alacarte

The Boston Globe Digest is here for Wednesday, Sept. 3. Oh, fudge. By Andrea Pyenson, Globe Correspondent Plus recipes for: Chocolate fudge Mamie Eisenhower's fudge (includes marshmallow fluff!) What's in that wrap? The answer is a touch away By Galen Moore, Globe Correspondent Raising the raw bar By Alison Arnett, Globe Staff And, if you really, truly haven't had enough of Rocco's: The reality behind 'The Restaurant' By Andrea Pyenson, Globe Correspondent

The only German restaurant I know is Rolf's, on 3rd Ave & (I think?) 20th Street. They've tried to replicate a biergarten inside, it's attractive. Menu includes lots of schnitzels, wursts, herring rollmops. I thought the food was kind of so-so, but it's not often I get to try spaetzel.

I don't know if this will clear up the one star/two star issue, but they address the this issue in an article recently handed to me called Who is William Grimes? Thanks, that's helpful. Where did the "Who is Grimes" article appear? Would love to read the rest of it. I did see recently a "Who is Eric Asimov" piece, but it was kind of useless. Have any restaurants ever received no stars at all? And if they don't merit any stars, do they just not publish the review?

Not necessarily. Many -- maybe even most -- places partially cook their risotto, and just finish it fairly quickly at service. At least one four-star and a highly authentic Italian, among others in whose kitchen's I've worked or trailed. How did it compare to the risotto at, say, Artisanal, or some other place? Funny how that dish has entered the international -- not just Italian -- vocabulary; I had a really good version recently at Thalassa! (Maybe risotto deserves its own thread, if there isn't yet one??) Suzanne, that's interesting to know about risotto. At what step do they stop cooking it in the pre-prep? Just before most of the broth is absorbed into the rice? Or do they "reconstitute" it just prior to serving? I LOVE risotto, and consider it an acid test of how good a restaurant is. I also find it a big pain in the butt to prepare for myself, so I'm delighted to have someone else make it for me. I hate rice pudding, though. I've never tried Thalassa's risotto, but will have to do that to make the comparison.

Just read the review -- one star? Interesting how we had very different interpretations -- I'm surprised that he says "diners are more likely to feel that they're getting value for money," whereas I thought Sage's prices were rather high for what we got. And I was charmed by their dessert list, though he says they "come up short on desserts." Then again, I didn't try them myself, I was just reacting to the menu. We both liked the tuna tartare and the bass (though when I was there, I swear it was black cod). We both noticed the use of fresh produce. I wonder what it would take to rachet that up a star or two? I've always wondered how subjective/objective each restaurant reviewer is. How much weight is given to specific, quantifiable criteria (i.e. imaginative menus, appearance of the room, service) and how much is pure opinion.

Maybe he meant "puff pastry." That should be a compliment in the food-writing field.

I went to Sage last night, it just opened about a week ago on Park & 25th Street (or thereabouts). Apparently it's the same owners as TanDa, which has closed (never went there). Once this place has a review or two under their belt, you won't be able to get in, so I'd advise trying it now while it's still undiscovered. My main critique is that it's expensive considering that the portions are relatively stingy, but the ingredients seem to high quality. The space is cozy, high ceilings, dark walls, lots of artwork (which the menu says is for sale). We had a really good meal, apparently they adhere to the laws of "produce-in-season," i.e. appetizer of heirloom tomatoes. I shared a tuna tartare appetizer, which was served with a pleasing wasabi-sesame sauce, and greens with a sesame vinaigrette (which I didn't think worked very well, though I appreciated the symmetry.) I ordered a risotto with fresh corn and morels. It was just the right consistency, neither over- nor under-done, which ruins risotto for me. I can't really comment on the service (except that it was very friendly), since I know that risotto takes a long time to make & can slow service considerably. My husband ordered a black cod with a blood orange sauce. The black cod was one of the most delicious dishes I've every had -- sweet, succulent, not too rich. The only catch was that the waitress's description led us to believe that it would arrive on a generous bed of vegetables, but it turned out to be a small portion of rather fibrous baby bok choy. It was attractive, though. He also ordered a side of mashed potatoes, which were whipped to a paste-y consistency, but maybe they'll improve that going forward. We didn't order dessert, but their menu merits a look: they have ice cream sandwiches, chocolate chip cookies, chocolate fondue, pound cake with roasted peaches. Kind of unusual and comfort food-driven. Their cocktails were interesting too -- vodkas with rose petal and vanilla infusions, that sort of thing. I noticed a martini served with "salmon caviar-stuffed olives." I love sweet drinks, so I ordered a martini with Grey Goose orange and blood orange puree, which I enjoyed.

a little Rosh Hash holiday humor: When I found this recipe I thought it was perfect for people like me who just are not sure how to tell when poultry is thoroughly cooked, but not dried out. Give this a try. BAKED STUFFED CHICKEN 6-7 lb. chicken 1 cup melted butter 1 cup stuffing (Pepperidge Farm is good) 1 cup uncooked popcorn (Orville Redenbacher's) salt/pepper , other spices to taste Preheat oven to 350 degrees. > Brush chicken well with melted butter, salt and pepper. > Fill cavity with stuffing and popcorn. > Place in baking pan with the neck end towards the back of the oven. > Listen for the popping sounds. When the chicken's ass blows the oven door opens and the chicken flies across the room, it's done.

Do any of the trade pubs conduct surveys or other research? (Nation's Restaurant, Restaurant News, Food Arts come to mind) Probably better to seek out the ones that focus on the business angle rather than the culinary angle.

This page. It has Singapore listed for the subscription form.

if you go to Rosa Mexicano, 2 pieces of advice: 1. have the guacamole -- it rocks! 2. make a reservation as far ahead in advance as you dare. The east side location tends to be booked solid. I also like Dos Caminos on Park Ave., Los Dos Molinos near Irving Place if you like it REALLY spicy, and the Rocking Horse Cafe on 8th Avenue in Chelsea.

I think Eat magazine is from Singapore, not Japan as we originally thought. Guess that explains why it's published in English.

ice.

My personal worst spillage occurred during the days when I still owned a lovely silk pants suit, the color of salmon. I ate a chicken sandwich with vinaigrette sauce for lunch -- and Murphy's law, the vinaigrette dribbled down on to my lovely salmon silk jacket. Got back to the office, and tried to use a wet paper towel to wipe away the stain. Of course, it just spread the oil mess into a large, round, permanent stain. I wear black clothing now.

My father-in-law once upended a container of cottage cheese into his lap. His dear family still refers to him sometimes as "old cottage-cheese crotch."

Apparently, the Atkins diet is spooking the potato farming industry. From BusinessWeek:

Great pictures -- you can almost smell the cheese!

Smoothies.

...fry potatoes (or anything else) while wearing a tank top. Splatter, Splatter, Ouch. Could have been worse though.

We're quiet but we still love you. Keep on bloggin'!

I've always wanted to go to IFOCE's pelmeni-eating competition in Brighton Beach. It's in October -- I might be willing to organize an eGullet mini-outing if anyone else is interested in going.

Also worth checking out if you're into Southern food (I may have posted this link elsewhere on eGullet already): Boiled Peanuts

I love the list--

has anyone mentioned ratatouille yet? [edit: whoops, Basilgirl mentioned this straight off!] roast zucchini, carrots, and any other vegetables you please, and fold into a tortilla to make a roasted veg burrito, enchilada, etc... grate on top of pizza and bake until the cheese and the zucchini turn golden brown.

one note on the crazy/noisy/loud aspect of the downtown Les Halles location: For lunch it is indeed bordering on insane. Forget about quick service altogether. But that's because of the location -- close to Wall Street, full of business lunchers, commuters & the occasional tourist. For dinner, it's considerably more sedate. It can even veer toward sleepy some evenings. And it's a lot easier to get into than the Park Ave. location.