Suvir Saran
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Everything posted by Suvir Saran
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Anil, do you make Kanji? If yes, start a new thread and educate us about Kanji. And I love chaat and thus love Kaala Namak.
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Anil you have been missed. Look forward to your posting again.
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Is now being served at Selfridges as a part of the Indian festivities. A friend just came back from London. He said it was the best Rabri he has ever eaten, period. Have any of the UK members tried it? What is the feedback? Worth coming to London for? Honest answers please. For you know I will do just that.
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Cabrales, you wrote a great post. I have begun writing a response, but then I was distracted by Steve P's post and now I need to get ready for lunch. Later today or early tomorrow, I will share with you my thoughts. I am sure Vivin, Anil, Ajay, Simon and others would have much to share with you as well. Where are they??? We need you now. And Steve P, this is a lunch Chuck and I are eating at a friend's home on the UES. She lives with 3 full time live in household workers and a live in Nanny for her kid. She happens to be one of the more celebrated dealers of antique jewelry and textiles from India. At her home, all 3 meals of the day are served in the very High Haute fashion of a royal household from another era of the world. But right in our very own NYC. My point is to illustrate to you that what we cannot see does not always mean it does not exist. It simply is waiting to be discovered. This friend's home, jewelry, textiles and serving platters and artifacts have been used in many magazines and dailies. Town and Country, W Magazine, In Style, Elle, etc... Her stuff has been the set for Jean Paul Gautier's collection I believe no more than a year ago. The entire collection was shown in this home. India was Haute Hot that year and was beginning to make a dent in America. My point here is to not brag about this friend. I leave her anonymous just for that reason. It is to share with you another face of India. In fact none of those magazines are ones I ever read. They do nothing for me. My point here is to highlight to you that not only is Haute a way of life for many in India, but for several Indians living here. It just is not Indian to expose ones intimate life with everyone. We are extremely private in many ways.
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Robert certainly there are restaurants that want to mask bad meat with fiery marinades, but that does not change the fact that marinades were not made for that goal. In fact in many Indian homes, meat has been one thing that the man of the house often cooks himself. Why? For two reasons, first, for women were often vegetarian. Secondly for the man would go hunting and come back with the meat, the household help would clean and butcher in his presence and then the man would instruct and get the meat prepared for consumption. There was no room for error with such close supervision. And the meats were always fresh.
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Steve the marinades were never created to cover up bad meat. In fact, meat in India is only eaten after it has been blessed and given respect for its place in this universe as sustenance. We call this act Halal and many Hindus and Christians also eat Halal meat. There are no Meat Markets of the style in NYC. Animals are not slaughtered, as you would see in a war. Animals are chosen and then butchered and with in my case, tears in my eyes. I have never heard that myth. But I can easily understand what you mean. One can make a marinade spicy and more acidic to cover up some flaws in meat. Is that a reason to marinade, maybe to some people? Would I use that as a generalization about Indian cooking and marinating, No. Now about Indian Haute Cuisine. Steve, Indians of wealth, live lives far more rich and decadent than what one can imagine. I have hosted and been in the company of royalty, socialites and dignitaries across India and they mouths open wide and completely as they live the decadence they would have ascribed to many generations past. Is the food Haute, far Haut'er than you could ever imagine or I could ever write about. But in India, Haute is not done in restaurants. They are for the most part a place for the upper-lower income group and the lower-middle income groups and youngsters to go. Once you have landed on your own feet, have a home and means, you entertain lavishly and completely at home. A rather famous and fiery food critic from NYC was shocked how they were served the most amazing seafood in Bombay. At the private home of a friend that is the only home off Bombay in a small Island. 6 men carried the 8 x 3 feet wide silver and glass platter laden with the largest Sri Lankan King Crabs, the largest Lobsters and Shrimps and several other creatures of t he sea. All local for the most part, and what were not, had been flown in via the private chopper from wherever they were, only an hour before lunch was served. This critic could not believe eating food in this haute style at a restaurant, in their wildest imagination that would not fathom a host at home being able to create this. The seafood was served with 22 chutneys and sauces. Lunch was an intricate 9 courses. A feast for all the senses. To this day, 3 years later, every time we talk about haute food, this critic reflects on that meal. They wonder if I had organized this just for them, no. Unfortunately, the old and established rich of India have no desire to open their homes to the masses or the press. You can come with friends and family and be a part of their life. But if you come just to take their private life to the masses, the doors will continue to be closed to you. Steve, one such friend of mine lives between mansions in London, Paris and New Delhi. Her homes in each city have been featured in books and magazines about Fine Interiors and charmed lifestyle. Her life is spent traveling and meeting with families of certain stature around the globe. At her home in Delhi, London or Paris you are served a cuisine that is Haute and unlike any you can get in any restaurant. Private chefs from around the globe have been hired to learn from one another, to create their own unique dishes and to bring out together a meal that is a happy symphony of tastes, flavors and textures and has dishes that are authentic to many different ethnicities, some that are fusion and others that are modern and inventive takes on age old classics. But again, her home is private. And she takes great pride in keeping it as such. So much so, that when these magazines and books have done photographs of the home, the family and the foods never get featured. Food and family, remain concealed. On my post in reply to Cabrales, you will find the answer to why food is given such respect. Are there chefs that puree spinach? Moi! Have they done it publicly? Yes. For India's 50th anniversary of independence, I was the caterer at Carnegie Hall with Stephen Heinzerling the chef there. I created a menu that was executed by us together. The Saag Paneer was exactly what we serve in my home. For at least the 2 decades I remember. Nothing was changed. We always pureed the spinach. Since we were plating the food, it was served as you suggest. We did whole breasts of chicken with an apricot and plum sauce, that too was presented in Haute style. Again done by an Indian and not uncommon from what I have seen and eaten in Indian homes. The chefs are there, the evolution has and will continue to take place, will we see it successfully translated into restaurants, yes, but in time. To give you an example about how private we are, my lover always wonders why I have no pictures of my family. He has no gumption about framing his family portraits. We tend to memorialize the dead in such frames. Those living are loved without a need for pictures. But as with any statement, there are certainly millions of Indians that have pictures hanging around. In fact, since my siblings left home, my mother has had to resort to hanging our pictures in a hidden wall in her bedroom. As more Indians come overseas and have lived here longer and felt established enough to not fear discrimination for being different, we will see a new breed of restaurateurs that will change the very life of Indian restaurants. They will bring from their culture that which remains to be shared yet. But also remember, pre-plated food is not an option most Indians want. They are happy and feel comfortable and sincere when eating and sharing at the same time. To Moslems in India, that is a part of their very intimate code of living. They eat from one plate many times. So, while you may not consider something Haute, it has a much deeper meaning to another. Far more cultural, philosophical, deeply spiritual and significant. Do not underestimate the power of spirituality. Not all things that seem Haute may have substance and not all things that seem spiritual have any depth. Somewhere in-between is reality.
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Chiles, tomatoes and potatoes are all new. The cuisine actually has become less fiery now, for people have stopped using the more expensive alternate of making things hot, the peppercorn. They were used in large amounts and with the addition of cloves added a heat that continued to hit you long after the bite. Tamarind, lemons, limes, mango powder, pomegranate seed powder and star fruit were the souring agents.
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Simon, This thread could take a lifetime to be answered in full detail. I think within India food has changed depending on what region one is in. The proximity with the British and other colonial powers. The invasions from the middle east etc. Indian food is like Jazz, while the piece may be familiar, the artist has room to improvise. That is why I often tell people that Indian food is very similar to Indian Classical Music. I will write more Monday, after I have some time to write my thoughts. This will be a fascinating thread.
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Interesting... very interesting Jinmyo. Maybe others can share with you their thoughts on this topic... And I will wait to see what everyone else says. I would hate to say much before we can hear the other perspective on this. You maybe onto something very crucial here. I love cooking with tomatillos as well.
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TT sounds fine... since the letters are different from what you may be thinking. Looking forward to sampling your Tarte Tatin. I do not have a fancy kitchen.. but you are most welcome to come bake it in mine. But maybe you can make it in the country and drive it with you into the city. It can stay a few hours. What do you think?
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I guess no TT for me then Jaybee? Well if you want to play with a stainless mandoline, mine is yours to work with.
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How lucky you are John. No such luck in NYC. We have to bring our little plant indoors. And we have little sun, so that makes the plant half as healthy as it could be. I envy you. Nothing like making tadkas (tempered oil) for dishes with freshly plucked and bruised curry leaves. The aroma is just wonderful and stimutales the senses into a mood for savoring foods.
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And for my notorious sweet tooth, it was wonderful. I was one amongst many that was actually impressed by it. The rest like you found it too sweet and an anti-climax. I also loved the famous peanuts they serve in bottomless bowls. Wow... they were the crunchiest, tastiest peanuts I have ever eaten. I am sure if made at home, the cocktail could be more refined and brought back to its old glory. Below is the recipe and note that come in the cards they hand out at the Long Bar. Singapore Sling The Singapore Sling was created at the Raffles Hotel at the turn-of-the-century by Hainanese-Chinese bartender, Mr. Ngiam Tong Boon. In the Hotel's museum, visitors may view the safe in which Mr. Ngiam locked away his precious recipe books, as well as the Sling recipe hastily jotted down on a bar chit in 1936 by a visitor to the hotel who asked for it. Originally, the Singapore Sling was meant as a woman's drink, hence the attractive pink colour. Today, it is very definitely a drink enjoyed by all, without which any visit to Raffles Hotel is incomplete. Recipe 30 ml Gin 15 ml Cherry Brandy 120 ml Pineapple Juice 15 ml lime juice 7.5 ml cointreau 7.5 ml Dom Benedectine 10 ml Grenadine A Dash of Angostura Bitters Garnish with a slice of Pineapple and Cherry
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Jaybee after the TT tasting, you can come borrow my mandoline. See if you like using it. I have one of those stainless ones.. paid a hundred odd dollars for it. Never used it. Actually, I would love to use it, but do not know how. Maybe you can borrow it, use it, keep it, and teach me how to use it and I can buy myself another. What say you Jaybee?
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What condiments are your favorite with the pakoras??? Do you make them at home?
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Steve, Maybe next time you are at Dimple you may want to try Dhoklas and Khandvi. They are made from lentil and bean flours and one is like a steamed cake (Dhoklas) and Khandvi is like nothing I know of to comparein western cooking, maybe a rolled crepe of sorts. For your wheat allergies, these would be great. And they also make Baajra Nu Rotlas. Flat breasds made with millet at Dimple. In fact at Indian stores you can sometimes find flatbreads in the freezer section made from chickpea flour. You can also buy those and keep for those bread cravings. They are easy to toast in a toaster oven and taste great with plain yogurt or even some Indian style pickles. I love Pakoras in all their many forms. There is something wonderful about their taste and they also make me start salivating at the thought of the name. In fact I will go and make some after I post this. They take little time to make and are just sooo soulful. I make spinach pakoras. Sometimes with frozen chopped spinach when making them at the spur of the moment and lazy to go out shopping, at other times with freshly chopped spinach, at other times with whol baby spinach leaves. I sometimes mix rice flour to the pakora batter. It makes the batter more crunchy. Works well for the whole leaf spinach pakoras. I actually sometimes make a thick batter with rice flour alone and dip spinach leaves in it and fry them. The leaves come out nice and crips and the rice flour gives them a very sheer cruncy coating. I then toss a Bhel on top of the spinach pakoras and make my own version of a Sev Puri. The puri in this instance is made with spinach leaves instead of whole wheat. I make paneer, onion, cauliflower, bread, potato, hot chile pepper, sweet potato and baby corn pakoras.
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Thanks Jinmyo!
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Thanks Jinmyo, it was the mushrooms that threw me off. I am not sure how the mushrooms would fare in deepfrying. But sealed in the chickpea flour batter, I am sure they do just fine. What a great new pakora ingredient. I will try them soon.
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Jinmyo, Tell us about the chicken-mushroom, mushroom-chicken... do you make these? Would you mind sharinga recipe? Simon, I add some coarsely ground carom (ajowain) seeds into the batter. They are a good flavor to the batter and also help cutting the grease in the body.
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I have enjoyed each and every post here. Lesley I await your own feedback after the trip. I have so much to learn before my trip to London, maybe you can do the groundwork.
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How does it rate in your book??
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Where do you go eat pakoras? Do you make them at home? What vegetables do you use and why? What makes a pakora special? What are the key ingredients for a good pakora?
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What is the difference between black salt and other salts? How and where do you use it? What does it do to the dish?
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Or is it better eating it at a restaurant? I make it at home very often. Friends seem to have Bhel cravings at odd hours of the day. Since restaurants are closed at those hours, my kitchen is called upon and it obliges. Do others make it at home? What recipe do you use? What packaged Bhel Mix do you use? Or, do you mix your own Bhel?
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Bux you are very kind to me. Thanks for the find. Jaybee, your TT would be better than any, cooked in special pans no less. I will make you a fine Indian picnic meal. One that would work well with the TT. What say you? And maybe next time.. you can cook the savory stuff and I the TT.