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Suvir Saran

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Everything posted by Suvir Saran

  1. Comprehending Indian Cooking - Great discussions on Indian cooking can be found here
  2. Ayurvedic Cooking This will share with you how religion has played a very important role in Indian cooking.
  3. Overview on Indian Cooking "Like any art form, the foundation of Indian cooking is based on technique. There is a body of knowledge about the food itself - the vegetables, the spices, the herbs, the sauces - but this information is meaningless unless applied with sensitivity. I use the words sensitivity and knowledge in all of their nuances: knowing when a vegetable like the bitter melon, karela, is perfectly in season; understanding how to remove the bitterness; and, finally being aware of its healing properties. There's a perfect moment to eat karela, just as there's an appropriate time for an Indian raga to be played. There are monsoon ragas, morning ragas, and ragas that are played when the lover has gone. Music and food are always respected for their ability to cleanse the soul, and heal."
  4. Masalas These are the spices (whole, ground, fried or toasted) that extol Indian cooking.
  5. I am posting below links from threads here that would help a novice to Indian cooking. Please add your experiences and other links that would be helpful.
  6. They have been nothing but nightmares till now. Each of the ones mentioned above and also those not mentioned. Like Pondicherry in NYC. I was an owner in it towards the end. I came into it thinking I would do something magical that would take Indian fusion to the next logical step. The media was all waiting... I had nothing I could create that would be any better or different in its real soul from what Pondicherry had already done and later Tabla had followed and done at a grander scale. In fact, very quickly, I was the one that was responsible for the closing of that restaurant. It is with that knowledge that I say I await the opening of a restaurant that may follow Tabla's footsteps but make the food become something that will be remembered with awe generations after. That has not happened yet, and I am hoping some chef doing what Pondicherry and Tabla did, can make it finally work. I am sure it can happen. But I hope it happens in a way that does not erase what has happened before, it only becomes another great cuisine. I believe things can happen. But I do not live in fantasy land. Even though I have been called Pollyanna, I live in a world acutely aware of the failures and handicaps of my own and those I share my world with. No fragile illusions in my part. But do I hope? Yes.
  7. There are many now scattered through Bombay and Delhi... But not of the type that one goes to for glorious meals that are remembered in conversations that are awe inspiring. Rather these holes in the walls are sating the urges for good food. Now all we need are attractive restaurants, with professional service, wine and beer programs that are as well thought out as the food.. and then, Indian food will not have to be lost to mere cheap tricks played by it's own chefs and those that borrow from it. But, instead, we will see Indian food as we see in many of the finer homes. It can happen, but only if we have hope and are encouraging of those small steps that some are making. Too often, the bigger names simply playing tricks in using stuff from India get all the media and the players making very humble and certainly not the most media worthy (in their attractive quotient) achievements are left in the dark.
  8. This is true most everywhere. Exactly what we need.
  9. Wise man you are. Gringing your own spices... you are doing what is best. Also whole spices keep fresher longer... so this is the best way to store them. And griding them fresh as you need them, makes sure your dishes get the most heightened flavor.... You certainly are a natural cook.
  10. Maybe you will document what you do for us at eGullet. What a treat it shall be.... Thanks in advance.
  11. For my selfish benefit, I wish your dream came true very soon. I am sure you will bring us a restaurant that takes from Tabla what Indian restaurants ought to know, and with some more care and thought, you can take it yet further and give us a restaurant that pushes the envelope even further and takes Indian food and restaurant scene into a next logical step. I think we cannot forget the Mrs. Singh's, Madhur Jaffrey's and Julie Sahnis of Indian cooking, but we also need to move on. It is finding a perfect balance that maintains a link between the two that is at once strong and yet unique is what one is looking for. I wish Raji had lived her life as one would have hoped for another person. Her sad and sudden demise took away a chef that was only now going back to the discovery of her roots. Her understanding of Indian food was far less evolved than her understanding of French technique. I did a long story about her and Tamarind in Food Arts. In doing so, I understood how little she knew and yet how much she knew. Indian food was a stranger to her even though she was Indian. And at Tamarind, with the knowledge that came to her from Hemant Mathur and Peter, she found a new meaning in Indian cooking. One she never knew. I was excitedly awaiting a next venture where she would have shown us what could happen when French and India meet. But she was rudely taken away even before her dream (and mine as well) could find any shape at all. But yes we have many new players with great talent and much promise. The horizon is wide open and awaiting the future that is certain for tomorrow, but not for us to yet know.
  12. I am assuming they are all three women. For not many men can write with such passion and sensitivity. Wow... If we had more women sharing their thoughts in public forums, this world would be a much happier place. Jinmyo I agree that these 3 great eGulleteers have shared amazing bits of personal recipes and thoughts in making that thread and much of their eGullet posting a treat for the rest of us. And then we have you.... Your pearls of wisdom are happily scattered around the site. Now India wishes she too could get some in her lap....
  13. Regional Mexican Cooking Thread, a great read for those interested in learning more about Mexican cooking
  14. I have made the above recipe and love it. How do you make your favorite version of Chilaquiles? PS: I must thank Jaymes profusely for sharing this great recipe.
  15. I am posting this post as Jaymes is being bashful. StellaB, Toby and Jaymes were each very generous on a thread on regional differences in the cooking of Mexico. This is a post I have pulled from there. Hope you all enjoy it as much as I did and some others have. ************************************************* ".......I got my recipe for chilaquiles from a Mexican friend, a housewife, in Querétaro. My daughter went for a visit a while back and, although I had asked for the recipe many times, got the typical "home cooking recipe" answer: "Oh, just a little of this and a little of that. I can no say exactamente, it is the recipe de mi mamá y mi abuelita (little grandmother)." I told my daughter she was to go into Lita's kitchen and not come back out until she knew how to make them. StellaB, I am including here an excerpt from an email my daughter sent to me during her stay in Querétaro. I am including it because of your fondness for Mexico...I think you will enjoy my daughter's impression of Mexican grandmothers: "Mom, I am staying at Jaime's mother's house that is close to downtown Querétaro. She is wonderful....and calls me 'mija.' I love that. I want to be a Mexican grandmother. They hug on you and kiss your cheeks, and make such good food and call everyone Mi Amor, or Mi Vida or Mija. It is so cute!" So, anyway, mi amiga Lita, has four children. The family eats chilaquiles for breakfast at least three or four mornings a week, so Lita has to be able to make it fast. And she does. This is how she does it: CHILAQUILES: Salsa verde (tomatilla sauce); torn tortilla chips (Lita uses Fritos and told me not to laugh before I tried it and I didn't and I did and she's right, they work just fine); queso manchego (or asadero, or ranchero, or fresco, or any other Mexican white cheese that you like); and sour cream. In bottom of microwaveable dish, spread a little tomatilla sauce, then layer of Fritos, then more sauce, then sour cream, then "bastante queso." Repeat, until dish is full or ingredients are all used up, finishing with cheese. Microwave one minute, or till chilaquiles are heated through and cheese is melted. You'll probably have to experiment a time or two in order to get all of the proportions just right. TOMATILLO SAUCE: (Stellabella, you said you make your own, so you proably don't need this recipe but here it is just in case. I should also add that Lita often just buys Herdéz brand Salsa Verde in the small cans if she is pressed for time.) 1 tsp or so cooking oil (just enough to cover botton of saucepan) 6 or so whole tomatillos, paper skins removed jalepeños, or other chile peppers, to desired "pica" water to cover Put tomatillos and chiles in saucepan and water, just to barely cover. Bring to boil and cook just till tomatillos are soft (not too long, don't want them "mushy"). Put tomatillos and peppers (do not discard cooking water) into blender or food processor along with: 2 small cloves garlic 1 tsp salt 1/4 cup chopped onion "handful" cilantro 2 tsp "caldo de pollo" (which I interpret to mean powdered chicken boullion, but I don't know for sure...should have asked, but never did...that's what I add and it comes out fine) Blend in food processor very well. Add cooking water to reach desired "sauce" consistancy...you want it fairly liquid, but flavorful and not "watered-down" tasting, so use your own judgment. ............."
  16. Regional Differences in Mexican Cooking Check the above thread for Jaymes famous* recipe for Chilaquile. * Famous to me is something made by Jaymes.
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