would be better in the manner you describe: 0%.

Steven -- If you mean to say something, don't couch it in terms of "If anything" -- that type of lead-in is amusing because it gives you an "out" in case I call you on what follows (which I am). Please clarify what you intended to convey through the quoted sentence? If you mean to say that Steve Klc and Bux know more about the preparation of food than Steve P and I do, that could very well be correct. With all respect to Steve Klc and Bux, if you mean to say they know more about sampling and appreciating food in restaurants than Steve P and I do, that is a wholly different proposition. I am not, to be clear, stating that Steve P and I know more about appreciating food than do Steve Klc and Bux. I am merely stating any statements in the reverse direction are presumptuous.

Breach #2, but worth it: There have been some references to the chef community. May I ask whether this is the US/Canadian chef community, or the chef community in France? And the chef community at what level -- e.g., two and three Michelin stars in France? Are members who have expressed the views of the chef community purporting to speak for an amorphous group, or can they articulate who within the chef community has articulated a viewpoint? May I add that Ducasse is self-aggrandizing and promotes himself, including through publicity received in the US in connection with opening up ADNY, the creation of his array of misguided establishments, etc. That is part of why the public (speaking of the overall population of diners with respect to all restaurants) might know of his name better. Ducasse might be like a chain store that offers appropriate work clothes. However, other cuisiniers might be like Giorgio Armani black label or Cerrutti with respect to work clothes -- they don't seek to appeal to everybody and in fact prefer a more limited, but appropriately appreciative, audience.

Oh, h*** (not even six hours, let alone six months) -- I am 100% with Steve P on this one. I think Ducasse's food is nothing next to Passard's cuisine . Ducasse is not as bad as Gagnaire/Pourcels in my book, so I would not fast instead of eating Ducasse's food, but I would not pay for it unless friends I cared a bit about wanted to sample it. Unfortunately, I do have some friends who have asked to sample Ducasse's food, and therefore I have visited on more than one occasion ADNY, Plaza Athenee and some Spoons. I have also visited Bastide de Moustiers and L'Hostellerie de l'Abbaye de la Celle. So I am speaking based on, sadly, various meals with Ducasse. I would much rather dine at Blue Hill than ADNY. As members know, Orik's reference to PA is to Ducasse's place in Paris (Plaza Athenee) and is not to AP, which might erroneously be taken as shorthand for another reference.

you broke your promise of limiting yourself to only 2 posts per day. i think i speak for everyone when i say that we're not angry, just a little upset that you weren't able to fulfill that commitment. I understand. I will now commit to six months of not posting anything. Hopefully I'll be more successful on this attempt.