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Craig Camp

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by Craig Camp

  1. Even in the holly wine land of Italy you may find flavoured wines like Fragolino. The more wine professionals the less we have to worry about silly beverages like that.

    I thought this was made from "uve fragole" which are dessert grapes that (naturally) taste of strawberry.

    Fragolino is indeed a native American grape that was planted in Italy during the phylloxera period and stuck in a few places. In Italy it produces the same sickly, cloying sweet wine native grapes produce in the USA. It is illegal to export or re-plant in all, but a few narrowly defined areas. The high points of this variety in Italy is a nasty, and very cheap frizzante (sparkling) wine or a grappa which can be quite good, but potentially dangerous spirit very high in methanol in the hands of less careful distillers.

  2. Drinkable now and traditional style are often a difficult combination as traditional wines take the longest to develop. I would look for some 95's that might remain unsold in stores. The 97's vintage is easy to find and more forward, but not ready to drink. If you try the 97's decant them at lunch to serve for dinner. 5 or 6 hours of decanter time will open them up quite a bit.

    I would look for: Marcarini, Cavallotto, Poderi Colla or Rinaldi.

    While it is popular to compare pinot noir and nebbiolo because of their complexity, low color and difficulty to grow and make - these two grapes have very different flavor profiles with nebbiolo being naturally high in tannin and pinot noir in glycerol. Nebbiolo has a much firmer "grip" then pinot noir and little of the natural fruit sweetness.

  3. From Genova it is an easy drive to Tuscany so I would suggest taking a look at Divina Cucina (of our own eGullet member divina) or if you are thinking of very wine oriented travel in Piemonte take a look at my site listed below.

    Just wondering why you are looking to spend extended time in Genova? It is a nice city, but much of it is very industrial.

  4. 2. Why buy the 2000s at super high prices fueled by overdone press reports and bad exchange rates when you can buy wonderful 99s, 98's and 96's at discounted prices?

    Damn, I wish I could see some of those "discounted" prices where I live. What I'm seeing is discounted 94s and 95s. I guess I should just be patient. :smile:

    Many 95's are very nice too!

  5. 1. No

    2. Why buy the 2000s at super high prices fueled by overdone press reports and bad exchange rates when you can buy wonderful 99s, 98's and 96's at discounted prices?

    3. Read this

  6. In response to my request Manuel Marchetti hs provided us with this extended explanation of clonal selection in La Morra and the entire Barolo region.

    The Nebbiolo variety has three “sub-varieties”, the “lampia”, “michet” and “rosé”.  The division in this three kinds depends upon the characteristics of the vine (fruit and leafs, perfumes, color, quantity obtained, skin, ecc.).

    Such a division is the result of what men found as a state of fact from all the vineyards of the past. In fact, when they plant or re-plant a new vineyard you graft the american rootstock with the gems obtained from the existing vineyards, many times they reproduced a vine with viruses.

    From such “sub-varieties” the scientists worked selecting the best vine or, the vine that gives the result you want, and then they reproduced it obtaining a new selection (a clone).  To the new selection they give it a name to recognize it form the rest of the vines of the same “sub-varieties”.

    For example:  from the “michet” sub-variety we have clones named  CVT63, CVT66, CVT71 etc., or from “lampia” we have Rauscedo 1, CN142, etc..

    Today when you decide to re-plant a vineyard you choose from the clones that are available, and we choose more clones so we have vines with different characteristics. You will choose the clones depending upon, the quantity obtained per vine, the weight of the bunch, the acidity, the perfumes, the sugar, the color contents, etc..

    So when I said that “most of the original clones are dead” I didn’t meant that the “sub-varieties” lampia, michet and rosé have disappeared, but that today we do not consider them when we re-plant a vineyard.

    Today we choose from the different clones depending on their specific characteristic in order to obtain a balance among the different microclimats that you will find in the same vineyard, and this is very important on the hilly areas.

    Regarding that in La Morra most of the clones were Lampia, it is difficult to prove.

    In fact in the past when they plant or re-plant a vineyard, they reproduce the gems form an existing vineyard or they buy the vines from a store that gave them the three sub-varieties or the one that was more available on that particular year.

    Another important issue is the rootstock selection, but this is a different matter.

    Their selection depends on the exposition and the structure of the soil. Today we mainly use the 420A, SO4, Kober 5BB, etc.

  7. A bottle open for several days turns the wine somewhat "tired" - a minor change compared to what's happening when you cook it.

    For me, a several day open bottle of wine is undrinkable. But... I agree that 5 minutes of cooking (reducing) has a very similar effect. Opening a bottle accelerates oxidation and cooking it accelerates that oxidation even further.

    As I taste through samples for reviewing in my newsletter and articles I usually taste them over a 3 to 4 day period to see how they develop and change. Most young whites last that long without a severe problem in the refrigerator and very good young reds are often better after 1 or 2 days open - they also last better in the refrigerator.

    However some wines oxidize overnight - don't re-buy wines that do this.

  8. There's much better stuff out there in the wide world of sherry, believe me! Again, just my opinion. But I think it may be interesting for eGulleteers to hear a number of different views.

    It would be most interesting if you shared this information. Why don't you start a Sherry thread outlining your preferences?

  9. I vaguely suspect that at the bottom of this clash, there is not only a newborn personal animosity, but also an influence by a recently changed economical situation regarding Italian luxury wines. Somehow, it reminds me of the stock market bubble: as long as prices went up, the critiques were rather unheard. As soon as the falling prices set in, critique got momentum and some opportunistic voices jumped ship.

    I think Boris may be right on the target here. The stock market reference rings true. Is the Gambero Rosso trying to unload some stock before it drops in value?

  10. Victor - your playing the game of a "mere amateur" is quaint, but hardly true.

    Your characterization of Europvin as a "devilishly effective US importer" is almost laughable and you clearly have little information about that company. Europvin has no organized PR strategy and no USA based sales staff - only Christopher Cannan and Paul Sharp (certainly excellent people) cover the entire USA and for that matter the whole world for Europvin - why you even need a password to visit their website. Their massive, phonebook size catalogue of French, Italian and Spanish wines is almost brand name free except for Lustau. Europvin has succeeded based on quality alone and is the antithesis of a "devilishly effective US importer". In fact it is my opinion that they would sell 10 times as much wine with a major importer.

    It would also seem that you are misinformed that a vineyard that provides particularly ripe fruit does not determine a house style. Vineyard owners in Brunate, Montrachet, Pomerol, Stag's Leap and every other important wine region in the world will be interested to learn this new fact. To define Graham's as only being higher in residual sugar is to oversimplify their style which is not only sweet, but rich - in other words high in extract. Of course Malvedos is not the exclusive vineyard used in their Ports, but it is the heart of their Vintage Port, which is not to be confused with their wood port blends.

    I see in the 2004 edition of the leading Spanish wine guide, the Guía Peñín, that none of their currently released wines gets more than a very good (but not great) rating of 90 on the American-style 100-point scale Peñín uses, while San Emilio gets a modest 80 points and Emperatriz Eugenia a rather forgettable 75+, with some severe comments to boot.

    From this I take it we can assume you buy all your Italian wines based on the ratings of the Gambero Rosso. It is not always reasonable to assume that reviews based in the country of origin are more accurate than others.

  11. You are too humble - your wine knowledge is too well known to get away with that here!

    How could anyone with a great wine knowledge be so wrong about Graham's? See, this ratifies the fact that I'm just a rank amateur.

    Lustau's range, of decent quality (except for its Almacenista wines, which are outstanding), is particularly advisable to American beginners since it's probably the only wide range of sherries now available on the US market. In Spain or other European countries I'd rather advise other wines, but it's a moot point because one must adapt oneself to market conditions. If Michael were in the UK, then he'd have a much wider choice.

    ...mmmm - you're a hard man to argue with.

    The Graham's "style" that you refer to is as much a characteristic of their vineyards as their winemaking. The Malvedos vineyard which is the heart of the estate produces grapes that are particularly sweet and powerfully flavored.

    Your point about Lustau being widely available is another very good reason to use Lustau as a base for learning about Sherry.

    While the Deluxe range of Lustau Sherry is indeed only of "decent quality" the Solera Riserva Range contains some of the finest Sherry wines produced (at very reasonable prices as Jason showed above) including great wines like their Puerto Fino, Rare Amontillado Escuadrilla, Dry Oloroso Don Nuño, Pedro Ximénez San Emilio and Old East India. Also you can't forget the extraordinary Gran Reservas like Emperatriz Eugenia Very Rare Oloroso Dry Amontillado San Bartolome.

    Then, of course, is the very special and unique Almacenista range as you mention.

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