rlibkind

I concur. I found the same problem with some of Earl Livengood's potatoes a couple of weeks ago. They need to be more aggressive in pricing to move old stock. They should do what Iovine's does: make "bargain bags" or otherwise lower the price while the produce is still useable, to make up for those portions of an item the consumer won't be able to use.

Good citrus fruit is back in force. Jim Iovine of Iovine Brothers Produce said the grapefruit he was selling at three for a dollar (medium sized) was the best of the bunch, though he said the other citrus fruit have finally reached high-season flavor, too. I picked up some four-for-a-buck navel oranges, but the sample tangerine sections also tasted good. Limes continue at 10/$1, though lemons are 3/$1. Over at the Fair Food Farmstand I couldn't resist trying a watermelon radish. Not at all peppery, even slightly sweet and carrot-like. Made an intersting contrast on the plate. Earl Livengood's curly endive ($2.50/head) made a great salad to go along with that radish. The first of the holiday seasonal fish has started to appear. Both Golden and Wan are selling fresh whole sardines (herring) for $3.99 and $3.49/pound, respectively. Last year they sold for $1.99-$2.99. Maybe the price will come down after New Year's. Expect to see greater variety as we get closer to Christmas. What I'd love to see would be the Maine shrimp johnnyd is always touting; I'll have to check Whole Foods which sometimes gets them. DiNic's began extended hours to 6 p.m. this past week, so if you're craving a roast pork sandwich after work or for a late afternoon snack, you can satisfy your hunger.

In planning my next foray, I've prepared an annotated Google map, which you can find here. It includes some spots I haven't visited yet, with notes on those I have (click on the place makers to names and descriptions).

Some delis make most of their own salads, but not the herring or whitefish salads. Hershel's is one example: they make their own slaw, potato salad, tuna salad, etc., but not the smoked fish salads.

Does anyone know if any of the aforementioned appies (I'll use the old term for a store that sells smoked fish, cheese, etc., but not meats) makes their own fish salads? Most places use prepared salads from Acme or one of the other smoked fish processors; in some cases they might add scraps from some whitefish that has dried out a bit or looks less than pristine but is perfectly OK to consume. The Acme product is excellent, but the addition of the leftovers improves it immensely. Hershel's, for instances, uses Acme product, but they will add flesh from chubs if they've got a surplus they've got to move. I would love to believe there is someone out there is making their own directly from their own fish (even if it's fish that they couldn't otherwise sell), but I find it hard to believe. When I was a kid the Tabachnick's on Elmora Avenue in Elizabeth NJ (operated by son-in-law of the original Jack) used to take their leftover smoked fish scraps (lox, kippered salmon, sable, etc.) and make what they called "sensation" salad. And it was sensational.

But some butter on that bread first and you've got a composition worthy of the best Danish sandwich maker in Copenhagen. Serve with aquavit. Invite me over.

Two Fair Food Farmstand items to pass along: Country Time pork will be delivered tomorrow (Thursday, Dec. 6) for the first time in more than a month, when the owners, the Crivellaros, were involved in a traffic accident. This week's farmstand e-mail newsletter includes fascinating information from manager Sarah Cain about integrated pest management. I learned an awful lot about the subject from it. I couldn't find a link to a web archive of the article, so below are the relevant portions. * * * Fair Food Farmstand newsletter, Dec. 4-9 At the Farmstand, we have always used the term 'Low Spray' in our signage as a way of signifying that a farm is using sustainable, but not organic, growing practices. However, the correct term for the growing method these farms use is IPM, or Integrated Pest Management, and we are now going to be using this term in our signage instead of 'Low Spray.' IPM was developed in the late 1950's as a response to a boll weevil outbreak in the southern United States. It was found that by interrupting the life cycles of pests and diseases, farmers could control breeding and proliferation and dramatically reduce crop damage. The IPM program is multi-faceted, and the last resort is the spraying of any chemicals. The four main controls are Mechanical, Biological, Cultural and Chemical. Mechanical controls include the continual scouting for pests and damage, trapping with simple glue traps, hand picking, providing barriers of mesh or agricultural fabric to protect the crop, and pheromone lures to disrupt pest mating patterns. Besides scouting on the individual farm, there's some pretty hi-tech help out there. The Penn State Entomology Department even has a real-time radar system that tracks the migration across the state of different pests, called Insect Prediction Maps, it's fascinating. Biological controls involve the use of beneficial insects (think the hard working Lady Bug, who is a ferocious eater, see above), the natural predators, who help to keep the pest insect population down. Actually, "of the [more than] 7 million species of insects in the world, only 350 are considered pests," says the Pennsylvania Integrated Pest Management Program. The Cultural control involves giving your plant or crop the inputs it needs to thrive -improved soil, correct amounts of water and light, etc. The best defense against pests is a plant with a healthy immune system, so to speak. The spraying of chemicals is mandated to be the last control, and all non-toxic methods have to have been exhausted before the use of any herbicide or pesticide. Once chemicals are introduced, they have to be done so in stages, starting with the least toxic option, and then gaining in strength. Though there is currently no certification that growers are required to have as IPM practitioners, they do keep their own records. At the bottom of this email you can read a quick interview I did with Ben Wenk, of Three Springs Fruit Farm, about his experiences with IPM. IPM is not just practiced in agricultural production either, but also in decorative landscaping, on municipal lands and by home gardeners. It gives the grower many tools that are environmentally sensitive, but does not tie them to strictly organic methods should a grower feel he is in danger of loosing his crop to infestation or disease. We're proud to offer many products that are sustainably raised using IPM methods, and hope that you appreciate our new, more accurate labeling. Sarah Cain interviews farmer Ben Wenk about IPM Sarah: Could you give me a few quotes about some of the methods you use within the program? Ben: Gladly. We strive to be able to look our customers in the eye and confidently and truthfully tell them that we grow everything in a responsible and sustainable way. And what this means specifically is practices like extensive monitoring of disease and insects (one of my jobs on the farm). We sync my findings with models of the lifecycles of the pests that affect our crops so that our sprays are as few as possible and as effective as possible (we can wait till populations are most vulnerable). In regards to what we spray, our first choice would be a product that uses more environmentally friendly or "soft" modes of action. A mode of action is the chemistry term for what is eliminating the pest. Older products (and usually cheaper products) are simply neurotoxins and will affect all of the members of the agroecosystem. When such a product is available, we'll use a product that will affect the morphology or fecundity of a specific organism that's a pest of our crop. In other words, if we detect a large population of Tufted Apple Budmoth, we have a product that will keep its mouthparts from forming – problem solved, they can't eat our apples, they're eliminated while all the other members of the ecosystem thrive (including the ones who are natural enemies of the moth and who will tolerate the application and be abundant when the moth population rebounds – biological control!) We also work hand in hand with research in innovative and sustainable research being done at Penn State, working as a cooperating grower in a few of their experiments. One project is devoted to studying the area-wide effects of what's called "mating disruption". This pest control disperses naturally-occurring insect sex pheromones all over the orchards, causing the male moths to be very "confused" and unable to mate. No mating = no moths. No spraying = win, win. After all, spraying is costly and time-consuming, and if it were all the same to us, we wouldn't do it. However, the eastern U.S. climate all but requires that we must spray (rain = rot). Sarah: Who do you show your records to? Ben: All of our processing fruit buyers receive our spray records and our larger, local wholesale accounts do as well. We stand behind what spraying we do (see above). Sarah: What are some of the challenges your orchard has faced over the last few years? Ben: We've been fortunate to have had a consistent pool of labor so far, but that's certainly the biggest challenge that awaits not only us, but everyone in American agriculture. Our fields were quarantined as part of the state and federal program to quarantine the Plum Pox virus (PPV). Plum pox is a virus that causes a fruit finish problem in some stone fruits (peaches, plums, nectarines, etc.) but poses no threat to human health. I actually had a job testing imported Chilean stone fruits for PPV as an undergrad, so I'm particularly familiar with it. It's a very significant pest in Europe and there is no treatment. PPV was found in a neighbor's orchard and this prevented us from planting new peach trees for a number of years (when we really wanted to be planting peach trees). That's just one example – this job is a new challenge every day. Edited to fix links

Only seven vendors braved the weather today at Head House Square: one baker, three produce sellers, a coffee seller, a confectioner and one other I can't recall. I was glad to see the baker, Versailles; they make the most authentic baguettes around, and their pastries ain't chopped liver, either. Market Manager Nicky Uy expects a more complete roster next Sunday and other Sundays through Dec. 23.

RTM's Paul Steinke believes the addition of the model train display in the terminal's headhouse, organized by the RTM, boosts overall traffic at the market itself. Bill Kingsley, who was a leader in efforts to preserve the market in the 1980s when its existence was threatened by the then-proposed convention center died last week. Steinke said he was a regular visitor at the market until he took ill. Kingsley was 73. To my mind, the building of the convention center has been a mixed blessing for the RTM. The push to build the center directly led to the availability of funds to rehabilitate the market (before the rebuilding water leaked from the trainshed above and puddled all over the market floor, among other significant structural problems), and the presence of conventineers has provided a good source of revenue for many of the merchants; at the same time, this has created pressure for more lunch stands and trinket-sellers rather than the market's traditional vendor base of butchers, bakers, fish mongers, cheese mongers and produce sellers and other fresh food purveyors. The convention center's impact on Center City, including the Reading Terminal Market, will be explored by reporter Tom Belden in an Inquirer article in the near future. RTM Briefs It's not exactly margarita weather, but this was the week to buy limes at Iovine Brothers Produce: 10 for a buck. Recently they've been three for a buck . . . . I'm still waiting for the expanded variety of seafood to start showing up for the holiday among the fish mongers . . . . Stephen Starr stopped by Hershel's and proclaimed the corned beef sandwich the best he's ever had. He instructed five of his chefs to stop there to learn how to make a proper sandwich. (If they add it to the menu at Jones, it might hurt Kibbitz across the street.) . . . . Hershel's expects to start carrying Gus's pickles and kraut this week or next . . . . Amy's is open at the new location, and nearly half a dozen stalls have replaced it and other relocated vendor to form a holiday market selling gift item through the holidays. They include The Clay Place (pottery), Desert Designs (Egyptian imports), Contessa's French Linens, Jootz (glass giftware and pet beds), Nimba Traders (decor items from Indonesia and Thailand), and Siberia Creations (birch bark boxes, etc.) . . . . Charles Giunta of Giunta's Prime Shop is complaining that he's having difficulty selling veal because not enough people are willing to pay the price he needs to carry it . . . . DiNic's probably will extend its hours to 6 p.m. weekdays this week . . . . Hendricks Farm and Griggstown Quail Farm didn't make it to Headhouse Square this week, but you can find their cheese and pot pies, respectively, at the Fair Food Farmstand, which is open every day but Monday at the RTM . . . .

I stayed for the book signing and he signed both the copy of his new book, and (though he certianly didn't have to) my copy of the 30-year-old, out-of-print "Provincetown Seafood Cookbook" by Howard Mitcham, the dude who hired him in Provincetown. Yippee! True, but it's had to expect much more of an author at the rump-end of a grueling book tour. He's basically been on the road for three weeks and this was his last stop on the book-tour gig. I mean, how enjoyable can it be to answer the same questions every time, then sit and smile for 75 or 90 minutes signing books? When he was asked a Philly-centric question, he was up-front and honest, saying he really didnt' know enough to have an opinion (other than a love a cheesesteaks; the poor boy really needs to taste a roast pork italian).

Uh, is this place a front for something entirely different?

Add Giunta's Prime Shop to the Reading Terminal Market vendors who sell rabbits.

Found some Trimbach Franboise and Clear Creek Kirschwasser at two shops in Cherry Hill/Pennsauken in South Jersey. But I've noted for the future your excellent recommendation, Bob.

Many of Hendrick's cheeses are available at the Fair Food Farmstand at the RTM, which is open Tuesday-Sunday. Edited to correct days of operation for Fair Food Farmstand

That five-year lease commitment rumor for Hendricks, Olde Earth Farm or any other daystall vendor is b.s. They would be offered day rates, since they wouldn't be there every day. And day rates do not involve long-term lease obligations. Livengood pays a day rate, as would any other farmer/artisan food-maker who wasn't there fulltime. (If you prorated the day rates on an annual basis, they'd be higher than what a merchant with a lease agreement pays, but then, the daystall operator is only there two days a week, tops.) I would expect there would have to be some additional fees paid to the RTM if space for a refrigerator was required, even if only in a storage area, but it wouldn't be anything to break the bank. RTM management is keen to bring in more direct sellers like Earl Livengood, Hendricks and Olde Earth, and to make that happen they want to structure deals that makes it worthwhile for such sellers. For full-time vendors a firm lease agreement is a necessity, but not for farmstands. Even the Fair Food Farmstand gets a break compared to other vendors with full-time, permanent stalls. The market is committed to doing whatever it can to bring in more food sold directly by the grower/maker. My guess is the five-year rumor is because that's probably the term of the standard lease agreement for the permanent vendors. That's not the case for those who sell from tables or less-permanent venues within the market.

Thanks, everyone. Just got back from Cherry Hill and discovered (the hard way) that Corkscrewed was gone. Too bad: a few years back I picked up some nice French dessert wine there. Over at Roger Wilco their selection was scattered at various spots throughout the store. Mostly grappa. I'll have to go back to try some of that cheap Macedonian wine! Over at Joe Canal's all they had was the 750ml Schladerer pear brandy (with or without pear). I would up purchasing a 375ml of Trimbach Framboise ($16.99) at Wine Legend on Rt. 70 (the former Buy Rite) and 375ml of Clear Creek Kirschwasser ($22.99) at Canal's Discount on Rt. 38 in Pennsauken.

Anyone have a recommendation for a South Jersey (Cherry Hill or other area close to Center City Philadelphia) liquor store that carries any sort of interesting eau de vie selection beyond Slivowitz? Very little is available through the Pa LCB - even the special orders selection is thin.

Anyone have a recommendation for a South Jersey (Cherry Hill or other area close to Center City Philadelphia) liquor store that carries any sort of interesting eau de vie selection beyond Slivowitz?

Don't fret. They'll all be salad green with envy.

The cremini is just the baby version of portobello, but both are of the same genus and species as is the common domestic button mushroom, agaricus bisporus. The portobello is just a larger, older version of the cremini. The porcini is a different animal (well, fungus) altogether: it's a bolete mushroom . Boletes, which come in many different varieties though porcini is the only one you usually see in stores, lacks the gills found on the underside of the mushroom cap. Instead it has thick, spongelike tube layer on the underside. It really doesn't take much to bring out the best in mushrooms. As for cooking the humble domestic mushroom (button white or cremini, which used to be called, simply a brown mushroom), a more mature specimen with an open veil is preferred, since it will be a bit more flavorful. For cleaning, I just take a barely dampened paper towel and wipe away any loose material. Then I simply saute in butter or olive oil (slicing or not, depending on the application and/or my mood), tossing quickly to cover over medium high heat, then reducing heat to medium and covering for a minute or two, which will induce the mushroom to give up much of its water. I then remove the lid, turn the heat back up to medium high and continue to saute until done to my liking. (Since you can eat any of these mushrooms raw, you don't have to worry about whether or not they are "done". But if you are bothering to cook them, you want to rid them of much of their water to intensfy the flavor. Finish with fresh herbs, or perhaps a splash of vermouth. You could add just a touch of garlic or more than a touch of shallot to the saute. Sometimes I indulge myself by making a brown sauce, adding the cooked mushrooms and serving them on toast points. Simple and delish. You could also take some dried porcini, reconstitute, then use the water for the sauce. Adding a little bit of dried porcini (the more expensive Italian dried porcini is superior to the less expensive South American imports, I've found) to any dish with domestic mushrooms adds a more complex and deeper flavor, though there's nothing wrong with just plain fresh domestics. If you can find fresh porcini (which in my neighborhood sell for about $65/pound when available, vs. $1.99 for buttoms and $2.99-$4.99 for creminis/portobellos), go for it. Same cooking technique. A mix of different mushrooms -- fresh and dried -- is always welcome. I'll start with either white or creminis as a base, then add oysters and/or shitakes (discard the stems of the latter; they're too tough for anything except flavoring stocks). And I always add just couple of tablespoons of dried porcini, reconstituted. I also might add chanterelles or other trumpet-shaped mushrooms if they look good and are not exorbitantly priced. Portobellos are nice, but because of their size I think they are best reserved for roasting/grilling and serving whole either stuffed or as part of a sandwich. Mushrooms and eggs are a wonderful combination. Consider stuffing an omelet with mushrooms. One of the finest mushroom dishes I've ever had was served in the spring at L'Etoile in Madison, Wisconsin: a ring of custard adorned with a thin sauce bejeweled with sauteed chanterelles, morels, and asparagus. Some of the more exotic varieties (hen-of-the-woods, matsutake, etc.) are better treated by different cooking methods than the basic saute I've outlined. A battered and deep-fried hen-of-the-woods is a wonder. I've yet to try matsutake, but I understand they are best used as the focal point of a broth.

Re: Beef on Weck. The beef's the easy part, the weck is harder. I haven't checked. Does anyone know if Wegmans sells kummelweck at their SE Pa. and South Jersey stores?

The tart apple that's most readily available would be the Granny Smith. However, should you find yourself at the rare farm stand or orchard that has them, try the Northern Spy or any of the Greenings.

The Crivarellos are expected to begin making deliveries of Country Time pork products shortly after Thanksgiving. That word comes from the Fair Food Farmstand email newsletter. Until then, the other CT products the FFF offers are scrapple, butt roast, loin roast, cutlets and various sausages and hot dogs.

For safety's sake, just thaw in the refrigerator. Refreezing in your ice cream/sorbet maker works just fine.

You may have read Friday's Philadelphia Inquirer article about the food shortfall at Philabundance, which serves about 600 regional food banks, soup kitchens, shelters and other relief organizations. In particular, they had a critical need for turkey. Reading Terminal merchants came to the rescue, donating 25 turkeys. Contributing were all the RTM's butcher shops (Dutch Country Meats, Giunta, Godshall's, Harry Ochs, Martin's, and L. Halteman) as well as Hershel's Deli and The Original Turkey. If you'd like to find out how to donate food, contact Philabundance at 215 339-0900 or surf to www.philabundance.org. Terminal briefs Something I've missed before but won't in the future: anise biscotti at Termini's, $15/pound . . . . Have I not being paying attention or has the price of eggs jumped? Over at Hatville Deli a dozen large whites cost me $2; just a few months ago they were selling for $1.50. Still, that's less than supermarkets are charging . . . . Hershel's Deli plans to bring in Gus's Pickles (and sauerkraut, too) for retail sale . . . . Amy's Place was supposed to have opened at its new location Saturday, but when I left the market at 10 a.m. they were still moving stock over from the old space . . . . The market didn't seem crowded when I was there from 8 to 10 a.m. Saturday, except for Iovine Brothers Produce, which was overflowing half an hour after opening with pre-holiday shoppers . . . . Charles Giunta of Giunta Prime Shop says he can special order goose from Eberly's for your Christmas dinner. Tom Nicolosi says DiNic's will only offer meatballs on Sunday, so as not to compete with Spataro's across the aisle, which has meatballs on the menu full time, but is closed on Sundays. For today Tom was preapring beef-pork meatballs . . . . The 50-cent apiece Hass avocados at Iovine's last week were awful: they seemed not too far gone when examined in the bins, but once opened at home the same day as purchased they were clearly over-the-hill. No wonder they were priced so cheaply. This week a Hass avocado will cost you $1.99 . . . . Among the items purchased yesterday on my menu last night: Short ribs (English cut) from Harry Ochs, braised in red wine/beef stock with a mirepoix; leeks from Earl Livengood cooked au gratin in a bechamel sauce; fingerling potatoes from Livengood.