rlibkind

Dutch Country Meats and the Reading Terminal Market, whose owner has been de-emphasizing fresh meats and bringing in prepared foods, especially German cured and smoked meats and cold cuts, has also started selling German-style baked goods from Haegele's bakery in the Northeast. He told me he hoped to have Fastnachts from Haegele's for pre-Lenten indulgences.

They said today the new menu probably will start next week. I've been meaning to stop by since I first spotted the shop around the corner from the RTM a month or so ago, but finally got my chance today. Did the soup dumplings and they were yummy. Phil, can you described the smoked fish for me? Obviously this ain't lox. But I'm intrigued. I've yet to meat a smoked fish I haven't liked, but that's admittedly only been smoked fish of either Northern European or PNW culinary heritage.

Bluehensfan, thanks for the new post qualifying and quantiifying the earlier remarks. No doubt about it, Down Home Dinner seems to have some consistency problems, but I still find it a good place for a larger breakfast (I'm usually just a coffee and biscotti guy) at the market. I find the overall quality, for example, superior to the Dutch Eating Place (though the latter's prices are a tad cheaper). Those Citysearch reviews sure run the gamut, but that's no surprise. The Down Home Diner and the other restaurant founded by Jack McDavid, Jack's Firehouse, have always seemed to generate a love 'em or hate 'em reaction, with not much inbetween. For the past year, though, Jack hasn't actively been involved in day-to-day management of the Down Home Diner. Instead Jordan Shapiro has taken over the operation, and his management style, quite different from Jack's, has made for a happier wait-staff. I think it shows based in the four or five times I've eaten there over the past year. As for the food, the quality and taste seem on the same level as under Jack's direct management. Then again, all I've had there in my limited visits last year have been the pancakes, the biscuits and gravy, and the fried chicken.

All this is certainly disappointing to hear. Yet, I've eaten there twice in the last six months and did not encounter any of the problems GordonCooks specifies. Still, Gordon Cooks' experience indicates a clear problem with consistency, and that's a serious issue. Bluehensfan's snide and untrue remark about the Down Home Diner "keeping the health department busy" has been shown before to be not based in fact. Since the poster's comments are unsubstantiated, I thought I'd double-check what the actual findings of the Health Department are. You can see them yourself by pulling up the restaurant inspection reports in PDF format, but here's the skinny: The Down Home diner was inspected twice last year. The only "critical violation" was found in June, when inspectors spotted some mouse feces on lower shelving on the front counter and instructed it be sanitized. No such critical violation was found upon reinspection in September. The only exception the Health Department found during its September inspection was the lack of a particular certificate. In June the department found that a "food safety certifieid individual not present". That's the entirety of 2007 Health Department inspections of the Down Home diner. If Bluehensfan thinks that's keeping the Health Department busy, he's mistaken. To give perspective, that same issue of "food safety certified individual not present" was noted by the Health Department in the inspection of 14 other Reading Terminal Market establishments during 2007. Bluehensfan also makes a point of saying "It's sad they [Down Home Diner] are not the merchant in question whose lease is not being renewed." Presumably Bluehensan is referrinng to Rick's Steaks, whose lease was not renewed and whose future presence at the market is subject to a court case to be tried this June. For what it's worth, Rick's was cited last June for two critical violations: inadequate handwashing and failure to sanitize multiuse utensils. Now, neither of this would stop me from enjoying Rick's Steaks, especially because, in a subsequent inspection in November, Rick's was only cited for failure to post a food safety certificate, which is not a critical violation. If Bluehensan or anyone is going to post negative remarks about a purveyor or restaurant, I would hope they would be more specific in their complaints so the truth can be tested. One has to wonder why Bluehensfan feels compelled to take a crack at Down Home Diner but praises Rick's, whose health violation was no less critical.

The Brewer's Plate, an annual fund-raiser for the Fair Food Project, will change its venue and alter its structure slightly this year. For the fourth edition of the foodbrew fest, the schedule was moved up month, from April to March, to coordinate with Philly Beer Week, said Kathryn Hauge, event coordinator. That means it will take place on Sunday, March 9 which, coincidentally or not, is also the last day of the Philadelphia Flower Show. Hauge said that with more brewers and restaurants on tap than last year, growing attendance, and the overlap with the humongous horticultural event at the convention center, White Dog sought a larger, more workable venue, hence this year's event moves over to the Independence Visitor Center from the Reading Terminal Market, site of the previous three Brewer's Plates. The basic idea is unchanged: brewers will be paired with restaurants, whose chefs will match food to the brews offered. In past years, two different beers were offered for each restaurant. This year, with the number of participating brewers and restaurants growing to 21 apiece (not counting DiBruno Bros. – more about that later) each brewer will present one beer paired to one restaurant's dish. Tickets are $50. That gets you general admission, all the food and beer you can consume (without becoming inebriated) and a souvenir tasting cup. Designated drivers pay $40. But for the price of a VIP ticket ($100, or $80 for designated drivers) you get admission a half hour earlier, so you can attack the food and beer stalls in a slightly more leisurely environment, live music on the heated, tented terrace, special seating in the ballroom (vs. crowded high top tables on the grand hall), live jazz, gift bag to take home (along with specially selected beers to take home, too). Also, a curated beer list, different from those available in the main hall, and additional food catered by DiBruno's will be served. If your thirst extends to knowledge, VIP ticket holders can have it quenched through beer tutorials led by Marnie Olds and Garrett Oliver. Olds is a regarded as one of Philadelphia's top wine educators who has extended her expertise to beer. Oliver is brewmaster of Brooklyn Brewery and the author of "The Brewmaster's Table". Details – including list of the 21 participating brewers and 21 participating restaurants – can be found at The Brewer's Plate website. If you want to find out what else is happening beer-wise that week, visit the Philadelphia Beer Week website.

I doubt they'll evolve into another Siegfried's. My guess is the focus will continue to be on ready-for-the-oven meats (like the pork tenderloin medallions wrapped in bacon, stuffed pork chops, etc.), some prepared foods and still be a butcher shop of sorts. I'd love to see some of the herrings, salamis and hams, dairy products and breads (especially the large commercial Pechter's ryes) that Siegfried brought in, but that's not going to happen. At least there's a decent selection of brats (even if not quite the wide variety Siegfried prepared). As for "Deutsche Country Meats," keep in mind that there's no Dutch in "Pennsylvania Dutch"; it's an Americanized corruption of Deutsche to be begin with. But you knew that, Sandy! Addendum on the Zwiebel Kuchen: When I looked at it in the refrigerated case at the store, there did not appear to be a crust, like an Alsatian onion tart would have. Instead, it was akin to a German-style onion square pan pizza, with a slightly springy bread dough base baked with its topping of the onion, sour cream and egg mixture. I mistakenly expected something more custardy rather than bready. But it was a quite nice accompaniment to our braised beef, especially since I didn't cook potatoes. SWMBO and I also attacked the Wien Kuchen and Bienenstiche Kuchen for dessert tonight. The Wien was a straight-ahead chocolate cake baked as a small single-serving disc (larger than a cupcake in diameter), but topped with embellishments of three different chocolate frostings and raspberry jam. The Bienenstiche Kuchen (bee sting cake) was a firm yellow cake-like base topped with pastry cream, then almonds glazed in a light honey syrup. Both were good, but I preferred the latter.

With the Home Show finishing up today, the RTM lunch merchants are looking forward to the new convention and show season, with the auto show opening on Groundhog Day, the big crafts buyers show in mid-February and the Flower Show two weeks later in early March. If you want to avoid the crowds, stay away from the RTM during lunch hours those days! Folks have been asking for platters at Hershel's East Side Deli, so they are obliging. You can get that brisket on a plate with mashed potatoes and other veggies or starches, instead of on a sandwich or accompanied by slaw or salad. If you haven't tried the brisket, do. It's moist and flavorful, and Andy will cut it for you lean or fatty, as your preference dictates. (Andy cooks his brisket whole, not just the lean flat portion, so if you like the fatty deckel like I do, you can get it.) Speaking of fatty food, expect to see Fastnachts, a pre-Lenten South German/Pennsylvania Dutch donut, at Dutch Country Meats by next weekend. The Fastnachts will come from Haegele's and are traditionally made with mashed potatoes added to the flour, and frequently prepared hole-less. Jake Fisher, the shop's proprietor, told me he plans to go whole hog into German foods. Although the Dutch Country Meats has de-emphasized fresh pork cuts and only displays a limited selection, you will occasionally spy a piggy item that's otherwise hard to find. This week it was salt-cured pork belly. (Okay, that's really not a fresh cut, but it wasn't smoked so it's close enough.) If you don't see something, ask. Not all the available cuts are in the display cases; they might have what you want in their walk-in fridge. This week I purchased the Wien Kuchen, Bienstiche Kuchen, Zweibel Kuchen (all from Haegele's), double-smoked pork butt (from Rieker's), and sauerkraut. The Zweibel Kuchen from Haegele's was unexpected, since it wasn't a sweet treat. Instead, a savory egg-onion-sour cream pie (in this version, sans-crust). I'll re-heat the Zweibel Kuchen to go along with the Carbonnade Flammande I braised yesterday from Harry Och's lean chuck.

Can't imagine how putting the name on supermarket version connects with TL's previous desire to add RTM outpost. In any event, the "mootness" has yet to be determined, pending outcome of the scheduled June trial (or earlier settlement) in the court case between Rick's Steaks and the RTM.

All the other movie topics seem to be about food-centric movies, i.e., Babette's Feast, Who's Killing the Great Chefs of Europe, etc. What about movies that that really aren't about food, but may have one or two fantastic food scenes. The first movie with a memorable food scene I recall seeing was Tom Jones with that lascivious supper shared by Tom and Mrs. Waters. Oysters were a key component of that meal, as they are in the most recent movie I've seen (just tonight), Mr. Bean's Holiday, wherein Rowan Atkinson's Mr. Bean fails to enjoy the briny molluscs at Le Train Bleu served by waiter Jean Rochefort (who was one of the victims in Who's Killing . . . ). After seeing this you will never idly grab for a cell phone in your bag again. What other scenes (from movies that don't have food as a central part of the plot or setting) featuring food have you enjoyed?

This is a bit off-topic, but you are too quick to disparage frozen white castles. They are amazingly similar to the real thing. Not identical, but very, very close.

I made some from Rome apples a couple of weeks ago. It's slightly tart, large and holds its shape. Of all the readily-available apples, I think the Rome is the best for baking.

As Chris noted upthread, two ducks (Peking/Long Island ducks; not Muscovy) will provide enough fat to make confit from their legs and wings (use the breasts for pan roasting or grilling). I'd only resort to purchased fat if I was making a larger quantity and was also buying duck legs rather than whole ducks, and/or didn't want to bother with butchering and rendering fat from a half-a-dozen or so birds. From two birds, butchering and rendering are quite manageable. As I consume the confit the fat will be retained for frying potatoes, etc. Earlier this month I bought two whole ducks, butchered out the breasts and legs, rendered the fat, froze the breasts for later use, prepared confit from the fat and legs, roasted the carcass and made stock, and used the innards and trimmings in an ersatz version of "Jerusalem grill" (which is traditionally prepared by cooking on a griddle fatty lamb bits and chicken innards with lots of garlic and onion and various spices and herbs, served either on or with pita and hummus).

Gjetost can be found at a lot of supermarkets as well as cheesemongers. As for Norwegian food in particular, and Scandinavian food in general, I've yet to uncover any treasure troves in the area. Like you, effrontery, I rely on importing the stuff on visits to my Norskie wife's family in Wisconsin (though the town she hails from, Racine, is overwhelmingly Danish). Otherwise, there's mail order or trips to Brooklyn's Bay Ridge neighborhood, where some Norwegian stores remain amidst the Arabic-speaking community. Nordic Delicacies at 6909 3rd Avenue is the go-to place for cold cuts and sausages, lefse, cheese, canned and packaged goods, etc., with additional homemade goodies for Christmas. They do mail order, too, so visit the web site. There's also Leske's Bakery at 7612 5th Ave. (no website) for kringle and other pastries. The only place I can think where you can regularly get some Scandinavian products in the Philadelphia area (and it's not a big selection) would be Ikea. The American Swedish Historical Museum in South Philadelphia at 1900 Pattison Ave. in FDR Park has occasional food events. This Saturday, for example, the museum's Men's Pea Soup Committee is holding (you guessed it!) ärtsoppa och punsch (pea soup and punch) with cocktails beginning at 5:30 pm and supper at 6:30 pm. Ärtsoppa is the traditional Thursday night supper in Sweden. During medieval times when Sweden was a Catholic country and Fridays meant fasting, a hearty and wholesome meal was necessary the preceding night. Punsch is a strong, sweet, arrack-based drink. The ärtsoppa meal at ASHM includes soup, bread, Prästost cheese and dessert. I know, it's Swedish, not Norwegian, and as any Norwegian (or Swede) knows, there are differencs. But what the hey! The night will feature accordion music, too. According to the website, the cost is $20 for members, $25 for non-members, there will be a cash bar. They wanted RSVPs by this past Monday, but give a call to see if there's space if you're hankering for pea soup. (215) 389-1776. The vimmenfolk vill serve coffee and semlor, and show a movie, on Saturday afternoon, Feb. 9. Semlor is a rich, cream-topped sweet bun served in the days immediately before Lent, so consider it a Swedish Fat Tuesday treat. Cost is $5/$8, reserve by Feb. 6. I found these other events on their calendar:

Turmeric is used for the color it imparts to a dish rather than its virtually non-existent taste. It's simply overpowered by other ingredients used in Indian cooking, no matter the region. So, let your eyes and color sense be your guide. Its tasteless coloring properties are why turmeric is frequently used as an ingredient in prepared mustard, yogurt and other commerical foods.

Earlier this week I wrote of Dutch Country Meats' de-emphasis of fresh pork products in favor of German-style deli goods and other prepared foods, including a nice selection from Rieker's, the sausage and deli emporium in the Far Northeast. The shop has taken another big step away from fresh pork with the addition of this week of baked goods from Haegele's, a superior bakery in another Northeast neighborhood, Tacony. Today they featured six of Haegele's product seen above: butter kuchen (butter cake), bienenstich kuchen (bee sting cake, with a custardy filling, and a sugar or honey almond topping), Wien kuchen (Vienna cake, which appears to be chocolate with a filling I couldn't identify just by looking at it -- a taste test is in order!), hamantaschen, apple strudel, and jelly stiche (jelly stings?). <a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/1200744490/gallery_7493_1206_33513.jpg"><img'>http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/1200744490/gallery_7493_1206_33513.jpg"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://forums.egullet.org/uploads/1200744490/gallery_7493_1206_33513.jpg" alt="" border="0" /></a>Across the aisle, at Kauffman's Lancaster County Produce, Benuel Kauffman is now selling unpasteurized cup cheese, made by a neighbor from his two Jersey cows. Ben explained that it's used as a spread, usually on bread of crackers with some jam or preserves. I've checked recipes to find out exactly what it is, but the ones I googled were quite different, though many involve heating milk, adding butter and egg and finishing with cream. The consistency is more liquid than sour cream, hence it is served in cups. I tried a sample from Ben on a cracker with jam, and it was quite pleasant. He's selling it for about $4 a container (I didn't check the per pound price). A mushroom I've only occasionally seen in stores made an appearance today at the Fair Food Farmstand. It's the "pom pom" pictured here (with trumpet mushrooms) from Oley Valley Mushroom Farm. Pom pom is just one of the names this fungus goes by. It's scientific name is Hericium erinaceus. Less marketable names (hence the use of "pom pom" in retail settings) this delicate fungus goes by include lion's mane, monkey's head, elf abalone, Bear's Head, Old Man's Beard, and Satyr's Beard. I've enjoyed this choice mushroom sliced and sauteed, and I wouldn't argue with those who think its taste suggests mild seafood, like lobster or scallop. It was available today for $14/pound. Oley Valley Mushrooms was among the winners at this year's Pennsylvania Farm Show, as was the Livengood Family Farm, which sells at its own center court stand on Saturdays. Joyce Livengood bested competitors in four vegetable sub-categories to win the Grand Champion Vegetable Market Basket, repeating her victory of last year. Her Grand Champion entry was in the subcategory for eight-piece displays of in- and out-of-season vegetables. She also took home second place for her entry in the sub-category for five-item, in-season, Pennsylvania grown vegetables. Oley Valley earned first and second place in two different shitake categories, first and third place in two different oyster mushroom categories, and second place in the "other" mushroom category. Fair Food Farmstand can't find room for the boxes used by farmers to deliver their goods (photo below), so they're stacked along the perimeter of the stall. Seems now that winter is here, the farmers haven't been around to pick up their wooden containers. Co-manager Sarah Cain says visitors to the Home Show have sought to purchase them. Just make her an offer and see if she'll bite. Fair Food's space problems aren't limited to storing wooden boxes. They'd love more refrigerated storage space and additional selling space. Expansion into the adjacent seating area or a move within the market is within the realm of possibility (though by no means a certainty) by the peak of the 2008 season growing. La Cuchina expects Electrolux to install the new kitchen appliances within the next two weeks, and will open its cooking class schedule shortly thereafter. Edited to add last two items.

Google Map link for Bell's Market Also, I think it's the Route 58 bus along Bustleton that will get you to Bell's Crossing (where Bell's Market is located), not the Route 67. The 58 out of Frankford Transportation Center shows a schedule that gets you between those two points in 11 minutes with frequent service. Update to my initial entry . . . The veal roll was delightful, breast cured then rolled with herbs, nicely pink thanks to the sodium nitrate in the cure. Not unlike Danish rollepølse or old-fashioned Jewish-style rolled beef (though neither smoked nor dried like the latter). What I described as a Dobish-torte like cake didn't taste like one at all. It seemed to be composed of multiple layers of sweet crepes (blinis?) with walnut buttercream filling and chocolate icing. Very creamy and rich, but light in texture. Quite nice. The red pepper-eggplant spread, btw, was Bulgarian. I won't buy the marinated boletes again. They are fairly tasteless, and the brine has no bite. Probably better added to salads than eating straight. I wonder if I could cook with them?

I made another trip to Bell's Market in Northeast Philadelphia this morning and left wishing I had a lot more refrigerator and pantry space. A main attraction for me is the wide expanse of deli cases filled with all manner of Eastern European salamis, sausages, pressed and rolled meats, hams, bacons, etc. The photos below (please excuse the fluorescent glare) provide some idea of the variety. Salami Central. I left with half a pound of a sliced Ukrainian salami, a fat-studded, emulsified and medium smoky stick sliced at an extreme diagonal for a lengthy oval. Pressed and rolled cold cuts are available, so I purchased a veal breast roll, which I have yet to taste. Yummmm, bacon! The lady behind the counter offered me a sample of the fully-cooked Hungarian bacon when I asked what it was compared to others; that was much simpler for her than trying to describe it in English. Very mildly smoked and seasoned, but pleasant. I bought a pound for $3.99. From a self-serve deli case I picked up a pack of Russian-style knockwurst made by a wurstgeschaeft I used to frequent, Gaiser's Pork Store of Union, N.J. I restrained myself at the smoked fish counter, filled with fish you never heard of as well as whitefish, trout, mackerel, salmon, etc. This is the place for hard-core smoked and preserved fish lovers like me. I'll save major fish buying for my next visit, but I needed some jarred herring so picked up a small jar of Canadian fillet tidbits marinated in dill sauce. There must have been eight or nine different brands/size packages of matjes herring. The only other fish product I bought was small jar of taramasalata. Here, the jar that would set you back $6 or $7 at Whole Foods sells for $3.50. Packaged grocery goods offer savings, too. The cocktail-size packages of Rubschlager rye and pumpernickel go for $1.79 and $1.89, vs. $2.50 at supermarkets and $3 at specialty stores like the Reading Terminal Market's Downtown Cheese. An entire aisle of pickled vegetables and related condiment is a veritable preserved garden. I escaped with one of my more extravagant purchases, an $8.79 large glass jar filled with marinated bolete mushrooms (porcini, just from Latvia instead of Italy) and a jar of red pepper-eggplant spread. She Who Must Be Obeyed spent most of her time in the chocolate and cookie aisle where a full complement of European staple sweets can be had. SWMBO walked away with a box of Fidelios (hazelnut-encrusted cylindrical cookies), box of waffle cakes (napoleon-type cookies), industrial packaged croissants filled with apricot jam, and some German chocolates. I couldn't resist a 700 gram (1.5 pound) box of Turkish halvah with pistachios, priced at $6.59. Lots of different varieties of Turkish delights, too. From the bakery (just around the corner from the salads and smoked fish) I purchased a slab of what appears to be a variety of Dobish torte, $5.95/pound. Across from there was a variety of packaged breads and breads from other bakeries, including a full range of Teixiera portuguese rolls. I found a round Turkish bread topped with white and black sesame seeds, still warm from the oven. Among the items I want to try in the future are the various dumplings from the salad cases, especially the pelmeni (a Siberian style meat dumpling) and the cherry dumplings. Bell's Crossing also offers a wide variety of yogurts and other dairy products and beverages that you'll be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in town. Since many of the ladies behind counters have only rudimentary English skills (though their English is far superior to my Russian), finding out what intriguing-looking items are can sometimes be a challenge. But even if you're mistaken and find out what you've taken home isn't quite what you thought it was, it's still going to be delicious. Since it wasn't too busy this morning the staff, which can occasionally be brusque, tried to help when they could.

Schlachthaus Fünf. Love it!

I got to Fran DeBreaux's for the first time in six or seven years this afternoon and tried her fried chicken. Hands down, it's the best I've had in town. Great seasonings. Huge portions. For $10.95, she gave me two huge legs (thigh and drumstick portions), mounds of mac 'n cheese, and a huge helping of the sweetest collards I've ever tasted. She Who Must Be Obeyed went for the monster-sized chicken breast, which was moist and juicy, opting for a double-dose of carbohydrates on the side: candied yams and what SWMBO described as superior potato salad. The skin on both birds was absolutely perfect: crisp, chicken-y with just enough seasoning to take it to a new level. The cornbread was slightly sweet and light, as if it had been made with cake flour made from corn. We merely dented our servings, so at least one full meal apiece awaits us in the fridge. The time between ordering and getting your meal at DeBreaux's can be excruciatingly slow, but there's no reason to be in a hurry. Go with the flow and your patience will be amply rewarded. Good food takes time.

I've been neglectful in posting notes and news of the RTM lately, so it's catch-up time. DiNic's has given up on Meatball Sundays. Too much work for too little profit, according to Joe. Michael Pollan, in town last week to promote his new book with a talk in the Free Library author series, visited the Reading Terminal Market in the tow of the Inky's Rick Nichols. Sarah Cain, co-manager of the Fair Food Farmstand, reports in her weekly newsletter that Pollan visited the stand "goofing around with [our] Hubbard squash". Contessa's French Linens, which set up in the temporary "Christmas Market" area, has decided to make a permanent go at it. Right now they are located in the former Amy's Place stall. If RTM Manager Paul Steinke gets a new vendor to take over that space and the adjacent former Le Bus stall (he says he's got a likely prospect, but no deal yet), Contessa's would move to another spot. Under its new ownership, Dutch Country Meats continues to de-emphasize fresh pork products in favor of smoked, cured and prepared offerings. The selection of German-style provisions from Rieker's has expanded nicely and even includes their Snapper Soup, a decidedly Philadelphia, rather than German, dish. Fresh pork products represent no more than one-quarter of their case space, perhaps less. The only fresh pig they were selling last Saturday were center cut chops, baby back ribs, tenderloin, city dressed pork belly, and feet. Didn't see any shoulders or butt portions in the display cases, nor any variety in the types of chops. Electrolux, the Swedish appliance manufacturer (famous for their vacuum cleaners!) is making a push to sell their consumer ovens, cook-tops, refrigerators and dishwashers in the U.S. That's why they will be re-equipping the market' s kitchen. The kitchen will serve as both a demonstration area and as a cooking school. The school will open soon as La Cuchina and will be operated as a separate business by an instructor from Temple; as of last Saturday it looked like that had a little work to do before they could open for classes. My cooking extravaganza during the holidays was duck-induced. I started out with two Peking ducks from Giunta's Prime Shop, which set me back about $35 (about $3.50/pound). The ducks came from the Joe Jurgielewicz & Son Farm in Berks County. The Jurgielewicz family started out raising ducks in the 1930s on Long Island, and one branch of the family continues to operate a major duck farm there. Another of the founder's grandsons, veterinarian Joe Jurgielewicz, established the Pennsylvania operation where the company breeds, hatches, raises and processes their own ducks on the farm, rather than contracting with other farmers to supply them with harvestable birds. From these two plump birds I butchered out the breasts and the legs, with the breasts going into the freezer for future use and the legs and wings reserved for confit/rillettes. The fat from the two birds rendered into enough for the confit which now sits in the fridge as rillettes. The carcass was roasted, then turned into stock with a small onion and celery stalk. I used the livers, hearts and gizzards, along with pickings from the carcass, to create a variation of Jerusalem Grill for a couple of lunches. Jerusalem Grill is fatty lamb trimmings and chicken innards griddled with onions, garlic and various seasonings (cumin, coriander, black and red pepper, allspice, etc.), then served on or with a pita, perhaps with a smear of hummus. I didn't have lamb trimmings, so I just used the duck innards and trimmings. Delish.

Mister Max's directions (West River [MLK Jr.] Drive to Montgomery to Belmont) is the best bet from Center city and environs.

I've been driving by the Centennial Cafe at Belmont & Georges Hill Road/Montgomery Drive for months whenever I've had tasks to do in Wynnfield, Overbrook, Ardmore & vicinity. Today, She Who Must Be Obeyed and I stopped by shortly after 3 p.m. (It's open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., later in the summer.) It's basically breakfast pastries and breads, sandwiches, salads and the like, but based on our limited experience today, quite nice. I went for the smoked brisket sandwich, SWMBO for the smoked beef chili. I'm no smoked brisket expert, but the meat had the tell-tale red edges of expertly-smoked meat. Very nice flavor, with nice crust on the meat, if ever-so-slightly dry. I was told by the manager that they basically go through 1 to 2 briskets a day this time of year, so that's probably not enough to run the smoker every day. The brisket sandwich on an egg-washed roll with a side of Georgia-style pink-tinged slaw, sweet onion sauce and small fountain soda was $10.95; $7.95 if you just want the sandwich without fixings. The onion sauce, btw, was not at all dissimilar to the onion toppings you'd get on a dirty water Sabrett in Manhattan, but homemade and better. SWMBO enjoyed the chili, which had a couple of different types of beans while remaining meaty; the sauce was too tomatoe-y for my liking, but that's simply a matter of taste, not a flaw. As we were rising to leave the manager placed a plate with four cubes of their lemony pound cake before us. Delicious, and the lemon flavor was just right after the smoky meats. The interior of the cafe (built as the Ohio House for the 1876 Centennial exhibition) was simple: cafe tables and chairs, but also some comfy stuffed lounging chairs in which to enjoy an unhurried cup of coffee. Interesting prints of the exhibition and copies of its "newspaper". The Centennial Cafe prepares box lunches. During good weather, this would be a great place to pick up a to-go picnic to enjoy at the nearby Horticultural Center or other Fairmount Park grounds. Better yet, stop by before a concert at the Mann (the cafe is located by one of the entrance roads) to either eat in or take as a picnic on the lawn. A tad less expensive than the catered offerings at the Mann.

Nothing wrong with a veal paprikash, but you might want to consider leaving it whole and doing a simple roast or braise. I'd shy away from strong flavors; for example, I'd add just a little shallot rather than a lot of onion or garlic, just salt and pepper, maybe a bare hint of rosemary. For braising, Riesling works exceptionally well.

He's a talented communicator about things food. If it was 1960 he'd be making "educational" films for schools -- the ones that were creative and had a sense of humor, not the stentorian-voiced ones. Whenever I watch I frequently learn something (or least something new to consider), but I always chuckle, smile and guffaw.

Byetta is an adjunct treatment for persons with Type 2 diabetes who do not use insulin but do use any number of oral medications. Byetta is injected. Symlin, another drug from the same manufacturer (Amylin) is designed for use by Type 1 and 2 diabetes who take insulin and is injected before meals. Neither has been approved for treating obesity, although Amylin has such studies underway for Symlin. I've been taking Symlin since August and it has assisted greatly in managing my blood glucose. I've also lost significant poundge: in the first six weeks I went from 315 to 280 pounds, and have held at that level since. The sheer quantity of what I eat has been significantly reduced (though not my desire for good food, just less of it). The quality of what I eat has also improved, though I'm still savoring a much reduced volume and frequency of chips, fast-food burgers, fries, etc. I did not experience the nausea that others have in first starting the drug, which must be titrated for a few days when commencing therapy. Oh, the inspiration for the research that led to these two drugs was a study of Gila Monster venom. Although neither drug is made from that poison, they are analogs of hormones first discovered by studying the Sonoran lizard.