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vice

eGullet Society staff emeritus
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Posts posted by vice

  1. While McGee has never steered me wrong, I wonder if he might be simplifying the science just a bit for the wider public. There are, as far as I can see, potentially important variables involved here aside from molecule size (see particularly Tom Gengo's excellent post above discussing the possible roles of polarity, protein denaturation, interstitial spaces vs. migration across cell walls, etc.

  2. I'd be concerned about stacking them ,as it would act like a piece of meat twice as thick

    But there's also a good layer of salt in the middle, so might it act like a thick piece of meat curing from the outside in and inside out simultaneously?

    I would still advocate flipping and rotating, which could get a) complicated and b) messy dealing with multiple pieces per bag, as Chris indicates.

  3. I seem to recall Ruhlman mentioning, either in Charcuterie or on his blog, that he hangs his pancetta in the kitchen. Presumably, he has windows there. If you're really concerned about light, you can always wrap it in cheesecloth or muslin.

  4. I grabbed a bottle of La Favorite blanc at Hi-Time while in California, and the little sip I took when unpacking it promises a really remarkable rhum, more powerfully vegetal and aromatic than the Neissens I've had. More soon.

    Interesting, I like La Favorite fine but much prefer the Neisson blanc, which has some meaty quality to it that I just can't get enough of. I agree that the La Favorite is the more vegetal of the two, but I'm not sure I could decide which is more aromatic overall. Both pack a huge wallop, albeit different ones. I'll have to do a side by side tonight.

  5. Brut and French pretty much covers it. Almost all of these Punches are from a time when the only imitation champagnes were needled Jersey cider, and we don't want to go there. You obviously don't need the most distinctive champagne for Punch-making, but neither should it taste nasty. And if it's not brut, that's even more authentic, although I prefer to use the ultra-dry stuff if only to be in better control of the sugar level of the Punch.

    I totally get the brut side of things, but I am a bit curious about the French part, given that quality sparkling wines from other regions are now readily available. Is it a matter of personal preference or is there just something about Champagne champagne that tends to work well in a punch?

    ps. very jealous of all those that have gotten their copy already. mine is in the mail and I can't wait for it to arrive.

  6. From the horse's mouth (well, Craig Schoettler's rather):

    Four Questions for Craig Schoettler

    Dish: How did you get picked to helm Aviary?

    Craig Schoettler: At Alinea we’ve spent some time taking classical, pre-prohibition cocktails and re-interpreting them into edible bites. I was the one who was responsible for coming up with them and making them. It became part of the menu, and now we give you three edible cocktails to start your meal.

    D: Will this be a big part of Aviary?

    CS: It won’t be the foundation of Aviary, though it may be offered. Aviary will be all cocktails, with small, seasonal bites that will have a paired cocktail on the list.

    D: What will the bar look like? Will it be loungy?

    CS: There won’t be a bar—as far as what society’s norm of what a bar is. All the cocktails will be coming out of the kitchen, and the kitchen will be in view of all the guests.

    D: Were you a foodie child prodigy?

    CS: No. I originally wanted to be a pediatric oncologist.

    This still leaves a lot open-ended, but it does shed some light, and justifies some concerns, about the potential for interaction with the bartenders (chefs?) at Aviary.

  7. To the already great list of recommendations, I would just add that you should absolutely get the affogato at Blue Bottle (Ferry building and Mint Plaza locations). For that matter, you should probably get ice cream at both Humphrey Slocombe and Bi-Rite Creamery (both in the Mission). No one has mentioned Una Pizza Napoletana yet, about which there's been a lot of deserved buzz.

    For cocktails, I never fail to stop at Alembic when I'm in the city, but I've had notably great experiences at Nopa, Bar Agricole, and Smuggler's Cove, amongst all the others. Some might scoff, but I also make a stop at House of Nanking whenever possible and I've yet to be disappointed over the course of six years going there.

  8. I have to admit that I've been enjoying REALLY simple drinks lately and the cold version of the Toddy (or Sling) is one that has been quite pleasing to me.

    I hear that. A gnarly head cold had me on the hot kick though. I don't know that I'd have made it through without goodly doses of Lemon Hart or Laphroaig.

  9. Correct, with one caveat: If it's possible that you'll eventually scale up from the Vinotemp to a full-size fridge (the latter will need the humidity increased rather than decreased), it'd be cheaper in the long run to pony up now for a hygrostat with both humifidier and dehumidifier control (see jmolinari's blog post linked above). Just something to think about.

  10. "a small amount of agave nectar isn't going to kill you. Just don't buy into the idea that it's any better for you than plain old sugar or HFCS"

    This is the problem. It's not that it's bad, it's just not better.

    I guess I'm still not sure how it's a problem. In the cocktail world, I don't see people entirely switching over from regular simple to agave syrup due to perceived health benefits (or for other reasons, for that matter). Is the argument that agave syrup is 'not better' flavor-wise?

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