sickchangeup

Stopped in for the new "Tastes of Picholine" menu before the Met tonight (5:30 pm res). The menu is $56 for 3 courses, with $12 for any extra course. This is of course a very nice alternative to paying $92 for 3 courses, with $12 for any extra course, the regular menu price. The "Tastes of Picholine" menu is here (pdf) I personally had the Foie Shabu, the Lobster, the Wagyu and a 3 Cheeses Affine, each course besting the previous one. The Foie Shabu is something pretty unique, and I can appreciate it for that alone. The Fried Vanilla Milk from the lobster dish feels like a Ko element, even though it predates it. It's fried (and therefore not particularly refined), it's creative, it's paired with something lux and it's pretty f'ing good. I guess it was the relative lack of refinement that made it feel slightly out of it's element among the septuagenarian set. The Wagyu Rib Eye was from Texas, a grade 6 combination of Wagyu and Angus, and was REALLY good. I had mine black and blue, and they weren't far off - just really really delicious. And of course the cheeses, just the highlight of the meal. As for my first overall impression of the restaurant, I feel like it's a big time all-star athlete who's a cut above the rest, but who still occasionally blows a really routine play for whatever reason. When something didn't slip through the cracks, service was really very good - drinks filled, captain checking in conscious of your time, all levels of staff working together, warm greetings all around. But several small things did slip through the cracks in our short time there - dish not recited here, markings set incorrectly there (fish spoon for meat course), amuse forgotten (table next to us), napkin cleared (not refolded) when my wife used the restroom right after dessert but before enjoying coffee/mignardises. And this impression wasn't limited to the front of the house. My wife's Steamed Sea Bass was great, but with the skin left on, and nothing more powerful than a completely blunt fish knife, it was near impossible to tear through. The butter was set in a small round bottomed dish that wobbled around violently anytime you tried to knife yourself a piece of the pat. A butternut panna cotta with apple gelee amuse brought an instant mental association with baby food (which I'm rarely around). All of which are minor complaints that shouldn't individually distract from a very generously discounted price for some very good food. The fact that this is an option for pre-opera/orchestra is frankly sensational. The cheeses are just off the charts good, and even the worst dish of the evening was a dish we wouldn't at all mind eating again. On this particular day, the restaurant was not slammed, Chef Brennan came out twice to walk around and take in the atmosphere. At this price its safe to say we'll be back before the next show at Lincoln Center, but perhaps not otherwise since it's a touch out of the way for my usual routes.

If that happened I would not have paid for the entrees. That stinks, at any joint.

I'm gonna guess that was meant to be tAstes. Either that or I stepped away during the offal course.

So wait did you expect to pay for the dessert and not the entrees? And did she immediately clear your plates away, or leave them for you to finish? If she left them, and you agreed to have a free dessert brought, then I'm with her on this one. If you had replied "You know what, we don't have the time for another entree to be brought out, can we just have the bill?" then there is no way she could have charged you for the entrees. (BTW, I am assuming this isn't a hoity toity Michellin place, and just a regular restaurant when i say what I say).

I would categorize the regularly recurring (regardless of season) items separately from the others. Stuff like: - Salmon Cornets - Oysters & Pearls - White Truffle Oil Custard with Black Truffle Ragout - Coffee & Donuts - Torchon (in it's various mutations: black truffle, duck, goose) - "Smoke" (in it's near infinite variations) Then separately, yeah there are other signature dishes that are almost all from the French Laundry cookbook, but which don't pop up on menu's that often. I don't know enough to list these off, but from observation: - Bacon & Eggs - Hand Cut Tagliatelle with Black Truffle - Carnaroli Risotto with White Truffle

We didn't arrange for anything in advance, the food charge was standard, 275 + 30 for the foie courses + tax (we wound up drinking up a storm though!). I think once the restaurant caught on to the quirky (and somewhat humorous I'm sure) circumstances of this meal, 4 random eguletters who had never spoken, they chose to send out a few extra small format dishes for us to enjoy. I've also been there a fair bit lately and have gotten to know a few of the captains, including the one who took care of us Sunday - I'm sure that helped some. As Seth wrote, it's not unusual for the restaurant to add a few courses once they get to know your tastes better, although in my experience as a non-VIP, it was usually a few here and there (i.e. not as many as Seth described). From what I've gathered reading bits from all over (and this is pure speculation), both Per Se and French Laundry make a conscious effort to deliver a relatively standard meal to truly new guests, and not make the assumption that everyone is a foodie and would even want to try more things. Once they get to know you some (and part of this responsibility is yours), and come to understand that this would be a welcome thing (if it is), they go from there in future visits. Of course UE's 2008 meal stands as the ultimate documented soire'd meal that I've seen.

Although I'm sure its happened many a time in the grand history of eG, this meetup came together lightning fast, and carried with it some high stakes. 4 complete strangers, hundreds of dollars invested in each others company, less than 1 day planning, and the top restaurant in town. Worst case scenario, you spend some $300+ dining in the company of people you come to loathe as desert can't arrive fast enough. Best case scenario? Everyone has a good time, your captain hooks you all up and you wind up on the verge of crying uncle some 14 courses and 4 hours later, having eaten some of the best food on the planet. And that was Sunday. Between gougeres, cornets, pumpkin veloute, oysters & pearls, tartare of australian hiramasa, brioche crusted smelt, truffle custard, torchon, 6 forms of salt, halibut, scallop, poularde, calottes, pecorino, sorbet, coffee & donuts, dessert and mignardises we got along as well as you would expect foodies to in the ultimate foodie setting. Through discussions of the economy, egullet, clothes, food & drink, consensus was formed that service at a restaurant could really only get this good and not better. That we couldn't possibly eat more. That the truffle custard was the consensus winner of the signature dishes we sampled on this day. That beer was invented in China, who's original recipe we got to try (by way of an Italian brewer). That we still have no clue what happens to the rest of that poularde after it get's taken away and only the breast returns. And that in the end, after it's all over, we get a tour of the space, get handed a copy of our menu, some florentines to take home, and that they can't wait to serve us again next time. A few handshakes are exchanged in the garden, and we're on our way. Friends? Not quite, the food was the focus, not enough free time to make friends. But after a meal like that, certainly no longer strangers either. Here is the only picture I remembered to take, our Poularde presented whole:

Compelled by this video, I went ahead and ordered the fried chicken from Perry St this week. Before I proceed, I have to admit my timing was bad. I had just eaten at Willie Maes Scotch House a few weeks earlier, and the original Popeye's taboot. And truth be told, it compared quite favorably in some ways, better in others, but worse overall. If you compare it to something more normal by way of NY fried chicken, this is definitely very good. The whipped batter really is the great thing about this piece of chicken. The crunch and the lightness of the batter is really really great. It just stays crunchy, almost no matter what. The worst part for me, and it looks this way in the video as well, is that the chef basically blackens the chicken skin in the pan before dipping it in the batter. It's just... well.. burnt, and not appetizing - tasted acrid to me. This isn't a slow and deliciously rendered piece of golden skin, it's a black burnt one (the video shows this too it appears, right after the 2 minute mark). The thigh meat was the best piece by far, and really very close to the delicious Willie Maes chicken I had in NOLA. The breast piece wasn't. The smoked chicken gravy was also very good, although very salty. The lemon zest was detectable, and a nice addition I thought. It's hard to complain about fried chicken (joining a tuna burger, the chicken sandwich, and I noticed this for the first time - maybe it's just me - but they have a beef burger too) on a 1 star michellin menu, and I'm not complaining. But to my taste, it could actually be even better, and get seriously competitive with some of the best chicken out there. I also think the prices took a tiny dip from the last time i went, probably cause the place had plenty of empty seats. Still, nice that the prices may have gone down, very easy to eat dinner for cheap there.

If you guys are interested in joining up, just exchange details then call the reservation line and either they can handle or ask to speak to the matire'd on the floor. Chances are you'll go to the GM or assistant GM, who can easily (and gladly) handle this request.

You guys should all sitemail each other and get a table together!

Maybe it's selfish of me, but I've loved it. The best restaurant around, and I can go on a whim, especially cause I prefer to dine there at 5:30 or 6:00. Nothing better :-)

If you steer away from tasting menus, then food at Corton and EMP should not leave you stuffed at all. Both have lighter options as well. And a 2 course lunch at JG will be light as well if you chose not to supplement. I usually tell our friends that 2 is a very light lunch, 3 is a regular lunch and 4 courses is a large lunch. I'm guessing you'll leave Katz's far fuller than any of the places above. Even more so than being on "discount", or having tons of official specials (which really haven't reached the likes of Atelier, Corton & EMP - save lunch perhaps at the latter) it is the increased focus and appreciation for pleasing the customer that I've really come to enjoy in this recession (in a silver lining sort of way - that and it's FAR easier to get reservations). I just got back from a quick dinner at a local Indian chain, and the place has been cleaned up and their service is much more appreciative. Even the cooks appear to be focusing more on turning out the food as best as they can. Restaurants that aren't doing this simply have no chance IMO, and many realize just that. The consumer who can still afford to eat out is gaining big time from this. Speaking of which, staying at the FS and eating at Atelier.. I couldn't help notice the absence of Per Se on the list. If you can afford it, they are just eons past any other restaurant in the city right now (IMO), they seem to be at their all time best. And it's not hard at all to get a resy either.

That's great, that's my favorite time. I either go for lunch on Sunday (just a great way to spend the day - regardless of whether I eat 5 or 9 courses), or go for a very early dinner reservation during the week - both of which are achievable these days through opentable. Let us know how it goes!

Those are great photos UE, I'm very jealous! The photo where he is holding up the pineapple with two forks mid twirl definitely captures the most impressive part quite well.

Has anyone ever witnessed the table side pineapple carving show? The GM (apparently JG's brother, Philippe (sp?) Vongerichten) took center stage in the middle of the room at lunch today, and starting with a whole untouched pineapple, proceeded to spend about 15 minutes peeling it, then slowly rotating/carving it with a pairing knife (so as to remove all the eyes using multiple fancy diagonal cuts), then cored it and sliced three little slices for the VIP's who sat there very amused. Apparently it's finished off with a drizzle of honey and some sort of sugar sprinkle. Was quite the show, the GM was quite graceful in wrestling with it. Definitely reminded me of showmanship I might expect in Paris, but have not come to expect at JG. As for lunch, the $8 supplement on the scallops were back the past two visits, so apparently they thought better of removing that. There was once again a special, and one again it was the crunchy rabbit. Had the egg for the first time, which was very generously topped and then also filled with caviar, which I didn't expect. Was very very good, but not sure I feel a burning desire to repeat the experience at the extra cost. Service was unusually sloppy with the exception of one bus boy who very vigilantly refilled our ice-teas and simple syrup. The runners and the captain were just dropping food and sauces off diner style, one empty "holding" plate (I had one extra course than my wife) literally rattled around for a while before settling down. The pour on the halibut was done so quickly it knocked mushrooms off the fish and entirely diluted a spot of the pre-plated sauce, no grace in sight. It was my first time with this captain, so maybe someone new. The only other change I noticed in the menu was the sweetbreads are now being paired with sweet potato ravioli instead of licorice. Hopefully soon we move into spring time items.

Since Per Se never posts their lunch menu's online, I figured I'd share the lunch menu format we've enjoyed for the $175: - gougeres & salmon cornets to start - "dish" with caviar quenelle. Today was a cauliflower panna cotta, also had a Heart of Romaine Lettuce Mouse in the past. This course is effectively in the spirit of the "Oysters & Pearls" on the dinner menu. - First bread service with 2 butters - Usually next you have a choice, either involving a soup/veloutte, or a cold dish (tartare) or a smaller meat course (have had choice of garlic sausage or pastrami here) - Fish Course - 2nd bread service - Meat Course - Dessert (just the one choice) - Full Mignardises (same as dinner) By way of comparison, with the full dinner you usually get the Oysters & Pearls to start, then you gain the salad/foie option course, an extra meat course, a cheese course and intermezzo course. (9 vs. 5). Also worth noting that right now it's no longer impossible to find a weekend table (using opentable), even for 2. I guess we have the recession to thank for that.

To be clear, are you saying that the prices for alcohol do NOT include service? I was under the impression that they did. ← Both are right of course, absolutely everything on the menu is priced "service included", alcohol as well.

My favorite is Mary's Fish Camp. Very nice broth, individually cooked seafood (scallop, squid, lobster claw, clams, mussels, piece of fish if I recall correctly), and a nice long crusty piece of baguette toasted hard with garlic mayo. My least favorite has to be from the Grand Central Oyster Bar, was just awful.

$275 dinner/$175 lunch includes all non-alcoholic beverages and gratuity, but does not include tax. So you can order 9 courses, water, virgin mojitos, GUS soda, iced tea & coffee, and pay $275+(275*.08375). If you are interested in doing wine pairings, then I strongly suggest that you view their wine list (available online) in advance of your visit, so you can be comfortable with which glasses and which price points (by the glass) you are comfortable with. They have more than just wine on the online wine menu too, including champagne, beer, sake and non-alcoholic beverages. I would suggest that if you do order alcohol, that you budget both a 20% tip on the "new" alcohol portion of your bill, and the 8.375% sales tax as well. Other costs could include whether you want to upgrade your "salad" course to a foie course ($30-$45). Sorry I can't help with the full wine pairing, I've never done it myself.

Packed house tonight as a winemaker was having a bottle release private party in the back (I wasn't there for this). Got to meet Chef Keller, Chef Benno and GM Esmond, pretty much all hands were on deck I think. Even peaked through at Chef Lee in CA through the plasma. The food was just completely off the charts spectacular, each time I return they seem to take care to learn our tastes and improve the experience without any prompting. Of course it's clear to the staff we care deeply about the food and the restaurant, but we're not regulars per se (pardon the pun) - and I simply have not had better food, but just as importantly, never had better service either. There are many highlights, but off the top of my head: - The beer that Chef Keller commissioned from Brooklyn Brewery is quite remarkable. 750ml Champagne style bottle, Dubbel style beer, it's intensely effervescent, slightly sweet nose but a very subtle flavor for a Belgian style beer. No detectable bitterness. I paired this with the meat courses that follow the fish/langoustine/lobster section of the menu. They insist this brew is part of a "one off" run of a set number of cases, I guess time will tell. - Kitchen freestyled in a veal kidney and a veal sweetbread to accompany the veal on the menu since I had requested any available offal last visit. The kidney was confit'ed in veal fat, cooked sous-vide to rare, then seared quickly on the outside. Absolutely delicious. - If you can arrange to have the tagliatelle with fresh black truffles included or supplemented into your meal, there is simply no conceivable way you'll regret it. This combined with the black truffle ragout in the white truffle oil custard egg dish has completely changed my perception of black truffles. Had one of those fine dining only moments, where we were presented with a whole roasted baby poussin for show (tiny little thing - for 2), before it got whisked away and the plates returned composed but with just a strip of breast meat (studded with black truffle sub derma). Delicious, but where'd the rest go??? :-)

Since the thread got bumped, I'll note that we had the $140 tasting menu recently, and for each tasting menu you order, you can get one bottle of wine at 50% off. I think this offer runs through the end of February, and is pretty damn great. Between the two of us we put away two bottles, one white, one red (both half off). Sommelier/Maitre D' was great, took great lengths to ensure we got the right bottle, including tastes from the bottle by the glass offerings.

Hey, Bruni tried to use his blog for something... blogish!: http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/200...of-web-crawler/ but failed: http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/200...2/exterminated/ Oh, and it turns out he likes Italian food. Who knew?? http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/11/dining/r...ner=rss&emc=rss

The nice part of the library was that it had lights shining down just to the side of our table (the one most towards the back part of the library, opposite the restaurants entrance), so I could just move my plate over off the table a bit and get good enough lighting at dinner time to take the photos I took above (point & shoot & hack).

What was your impression of the back room? Mine was very.... well, I wouldn't want to be sat there...

Off topic, but the Gotham Bar is excellent and has a really great solo dining setup taboot.