Welcome to part two of our Fine Cooking, Digest with a Difference from the May 2006 issue of Fine Cooking. Some notes on articles. They reviewed Today's Top Toasters. One of their top picks was a KitchenAid toaster (a new product not available until May). They commented that this particular toaster did very well on even toasting when toasting just one slice, but that "with two slices you get one side that comes out a little lighter than the other." I can't recall the last time that I only toasted one slice. I loved the article on Asparagus, and it prompted me add it to the grocery list! Our menu for the second part of this digest includes: Goat Cheese Spread with Herbs & Olive Oil Crispy Breaded Tilapia with Classic Tartar Sauce Risotto Caesary salad (not in the magazine) Chocolate-Raspberry Cookies and Cream Mid-afternoon, I got the Goat Cheese Spread with Herbs & Olive Oil ready: Everything is set out. I used a Wisconsin goat cheese that I really like. For the herbs, I chose chives and parsley -- I knew that would be the most friendly to the kids. The little plastic container that is peeking out has white wine in it. I'm not a big white wine person (it gives me a pretty fierce headache), so when we have extra, I freeze it in two tablespoon amounts. Minced herbs: Mixing the goat cheese, cream, olive oil and wine. I opted not to use the food processor, but stir up in a bowl. The recipe says you might need a bit more cream, and I did. Mixed in the herbs (reserving a teaspoon for a garnish), lemon zest (reserving some for the garnish) and salt and pepper to taste. Tasted and adjusted the pepper up a bit (no measurements specified for s/p). Lined a custard cup with plastic wrap (as per the recipe) and spooned in the spread. Now, there should have been a bit more of the goat cheese mixture than this. Diana walked in the door as I was finishing this up, and before I got it into the plastic wrap, I had to get Heidi off the bus. When I got back inside, a portion of it was sitting atop half a toasted bagel -- Diana's after school snack. This stuff is absolutely wonderful. I liked the chives very much. The lemon was very much in the background, we were aware that it was there. This is definitely an easy-to-spread mixture. Very nice mouthfeel. If I made this again with chives, I would up the quantity of chives. In fact this stuff was so good that I'm thinking of putting it on a menu for a 50th anniversary open house I'm hosting for my parents in June. I also got the tartar sauce ready before the kids got home from school. First, gather ingredients: The recipe did not specify brined or salt-cured capers; I had the latter so that's what I used. The flat-leaf parsley at the market was a little limp, so I snipped off the ends and put the bunch in a glass of water, and it perked up nicely. Mis: Mixed and ready for plastic wrap and the fridge: A quick taste of this makes me very happy! Knowing that the risotto will require a lot of attention, I started to get things ready for the tilapia: Plain country style white bread, crust removed, and made into crumbs in the trust KA. The two eggs and flour container are out. Then, on to the risotto. More ingredient gathering: Hiding in the background is extra-virgin olive oil. I neglected to pull out the salt and include it in the photo of the ingredients. The Rubbermaid Takealong container has very concentrated stock, which I diluted. This is an interesting recipe, because it is more of a technique, offering different suggestions for layering flavors. Given the potential pickiness of my kids, I opted to go with shallots as a base and finish with scallions. Dried mushrooms or saffron had the potential for an "eeww, I'm not touching that" factor. I opted for Romano on the table with the risotto since my kids prefer it to Parmesan. So, I chopped shallots and sliced scallions. One thing I appreciated was a measurable quantity of the shallots. I'm always puzzled when a recipe says "1 medium onion" or "3 large garlic cloves." What is medium or large to you might not be medium or large to me. I set the stock on to heat, and opened the bottle of wine. Then, I sweated the shallots in olive oil and when they were translucent, added the rice. The directions say to toast the rice for about 3 minutes, and that you "should hear a clicking sound when you stir it." Well, mine had that clicking sound from the beginning, so I went with the three minutes. I added the wine: And when it was absorbed, ladled in (actually, scooped out of the stock pot with a 1 cup Pyrex liquid measuring cup) 2 cups of stock, as per the instructions. Now, I've never made risotto before, but I don't remember my brother-in-law adding that much stock initially when he made it. But, I forged ahead. About now, I realized that I had the potential to be in trouble. Risotto doesn't wait, and needs attention, as did the fish, so Diana to the rescue. She read her honors English assignment while stirring risotto, while I got busy with the tilapia. Now, try as I might, I couldn't find four 4 oz fillets, so I opted for five fillets which totaled one pound, and give that we are a family of five, it worked out great. In the above photo, I have everything in place, and the fillets have been salt and peppered. This is a messy process. Meantime, the oil is in a pan and heating, and I test the temp as they suggested (and I usually do) with a few crumbs: It's sizzling, so it is time! Someone during this, I had Peter come in and tear up some lettuce. He took over stirring the risotto so Diana could dress the salad and grate some romano for the risotto. Dinner! Comments: That tartar sauce was absolutely fabulous. Neither Diana nor I generally like tartar sauce, and this was perfect. The red onion added a crunch, the capers a nice salty edge, lemon juice (next time I'd not do 2 t. but 1 T.) just made this right, and kept the sweet pickle relish from making it too sweet. Peter wished I'd doubled the recipe because it would make a great dressing for tuna salad. The fish. We often fix fish, especially when we're at the cabin or ice fishing and catch it ourselves. Normal prep is dip in egg wash (I use one egg beaten with some water, which this recipe didn't call for -- they just used egg). I think cutting the egg with water is a good thing -- the egg doesn't seem so "glumpy." I usually eliminate the flour step (which I didn't think added anything). And, until now, I've done what my MIL always did -- breaded in crushed up saltine crackers. Quite frankly, I'm going to revert to the saltine crackers. This particular might have been easier with drier bread crumbs. The bread crumbs also "glumped" up and didn't provide nearly as crispy a coating as my typical method. Plus, I had a dirty food processor instead of a plastic bag (I crush them in a plastic bag with a rolling pin, which doesn't get dirty) to toss. Further to the fish. A 3-4 oz. fish fillet does not fill up, even with sides, a 10-year old boy who has spent the afternoon racing on a bike for 2 hours, nor does it satisfy a 15-year old girl who has weight training and volleyball practice after school. Depending on who's eating, adjust quantities. The risotto was perfect. I was glad I made it so "plain" because I have leftovers which I will patty and fry. This is not a recipe per se, as I mentioned above, but a technique, with all sorts of suggestions for modifications, which might put some people off -- those who want precise amounts and prescriptions. My one annoyance was that in the introduction, they refer to you to page 72 and their Test Kitchen section for a discussion of rice, when actually, the discussion is on page 74 (the third page of the Test Kitchen section). But, that Test Kitchen section does discuss using leftover risotto to make fried patties. Just after lunch, I got the dessert ready. Actually, I had started on this a couple of days ago, because they suggest creme fraiche (noting that you can use all whipping cream if you'd prefer). Since my market often doesn't have creme fraiche and when they have it, they want an arm and a leg for it, I made my own: Creme fraiche is so easy to make; I wish they'd had a little note about how to make it. But, a quick google reported that I needed to mix 2T of buttermilk with 1 C of cream in a glass jar, let stand at room temp for 12-24 hours -- or until thickened -- and then refrigerate. I had not thawed the raspberries, so I measured out what I needed and gave them a quick defrost in the microwave. The instructions tell you to add sugar to 1 cup of raspberries and sugar to 2 cups -- in separate bowls, and let them sit for a few minutes before mashing them up with a fork. Then, for the sauce (the 2 cups of raspberries), you strain through a sieve, pressing with a spatula to extract all of the juice. Normally when I've made a raspberry sauce, I have combined the raspberries in a saucepan with the sugar and cooked it for a bit. I think it's easier to get every bit of juice when you do it "my" way. I added a bit of lemon juice and kosher salt and had a tasty sauce. The cream and creme fraiche: Whip together with a bit of sugar. They say to use a medium bowl and a hand mixer. I don't have a hand mixer, and my medium bowl seemed too tall and narrow. Whip to tall, firm peaks. Fold in the remaining 1 cup of mashed raspberries, "leaving streaks." I crushed up 15 of the chocolate wafers and folded them in. I transferred it to a different bowl after that and pressed plastic wrap to the surface prior to refrigeration. They suggest scooping this out with an ice cream scoop, but the one I have doesn't have one of those wire things for releasing the scoop. So, the stuff stuck to the scoop and I just used two big spoons. I must admit I was a bit hesitant about this dessert because I am not a big raspberry/chocolate fan, but when I think about it, most desserts with this combo are pretty heavy and there isn't much to cut the intensity of the chocolate and raspberry. But, this dessert was absolutely outstanding. I was hesitant about the instruction to let it sit in the fridge long enough for the cookie bits to soften, but since there is a cookie on the side, it was wonderful. The silky of the whipped, but somewhat more substantial of the softened cookies...divine. This would make an outstanding dessert when entertaining because other than plating, it is all done in advance. It's so pretty and so unusual -- different than the cakes, tarts, etc. which are so often served. One of the neatest things about this meal is that the combo of dishes I chose made this a sort of "a la minute" menu that required more than the two hands I have. So, I called on the kids and we had a lot of fun doing this together.