JFLinLA

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- July 2, 2003 "Ribs are very adaptable. As long as you finish with smoke, you can cheat on the fire." So says Regina Schrambling in The fine art of ribs. Find recipes for Chiu Chow-style ribs, Maple-bourbon ribs, Triple-chile ribs, and Tandoori ribs. In an accompanying article, When soul food met tiki, Charles Perry tells where spare ribs came from and how they rose to become the "star of the barbecue." If you want the best meat for your ribs, Regina Schrambling says get them from Niman Ranch in Test Kitchen Notebook. In Matters of Taste, David Shaw decries the quality of the once delicious Dodger Dogs, as well as the rest of the eats now sold at Dodger Stadium. Read about it in Who let this dog out. In Assembled, not tossed, Russ Parsons implores us to "please, take a little time and give your salad the consideration it's due. The rewards will far outweigh the small amount of effort required." Included in the article are recipes for Fennel, mushroom and Parmesan salad; Cucumber, beet and feta salad; and Sweet onion, avocado and shrimp salad. And what would this time of year be without berries? Donna Deane gives A three-berry salute and tells how to make berry pies without the oven. Find recipes for Strawberry and goat cheese pie, Blueberry cream pie, and Raspberry wine pie. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find the online link for the recipe for the No-bake cooke crumb pie crust. If you don't want berries, how about apricots. Read Emily Green's, The golden glow of summer itself. You'll find a great recipe for apricot jam. Rod Smith says a "dry rose is the perfect match for just about any summer meal," in The one glass that goes with everything. This week there are two wines of the week. 2002 Mönchhof Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, and 2001 Lucia Pinot Noir. The neighborhood secret is this week's restaurant review by S. Irene Virbila. Chloe is "a tiny gem in Playa del Rey that's the highly personal expression of two creative chefs." Those would be Christian Shaffer and Jeff Osaka who create a new menu monthly. She gives the restaurant two stars. This week's Counterintelligence, by Linda Burum, profiles Pooja Sweets & Savories in Anaheim where you can find Indian treats. Chinese black rice is turning up in restaurants all over town. Find out about it in Restaurant Journal by Leslee Komaiko. Culinary SOS provides the recipe for Ed & Fred's coleslaw.

I remember being in a car driving somewhere with a former boss of mine (this was a long time ago) as he was describing a favorite dish his wife would make. As best I can remember, it was one of those layered jello things but I think mayonaisse was involved. And I'm sure it wasn't one of those home made gourmet mayos either. Also, at least 10 years ago, maybe more, there was a book out called White Trash Cooking with real recipes and everything.

When I was in college, and didn't have a blender handy, we used to make shakes by putting ice cream and milk in a mug and then combining them and breaking up the ice cream by hand with a fork. Can't over blend that way.

In my weeking digest of the LA Times food section, there was an article about using syrups infused with different flavors to enhance fruits. Interesting stuff on what goes well with what, and what doesn't. Gotta think it translates, at least some, to iced tea.

It's not rocket science: 1. Fill the blender with ice cream. 2. Fill the spaces with milk. 3. Blend That's it. If it's too thick, add more milk. If you want it thicker, add more ice cream.

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- June 25, 2003 I hope you all checked out last Sunday's magazine section. It was the annual restaurant edition with info on scores of So Cal restaurants -- the famous and not so famous. It's not too late, you can get it here. For this week: Picnics used to be simple, but no more. Regina Schrambling thinks they should be and the sandwich is the way to go. Find out about it in They're good to go. But, there are sandwiches, and then there are sandwiches. Quite frankly her descriptions sound delicious. To make your own, click here for Muffuletta, Shooter's sandwich, Chorizo and egg sandwich, and Roasted vegetable sandwich. Of course, the best thing to go with a good sandwich on a picnic is a beer. In Cheers for the bitter brew, James Ricci profiles Stone Brewing Co. out of San Diego. This little brewery is about to be named America's best brewery by Beeradvocate.com and is already rated the best in North America by Ratebeer.com. According to their chief executive, "We brew, not beer that people want, but beer that people deserve." And just to make your summertime picnic complete, don't forget the watermelon. Charles Perry and Valli Herman-Cohen tell you How the watermelon got its slurp, including where they originated, how they evolved and plans for different size watermelons. You can also find recipes for Tomato and watermelon salad and Watermelon ketchup. Fruit is great at its peak but, as e-Gulleteer Russ Parsons asks, "just how many times in a summer do you find perfection?" We've got you covered is a fascinating article about how "a simple syrup infused with herbs, spices or tea can make so-so summer fruits shine." Russ was surprised, and you will be too, at which combinations did and didn't work. The article includes a basic recipe for nectarines and blackberries in rose geranium syrup, and also tells you how to adapt that recipe to pair other fruits with different syrups. Think nobody gets dressed up for dinner in LA anymore? Well guess again. In Play it again, Jimmy, S. Irene Virbila reviews Jimmy's Tavern in West LA. Jimmy Murphy is back in the restaurant business after closing the classic Jimmy's in Beverly Hills a few years ago. Not the place for nouvelle anything but you will find this is "where an old Hollywood crowd that still dresses for a night out convenes for classic cocktails and dinner." She gives it one and a half stars and recommends Smoked Irish salmon, seared Kobe beef, peeky toe crab cakes, quadretti Bolognese, organic Irish salmon, corned beef and cabbage, Irish lamb stew, coupe à la Jimmy's. For something a little less upscale, There's always room at the shepherd's table. Charles Perry recommends Centro Basco in Chino for good Basque food. He recommends the Onion soup, poulet Basquaise, Spencer steak with garlic, lukinka sausage with noodles. David Shaw's Learning the ABC's of enology is a great story about how the kids at a Santa Barbara area Montessori school made and sold wine as a fundraiser -- everything from stomping on the grapes to bottling and labeling. Oh yeah, it's also a profile of Craig Jaffurs, owner and winemaker at Jaffurs Wine Cellars. It was his son's school. The Wine of the week is 2002 Torbreck Juveniles. Culinary SOS provides the recipe for the Getty Center's Cobb salad. You can do much more than creme brulee with a propane torch. Leslee Komaiko tells you what lots of chefs around town are doing with their torches in Restaurant Journal.

So I'm not a chef and don't pretend to be. I'm just one of those amateur good cooks and bakers. It's been a long time since I registered for wedding gifts. Made some good choices and some not so good choices. I've also bought quite a few kitchen goodies for myself since then. (Geez, I'm sounding old.) So here's what I've learned -- get the good stuff. It's better to get a few great things which you will love and will last forever, then to get lesser stuff that ends up unused or in the trash after a little time. Over time, you can fill in as I have done. Think about what you want if you can only have 3 pans (a small one for sauces,etc., a medium one for say pasta, and a large stock pot), 2-3 pans (again, small and large), and 3 knives (a paring knife, a large chefs knife or cleaver, and something for slicing). Just remember, with cookware price has something to do with quality but not everything.

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- June 18, 2003 Before I get into this weeks food section, you may want to check back in on Sunday at LATimes.com. This coming Sunday's magazine is the annual Restautant Guide. Not this week's lead article but, in my opinion, this week's best is David Shaw's column Matters of Taste. New York writer Calvin Trillin was in LA. He and David know each other and David recounts their meal and conversation over Chinese food in Rosemead. This one is really delightful. In Just top this, Emily Green profiles pastry chef Kimberly Boyce who is an ice cream expert. That includes the toppings too. Now is the best time with all the summer fruits coming into their own. Find her recipes for Vanilla ice cream, Honey almond ice cream, Boysenberry ice cream, Boysenberry compote, Roasted apricots, and Nectarine jam. In case you need something special to scoop your ice cream, check out Cookstuff. A frenzy for the Aussie Grange, by Corie Brown, says the new release is "absolute perfection." The wine is breaking rules and records. If you want to grill but can't or don't want to go outdoors, Susan LaTempa tells you how to do it in Everything but the smoke. This article evaluates 4 indoor grills. Sorrel is Naturally dressed for summer, according to Donna Deane. Use it as the main ingredient in a dish, not just as an accompanying herb. Find recipes for Green on green salad, Sorrel potato cakes, and Grilled cod with chiffonade of sorrel. In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn brings us the recipe for Bistro 110's artichoke stuffed with Brie. In this week's review, S. Irene Virbila profiles Rockenwagner in Santa Monica. Hans Rockenwagner has had his restaurant since 1984 but has now reworked it into a brasserie that also has a small dining room if you want something more fancy. She gives the restaurant 2 stars and recommends the Weisswurst with pretzel roll, Black Forest ham, terrine de foie gras, moules frites, spaghetti and clams, Niman Ranch pork chop, pretzel burger, chocolate fondue. Coffee tequila, anyone? Valli Herman-Cohen says "they're putting almost anything in a bottle -- as long as it's bright and quirky." The Wine of the Week, is 2001 Domaine de la Quilla Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Sur Lie, France. S. Irene Virbila tells you about it.

Im sure they will be looking forward to that! Not wanting to let a good idea fade away, I decided to announce this plan at the dinner table last night. My 14 year old agreed but wasn't thrilled by the idea. I reminded him that part of my job is to ensure that he has some basic survival skills when he leaves. My 11 year old thought it was great and asked if she could make pancakes. Hey, if that's what gets her interested in cooking, we may make pancakes cookies for dinner one night.

My kids are a bit older (11 & 14) but I still shop generally once a week. I also work full time out of the home with about a 45 minute commute each way. At this stage, it's more about having the extra time with my family. I do try and cook good, simple things for our meals and, yes, even after a full day at the office, I do enjoy preparing dinner for my family. It's often therapeutic after the day at the office. Both kids help around the house with cleaning, laundry, making their lunches for school, etc. They need to do more cooking however. Not so much because I need the help but because I think everyone needs to know how to cook. School ends next week so they won't always be so busy with work when I get home. Cooking may be a good thing for them to do more over the summer.

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- June 11, 2003 What a gorgeous issue! If you are planning to be anywhere near Napa, you definitely want to read this. If not, you definitely want to read this anyway to experience what you can vicariously. Here goes: Article #1, by eGulleteer Russ Parsons, By casual invitation only, profiles the dinner parties at the home of Rob and Maria Helm Sinskey. Russ says it best with, "A dozen guests are milling about at Rob and Maria Helm Sinskey's house -- a newly reconstructed barn. In the kitchen, Maria is working madly putting the finishing touches on the first course. In the living room, four kids under the age of 6 are howling their heads off at a cartoon. In the dining room, Rob, barefooted, is sweeping up the shattered remains of a wine glass he dropped while giving it a last-minute polish. The scene is more Ricardo than Rothschild -- provided Ricky made great wine and Lucy had once been a star chef." I'd love an invitation. Here's the meal and recipes: Herbed Israeli couscous, Herb-marinated goat cheese with little rosemanry fougasses, Summer vegetable salad, Roasted halibut with tomatoes and olives, and Mexican hot chocolate ice cream with dark chocolate sauce. The new spirit in town, by S. Irene Virbila, claims that the dining scene is heating up or growing up. She says that "Pretension is peeling away, and a new informal spirit is taking over. . ." Besides The French Laundry, and "staid" dining rooms, there are now places to "grab an informal delicious bite." Some of the places discussed are Angele, Zuzu, Market, Taylor's Refresher, Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen, Auberge du Soleil, Martini House, Gordon's Cafe and Wine Bar, Bouchon, and Bistro Jenny. Find out the details of each restaurant here. Recipes from some of the restaurants include Ahi steak sandwich from Taylor's Refresher, Rosie's pecan coffeecake from Gordon's Cafe & Wine Bar, Bouchon's lemon tart, and Chilled cucumber, avocado and buttermilk soup from Market. S. Irene Virbila also says that the French Laundry: (is) better than ever. When looking for wine, Rod Smith urges us to Heed the roads less taken. "These outlying districts have more vineyards than wineries and almost no tasting rooms (try calling ahead to request a visit). Yet their grapes have helped make the Napa Valley America's greatest wine region and their natural beauty rivals that of the valley itself, without the commercial overlay." For recommendations, read about the wines that are Off the beaten path. For more on wine, read about the patron of the Napa Valley, Robert Mondavi, in The patriarch in a storm, by Corie Brown. Approching 90, he is "back at work, taking a hands-on role in the direction of his namesake wines." Partners in the organic frontier, by David Shaw, profiles lifelong Napa Valley friends Bill Davies and Tom Gamble who have teamed up to produce high-quality organic wine and high-quality grass-fed beef. Leaving the Napa and returning south, S. Irene Virbila's weekly review, Yearning for Mexico, profiles Senor Fred in Sherman Oaks. Though rated as satisfactory (i.e., no stars), she says that "Senor Fred makes a tantalizing promise: real Mexican cooking, not dull combo platters." Best dishes are Guacamole, tortilla soup, quesadilla with cheese, tamalitos, enchiladas de papas suizas, cochinita pibil, carne asada. When you're game for duck, by Linda Burum, profiles Il San Duck BBQ House in Koreatown. Best dishes are Clay-pot roasted duck, spicy duck noodle soup, spicy duck casserole.

Here's what we did in our house last night. Got home a little after 6:00 PM. Thought I wasn't going to be home in time for dinner and hubby would have to get take-out so home-made pizza dough was still frozen. We'll have that later in the week. I had asked my child care person to take the salmon out of the freezer but she took out the wrong thing. Just so I'm not scolded too badly here, I often buy a whole side of salmon filet at Costco, cut it into pieces enough for my family of 4, wrap well, freeze then defrost overnight in the refrigerator to use the next day. It was definitely a pasta night at my house. Luckily, I had enough of my simple home-made sauce still good in the refrigerator. I typically make it in a big batch with canned tomatos or fresh when I can get them, pre-chopped garlic, fresh basil, salt and garlic powder. Some gets frozen for later use and some goes into the refrigerator. Also reheated some bread bought a few dayse ago in the oven but it was La Brea Bakery bread. I also made a simple caesar salad with bottled dressing but it's not a big brand that I really like and I did add parmesan that I freshly grated. How'd I do?

Yes. Steve Herrell, I believe. I worked there for four years. Steve's, not Herrell's. Yes, yes. I remember both Steve's and Herrells from when I was in grad school in the Boston area in the 1980's. And, if I remember the story correctly, Steve Herrell sold Steve's then decided he wanted back in the ice cream biz and so opened Herrell's. I also seem to remember that someone tried to replicate the mix-in model many years ago here in California. I was told at the time that it couldn't work because health regulations here wouldn't permit it -- something to do with the mixing slab -- but that the regulation in Massachusetts were different. Perhaps it's all an urban legend. Coincidentally, the May issue of Bon Apetit was waiting for me when I got home last night and guess what? There is a 2-page profile of Steve Herrell and what he's doing now with ice cream. I can't seem to get to the link to provide it here but I'm sure someone else can.

We generally eat out 1-2 times per week. Typically for lunch on the weekends. "We" means the 2 adults and 2 kids. Weekdays are so busy that it's nice to come home and collapse. I like to cook and, given the family schedule, keep it pretty simple most of the time. We may get take-out one night/week. We usually stick to inexpensive or mid-range places with the kids but the good part of it is that they pretty much know how to behave at a restaurant. If you never, ever take kids out to restaurants, or only take them to places where you order from a counter, how will they ever know what to do when they grow up? But that's another topic.

Yes. Steve Herrell, I believe. I worked there for four years. Steve's, not Herrell's. Yes, yes. I remember both Steve's and Herrells from when I was in grad school in the Boston area in the 1980's. And, if I remember the story correctly, Steve Herrell sold Steve's then decided he wanted back in the ice cream biz and so opened Herrell's. I also seem to remember that someone tried to replicate the mix-in model many years ago here in California. I was told at the time that it couldn't work because health regulations here wouldn't permit it -- something to do with the mixing slab -- but that the regulation in Massachusetts were different. Perhaps it's all an urban legend.

Not a comment on CSC ice cream itself but didn't Steve's in Boston begin the mix-in fad decades ago?

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- June 4, 2003 Can you even get soft-shell crab in Southern California, or anywhere on the Pacific? Oh well. Russ Parsons claims that these once-a-year treats are A gift from the sea. I agree. Find recipes for Crisp-fried soft-shell crabs, Wilted parsley, and Homemade sauce tartare. Photos accompanying the articles show you how to ensure a crisp crust. S. Irene Virbila's review this week, We'll always have Paris -- at L'Orangerie, celebrates that restaurant's 25th anniversary -- truly "a remarkable run given L.A.'s fickle restaurant scene." In that quarter century, it "has been through ups and down, but its classic setting is so perfectly rendered, it seduces visitors again and again." She gives the place two-and-a-half stars and recommends Egg in the shell with caviar, zucchini flower stuffed with spring vegetables, Maine lobster en cocotte, wild turbot, roast pigeon, apple tart "a la minute," chocolate soufflé. Your wallet may be a little light after L'Orangerie. Not to worry however. In search of late night comfort food? For Barbara Hansen, it's The serious taco, cherished all over L.A. And, mind you, these are the real deal, not the Americanized stuff many people think are real, and these are not expensive in the least. Line up and dig in: Here's where to go lists 18 places around town where you can eat well for a little dough. There is also a recipe for Carne al pastor. Barbara Hansen also can't live without cornbread. Find out more in Going for the golden. Find recipes for Clementine's sunshine corn cakes, Brother's jalapeno corn bread, and Newsroom Cafe's blue corn bread. One of the best things about L. A. is the great variety of cuisines available. If you want to try Thai, Barbara Hansen recommends Erawan in her article, They've got good taste and it shows. Best dishes are Meang kum, summer rolls, steamed sea bass, choo chee prawns, seafood curry udon. In Matter's of Taste, Davis Shaw discusses the list recently published in the trade magazine Restaurant of the world's top 50 restaurants. David says it's A surprising top 50, but look who's counting. Is this being discussed somewhere else on e-Gullet? Cindy Dorn comes to the rescue in Culinary SOS with a recipe for Justice Lillie's chocolate mousse pie. Rod Smith says the Flowers Estate is Not resting on its laurels in this profile of the winery on the Sonoma coast. This week's Wine of the Week is 2000 Remelluri Rioja, discussed by S. Irene Virbila. Find out where to Pick cherries by the bucket. In the June 5th LA Times, not the June 4 Food Section, S. Irene Virbila discusses the flourishing restaurant scene in San Luis Obispo along the Central Coast in A booming small town that has big-city tastes. No link but in "Cookstuff," they profile a professional watermelon knife, an herb garden kit, and an egg slicer-wedger. It should come up if you link to the print edition.

At the bottom of some pile somewhere I've got the old Alice's Restaurant cook book -- as in the Arlo Guthrie song. I wonder if they have a brownie recipe. I'll have to check later. "You can get anything you want . . ."

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- May 28, 2003 Okay, so I'm running late this week and missed getting this in time to make it into Jinmyo's Weekend Update. My apologies to all. Regina Schrambling starts off this week with her column Fragile Beauty, an homage to squash blossoms that "taste good, in a dozen or more ways." Recipes include Squash blossoms baked with Taleggio and almonds, Crab-stuffed squash blossoms, Fried squash blossoms, and Linguine with tuna and squash blossoms. If you are frying squash blossoms or anything else, the Test Kitchen Notebook claims that chickpea flour is The secret to deep-fried success. Mario Batali is making waves with his new Pan Pizza at Otto, his NYC pizzeria. It is apparently delicious and easy as, well, pie. Here is the recipe. Valli Herman-Cohen struggles to Make it organic, Mom when it's her turn to provide snack for her kid's preschool. The article includes a recipe for bagel chips. More about the bounty of the season in her other column, "Spring Splendor All Around." Unfortunately, the online edition doesn't seem to provide a link to the article or the accompanying recipes for Cherry and chocolate turnovers, or Wilted dandelion greens with goat cheese and pine nuts. For this week's review, S. Irene Virbila profiles Cafe Atlantic. This cuban restaurant is around the corner from and more casual than its sister, Xiomara, in Pasadena. She gives the restaurant one star and recommends the Black bean soup, ajiaco, ensalada mista, Spanish tortilla, Cuban-style tamale, papas rellenas, fried rice picadillo, arroz con pollo, Cuban flan and pudin diplomático. Charles Perry likes Tito's Market in El Monte. It's an Argentine deli with delicious spicy sandwiches. The other wine degree, by James Ricci, profiles the program at Cal State Fresno. Not as famous as the program at UC Davis, this is "the only University enology program with its own commercial winery." In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn responds to a request for California Fat's seafood stir fry. The Wine of the Week is 2000 La Croix de Beaucaillou, reviewed by S. Irene Virbila.

In and around Brentwood try the following: San Gennaro, Barrington Circle just south of Sunset, pretty good Italian food, casual, sometimes slow service so be patient and relax. There is a whole Japanese area on Sawtelle, which is just east of the 405, between Santa Monica Boulevard and Olympic. Sushi, Japanese curry, and lots more. Lots of fun places on Montana Avenue in Santa Monica between about 7th & 20th. Isn't that where Father's Office is? I've never been but it's supposed to have the best burger's in town. Ye Olde King's Head in Santa Monica for traditional English food (there's a big English population in Santa Monica). C&O in Venice at the end of Washington, almost at the beach. Inexpensive, basic American food. Great people watching for a more colorful southern California experience. Gyu Kaku on the north side of Pico, east of Veteran for Japanese style Korean BBQ. Dinner only. La Serrenata de Garibaldi. On Pico approximately across from Gyu Kaku. The west LA outpost of this East LA classic. The Border Grill in Santa Monica brought to you by Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger. Since I don't know what "fairly tight budget" means to you, you may want to call these places but none of them are ultra, ultra pricy. Have a nice visit.

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- May 21, 2003 With Memorial Day upon us, the LA Times decided to devote this week's food section to grilling. The main article from Russ Parsons, A new blaze of glory, discusses the "boutique-ing" of beef. Find out about specialty beef. Parsons' accompanying article focuses on grass fed beef. And, of course, find out the Prime places to buy your beef. One of the best treats about southern California is combining the wonders of grilling with the beauty of the beach. Find out the best locations in A barbecue seasoned with scenery by Corie Brown. Of course, you want to have all the right gadgets. Read Cookstuff, to find out about great tongs, disposable grill wipes, and grill baskets. We're not done yet. Regina Schrambling wants us to Grab a pan, and bring the kitchen outdoors. As more and more grills are being sold with side burners, Regina points out that these can be used for more than just warming sauces or melting butter. She provides recipes and instructions for Wild mushroom fricassee, Baby crab cakes, Creamy grits, and Hot fudge sauce. A good barbecue meal, needs a good beer. According to James Ricci, "the Bavarian-born wheat beer called hefeweizen is foamy, fruity and just right with char and spice." Read about it in Made for hot coals and summer days. Charles Perry instructs us to Invite rosemary and anise to your next outdoor feast. Besides adding flavor with wood smoke, aromatics can also be used including rosemary, anise, cinnamon, cloves, and dried orange or tangerine peel. Have some curry with a twist in One hot curry, from one cool summer fruit by Charles Perry. Click here for the recipe for Watermelon curry (matira). Charles Perry also reviews Waldy Malouf's book High Heat in Even the cake bears the mark of the grill. Find recipes for Chicken breasts with grainy mustard, almonds and thyme; and Lamb chops with black olives and lemon. Create your own Korean barbecue at home in Short ribs, Korean style by Corie Brown. This week, S. Irene Virbila reviews Grace on Beverly Boulevard in A nighttime drama that starts at the door. She gives the restaurant 2 stars claiming "if you want to be in on the scene and have a decent dinner at the same time, Grace is the new must-have address." Recommended dishes are Skate with black Tuscan kale and fried capers, risotto with pumpkin and sea urchin, goat cheese salad, Dungeness crab salad, bacon-wrapped saddle of rabbit, jelly doughnuts, rhubarb cobbler. For a different type of experience find out about Honduran food in Barbara Hansen's review of Antojitos Bibi located near MacArthur Park (take the Red Line). Recommended dishes are Enchiladas catrachas, tajadas de guineo verde con pollo frito, sopa de caracol, pastelitos, montuca. In Matters of Taste, David Shaw says you should wear an apron if you are driving and eating at the same time. The Wine of the Week is 2000 Nalle Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. S. Irene Virbila claims that it goes great with grilled meats. Imagine that. Happy grilling everyone.

Mamster: Great article. How go the bagel experiments? Have you "solved" the mystery of different types of malt? Keep us informed. JFLinLA (Jody)

Mamster -- I am an expert on eating, not baking bagels. Or at least I like to think so. It's one of those things I'll get around to. Have you checked out the Baking Circle from King Arthur Flour (I figure I mention egullet there so I can mention them here)? There have been long discussions there in the past about diastatic malt vs. non-diastatic vs. syrup and lots of other stuff. Here's the link. You will probably have to register but you can do a search and get lots of information. Hope that helps. Jody

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- May 14, 2003 Well we all know that Southern California has a reputation for hedonism. According to Emily Green, "New York might have better appetizers and San Francisco better main courses, but no city beats Los Angeles for dessert." Find out more in Hedonism Lives. The only problem with this otherwise terrific article is that it doesn't give enough of the recipes for all the great treats it mentions. You can find recipes for Water Grill Cheesecake, Jelly doughnuts, Strawberry-rhubarb jam, and Pink peppercorn meringues. You can also find out what the pros do in Tips: The secrets of pastry chefs. Mexican wine? Well believe it. According to Barbara Hansen in The next wine country? It's Baja. The wine tour tells you where to stop on your visit, and you can also find out Where to buy Baja wines locally. Speaking of the Water Grill (above), they do way more than cheesecake. According to S. Irene Virbila, "Chef Michael Cimarusti is obsessed with seafood and his cooking shows it off splendidly." In Neptune, meet your match, she gives the restaurant 3 1/2 stars and recommends the following dishes: Seafood platter, oysters, white clam chowder, celery root soup, hand-cut tuna tartare, foie gras au torchon, crab cakes, Alaskan halibut, loup de mer, John Dory with Meyer lemon syrup, vanilla crème fraîche cheesecake, strawberry napoleon. In Culinary SOS, Cindy Dorn comes to the rescue with a recipe for Watercress salad with toasted coriander vinaigrette. In Cookbook watch, Charles Perry profiles the newly published history with recipes of San Francisco's legendary Tadich Grill. Find recipes for Oysters Kirkpatrick and Prawn saute Chardonnay with fresh mushrooms. The wine may be dry, but lists don't have to be. In his Matters of Taste column, David Shaw says, "Choosing and ordering should be fun. Why have only a few restaurants caught on?" According to Jennifer Lowe Unplug the juicer, then squeeze your biceps. The kind of juicer you have will determine how much juice you actually get, and how hard you have to work. They are rated here. Instead of wine, this week we get a Cider of the week. It's 2001 Poiré Authentique, 2001 Sydre Doux and according to S. Irene Virbila, "Eric Bordelet is raising cider to a new level at his estate 120 miles west of Paris." She also talks about Hans Rockenwagner's new (to him), Ferrari-red, 500 pound, 70+ year old meat slicer in A slice of life at the Brasserie.

Los Angeles Times Food Section -- May 7, 2003 Last week got away from me and I couldn't post the digest of the food section. Sorry. This week Russ Parsons gets fresh with a great story about more than the plethora of farmers markets throughout the southland. He also discusses how chefs shop, create dishes and are influenced by their finds at the markets and how the farmers are influenced by the interest of the chefs. Shopping by the season is your guide to when and where for the markets. In Chef's favorites, find out which farmers are the favorites of LA top chefs Josiah Citrin, Joe Miller, Suzanne Goin, Mark Peel, Scooter Kanfer, T. Nicholas Peter and Bruce Marder. You can also get recipes for Grilled asparagus & polenta and Pistachio and mint goat cheese tart. The print edition also has a recipe for Fava bean soup but, alas, no link that I could find. Read David Shaw's Like Mother Like Son to find out about the rather amazing meal that his 13-year old son prepared for his mother's birthday! Recipes his son used include Garlic-caper grilled pork chops with Sicilian sauce, Asparagus salad with beets, new potatoes and mustard vinaigrette, and for dessert Rich choloclate-almond cake. Wow, I'd love my son to be able to cook like that. It could happen. If you think your cocktails are getting expensive, you'd be right according to Valli Herman-Cohen in Gulp! Just look at that tab. Find instructions to make your own Key lime pie martini, The Hpnotiq, and Blue Avalon. Canneles, which have been the topic of discussion on the pastry & baking page, are discussed as "the Crowns of the Counter" by Betty L. Baboujon. Find a recipe and an evaluation of different types of cannelle pans and where to get them. For this week's review, S. Irene Virbila profiles EM on Beverly Boulevard saying "it simply gives diners a warm welcome and serves up American food with flair." She gives it 2 stars. Recommended dishes are Heirloom bean soup, crab and lobster cake, steamed mussels with lentils and curried leeks, wild Irish salmon, Cornish game hen, braised beef short ribs, sauteed pea tendrils, brown butter plum tart, Boston cream cake, organic strawberry shortcake. In Counter Intelligence, Linda Burum profiles Top Thai in Reseda that specializes in cuisine from the mountainous north of Thailand. Best dishes are Larb thod, khow soy, kang hung-lay, nam prik noom, tum kha-noon. The Wine of the Week is 2001 Altavilla della Corte.