docsconz

Bryan, so far your experience has been fairly similar to my own of last spring. L'Atelier displays classic French virtuosity with generally pure , crisp flavors. I have to admit, I was half expecting thee menu to be very similar to the one that I had in March. In one sense it is, in that the principle ingredients remain the same, however, with the exception of the quail and the veal, the preparations were substantially different. I agree with your overall assessment of the Wynn though I never did get to the buffet.

Carlo Russo's Wine and Spirits World has two locations, one of which is in Fort Lee and run by Carlo himself. The other in Ho-Ho-Kus, I am personally more familiar with. It is an excellent wine store though not cavernous. The locations: Carlo Russo Wine and Spirits World: 102 Linwood Plaza, Fort Lee; (201) 592-1655 Hohokus Wine and Spirits World: 626 North Maple Ave., Ho Ho Kus; (201) 444-2033

As I've mentioned a number of times, this is the only argument that I find potentially persuasive in support of the no-review position. Were I in the critic's position, I'd be concerned about exactly that: not wanting to encourage restaurants to think that, by firing the chef, they can get an automatic re-review. Then I'd think about it for another little while, consult my editors and trusted advisors, and come out of the huddle realizing that I'm a journalist, this is a story, I'm a critic, this is an important change at an important restaurant, and my job is to cover that change not worry about how my decision to review a restaurant is going to affect the industry. Because once you go down the path of worrying about the externalities you're no longer focusing on journalism or criticism. At that point you may as well say you don't want to write any bad reviews because people might lose their jobs. ← I fully agree with this statement. I think it is an obligation of a journalist at the level of the Chief Food Critic of the New York Times to report on truly noteworthy events in the world of New York food. The reason that restaurants at any star level shouldn't be re-reviewed is because there have been no substantive changes and the previous review still applies. At a restaurant at the level and aspirations of ADNY, the changing of the chef and direction of the restaurant was a significant change in a significant restaurant that should have at least laid the groundwork for consideration of a re-review. It may have even turned out that the re-review would not have had a substantially different result than the most recent prior review (I couldn't say as I never got to ADNY under Esnault), but that in itself would have been worthy news. There are and were very few restaurants in NYC with the pedigree and potential importance of ADNY. That in itself busts any potential precedent questions in my mind.

Indeed and thanks again! I had never previously heard of green chorizo.

Break a leg!

The frog is located on the skull slightly to the left of center of the photo.

Though made in various forms throughout Spain, Alicante and Valencia are considered the principle paella area of the country and therefore the world. I know that the only time I have ever had paella even remotely resembling the quality and sumpruousness of what I had in Valencia last spring was the paella made by the same person when he was at The World of Flavors Conference in California last fall. In both cases it was awesome! So true, except that comparisons of Spanish to Italian food are much easier to make as they are quite close in style and content in many areas due to overlapping history and similar geography. In fact the Tortilla Española that you mention, was something that growing up I always thought of as Italian as it was a staple in my Neapolitan heritage mother's family kitchen. Of course there is a huge overlap in history and tradition between Campania and Spain. Even the Neapolitan dialect of Italian probably owes almost as much to the Spanish language as it does to Italian. While a Spanish influence in Mexican cuisine certainly exists to varying degrees on a regional basis, the geography, local traditions and native flora and fauna are and were so different that the cuisines remain quite different even though mutual influences are apparent within each cuisine.

Going back over your original post, this caught my eye. What is "green" chorizo and how does it differ from regular Mexican chorizo?

Thanks!

Jennifer, if you have this information, please post it here. Huitlacoche is a fungus that infects corn. It grows between the husks and kernels. While not pretty, it has a subtle earthiness that is delicious and particularly prized in the Mexican kitchen.

Roasted cauliflower has been the single most influential eGullet Society food/recipe discovery for me. It is getting to be that season!

I recently read The $64 Tomato by William Alexander, a book about a man and his family's obsession with their garden and growing their own produce. It reminded me of why I appreciate Farmers Markets so much! It was very well written and quite enjoyable.

Congratulations on a noteworthy achievement! Who are the other four dairies to be so certified and where are they located?

These celebrations should be extraordinary, especially the October 7th one. I would imagine that each of the visiting chefs would be preparing their own dishes. I personally would be very curious to see what Adria would choose to prepare for this.

This is a tough one that I'm not sure anyone else can answer for you as it is impossible for anyone else to be precisely in your shoes and feel what you are feeling at any time. Even with the water spilling technique it would be tricky to do without appearing rude. I would suggest in the future trying to be proactive and explain your needs to the maitre d' or equivalent and perhaps offer a tip to encourage accommodation.

In some respects it is probably easier to have a small urban coop than it is to have a small rural coop unless one is a farmer in the rural venue. I would think that predation in particular would be less of an issue in the urban setting so long as there is enough space and privacy. Where I live I have ample property but not the right location. Fortunately, we have enough people around with both and the time and expertise to do it right that it is not an issue.

This was my assessment as well. If these other ramen places are that much better they must be making and selling some seriously good stuff.

These recent reports are very disappointing. Most restaurants improve after settling in a little bit. Apparently this one has not, although I'm basing this assessment on these reports as the one meal that I had there with Joseph B was superb and a truly fantastic value. It was quite delicious and satisfying even on the breathlessly hot evening that we had it. None of the criticisms that I have subsequently read here recently applied then.

Here is the link to discussion of last year's Congress. The line-up for this year's Starchefs Second International Chefs Congress in NYC looks to be at least as exciting. That along with what I have been told is a fabulous new venue should make for another spectacular event. Grant Achatz remains on the schedule though it would certainly be understandable if he were unable to attend. The main stage live cooking demos remain a major part of the program, but new this year is a greater emphasis and availability of Hands-on workshops. NYC, U.S. and international chefs are all very well represented. International luminaries include heavyweights such as Joel Robuchon, Gualtiero Marchesi, Elena Arzak, Dani Garcia, Oriol Balaguer, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Seiji Yamamoto, Alex Atala, Carmen Titita Ramirez Degollado and Shannon Bennett. The domestic contingent is no less illustrious. A special focus will be on school lunch programs and what can be done to improve them. The Congress culminates in the New York Rising Stars Dinner on the 18th serving "street food" made by this years NYC Rising Star Chef Honorees. The Sponsor List reads as a who's who of top notch food equipment producers and vendors. Of course, there will also be a Products Fair. Will anyone be attending in order to witness a demo or attend a hands-on workshop by any specific individual or individuals? I'm having a hard time trying to figure out who to focus on, although Grant Achatz will certainly be a priority should he be there. I hope so because it will be an indication that he is likely doing well and it will also be a chance for him to be honored the way he deserves.

Arguing over which countries charcuterie products are better is almost like arguing over which child one loves more. Both countries have incredible products with jamón Iberico de Joselito perhaps being the pinnacle from either country. Until I got to know Spanish charcuterie better in Spain I pooh poohed it compared to Italian. Unless one has it there, one really hasn't had it. The ability to eat those products is enough of a justification in my book for a trip over there. Keep up the great work, Kathleen. The meal at Asturianos looked scrumptious and reminded me a little of the meal my wife and I shared with Rogelio and his wife last spring at Valencia's Bodegas Casa Montaña. The dishes were relatively simple, but emphasized the purity and freshness of the ingredients. I have enjoyed oil from Koroneiki olives in various blends including that from Dauro, but I have never previously seen it commercially as the principle or sole variety in a bottle of olive oil. As the name implies the olive comes originally from Greece. Could you discern any particular differences now between the different varietals available? In this topic, Chrisamirault is looking to score some olive oil from the arbequina varietal.

I remember reading somewhere that it was not recommended to overdo it with sugar-free gum/candy because it did have diuretic consequences! ← True, but since much of these sugars are not absorbed through the GI tract the diuretic effects can be somewhat different. The diuretic effects can indeed be dire!

The long and much anticipated restaurant of Max London, young and talented former chef at Eartha's and son of bread and pastry legends Michael and Wendy London, is nearly a functioning reality. Click here for Max's restaurant blog with construction photos to monitor progress. The restaurant is situated directly adjacent to Mrs. London's Cafe, home of arguably the finest patisserie in the U.S. In their March 2007 issue, Saveur magazine called Michael London, "possibly the best baker in America." I for one, haven't had better. Though it will not be open before the end of this track season, they are hoping for a late September or October start-up date. That should give them plenty of time to work out any kinks before next summer's track season.

Funny thing is that mannitol is a sugar used for therapeutic purposes. We give it IV to induce a diuresis from the kidneys. It is most commonly used during neurosurgery. I love the way Ferran Adria and Co. take elements from different contexts and apply them in novel ways.

I think that when Ferran and Co. find an interesting new technique or product they like to explore its various permutations and possibilities. This may fit into that. I loved that beetroot meringue, but don't recall having had the others mentioned.

If the daily News is picking up her tab, comps shouldn't be an issue. It remains to be seen how the other elements will play out.