Peter Rodgers

I can report a weekend of very successful eating, just concluded yesterday. An exceptional dinner was had at Il Centro in Priocca. This restaurant is better each time we visit. We also had our usual wonderful lunch at I Bologna in Rochetta Tanaro. Both restaurants are very traditional. As reported elsewhere, perhaps to best cooking in the region is to be found at Antica Corona in Cervere. We had a superb dinner there Friday night. Unfortunately, we were quite disappointed with our first visit to Clivie in Piobessi d'Alba. We also returned to La Ciau del Tornavento in Treiso. Since our last visit several years ago, they have completely remodeled with resulting spectacular views of the Barbaresco vineyards, but sadly, the food was mediocre. While not on our list this time, it would be worthwhile to pay a visit to Trattoria della Posta in Monforte d'Alba and to l'Enoteca in Canale. Unfortunately, most of the suggested restaurants are a bit distant from Acqui Terme, but a journey for lunch to any would be very much worth your while.

Assuming that you do not have to struggle with Customs, I heartily endorse the suggestion that you go to Richmond (five minutes from the airport) for Chinese food. The Chinese food in Richmond is the best in the region (and maybe on the West Coast). If you do, suggest dim sum at Jade (assuming you are talking lunch) or San Sui Wah. If you are there @ dinner, go to San Sui Wah or the Kirin Richmond. In either case, make sure you have a live crab in salt and chile!

Echoing Deborah's view, the best prospects for Chinese are in Richmond, but you would need a car. If you have one, consider the Sun Sui Wah, the Jade, Kirin Richmond and the Fisherman's Terrace (in the Aberdeen Shopping Center near Cambie and No. 3 Road. Dim sum is especially good at Jade. Avoid the restaurants in Vancouver's Chinatown. Instead, try one of the Kirin branches downtown (Alberni Steet and Cambie at 12th); the Sun Sui Wah on Main is also worth a visit. For Japanese, the best is still Tojo's, although Guu is getting rave reviews here.

On a four day visit to our second home in Vancouver, managed to keep the following pace (and arrive back home in the East, several pounds heavier): Dinner at the bar at Feenie's Duck leg confit salad -- oops, forgot to ask that they hold the blue cheese; Pappardelle Bolognese -- super, as always. Could have this dish every week. Dim sum at Kirin Mandarin: Great pot stickers and sticky rice; Not so wonderful har gow and steamed pork buns. Dinner at the Octopus Garden Could not get a seat at the sushi bar; said they didn't take reservations, but in fact the seats were reserved for others; not happy; good tempura; very average nigiri sushi. Lunch at Rodney's Oyster House Very good Pacific oysters -- three kinds; New England clam chowder could use work; Love the atmosphere. Dinner at West: An amazing creamless Cauliflower soup; A citrusy tuna tartare, as tasty as I have had; A chef's surprise gift of risotto with shaved Alba truffles -- couldn't do better in Piemonte; A rich, winey, braised port belly that was the night's special; All in all, surely a good as it gets in Vancouver; David Hawksworth never rests on his laurels. Dim sum at San Sui Wah on Main: Terrific dim sum from the carts, including great pot stickers, perfect sticky rice in lotus leaf and excellent steamed har gow and peanut dumplings.

To my mind, one of the sadder culinary developments of the last year or so was the seeming break up of the Alciati family and the closure of the original "Da Guido" in Costigliole d'Asti. To be sure, the restaurant had lost much of its edge (and the food arguably was considerably better elsewhere), but neither successor seems to the combination of tradition, great celler and extraordinary service that drew us back to the original a dozen times and more. I'm curious as to whether you have had a chance to dine at either of the new restaurants and particularly what you might have thought about Ugo and Piero Alciati's venture at Pollenzo.

Expect to be there in about ten days. Did Chef David tell you how long he expected the Alba truffles to last?

You will not have a problem keeping within $100 US at any of the superb Chinese restaurants in Vancouver. First choice for a dinner meal downtown (dim sum as well) would be the Kirin Mandarin on Alberni Street. Somewhat more removed from the downtown area but accessible with a car is the San Sui Wah on Main Street. Other fabulous choices can be found in the bustling Richmond area near the airport, including the Richmond branches of both restaurants above and a very good newcomer called the Oriental Delight. Japanese food will be more expensive. The name place in town is Tojo. You can still escape for less than $100, but other choices (for example the Octopus Garden) are somewhat less expensive for very good sushi.

I'd appreciate thoughts on where to head for impeccable sushi in Vancouver proper, other than at Tojo. I'm looking for a place where I can sit at the sushi bar, talk to the sushi chef and be assured of very fresh fish and perfect sushi rice (fancy cooked and other preparations not necessary). I not inclined to go to Tojo this trip (although I like it), as I am not interested in sitting at the bar and eating only what Chef Tojo wants to serve, and I find sitting at his tables to be less than thrilling, especially as I will be dining alone.

Does anyone know if Chambar is on track to be open by the 1st of July, and if so what their weekday ours of operation will be?

Wish I had been there, Bill. I could taste every dish on that menu at Trattoria della Posta just reading your review. What am I supposed to do when sitting in DC having a craving for that panna cotta?

Cioppino is a good choice; Bis Moreno lacks consistency, I think. A still solid standby is Piccolo Mondo and for more casual food, try Cin Cin.

First day lunch at La Luna nel Pozzo and then dinner at L'Ennoteca in Canale, the latter a bit disappointing. Day two, lunch at I Bologna (as usual excellent and much fun); dinner at Antine (first time for us and quite promising, I think). Day three, lunch at Il Centro (as I noted in an earlier post, I think some very good things are happening here, and we love the family); dinner at Guido in Pollenzo (again, as mentioned, not running on all cylinders, hope that improvement is in the offing). Last day, skipped lunch and had dinner at Trattoria della Posta (I think I like the restaurant better at lunch, but the food was excellent, especially their version of tagliarin al sugo di carne and the heavenly panna cotta). Be sure to give us a complete report after your visit.

I am very fond of La Luna nel Pozzo. As usual in the area, family run, anchored in regional products and tradition, but has a bit of a lighter, creative twist to the cooking. We have lunched there perhaps half a dozen times and never have seen the kitchen stumble. The service in this small, unpretentious room is provided by the padrone, a very distinguished gentleman, who I believe is a retired teacher or professor. A great wine list to boot. Well worth the trip to Neive (and worlds better than la Contea). Almost made it to da Renzo this last trip in March, which judging from reports here is rather good, but we ran out of appetite after seven significant meals in four days.

The food possibilities are endless and virtually everywhere you go (other than the main highway from Asti to Alba), the countryside will be breathtaking. To get the best of both, consider a drive from Barolo to the southeast, which takes you, among other places, to Monforte d'Alba. Be sure to have lunch at Trattoria della Posta. Or if you want to take in the Barbaresco vinyards, head northeast to the town of Barbaresco or to nearby Neive. I would recommend lunch at La Luna nel Pozzo in Neive. Lastly, for one of the most authentic of the traditional restaurant destinations, try driving north to Rochetta Tanaro and lunch at I Bologna. Details on all but I Bologna can be found in the Michelin Red Guide for Italy or on the Michelin website. I you want to make a reservation at I Bologna, the number will come up on a Google search or send me a reply and I can track it down. By the way, of the major towns, Alba is the best. Wonderful food stores and wine stores, as well as a great gastromic book store -- most found on the main walking street.

I've two free nights in Paris at the end of a forthcoming business trip to Europe. Will try to snag a table at Pierre Gagnaire or Guy Savoy for a big deal meal and was thinking about l'Epi Dupin for the other night. Would appreciate reports of any very recent experiences at Gagnaire or Savoy and any suggestions for the second night (in the less exalted category).

We dined at Bis Moreno on the Friday evening after the New Year and came away with reservations. As noted in the earlier post, portions were minimal. Some of the offerings in our five course meal were quite good, others just ok. I was epecially disappointed by the pastas, as we had been expecting something quite extraordinary. Perhaps what struck me most was the relative fusiness of the food, which contrasts with what is happening in other food destinations (especially in NYC) where the focus is on the ingredients and earthiness of the Italian cooking -- taking guidance from places like Piemonte and Emilia Romagna. On the whole, I think the Vancouver dining scene is doing better when the model is French or "West Coast" a la Lumiere and West.

Never would have guessed that Michel Bras was Michel Brasss... I find myself wondering how many time I must have mispronounced his name to his face or to the Madame's on our various visits to Laguiole (also a name easy to mispronounce).

I spent part of my childhood in Genova and Rome. The only decent piece of bread that I had in all those years was the foccacia with onions that could be found at bottom of the Via Veneto and in the port area in Genova. I think that Italy is the only place I've eaten outside of Asia where one can't get a pretty good idea of the quality of the kitchen/management by seeing what the bread is like. Bad bread usally means that I better forget the rest of the meal. So, somewhere along the way, I decided that the sure fire thing to do in Italy was to ditch the bread and head straight for the pasta. My waiste line is still suffering from these tactics. On the other hand, I've never shed any calories in France working my way through the bread offerings.

Sounds like the reference is to the Piemontese version of tagliatelle -- the fresh kind.

I can attest to the story about Da Felicin, as I was the person who the owner hit upon. Very strange indeed, but the good news is that he tracked us down at Trattoria della Posta, where we had a fabulous meal!

Mmm. We have plans to be in Alba in March. Hope to have a happy report from you by then. Agree that the combination of Ugo and Piero give this venture the greatest chance of success. Plus, a merger will allow for a bit more adventure. I have always loved Da Guido, but the menu seemed tired after many years, especially once you got passed the primi piatti. Agree by the way that Trattoria della Posta deserves much greater recognition than it has achieved thus far. By chance did you get to La Ciau del Tornavento in Treiso or to Cantina del Roero in Canale? If so, how did you fare?

We have the same problem -- arriving at YVR at 10 pm, but we need to stay in Richmond in order that we can pick up a care there early the next morning. Anyone know if there is a decent Chinese restaurant in Richmond that stays open late?

So where did you eat?

Curious to know if anyone is aware of whether the second of the Da Guido progeny has opened (the expected restaurant near Alba, as opposed to the supposedly disappointing "Da Guido" at Relais San Maurizio) and if so whether there is a report to be had.