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Craig Camp

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by Craig Camp

  1. I think you have very little understanding of European wine and food culture.

    (see subsidies below) also the folks who made wine that suffered from dirty cellars and barrels for years.

    You must mean those dirty winemakers that over the centuries made European wines the quality standard for fine wine - a standard that still stands by the way. Try to find a great New World producer that does not use as their standard the European classics.

    "Most independent..."

    Ya mean the folks who love those government subsidies?

    What, there are no agricultural subsidies in the good old USA?

    "Virtuous"

    The people with a history of blending in cheap African wine to "round out" their Pommards etc...?

    You mean blending like the classic, Lafite "Hermitaged"? If you think top producers in Burgundy are blending African wines into their blends you are totally misinformed. To make such charges without any proof is clearly irresponsible and actually quite ignorant of the situation in Burgundy today.

    The fact is too much mediocre land is planted with mediocre vines and mediocre wine is the result--I am being generous-- a lot of that wine is crap and would have a hard time competing with any decent everyday wine from all over the globe.

    This is a statement you can make about any wine region in the world. Look at all those crappy vines on the floor of the Napa Valley (Opus for example). Where are most of California wines produced? The Central Valley or Napa? Mediocre land planted with mediocre vines is the standard, not the exception of the wine world.

    I think the EU is attempting to fix a bad situation. The AOC system is a real problem in marketing even very good quality wines. (maybe they should allow large breasted women on their wine labels!--just kidding).

    The system is a perfect example of a well intentioned government regulating something rather than the marketplace.

    The AOC is a bad marketing system because it is not a marketing system. It is simply a way for growers to enforce a standard for their brand name.

    Before you damn Europe's wine farmers, a more thoughtful approach and an understanding of history should be a minimum requirement. Most of Europe's wine farmers are small producers who are there because their countries history and culture put them there. They work hard for little money and are not out to cheat anyone. We should remember these are real people trying to make an honest living doing what their local history led them to - they deserve respect.

  2. The EU will destroy everything of quality and personality in European wine and food if given free reign. Do you really want bureaucrats to control how your food and wine is grown and made. It will certainly be cleaner, but will also certainly be more boring.

    Democracy is a messy thing. So is making food and wine with flavor.

    ...my other comments are here

  3. The LA Times (may require free registration) presents an interesting article on the most well known wine sites on the internet.

    Which ones do you visit?  Which ones do you like?  Any sites you'd add to the list?

    Pop Quiz:  Can anyone guess which site this quote refers to?

    But there is often the feeling that you've just stumbled onto a room full of men who haven't quite learned how to play well together: The posts can be arrogant, peevish, sycophantic and hysterically passionate.

    Anybody ever visit Winetalk--I believe it is Serge Birbier (sp?) who hosts it.

    Yes I have. The innovative combination of wine and firearms is exciting! Just think of the possibilities if they added deadly weapons to the Robert Parker Forum.

  4. Solera Grand Reserva Brandy de Jerez is even cheaper, and far less appreciated and less famous than bas-Armagnac. And Definitely cheaper than XO-level Cognac or Armagnac, to which it can be favorably compared.

    I like Spanish Brandy, but as it is very caramelized, its flavor profile is quite different from Armagnac and Cognac. Spanish Brandy and cigars are a great combination.

    Do they use different grape varietals for Spanish Brandy vs. Cognac? I've read good things about it; but, never tried.

    Also, doesn't "Solera" refer to the aging/blending technique they use in Spain, not a particular brand? I think reserve brandy from any company in Jerez, Spain, made using the Solera technique, could potentially be, "Solera Grand Reserva de Jerez".

    edit - added clarification

    Yes they are using different varieties, but unlike grappa, there is little, if any, varietal character that shows in wood aged brandy. What you need is a very clean, fresh base wine with high acidity. That's why they use Folle Blanche and Ugni Blanc (trebbiano) for Cognac and Armagnac.

    Solera is a generic term for an aging/fractional blending process, but often shows up in various brand names.

  5. If I was a practical joker I would serve Jim Cowen 03 Z'IVO Pinot Noir just to see the look on his face.

    I tasted this hefty wine on a 100 degree day at IPNC. Jim, I wish you could have been with me.

    Craig,

    As much as I would enjoy your company, I suspect you would have not enjoyed my reaction.

    But then, considering some of Mr. Rovani's, perhaps I would have been no trouble at all.

    Best, Jim

    No, I would have loved to see your face. I can't think of a wine less "Florida Jim-like" than that Pinot. I think Mr. Rovani might like it.

  6. If I was a practical joker I would serve Jim Cowen 03 Z'IVO Pinot Noir just to see the look on his face.

    I tasted this hefty wine on a 100 degree day at IPNC. Jim, I wish you could have been with me.

  7. The best reasonably priced Cognac is not Cognac, but Armagnac. It less famous so is less expensive and less adulterated than big brand Cognacs, which are coming close to containing as much caramel as some dessert trays.

    Solera Grand Reserva Brandy de Jerez is even cheaper, and far less appreciated and less famous than bas-Armagnac. And Definitely cheaper than XO-level Cognac or Armagnac, to which it can be favorably compared.

    I like Spanish Brandy, but as it is very carmelized, its flavor profile is quite different from Armagnac and Cognac. Spanish Brandy and cigars are a great combination.

  8. Pancetta is simply cured bacon as compared to the smoked bacon we use here in the USA. As with most things there is pancetta and there is PANCETTA. There is also smoked pancetta in Italy, the most famous being the sublime Speck.

    gallery_7204_2521_1257.jpg

    I thought Speck was Prosciutto Affumicato, not a type of Pancetta?

    that's correct - it's still early out here :wacko:

  9. Pancetta is simply cured bacon as compared to the smoked bacon we use here in the USA. As with most things there is pancetta and there is PANCETTA. There is also smoked pancetta in Italy, the most famous being the sublime Speck. The top grades from artisan producers can, and are served, without cooking, while the everyday type of pancetta you buy at the grocery store in Italy is used as a cooking ingredient. Using top quality prosciutto or pancetta for cooking is a waste.

    By the way, lardo, the ultimate affettati experience, is also from the belly and you would never dream of cooking this treasure. The finest prosciutto is always served alone as even melon takes away from enjoying the delicate flavors.

    None of these delicacies produced outside of Italy come close to the refinement of flavor they attain in the best Italian versions.

    For this reason its not very safe to be a pig in Italy.

    On the affettati plate below, from Milano's Boccondivino, you see lardo in front, then moving counterclockwise prosciutto and then some melt in your mouth pancetta.

    gallery_7204_2521_1257.jpg

  10. An amazing quantity of top quality Barolo and Barbaresco shows up in close-out bins across the country. I guess the buyers read The Wine Spectator hype then bite off more than they can chew. Good for us, bad for them.

    While I am not a fan of the 97's in general, this should be an excellent wine that is already drinking well, as the hot 97 vintage made for early maturing wines. The big issue here is, as always, is how the wines have been stored as this wine probably came to the US in 2000 or so. If stored well it should be a very nice bottle, but I would be concerned that it has been sitting in some wine wholesalers warehouse for years. See if the retailer can tell you about where this wine as been.

  11. The Asian restaurants are certainly not alone in this regard. A trip to your average Friday's or Bennigan's may offer 5 or 6 chardonnay wines by the glass - often to the exclusion of all other white varietals. The funny thing is, of course, is that they are all more or less the same wine with different labels so they could save some money and only offer one.

    Many small ethnic restaurants have no one on their staff familiar with American wine culture and usually end up depending on local wine wholesalers to produce their wine lists for them. The wholesalers have a warehouse full of mass-produced chardonnay to get rid of and this of course equals a bunch of crappy wine lists full of chardonnay.

    This is something the American wholesale wine industry can be proud of . As soon as someone trusts them to produce a good wine list for them, they screw them by filling it with wines they have to get rid of instead of wines that will match the food of the poor, trusting restaurateur.

  12. In fact I am convinced that the famed coffee culture of Seattle and Portland is no coffee culture at all, but, in fact, a flavored milk culture.

    I couldn't agree more. Although I think that there are more coffee (vs espresso) drinkers than you give credit for.

    I recently ordered a double espresso at a highly recommended coffee bar and the barista actually messed up my order. (I was watching him.) He was caught off-guard by somebody ordering an actual espresso!

    The other day I ordered an espresso and the "barista" asked me if I wanted the 16 or 20 oz. size. This is not the first time that has happened.

    I would agree that the American style coffee is generally better than you get in the rest of the country, but it seems crazy to drop 4 or 5 grand on a commercial espresso machine and then not learn how to use it.

  13. Moving to the Northwest I greatly anticipated its famed coffee culture. Having lived in Italy, I became addicted to their concentrated short shots of coffee heaven. Sure enough, upon arrival I discovered espresso stands on almost every corner.

    Unfortunately I also discovered that while everyone sells espresso no one actually likes it or orders it. In fact I am convinced that the famed coffee culture of Seattle and Portland is no coffee culture at all, but, in fact, a flavored milk culture. Anything and everything is used to hide the flavor of coffee making the quality of the espresso that goes into the mix meaningless. Often I have to convince the barista (a title they should not be entitled to) that I don't want milk in my shot - as they refer to espressos in these parts.

    Stopping for coffee here always means standing in line as each person in front of you orders a complex concoction of mocha this or Carmel that followed by a line of other descriptors like: skinny, wet, dry, half-foam, half-caf and on and on. It takes the poor barista five minutes to make each masterpiece. They seem almost disappointed when I order my unglamourous espresso.

    Because no one actually tastes the coffee here, the quality of the espressos are usually quite bad and it takes a bit of detective work to search out the few coffee houses out of the thousands that surround you that can make the real deal.

    It seems very strange that such a well caffeinated bunch can't stand the taste of coffee.

  14. If there is one thing I can be sure of in 2006, it is that like in every other year, if the subject gets on to what to call American sparkling wine, or American 'Port' or anything else, is that there will be no agreement.  At least that is true for this panel, which is probably more highly opinionated than the rest of the public. 

        Frankly, it is an overblown subject  If somebody refers to it as a sparkling wine, American champagne (however distateful some of you find that), or whatever, does it really matter?  It is what it is.  Tonight I had a bottle of Gloria Ferrer 1987 Late Disgorged Brut.  Absolutely delightful.  In our opinion (my wife and myself) we prefer American sparkling wines to French sparkling wines.  We drink both, but due to our preference we drink far more American sparklers.  (Primarily Gloria Ferrer, J, Iron Horse, & Schramsberg.)  If they are done well, it doesn't matter if it is an American sparkler, Cava, Sekt, Prosecco, Champagne or whatever, if they are good they are good, if they aren't they aren't.  Either you like something or you don't.  Let's not forget, it is all subjective.

    There is no such thing as "American Champagne" when you speak in a quality context and you only confuse the issue when you insist on using it. All of the producers you like: Ferrer, J, Iron Horse, and Schramsberg refuse to use the name. There is nothing wrong or insulting with the term "sparkling wine'.

  15. Tonight, among other wines, we had the other bottle of Barolo (the Costa di Bussia) which wasn't that highly regarded here, but which we found pleasant once again.  Not nearly as nice as the Cab we had (2000 Simi  LandSlide Vineyard) but very pleasant.  The real difficulty is that at the price range of Barolo's it is an expensive taste to play around with. 

      When it comes to Cabs or Zins or Pinot Noirs and a fair amout of other wines, we've tasted enough wines that (while I still don't enjoy doing it) if we spend 50, 60, or even 100 or more for a wine (and no we don't do it often) we typically have a comfort level with our decision.  Spending 50+ though on something we've enjoyed but are not that familiar with becomes a little dicey.  Not that it isn't worth it, but the comfort level is just not there.

        The one wine I"m interested in trying more of now though is the Barbersesco's which look to be a more affordable alternative.  I must admit though (as I finish the bottle which had one glass left) if I find a mediocre one to be quite pleasant, how delighted I'll probably be when I bite the bulllet and buy one of the better Barolol's.

    I have to admit that "pleasant" is not what I am going for when I go for Barolo. I am looking for excitement and precision. I want a wine with a cutting edge that makes my palate come alive. "Pleasant" may be acceptable for Simi Cabernet and Nebbiolo d'Alba and most of the wines that are available on a daily basis. However, Barolo is not one of those wines with only 8,000,000 bottles produced a year for the entire planet. A "pleasant" Barolo is a failure - and almost certainly a very bad value.

  16. I have found that you can't go wrong with the dishes that come from the area in question.

    The local folks seem to pair up food with the local wines (or is it the other way round?) with the best results!

    I believe it is out of print-- but Matt Kramer's "A Passion for Piedmont" is a great book with many wonderful recipes from the Piedmont with lots of good wine info and perspective. kramer has  a real love for the region and has spent a lot of time there--not to speak of his not inconsiderable perspective on wine in general.

    also

    The best book on Italian wine at the moment is "Vino Italiano" by Joe Bastianich and David Lynch (just out in paperback)--it covers all of Italy (not just the Piedmont) but it also covers food pairing (courtesy of his mom Lydia Bastianich) and is loaded with wonderful consumer friendly information.

    By the way--I second Brad's advice to try both "New" and "0ld style" Barolo (don't forget Barbaresco--which is also Nebbiolo but usually matures earlier).

    I happen to love both styles!

    right now the barolos of Marcarini are reasonably priced for the quality--around fifty to sixty bucks (you might even find em for forty or so).

    Marcarini is not "reasonably priced for the quality" - if quality alone set the price they would cost more than Sperss. Manuel Marchetti is to be admired for his commitment to keeping his prices down - especially considering the spectacular quality of his wines. Unfortunately, most never understand how profound these wines are.

  17. In 2003, I had a 1988 Henriot Brut Cuvée des Enchanteleurs that tasted literally like fizzy vomit although it was rated 94 by Wine Spectator.  I had a American champagne (made by methode champagnoise) that was much better.  I've also had other champagnes and sparkling wines that taste like aspirin.  I would recommend an American champagne unless someone has different experiences that I have had with French champagne.

    Out of respect for both Champagne and fine American sparkling wines, lets try to refrain from the unfortunate misnomer "American champagne".

    Fizzy vomit or not, it deserves the respect of place.

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