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John Rosevear

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  1. She'll try to stop by later this week for more discussion! Oh, excellent! That book is actually on my Xmas list, so if Santa is kind I'll have it in hand shortly.
  2. Oo, I just got the Culinaria France book and haven't had a chance to crack it yet. I'm definitely looking forward to your holiday adventures here, Chris. Is the Daube de Boeuf a la Gasconne from the Wolfert book? What's special about the Gascon style?
  3. John Rosevear

    Szechuan Peppercorn or Not

    I've had an awful lot of "Szechuan" restaurant dishes -- even in otherwise pretty good places -- that clearly hadn't had even a single Szechuan peppercorn so much as waved over them. I suspect that some places think that the numbing will weird out the average American, and they might be right.
  4. John Rosevear

    Christmas 2010 Menus

    I haven't yet sorted the details -- that's a project for this weekend -- but here's the general direction. I wanted something that felt festive, was reasonably fun and accessible, that balanced the needs of a couple of fussy guests, and that was not not not my family's traditional Xmas meal (a replay of Thanksgiving dinner, with turkey and et cetera.) A goose, by request. Perhaps braised with chestnut and sausage stuffing, as per Julia Child; Côtes de boeuf, done Ducasse's way in a not-too-hot pan, with bearnaise; Something that is not mashed potatoes (a gratin Dauphinois has been requested, though I'm not sure it's quite the right thing -- I generally make the "Madame Laracine" variant from Patricia Wells' "Bistro Cooking", going rather heavier on the gruyère than she does); Chestnuts and onions braised with stock and Madeira; Something green -- braised escarole, perhaps. Dessert, soup, wine, yet to be determined.
  5. John Rosevear

    Beef Wellington on the grill

    I would not even attempt this except on a very large (so as to have the heat properly indirect), gas (so as to minimize the smoke flavors) grill, something like a 6-burner Weber Summit or similar, preferably with a double-layer lid that retains heat well. I'd use a pan set on the grates -- I'd essentially be trying to recreate an oven. I've done this (not with a Wellington, but with roasts), and it works, but even with the best grills it's kind of a fussy process -- keeping the temperature steady is dependent on things like ambient air temp and wind direction that one never considers when cooking indoors.
  6. That extra bit of citrus-oily bitterness is obviously a bigger deal in some drinks -- I can't imagine a vesper without lemon peel in it, for instance -- than in others. And I do generally like the way it looks. But I'm intrigued by Andy's comment and will leave the peel out of my next Sazerac, just to see.
  7. John Rosevear

    The One, new stemware from Andrea Robinson

    I've broken too many Riedels in recent years and have been on the lookout for a good everyday glass that's a little more affordable (and maybe a little more durable). These look great - we'll give them a try.
  8. ...and a critical part of making the whole thing accessible to ordinary folks.
  9. You are missing that "any other chef" of that quality was not on US TV at the time, and those techniques simply were not available to most Americans except via Julia Child. And while she may not have invented the chef-on-TV form, she is absolutely responsible for its current popularity -- PBS's long list of cooking shows past and present, not to mention Food Network et al, would not exist if she had not shown the way.
  10. John Rosevear

    Technivorm vs Bunn Coffee Makers

    At $300, the Technivorm already counts as "serious cash" (if not "ludicrous cash") for a drip coffeemaker, particularly when something like a Capresso MT500 or a Zojirushi makes similarly good coffee (yes, the water gets just as hot) for half the price or less... and particularly when you need to spend another $70-$400 for a decent burr grinder to really take advantage of any of these machines' virtues. The Technivorm has more snob value than most coffee makers, but is the coffee really better? But yeah, "best coffee you'll get at home" way overstates it... a French press or an Aeropress or a Bodum Santos, properly used, will outdo any drip machine for a fraction of the cost.
  11. John Rosevear

    Glazed Onions

    Last year I braised them with butter, stock, and Madeira for about 40 min or so, then let the liquid boil off and rolled the onions around in the pan to brown/glaze them a bit just before serving. Huge success. The Madeira -- which I used only because it was the closest bottle to hand, as I was doing this on the fly while dealing with something else -- turned out to be an inspired touch.
  12. John Rosevear

    Putting Butter Between Skin/Meat of Your turkey

    I have done it, both with my own compound butter (garlic, the usual herbs, a bit of shallot) and with a 1:1 mix of Kerrygold's herbed butter and good unsalted butter. It works, though I've found that it works best if the butter's a little soft and you can mush it around a bit so that it's more or less evenly spread across the breast.
  13. John Rosevear

    Flower Liquor

    It is worth buying. Everybody needs a bottle of Luxardo Maraschino. The rose liqueur intrigues me... I'm with EvergreenDan, I'd try an Aviation variant with (a tiny bit of) that and maybe Hendrick's?
  14. John Rosevear

    Orange Flavored Chicken

    Not the goop, really? If anyone should be goop-inclined, there's a good recipe for restaurant-style Crispy Orange Chicken in Stuart Chang Berman's "Potsticker Chronicles". I only make it a couple times a year, but it's one of my kids' favorite things ever. It's a bit higher-class than the food court stuff, but I wouldn't call it "authentic Chinese" -- more what you'd get at a good takeout place. In the event someone's interested in trying it, here it is. Note that (as in the original) no actual oranges are involved, just a last-second splash of orange extract. 1 lb boneless chicken breasts cornstarch to coat BATTER 1 cup cornstarch 1/2 cup all-purpose flour SAUCE 1 cup chicken broth 3 TB black or mushroom soy sauce 2 TB dry sherry (or Shaoxiang wine, presumably) 1 TB light soy sauce or Kikkoman 4 cloves garlic, crushed and minced 1 TB finely minced ginger 1 TB sugar 1/2 tsp white pepper 1 tsp chili paste (or to taste) 1 TB cornstarch mixed with 1/4 c cold water 3/4 cup sugar, or to taste (I use considerably less) 1 tsp orange extract 4 cups oil for frying 1. Slice chicken lengthwise into 4 pieces, then cut crosswise on a 45 degree angle to create 1/4" slices about the size of a silver dollar (sic). Dust these pieces in cornstarch, shake off excess, and lay out on a cookie sheet. 2. Make the batter: Mix the flour and 1 cup cornstarch with 1 cup cold water. Batter should be fairly thick but not too thick to stir. 3. Heat oil (in a wok or dutch oven or deep-fryer) to 350F. Add the chicken to the batter, stir to coat. Deep fry the chicken pieces in batches without crowding until crusty and white, 3-5 minutes. Drain. Return oil to 350F and fry a second time until golden, 1-2 minutes longer. Drain. 4. Make the sauce: Combine sauce ingredients in a wok over high heat. Bring to a boil while stirring. Add the cornstarch mixture. Boil until thickened. 5. Immediately add the chicken pieces to the sauce and very quickly toss until the chicken pieces are all coated with the sauce. Continuing to stir and toss the chicken, add the sugar gradually, pouring from about 12 inches above the wok (a helper is useful here, or quickly alternate sprinkling and tossing) as you toss the chicken underneath. Once glaze has formed, splash the orange extract over the chicken. Toss several times to mix. Serve immediately.
  15. I think companies like Garagiste give (some of) those small producers a market they might not have been able to find 10 years ago, sort of a wine-geek's version of a CSA. All hope is not lost -- in fact, it's possible that things are improving.
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