alacarte

It may not have the same homey context, but I wouldn't agree that it's out of place in the restaurant context altogether. Although it's not difficult to make, risotto is one of those time- and labor-intensive dishes that I'm happy to order in a restaurant because I find it such a pain in the neck to make myself.

Another vote for L'impero. I tried their wild mushroom risotto a few months back, outstanding. I Trulli (27th St.) also has excellent risotto. I recently tried their shrimp and asparagus risotto, and it was lovely.

Rochelle, this is a great blog. I belonged to sorority in college (back in the stone age) at a large state school that did not allow fraternity/sorority houses, and therefore NO CHEF. We lived on pizza and buffalo chicken wings. I wish we'd had a chef like you! I've noticed you don't talk about alcohol, which I recall to be a primary food group on the Greek circuit. Do you double as a bartender?

this may be a dumb question, but what's in saltpeter? I'm guessing it's not just salt.

This was one of the most engaging eG blogs in some time. I'm sorry to see it go. Thanks for sharing with us!

I'm so jealous that I wasn't there. 1. When does the third floor (second floor?) open? 2. Is that the menu for the new floor going forward, or was it just a special menu for the cocktail party?

I had a really solid dinner at BLT Fish last night. I enjoyed the food very much, and am looking forward to returning when the upstairs opens. I agree with the earlier comment that the downstairs is a little too claustrophobic/casual. I couldn't hear my own conversation because I was too close to my neighbors, and the music was a bit too loud up front. Atmosphere aside...the food was very good, IMHO. I ordered a sampler of East Coast oysters, which I enjoyed and thought comparable to what I've had anywhere else. I was also impressed by how well-tended the raw bar was. Every time I looked up, someone was gently sprinkling crushed ice over the shellfish. Very nice. Mr. alacarte ordered a mixed green salad for apps, which was fresh but fairly ordinary. Our entrees were excellent. The red snapper was outstanding, meaty, fresh, and generously sized. Mr. alacarte's halibut fillet was equally good, and neither were overseasoned. We both ordered the lemon hollandaise sauce with the fish, which I hated but mr. alacarte polished off. (Note to BLT: revise the menus so that it reads "tartar sauce," not "tartare sauce." It confused us as well as the customers at the next table!) The fish came with a choice of rosemary potatoes or rice, and "mixed vegetables." Much to my chagrin, the mixed vegetables turned out to be a fennel-carrot coleslaw -- and not knowing that, I had ordered a side of regular coleslaw. Not a big deal, though, since both were good. With drinks, apps, entree, and dessert (a tarte-tatin style apple pie), plus tip, the total bill came to about $100 for two. I suspect that BLT Fish has heard some of the rumblings about their service -- they still seem to have some kinks to work out but overall I thought the service was pretty attentive. I think the waitress had too many tables to serve (is 7 tables of 2 a lot?)-- she was never far away, but always busy at another table. It was hard to get her attention but when we did she was knowledgeable and very solicitous.

this is going to be a long one...Passover comes late this year (end of April). It coincides with my birthday, too. Guess who's getting a matzah cake this year. Every time I pass the stacks of Atkins-fake-no-carb-pancake mixes, I think of Passover, when we get equally appetizing fake-no-leavening-pancake mixes. And both taste like cardboard. But with all the $$$$ devoted to Atkins R&D over the past couple of years, perhaps Passover fake-mixes will be improved this year. Here's hoping. Mmmmmm....at least we get to eat taters.

I hope Russ P. will tell us about the work he did behind the scenes. How many times did you make quiche for this article? What wound up on the cutting room (or kitchen) floor? Elizabeth David wrote a great piece on quiche Lorraine, I think it's in the collection "Is There A Nutmeg in the House?," otherwise it's in "Omelette and a Glass of Wine." Main crux of the essay is that what we think of as quiche is not proper quiche as it's made in Lorraine region of France. (Remember, she wrote this in the late 70s? early 80s?) Her argument was that American cooks throw leftovers into a pie pan and call it quiche, and that professional cooks loved it because the slices were so saleable. The "true" version of the quiche, at least according to David's essay, is a deep-dish crush baked in a very hot country oven at the local bakers (not a pie crust, and heaven forbid, not puff pastry) and the filling is more fluid, best served piping hot, main ingredients are cheese (Gruyere?) and lots of bacon. I'll have to look back at the essay again.

Good luck with the demolition and remodel! However will you eat while you are sans kitchen?

It's akin to a Williams-Sonoma. Heavy on the cooking classes & demos.

Mr. alacarte and I also went to Devi not long ago. Overall, it was a good experience. I only wish mr. alacarte would have indulged me in the vegetarian tasting menu -- it has to be ordered for the full table, a practice I wish restaurants would discontinue. We had: the trio of samosas, which were wonderful, perfectly spiced, crispy but not greasy, and delighfully fresh naan bread and the cooling raita yogurt sauce. I liked the entrees, though I found them too spicy for my taste. I had the tandoori prawns, which were very good but a bit too spicy for me, and mr. alacarte had the halibut dish, which arrived coated in a spicy, dark brown sauce that unfortunately made the dish look unappetizing (also too highly spiced for both of us -- all hail raita!!). We were disappointed that vegetables were not included with the entrees -- the meal felt a bit unbalanced. A word re: the service -- while I waited at the bar, the bartender was remarkably attentive and entertaining, and I was delighted to watch him mix up Devi's potent and colorful brews. But once we got to the table, the service came to a screeching halt. We had to work far too hard to get someone to take our order, bring an additional item, and then bring the check. And it wasn't even a particularly busy night. Next time: a double order of samosas, served at the bar!

sarmasarma (I've forgotten the last name) at Pure Food & Wine. Co-owner.

Jacques Torres's Mexican Hot Chocolate wins, by a wide margin, and Vosges is second after that. Both are smooth and rich, with a big chocolate taste, and neither are overly sugary. I find Marie Belle's HC far too sweet and cloying. Haven't tried the others on the NYT list. IMHO, anything but the Starbucks "Chantico version," which tastes burned and forms a skin quickly. Ick! edit: I did try City Bakery, and found it too sugary as well. But that was a couple of years ago, possibly it may have improved since then.

Love the slogan: "there's always room for chocolate." I agree.

The East Coast Olive Conspiracy The Morning News.org explains why black olives come in cans (and on NY pizza) and green olives come in jars. Well, actually, eG's own Fat Guy explains why.

:smacks forehead: THAT'S what I should have added to my pasta fagiole! I have a baggie of rinds in my fridge too! ← I have a dumb question on the Parm rind. Do you wash it before putting it into the soup? I've seen the rounds of cheese sitting out, and sometimes the environs seem less sanitary than others.

They've brought over pastry chef David Carmichael from Oceana. (not surprising, since Livanos family also owns Oceana and Molyvos, not to mention a diner or two) It sounds like his desserts are earning the same rave reviews they did at Oceana.

chefzadi, since you are in LA, you might want to go to the Museum of TV and Radio there and check out some old Julia videotapes from their library.

It could be interesting, depending on how it's handled. Though after tackling kosher, halal, and a few various feasts & fasts, I'm not sure where it this show would go.

Don't forget lots of mouth fresheners, for "kissing sweet" breath after all the spicy food! :)

When I went to Japan (flying JAL), all I drank was that Yuzu drink on the flight. I've been hoping to buy some, but I can't find it anywhere. Now that I'm back home, I've been scouring the Japanese grocery stores but still no luck. The closest I've found are "lemon squash" drinks. Too bad JAL doesn't sell its Yuzu "sky time" drink via the Internet. Or perhaps they do, and I haven't found it yet. It would make an awesome cocktail mixer.

New York Magazine has nothing on eGullet.

oooh, great suggestion! I had tea at Lady Mendl's (Irving Place) a couple of years ago. It was pricey but really lovely, that gets my vote for best tea. The food was good, they must have served us five courses of sandwiches and sweets, and pots and pots of excellent tea. It's a small room, I'd recommend reserving a table if you can. I had a nice tea at the Carlyle Hotel, too.

I'm not a fan of Alice's Cup, but it will do in a pinch. I prefer the T Salon, just off of lower Park. I believe the Plaza Hotel still offers afternoon tea at its Plaza Court. There are also some great Japanese-style afternoon teas available at Takashimaya department store and the Kitano hotel. I've heard good things about the Wild Lily Tea Room on W. 22nd, but I've never been there myself. There's also Tea & Sympathy. It's not really a tea room and is far from my favorite, but it's always a decent option.