Busboy

I like Les Halles fine but if you're going to get serious enough about the food to take a cab somewhere I'd see about a late reservation at Central Michel Richard, Cafe du Park (at the Willard Hotel -- stop in for a cocktail at the Round Robin bar) or Beck's, which may be open by the time you arrive and is sure to be The Next Big Thing for a couple of week.

What is an "air check signal"? ← A wave of the hand to indicate to the waiter that you want your check, and I can't see a single thing wrong with it! ← really!? how fabulous! different strokes! i've always thought of it as being really rude...rather than waiting patiently until the server has a chance to get over to your table, it's basically an announcement to the restaurant that you are not being attended to properly. it depends on the ambiance of the restaurant, but in a nicer (quieter) place, a flailing hand motion will draw more attention than just from the server, and i can't help but think that that is part of the point. certainly though, in a busy, bustling kind of place - a discreet wave can sometimes be required. ← As both a waiter and a customer I've always found it to be not only a time saver -- the server doesn't have to wade across a crowded dining room and you don't have to wait for him or her (see also the overhead circling finger that indicates "another one all around") -- and understood in many languages. They key to pulling it off with aplomb is to 1) meet the server's eye casually but directly as you would if you were asking them to come to the table and 2) do it with a minimum of flourish -- you're asking for the check, not conducting Wagner or making a statement.

It's inarguable that BdC's chief appeal lies in people watching and atmospherics. It's not an impersonation, it's a local bar in a cool neighborhood -- a clubhouse that serves decent bistro fare. It's fun. Montsouris is more serious endeavor, which I much wanted to like. My one experience there was decidedly mixed though, and noticeably more expensive. And one hears that the waiters at Montsouris are just as surly as those at BdC (though BdC's seem strangely mellow, of late) and the room just as loud. It's a bit of an apples and oranges thing, and I would happily go to either depending on mood.

(moderator's note) This is a merger of two recent topics on the importance of pastry chefs. Carry on. If this discussion becomes specific to NYC restaurants, however, participants should consider opening a new topic in the New York Forum. Thanks, Charles

Hey - How come none of you locals are shouting out for Zuni? Overrated?

And if that doesn't work, try this. And, if that doesn't, you'll be the best dressed person in Jeanty, which is not a bad way to spend a meal, either.

Anything that is deemed a trend by Restaurants and Institutions is necessarily suspect, just given the nature of their target audience: the people who run chain restaurants and prison cafeterias. Nonetheless, before you get too upset about creeping Asian influence, ask yourself: "Was there some old Italian crank sitting around saying 'what's with this tomato thing?' It can't be good for our cuisine. Or some old French chef bemoaning the growing influence of the potato? Or, indeed, a primitive Chinese web space where a gang of mossbacks sat around criticizing the arrival of peanuts and hot peppers from 'that New World place.'" Bad food will always be bad food. Good food will be better for the broader spread of Asian ingredients, techniques and authentic dishes. The glass is half full.

Not really crab season yet and even in full season they can be hard to find in town. When I'm in the mood we usually just make them ourselves, not a good option in a hotel room. Sadly, the environmental depredations of recent years seem to have hit the Chesapeake Bay much harder than they've hit wherever dungeness crabs grow up, so blues are increasingly rare and expensive even in full summer. In general, I'm not the kind of person to ask what time things open -- I was 36 before I discovered that there was a 10 o'clock in the morning, too. But based on a very, very late night several years back, I'm pretty sure that Trio's opens at 8 and closes 10-ish, and is open 7 days.

Actually, my experience is that very few places really seat until 11, regardless of what their posted hours are. We've had Symphony tickets for many years now, and finding late eats afterwards -- even on a Friday -- has been quite frustrating. Tenh Penh specifically declined to ask us over when called 10:30-ish, and I have a vague memory of DC Coast and Zatinya closing earlier than I'd expected, as well. Central Michel Richard claims to serve until 11:30 -- I haven't been there late to test it, but I suspect they're a good option. The best food of the bistro lot, but you may need a reservation. The chefs hang at BdC on Saturdays, by the way. Fridays it's just us civilians. (If you choose BdC, ignore the wine list on the menu and look for the specials posted above and to the right of the bar. Not cheap -- $30-50 -- but usually excellent price/quality ratios). If you're not up for the bistro thing, Rasika serves fairly late and offers up very good Indian food in very hip surroundings. Sette Osteria is in walking distance of your hotel (as is Bistro du Coin and, on a pleasant night, Bistro Francais). They, too have been known to close the kitchen earlier than thier posted hours, but if you're feeling Italian they fit the bill. And, of course, if you just want some good old burgers and martinis, there's the good ol' Old Ebbitt Grill. Botton line, though: Unless you're going to one of the Bistros, call first and gauage the enthusiasm of the voice on the other end of the line. No point being rushed through a meal because the host was more enthusiastic than the kitchen staff. ← Busboy, you've absolutely hit on my concerns. There is nothing worse than being the last people in a restaurant where you are clearly not wanted! So, back to BdC - I'm a civilian - will I be okay there on Saturday? And thanks for the tip on the wine list. By the way, Busboy - I hear that I missed a very good time with you and your wife during your visit to Seattle. Do you get out our way often? ← You'll be fine as a civillian -- it's not like the place is overrun or exclusionary or anything. Another tip: if you want beef and fries, be sure to get the onglet, as the other cuts are more expenmsive and less tasty. (Regarding Seattle, I was looking forward to getting there this fall, but then my son got the thin letter from UW. Bummer, but I hear they take take transfer students willingly. Seattle is an old haunt from my days in politics -- Patty Murray in '92 -- and I have had the good fortune to get out a couple of times in recent years, but not as often as I'd like.)

We're staying at the Hotel Madera on Dupont Circle so Bistro du Coin sounds perfect for our Saturday night dinner. We're planning to hit Zaytinya for lunch one day - after the Spy Museum! Any breakfast recommendations? ← You might try Kramerbooks and Afterwards on Connecticut, just north of Dupont Circle. It's a historic site: Monica Lewinsky bought the smutty book she gave to the president there. My favorite spot is a little farther from your hotel: Trio's at 17th and Q. Diner food, eclectic crowd, more eclectic staff.

Actually, my experience is that very few places really seat until 11, regardless of what their posted hours are. We've had Symphony tickets for many years now, and finding late eats afterwards -- even on a Friday -- has been quite frustrating. Tenh Penh specifically declined to ask us over when called 10:30-ish, and I have a vague memory of DC Coast and Zatinya closing earlier than I'd expected, as well. Central Michel Richard claims to serve until 11:30 -- I haven't been there late to test it, but I suspect they're a good option. The best food of the bistro lot, but you may need a reservation. The chefs hang at BdC on Saturdays, by the way. Fridays it's just us civilians. (If you choose BdC, ignore the wine list on the menu and look for the specials posted above and to the right of the bar. Not cheap -- $30-50 -- but usually excellent price/quality ratios). If you're not up for the bistro thing, Rasika serves fairly late and offers up very good Indian food in very hip surroundings. Sette Osteria is in walking distance of your hotel (as is Bistro du Coin and, on a pleasant night, Bistro Francais). They, too have been known to close the kitchen earlier than thier posted hours, but if you're feeling Italian they fit the bill. And, of course, if you just want some good old burgers and martinis, there's the good ol' Old Ebbitt Grill. Botton line, though: Unless you're going to one of the Bistros, call first and gauage the enthusiasm of the voice on the other end of the line. No point being rushed through a meal because the host was more enthusiastic than the kitchen staff.

First Central Michel Richard; coming any minute, Robert Wiedemaier's Beck's -- both openings accompanied by the copious new and old media foreplay two of Washington's best chefs command. In between and somewhat overlooked comes yet another effort (at this rate, downtown's bistro concentration will soon equal that of certain Paris arrondissements) called Cafe du Parc. Allegedly overseen by Michelin-starred chef Antoine Westerman and run by a brigade trained by him in Paris (though he won his stars in Strasbourg), an early visit revealed a lot of potential -- a restaurant certainly worth watching, if not (yet) worth queing up for. (Standard disclaimer: Cafe du Parc has only been open for two weeks and thus, when one is in doubt, should be given the benefit of the doubt, except for the decor, which is boring). With two kids and my wife, we were able to cut a decent swath through the dinner menu on a Sunday night. There were highs and not-so highs. The Entrecote might have been the best piece of meat anyplace calling itself a cafe has served me (my daughter, actually) and the Bernaise was lovely. Quenelles of pike were a touch underwhelming (and immense), though I was pleased to see this oft-overlooked bistro standard on the menu. Likewise, it seems that the slice of pork belly which had spent 24 hours in sous vide before being crisped up on the grill might have used its time better -- it lacked personaliuy. On the other hand, the Bouchee a le Reine, a creamy stew made here with veal and chicken (rather than sweetbreads and chicken, as I have had it in other settings) and served in a pastry pot was spectacular. I also quite enjoyed my slab of pate en croute and my wife's onion soup, especially the former (the soup being in the top of the class around town but not dissimilar in taste and quality from others). The steak tartar was -- to my son't taste -- over-capered and thus a bit watery, if quite acceptable. Frites were so-so. I hate to slander a new spot, but it almost seemed as if they's only been fried once. Quel horreur! I wonder if the restaurant's commitment to "traditionally generous American portions" is self-defeating; none of us had room for dessert. The all-French wine list tends towards the pricy, with few bottles under $40 (when will a DC Bistro take the bold step of adopting the authentic bistro practice of offering drinkable wine by the caraffe for a modest price? Never, I suppose) but my wife and I were pleased to see a bottle of Roussette, a wine rarely found outside its native Savoy, and which goes nicely with quenelles. Service was new-restaurant uneven, but always enthusiastic. Cafe du Parc has clearly aimed for a premium niche not occupied by its more established competitors (Les Halles, Bistrot du Coin, etc.) but which is suddenly growing quite crowded. It will be interesting to see how this new crop of premium bistros shakes out; in the mean time, the competition should be good for us all.

We had a wonderful meal at l'Olivier near Uzes, just 30 km away in June. I cannot recall why we skipped eating in Nimes but l'Olivier was worth the trip. ← John -- you're not thinking of l'Oliveraie , in Beaucaire are you? At any rate my family and I had a lovely lunch there this summer, though I might not drive all the way from Nimes to dine there. We also had an even better lunch at Au Plaisir des Halles, a Bib Gourmand (4 rue Littré F - 30000 NIMES Tel.: 04 66 36 01 02) which is walking distance from the sites. As I recall I had rascasse for the first time there. Wonderful. We have also heard good things about Le Bouchon et L'Assiette, but it had closed for vacation the week we were in the neighborhood.

When public servants go bad... "A former Naples city councilman was sentenced today to undergo a psychological examination and take anger management classes after pleading no contest..."

Well yes, that is why cooking is fun, and none of those dishes you list take very long to make. I'd not 'saturate' during the preparation of any of them. I'm thinking of meals when I'm in the kitchen for 3 hours or more. re the smell thing - BRB, its not just smell, at least for me. Its all the little tastes along the way as well, and the feel and the look... so in fact all the surprise is gone. And as Busboy notes, that's not always a bad thing! ← I just picked those at random. Chili; braised ribs or pork butt; eight-course dinner for ten, (and apparently you've never used the Bouchon 6-hour onion soup recipe ), whatever....all that time in the kitchen just makes it taste even better to me. In fact, it heightens the effect because nothing really comes together until the last moment and when it does, it's like nothing you tasted or smelled for the long hours leading up to dinner -- the transformation that makes the work worth-while.

My wife, on tasting a good but undistinguished prosecco: "It'd make a decent breakfast wine." Reason #4: Uncontrolled Francophilia. If sausage, crusty bread and red wine is a good enough breakfast for those old guys at the market cafe, it's good enough for me. ETA In our household, a baguette -- or better yet, a ficelle -- sliced lengthwise, buttered and seved with rounds of hard sausage and a glass of red wine is known as the "French Trucker's Breakfast," based on an account I read somewhere of a trip through the Rugnis wholesale market near Paris. In the piece, a group of truckers, having driven all night to get their goods to the market before dawn, were described as standing at a small bar planted amongst the hubbub of the market enjoying sausage sandiches and wine for breakfast, their work being done for the moment. Seemed like an apt reward (though, I actually usually have it for lunch).

I've always thought that the best part about being "the cook" is that you get to make the dozens of small decisions that make the dish taste "just right" to you. Spicing, salting, saucing, presentation, cooking time -- all just the way I like it. Not that I'm comparing myself to a talented chef (though my cooking is better than many restaurants, that's too often too low a bar to be meaningful) but if you and I are making an omelett or onion soup or steak Bernaise or mac 'n' cheese, I'm going to like mine better than yours.

Try renaming a thread on me, will ya? I think that the children and adult behavior issues are sufficiently different from one another that the grown-ups can have their own thread. Let the griping begin! Fun as a good rant is, workable strategies for un-obnoxiousizing our fellow diners (or customers) would be appreciated, as well. Finally, restaurant cell phone usage has been discussed at length and has its own topic here , so let's use this space to discuss more exotic behaviors than the sadly commonplace cellphone addiction. -- Charles

Wait, there were cliches you forgot to add: "transient," "northern charm and southern efficiency," something about "Inside the Beltway." It sounds as though you found exactly what you were looking for: a restaurant you could damn with faint praise, in a town you see with a tourist's two-dimensional eye. Not to quibble with your review -- I didn't share your meal -- but I am curious why you are so convinced that Richard is no longer the driving force?

Dude: you travel as far as you possibly can from Philly and -- confronted with all the delights of the Bay Area -- you order a hoagie and a cheesesteak? That's such a rookie mistake. Gah -- unless you have a month in a new place you're not allowed to try food from home and pronounce it inferior. I've read your posts: you know better! (Were you just jonesing? That kind of makes it a little more forgivable. I mean, I was in Amsterdam once and blew off a hash bar -- I mean rijsttafel -- because I was having cold sweats and nightmares for lack of a Big Mac, so I understand. "Special Sauce" probably has the same odious, addictive chemical in it as Cheese Whiz. Cold turkey, whether the week after Thanksgiving or in a faraway town, can be a bitch. )

When I was in Napa I had a great, modestly-priced meal at the ridiculously charming Bistro Jeanty in Yountville, located just down the street from its more famous competitors, The French Laundry and Bouchon. I hear there's yet another Keller project in town, called Ad Hoc which is reputed to be one of those "cheap, considering..." places. But Jeanty is pretty darn swell, too. If you're feeling picnic-y, you should consider copping a loaf of excellent bread or maybe some excellent pastries or both at Modern Bakery in St. Helena, and you can pick up all the other picnic necessities -- prepared foods, wine and cheese -- at the Dean & DeLuca just outside of town.

I'm, surprised that you're surpised. Here in Washington (and across the U.S., it seems) most top restaurants are closed Sunday, and Sunday is "family dinner" day (for those families who still eat together). Is that not the tradition in London? Is there another day off?

Note, however,that in Boston they do the very smart thing of mounting the Haymarket, full of fresh vegetables and fruits, right next door to the Quincy Market. On my last couple of trips to Boston I've only been through the Haymarket as it was being broken down (there are a few permanent shops, but it's mostly temporary stalls) so maybe someone else can comment on the breakdown between local farmers and vendors who simply pick up produce at the wholesaler to sell.

I guess my wife and I are just old hippies or something. We entertain lots, I guess, but nine times out of ten the whole process is so mellow that the stress level is non-existent. Sometime between Thursday and Saturday morning we'll put out a few calls, see who's around what people are in the mood forand if any of our vegetarian or Kosher or non-red-meat-eating friends are likely to be on the list. By Saturday afternoon, we usually have a pretty good idea how many people are coming except for the odd "Denise is bringing our daughter back from her daughter's house so we may as well set a place for them," and whatever overprivileged reprobates our 18-year-old has hanging around the house about 8PM. The meals are actually pretty serious, though we do more family-style serving than we used to, as opposed to multi-course service. But most meals are planned with leftovers in mind, so adding or subtracting a couple couverts is not the strain i t might be at Joe Beef's . And we're gettign quite good at throwing in an extra vegetable or salad or something when we need to stretch. I don't worry too much about people arriving late. If I gave them a hard time, they might give me a hard time about getting the meal served late. If someone's late, we start without. No harm, no foul. If someone's early, they can get the wine open. And hey, over on the cutting board, see those potatoes..... We have enough large flower holders that we can always get a bouquet stashed quickly enough, but most of our guests just bring wine, which works out well all around. I am against buffets and eating in the living room on culinary (not neatness) principles. We have a nice table that seats 10 or --in a pinch -- 12, which is a lot more people than my living room will hold. Plus, I hate to make it easy for my teenagers to run out early: I have too few dinners left with the little bastards, they can stick around until I let them go (and -- old rule -- never before all adults have finished the entree). Teenagers are also a decent solution to the dishes, though in retrospect, finding a situation in which I could just hire neighborhood teenagers would have been less expensive than raising my own. I guess, overall, we just stopped thinking of them as "entertaining" and started thinking of them as mutant family dinners, and the stress level dropped a lot, except on those rare occasions when a VIP drops by. (Also, we're slobs, so the shhoes and crum things don't bother us a bit). Y'all come on by. It's warming up. The terrace (AKA the front porch) will be open for business any day. Shoes optional.

Just a reminder this is a general topic on customers who refuse a meal on "ethical" grounds, rather than a specific foie gras topic. If you want to discuss that suypbject in particular, we have many existing threads including: Wofganage Puck bans foire gras Chicago bans foie gras Charlie trotters calls for foie gras ban And a general look at foie gras. (The number of locked discussions and deleted posts that I urned up in my search just now reminds me to ask anyone caring to leap onto one of these threads do so politely and with respect for the diversity of opions that makes eGullet an interesting and informative site. Thanks. )