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EsaK

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  1. I'm not sure if @Max Q is actively on eGullet, but I got the same UK model this week and experienced exact same thing. For example heating water to 60C on whichever speed setting on pan temp control. Pan temp reads 60C, while probe (which I checked with Thermapen) said 68-69C. Software version is 5 27 in mine, same as someone else had in this thread. I wonder if anyone else had to return theirs and what was the end result of that?
  2. Standardised sizes of pans made of stainless steel (18/10 I think usually), different plastics etc. I don't know if these are used in the US, but at least in Europe these are the standard that the food industry uses. Many thanks for doing a trial @jbates, looking forward to hearing what you find!
  3. Thanks @CanadianHomeChef! So the rim (or is there not a rim at all, hard to see from any video/photo?) as pointed out in the below screenshot, shouldn't be an issue? I mean if a pan goes beyond the rim, it should still get contact and heat? Quickly checking Modernist Cuisine, I suppose GN pans aren't the greatest conductors with their relative thinness, when comparing to for example regular frying pans. Would be curious to hear still if anyone has used GN pans on their Control Freak.
  4. After browsing the 23 pages and without much experience with induction cooktops, I wondered if it's possible to use the Control Freak with standard GN/Gastro-Norm Stainless Steel trays? I also couldn't find the exact size of the heating area, can anyone help with that? I'm wondering if it would be possible to use a 32.5 x 26.5 cm (12.8" x 10.4") GN 1/2 tray on it (I think it wouldn't matter if a few centimeters from the edges would be out of range, assuming there aren't edges that lift the whole thing too high to be in proper contact at all?)
  5. They're from Chocolate World, see here. They say "suitable for intense colouring of fat masses", specifying cocoa butter and white chocolate. Either the ones I received were "Monday pieces" (I'm quite sure the yellow one is actually, as it's completely useless as the colour pigments have broken from the oil) or these are not really that great with CB or chocolate. Nor would I say that these give intense colouring. When you put more of the colouring to make it moro intense, you get to the negative effects of having higher proportion of rapeseed oil to CB. I'm very curious to hear if anyone else has used these with better success!
  6. It's starting to feel more like @pastrygirl had the correct hunch. I'll ask the manufacturer and see what they'll say. I also got some powdered white from Pavoni. Mixed it with cocoa butter and painted some molds yesterday. Much more vivid color and none of those circles.
  7. Jim, you've really taken testing to a whole another level 😄I'll see what I can do but as said, please don't hold your breath. I wouldn't bet on myself being able to solve the peach PdF matter. Jams and jellies are made here, sure, but I guess people use something else to make them? Grocery stores for example carry pouches, some of which have carrageenan, some xanthan etc as the jellying or jamming agent. There's also one that has pectin, but it also has already sugar, apple acid, natrium benzoate and benzoate-acid in it. I think I'll just order it online sometime so I get pure pectin and don't have to guess the amounts. A simple agar "PdF" made with peach puree, little dextrose and lime juice already shows that you need something to punch up the peach flavor, as Jim and Kerry suggest.
  8. Yep, I'm not expecting much from the peach PdF, but one reason to try to reduce sweetness is to see whether even the more subtle fruits could work better. Unlikely that I'll figure this out! Pectin seems to be very hard to find over here so we'll see when I get to that experiment, but will report back nonetheless!
  9. I don't have anything specific in mind, thought the readings given by @Jim D. earlier in this thread made me hesitant, when combined with the willingness to try make something more fruity and less sugary tasting. If it's possible to achieve a PdF like candy that tastes much fruitier, uses less sugar and has the same or better shelf life is interesting. I've got some peach puree, citric acid and dextrose. Just need to track down pectin and will expirement and see how it turns out. Thought about trying with agar but I guess that's going to be a different texture etc.
  10. Interesting variations in terms of availability and pricing of such a thing as sugar. Certainly understandable that you've had your fill of PdF experiments! With the sorbitol replacement and added dried fruits, were you happy with the fruit flavor and level of sweetness, or were you hoping for it to be further reduced?
  11. That's my understanding as well, 75% the sweetness of sucrose for dextrose. No absolute objection per se on sorbitol, though dextrose is much much easier to get and seems to be considerably more affordable. I think there may be some issues with sorbitol if added in bigger quantities too, as it's labelled as "laxative" so you may not really want too much of the stuff in a PdF. At least in Finland, if you have over 10% of sugar alcohols (which sorbitol is) in a product, you even need to say on the label that "too much use may result in laxative effects". So my thinking was, how about replacing a larger percentage of sucrose with the stuff that is easily available, instead of a smaller percentage with stuff that is not as easily available. You haven't happened to run any aW tests with powdered dextrose when used in PdFs?
  12. Been going through this and other pate de fruit threads here. @Jim D. experiments and reports are extremely helpful and much appreciated. 🙏 I was wondering, for shelf life's sake, what would happen if you replaced for example 50% (or something along those lines, however much is needed for better shelf life) of the regular sugar with, say, dextrose? I'd think that would help with aW and shelf life, and also make it somewhat less sweet. Any gaps in that logic or something that makes it a bad idea? Obviously there are other sugars that are less sweet than regular sucrose, but I guess that'd be the first choice before going into the E-number territory.
  13. Thanks for all the replies and thoughts everyone! I shall investigate the temps of the CCBs more closely. The CW colors are not solid at room temp but liquid, since they are mostly rapeseed oil. For example yellow has rapeseed oil, coloring E100, thickener E1520 and soy lecithin as emulsifier. With this limited experience, I wouldn't really recommend these CW liposoluble colors to anyone. Much better choices out there, and you don't really seem to gain anything by going with these I'm afraid.
  14. Tried to find discussions on this but couldn't find, so here goes. I haven't been able to produce full molds where all 32 pieces fall out, or even close really. It's been a play between banging the mold onto a table, putting it into the fridge, flexing the mold, and then banging some more to get the pieces out. I think it was @teonzo who has been saying that polycarbonate molds shouldn't be put into the freezer. I've avoided that to not damage the molds, but I'm wondering if it's really good to bang them onto a table either, or the bit of flexing one may do to get pieces out? Do those things really damage the molds or is it something they can handle for years?
  15. I've been playing around with Chocolate World colors, some success and some less. One peculiar thing I've gotten a few times is this sort of shaded ring around the color. Anyone have any ideas as to what may be causing that? I'm not entirely sure but I think I may have had that happen only with the tablets, so I'm wondering if it could be related to the latent heat of crystallisation matter? I'm mixing the color into cocoa butter, which I temper with CB silk before applying to molds. On a separate note, are you all using colors or colored cocoa butters without any other fats present? These CW colors are rapeseed oil based, and I'm wondering if it'd be much better to be using ones in some other form (without some other fat intervening) if mixing your own? I think next time I think I'll try Power Flowers. Does anyone have experience with them? What's the "filler" ingredient in them, or am I delusional in thinking the filler matters at all really? Also a big thank you once again for all the help and discussions that have been going on here over the years, immensely helpful.
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