TarteTatin

We knew someone about 15-20 years ago that bought a bottle of Napoleanic madeira at Christie's in London. He had paid twelve hundred pounds for it and was taking it back through Waterloo when the bag it was in slipped out of his hand. It hit the pavement and broke. At least half of the wine was savable and he poured it into an empty Burgundy bottle he had with him. He then recorked the bottle, salvaged the broken bits and proceeded to Gatwick. When they tried to stop him with the broken bits of the bottle....He told them what it was, from Napolean's time, they said, "Very good, Sir" and let him continue on his way!!!!

We also love Gruet and Cremant D'alsace and Moscato D'asti... Just came back from private visits to three wineries in the Loire. Poniatowski's/Baudoin-- Sap Nature is delicious and inexpensive, its almost got a hint of Calvados in it, or possibly D'anjou since its right next door. Arnance B at Ampelidae was 5 euros a bottle three weeks ago at the winery, and damn good! Clean and fresh. They are about to get their organic wine approval (took five years). Interesting, they aren't part of any appellation (sp?) in Poitiers, about 45 minutes south of Tours/Vouvray. Fabrice Gasnier's place in Chinon just started this year to make Sparkling, and we didn't get to try it... Great trip, though, and we had lots of Sparkling to shout, "Bonne Annee" with at the Pont Marie in Paris when we got back on New Year's eve!

"Quenelles! At the Sansom Street Oyster Houe? I think not. The beauty of SSOH, as Katie made clear early in this string, is that it's an Old School Philadelphia restaurant, doing what the historic oyster houses always did: serving very fresh and high quality shellfish and finfish prepared in a straightforward manner. That doesn't mean it's immune to change -- SSOH was serving branzino four or five years ago, before anyone else in town even heard of it -- but it does mean sticking to basics. The kitchen at SSOH does an incredible job with fish (especially whoever handles the deep frying), but trying to expand its repertoire to quenelles would be, IMHO, a mistake. If you want quenelles, ask George Perriers to put it on his menus." I really disagree, Ribkind! Quenelles are a very basic food, pike dumplings! They would be out of place at Georges Perrier. Quenelles are simple, peasant bistro food, like at Chez Jenny, not fine food...We think its perfect for a place like Sansom St. Oyster House... As far as the plateau, there's nothing wrong with serving it with the items that they can get. No need to go crazy to serve razor clams, SSOH can "make it their own" by including whatever ingredients they specifically want to use that week... Perhaps give these thoughts a chance rather than poo-poo them immediately. Anyway, you and I and all on this thread are just giving ideas and thoughts and wishes. It's ultimately up to Cary and Katie and all involved at SSOH to do what they wish.

Last night: Me- Bitter Chocolate, so creamy and dark. Mexican Chocolate, cinnamon and not as spicy as I remember, just delicious. Clementine, subtle and tasty. Him- Chestnut, whole bits of chestnut in it! Quince, light and nicely astringent and nicely sweet.

Sorry we're so late in our Congratulations, Katie! We were in France the past two weeks. Had three private wine appointments in the Loire. Poniatowski in Vouvray (Baudoin) Chinon, and in Poitiers. Spent time in Saumur and also Paris (which we'll eventually post on the France site). ANYWAY! We come back to this GREAT news! Congratulations!!!!!! We've always loved Sansom St. Oyster House, specifically because it is so "old-fashioned".... Love the plateau idea, they are everywhere in France, as you know, and the oysters over New Year's were fantastic! Had some Bretagnes (sp?) that were outrageous.... How about some old fashioned quenelles? Not too rich, very light. Had some at Chez Jenny last week that were served over a risotto with lobster sauce and bits of crayfish, but again, not half as rich as it sounds... I'd agree and say Alsace wines, and DEFINITELY champagne with oysters and plateau! Not just Veuve Cliquot, the BEST, but maybe even Cremant de Alsace?

All I know is that a waitress that worked there for a long time just left, saying it wasn't the same at all. It's owned by the guy that owns South St. Souvlaki, I think.

I love paris in the springtime. I love paris in the fall. I love paris in the winter when it drizzles, I love paris in the summer when it sizzles. I love paris every moment, Every moment of the year. I love paris, why, oh why do i love paris? Because my love is near. MMMMMMMMM....We'll be there in 7 days! Can't wait! January again in Paris!

I was just posting in New Jersey (under Pizzicato, since I went there today), and I'm wondering if anyone knows where to get a REALLY GOOD Caesar Salad. You know, if not tableside, then darn close?

I love Miel. Also, we just got a gift from Maison du Chocolate -there's one in NYC now, by the skating rink, not just in Paris. I have to say, they are incredible. Each one has these infusions of tea, or fennel or FRESH mint, or Raspberry pulp,or..... just delightful, and each tastes so very fresh, not fake, very real. I'm sure they'll mail order to you! Did you see the special in the NY Times Travel section a week ago? It was about the best Paris Chocolate....not just chocolates themeselves, but it talks about a place that makes Hot Chocolate. They set a pitcher of cream in front of you, and a pitcher of pure melted chocolate! WOW! Also, if you ever see Bernard Castelain chocolates: He's from Chateau-neuf-du-pape and his dark chocolate covered almonds are unequaled in my mind. Anyway, Miel is probably the best. Robert Bennett sure knows how to make it all!

BLEU D' BRESSE Outrageous! Similar, I think, to Bleu D'Auvergne. Isn't it? Tastes like Poulet D'Bresse but bleu cheese! Imagine that stuffed in a Bresse chicken! Yum! I haven't found it outside of Bresse/Macon. Except a supermarket brand in Paris that wasn't good. ...or is the spelling, Blue D'Bresse?

Ginger Sorbet! Yum!

Merci, you all! Yes, we are very aware that most places are closed that week. Darn. That's when we take most of our vacations throughout France, between Xmas and New Year's, and its the same everywhere in France. But...since that is when we can go, we have to take our chances! And, thank you, Markk, for the guide stuff!

Yes, we agree: Pasion. Lacroix. Maybe Sansom St. Oyster House. NEW ADDITION: Standard Tap. We think the food there is GREAT (not fancy) and always fresh and good food. Go to them all in your final "last week" instead of last meal!

OKAY. I know Thanksgiving was so far away we've forgotten it and are already thinking about Christmas turkey/ham. But, we were invited to the guy who started this threads dinner- for Thanksgiving, and I haven't had the chance to write back and tell you how outrageous it was. Hot.Chef rocks. We had TRUFFLE popcorn to start. Yes, you read that right! Outrageous! There were cheeses, some fabulous blue goat presented at the James Beard dinner. But who cared. -- TRUFFLE POPCORN is your tongue throwing a party for your mouth. Then, he rolled Pintade (guinea hen) Roulade and stuffed it with Duck Leg and Cherries. Not nearly as heavy as it sounds. VERY light! Not too rich at all. Moist, you wanted to inject it into your tastebuds. That was served with his Lobster Mashed Potatoes. He made the Lobster stock, there were tons of Lobster pieces, and, again, not too rich and wonderful! Of course, great green beans, cold, with baby onions, served cold with some sort of vinegar? sauce, and baked endive....My husband made Lemon Tarts with Hazelnut pastry and unwaxed lemons from our friends in Santa Rosa, Ca. and there was great pumpkin roll. We brought back Max Poulaine shortbread from Paris and the wines were great... Tradition? Nah. I'd go for a Chef husband/wife team making their own creation, any day, any year!

Just trying one more time to pick up this thread and see if anyone else (besides derricks) had any experience in the Saumur. We are staying right in Saumur between Xmas and New Year's and actually have three different wine appointments in the region (helps to know someone in the wine business!).... Ponitiawski(sp?) in Vouvray, a place in Chinon and third...but still looking for good food.

Inbetween your extravagant meal(s), try Chez Prosper at Nation on one of the far corners outside the Metro. It's a bistro that we hesitate to mention, for fear of it getting more popular than it already is! But they have amazingly large salads and quiche, etc. A few weeks ago I had Fromage Quiche (or Quiche Fromage) made with 3 or 4 different cheeses and a huge amount of salad on the side. Hubby had a huge Croque Monseiur which came with a large salad as well. We often go there inbetween the heavy, rich, indulgent meals for just a salad or soup. Delicious, fresh, I guess its "service non-stop". Good wines by the bottle; we found that ordering a carafe last time was actually more expensive than some of the good roses, beaujolais wines. Their desserts are homemade and delicious too.

Just a few added words about going from outside chill to inside heat (from Mr. TarteTatin): After our recent trip in November I realized that most Parisian men walk around wearing a shirt, a scarf and a heavyish coat - no sweater (if you wear a sweater, that's it, just a sweater, no shirt) otherwise you overheat when you go indoors. Get on a bus, on the Metro, the scarf is unfurled from the neck and maybe put into a briefcase or bag, the gloves go into pockets and the hat comes off as well. We also notice that as soon as the sun comes out in Paris, even for a few minutes, people flock to outdoor tables with their coats on, park benches, etc. Pack less than you think you'll need.

We had dinner two years ago on New Year's Eve at Rotisserie Beaujolais. It's the same owners and right next door to La Tour D'argent. Right on the Seine. But its a Bistro and not half as expensive! It was good! Way too many courses and way too many tourists, but we enjoyed it. I can't remember but I think it was about 85 Euros?? Anyway, John Talbott, thank you for your advice. We think you are right. This year we are going to join our friend and her 14 yr old daughter who loves oysters --on New Year's eve! We'll bring over to their apartment near the Place D'Italie some oysters, pate, maybe rotisserie chicken, cheese, bread, etc and eat with them. Then we'll take our romantic selves and our bottle of champagne to one of the Ponts and shout Bon Annee with the all the other romantic couples!

We go every year between Christmas and New Year's. Usually spend a week somewhere exploring a new section of France and the second week in Paris. Or vice versa. It's EXTREMELY COLD! I used to try to be somewhat in fashion, not I just wear my thickest, ugliest coat and wear t shirts under my sweaters and leggings under my slacks and look like the Michelin woman! Of course, we walk and take the bus everywhere. We're big on just getting on a bus line and exploring neighborhoods. For that reason, I recommend the 5 day or 3 day Paris Visite pass for the Metro/Bus. You can get off and on as much as you like. If you see a shop, get off. If you don't like the neighborhood, get back on! The markets are generally open. We've done the market tour, and I'm sure someone on this thread has a link to which days which ones are going on. You'll see the "truffle people" at some markets. My favorite was a lady in a fur coat and hat, looking quite classy, selling truffles! Vin Chaud is everywhere! It's delicious! It's warm red wine with a shot of, I think brandy or cointreau or something. Small shot. Cinnamon too, I think. Very warming to stop in a bar and stand at the counter (cheaper) and order one...(then you can use their bathroom!) The Alsace places are good for winter months! Try Chez Jenny (or any of the others) and order any of their Charcroutre...sausages and sauerkraut. I usually only eat a bite or two of the saurkraut, but the different types of sausages and hams are great and warming. They even have fish charcroute! The windows of the department stores are fun! Always clever and inventive and usually lines! I'm sure there's other things we're missing...but maybe we'll see you there! We're in the Saumur (Loire) for the first week and in Paris-first the Marais and then Place D'Italie after that!

Yes, we usually tip. At least a dollar. Sometimes more if they don't weigh it and if there are lots of us. Went to a new place in Paris that had great interesting flavors on the left bank. I have to find my notes, but I do remember Caramel avec beurre sale that was outrageous. Dammond is the name of the place.

It's that time of year! Has anyone seen any in Paris restaurants? (I know there's probably plenty down in the Bleu D'Auvergne area!)

Madhur Jaffrey has the most simple, delicious, beet and tomato soup that uses fresh beets, but you don't have to boil them! Just push them through a sieve/china cap (I put on thin latex gloves) and add fresh tomatoes and spices and you're done!

We go to France (including Paris) every Christmas for many years now. We also leave Christmas day or the day after. Yes, it is VERY cold! I've learned not to worry about fashion and just wear a heavy coat! We often buy the Paris Visite card and just ride around on buses and see neighborhood's. Not as cold that way! Christmas Day and New Year's Day, most restaurants are closed except for the big bistros that were mentioned....lots of people just go to the department stores outside, since they are closed, and look at the wonderful holiday windows! We will be in Saumur this time, but coming back to Paris in time for New Year's.... Try Chez Jenny or Marty, although we weren't really thrilled there (Marty) last New Year's day.

6 ounces Barilla Elbow pasta. 1 clove garlic. 1 small red hot pepper. Very good olive oil. TONS of grated monterey jack with jalapeno peppers. Mix well.

We go every Christmas/New Year's to France. Sometimes the country. Last year Gordes in Provence. Sometimes Paris. Two years ago Rotisserie Beaujolais because La Tour D'argent was outrageously expensive as was a lot of places. We had fun there and then went onto one of the Pont's with a bottle of fizz and shouted in the New Year's with people on their balconies and kissed and drank champagne from the bottle.... This year we'll be at a flat in the Marais, although it doesn't matter transportation wise, because it seems all the metros are open late on New Year's. So: Bistro recommendations, etc. for good food, not too touristy? Does anyone know if La Regalade or Chez Jenny or Juveniles, etc. etc. has anything? Or any other recommendations would be welcomed. Merci et Bon Annee!