KarenS

Delphina is very good. Home is good. Fifth Floor, Masas, Fleur de Lys are great. Scala's Bistro is very good.

I came from the freaky family. My mom made us meudo so many times -trying to slip the tripe in. I have been using chopsticks as long as knives and forks. Very often I prefer the chopsticks (they are cleaner). Did we have prayers? (we were raised Unitarian). War is wrong. Life is about love and rebirth. I love the fact that I sell my great-great-great-grandmothers cookies everday (and people love them). I rejoice in the fact that I have inherited this gift for the love of cooking. My mom has eaten once at McDonalds in entire life.. For me, the last time was 20 years ago. I never eat fast food, it is not a part of my life.

My mom is bringing me (suprise) Porcini from her yard. Last year she had 5#! She lives in Mendocino,CA. I am the 'non scientific girl". I suprised my mom the las time I was there for Thanksgiving. She said "sorry no mushroooms-not enough rain"- uhm- in Mendocino there are other things to do. I was, instantly going to prove my mom wrong. Look under the Monterey Pines in the heavy depth of pine needles. You will only find a slight curve upwards. (I do get creeped out because of the huge instance of lymes disease). I am now miss mega anti tick. White socks(tucked into your sweatpants). A sweatshirt or coat (with a hood)- those ticks, they want to drop down on your head. I have never had a tick in my life- they are my big fear along with tropical centipedes!. Anyway, I found major porcini, and blew my mom away. I placed them all in on of her mushrooming baskets. It was a cool thing for me (I have a mother and father who are mrand mrs brillant scientist(all the one that I would be standing on in the forest when I was younger- perhaps made up for it. I was concerned that she suddenly thought of me as a major rival! I just said that maybe mom, there were a few times that I was paying attention.) Here are a few items of attention: My momwent to Berkeley (and taught there for her entire co/career) My dad is an interesing man. He went to UCLA, Berkeley, and got his doctorate (in zoology). All of this is relative.If money was about knowledege, we would be rich. My greatgrandfather started the jr college system in america. The english library has a huge painting of him. The greek theatre has a chair with his name on it My grandparents went to Berkeley. My greatgrandfather was president of Berkeley.OOh yah, my grandmother was valedictorian of her class at Boalt (I am not sure of the year right now- I think that it was 1926-29). My grandmother gave me all these cookbooks. She also taught me about scarves. I have her recipe for enchiladas from the 20/30s. I have so many amazing recipes. No one had yeast, baking soda or baking powder. This all has a round about way with food . Food has always been so important in my family. I cried when my mom gave me my greatgrandmothers cookbooks. I also have a book that is dated 1852 that I have used cookie recipes from (and learned a lot about yeast). When people ask me about "Mexican food"- well in my family, we have been cooking it (and loving it) for around 100 years!!!)

Masa is not cornstarch, and it is very traditional to use in chilli. It is cornmeal that is used for tortillas, tamales, and to thicken stews and chilli at the end. Plus it is a nice corn taste.

Zuni Cafe salts their chicken stock I have never tried doing that- maybe I will some time.

They don't serve French cheese every night! I think that Chez Pannise is as good as ever. Wolfgang still eats there. Of course the restaurant is a political statement- it is in Berkeley.

Masas is great. Have you heard of the Chef? (Ron Siegal) He was the first American to win the iron chef in Japan. He used to be at Nob Hill- he was enticed to Masas after it was closed and redecorated.

Roxanne is married to a very wealthy man (they met when she was working at Lark Creek Inn- down the street). I have not talked to anyone who has eaten there that has not loved their meal (and most of them are not vegetarians). They donate their profits to charity. She does not need backers.

I meant that Wolfgang loved pizza and saw the oven at Chez Pannise. The same man built their ovens. I would give Chez Pannise another chance. On a good night is soars.

I grew up in Berkeley and have eaten at Chez Pannise many, many times. I am also a Pastry Chef- part of my "road" was being in the little black book- to be called in to work when someone was sick. The ingredients used are really beautiful. Cehez Pannise has built up such a network of farmers and really helped encourage the gowth of beautiful, tasty organic produce. The menus are posted every Thursday for the following week. It is stated that substitutions will be made when the have to be. This is a fresh, seasonal restaurant. I would believe that Alice would call her food Californian in a Medditerraean style. I have tremendous respect for Alice Waters. She has been a huge force in the community. The (other) junior high school (not the one that I went to), had a huge asphalt playground. It had no cafeteria (long gone) but fast food trucks would appear every day. She helped create the edible schoolyard. Children help grow, and cook their lunches. They learn biology, farming, botany, and how to cook. They learn to cook. This has been going on for many years now. Her passion helped it happen. I have worked in many kitchens- California, Europe, and Hawaii. The cooks at Chez Pannise are treated with respect and dignity. The service charge is to provide the cooks with a decent wage (and the servers). I have worked in many restaurants where the hosts were walking with $1000, the servers were making 100,000 a year. The line cooks (talented/ experienced/ educated- were making $8- $10 a hour. We couldn't afford cabs/cars. We would walk home etc... at one or two in the morning. Chez Pannise is not for the people that want Peruvian truffle panna cotta on a tower of triangle chips or, for people who want to be treated like prima donnas. If you want to know what is going on with Californian farmers (where a lot of the food in the US is grown- go to Chez Pannise). For dessert, you won't get a fondant covered pyramid sprinkled with raspberry dust served with a gelee, a foam, and a panna cotta. You will probably get fresh fruit highlighted in some way (a tart, a sherbet, a cake). I love eating at Chez Pannise ( Wolfgang Puck used to eat there all the time before he opened Spago- that is where his pizza oven idea came from, plus his love for pizza).

Hhmm....Peets Coffee, In and Out Burgers, Berkeley Bowl, Chez Pannise, Masas, Delphina, Bay Bread (on Pine), One Market, Home, Crustacean, Lark Creek Inn, The Fifth Floor, Scala's Bistro, THE MISSION DISTRICT! Mexican, El Salvadorean, Guatamalan, Peruvian, Brazilian.... Burritos, pampulsas, tacos, enchiladas, tortillas, agua fresca... The Marin County Farmer's market- I love it! Michael Bauer... not too hot on my list.

I use dried black beans (soaked or brought to a boil- rest 30 minutes covered, throw out the liquid). Then, chicken stock, sauteed garlic and onion, toasted cumin and corriander, cayenne. I add sweated anaheims, jalapenos, a little bit of chipolte if I have it. I use shredded chicken, turkey. I add diced tomatoes, diced pumpkin (I usually use kabocha pumpkin- which is also popular in Mexico). I add a little cinnamon and thicken it with masa. At the end I add fresh corn and fresh cilantro, and fresh oregano.

I can still remember when my mother made a Smithfield ham. She did not soak or boil it long enough. It was sooo salty we could not eat it (much, much more then proscuitto)

Rochelle, Did you know that you can make many types of cake into a roulade? I served 600 portions of a hazelnut and mascarpone-eggnog roulade on Saturday. Pastry instructors are teaching you traditional technique. Now you can take it from there! Nut meal can replce flour etc... Chiffon cake (which is an American development) works well in forming roulades also- the oil in the cake makes them flexible.

I think that it is great! California has had no smoking in bars or restaurants (as well as public place for many years). Hawaii just made restaurants smoke free. Nothing can ruin a meal more then stinky ciggerette smoke. I just wish that Europeans would catch on to the same trend.

If I could not cook (which I can,verywell). I think that I would be employed in the market. In another market, perhaps I should be selling fresh produce and cheese. me

I cook the apples and caramel all at one time on the stove top (you can even use a heavy weight cake pan). I then cool down the pan- then add the chilled and rested flakey pie dough ( it does not have to be puff dough). When apples are in season (and fresh), your choice of apple is not as important. I have been using galas lately. I core and cut the apples in 6 pieces (or in half). For a 10 inch tarte, I might use 2c sugar and 4 oz butter. I put the pan on and just melt the butter and sugar. i add a little water. I take the pan off, add way more apples then I think that I need, and cook on medium high heat. If I notice hot spots, I turn the pan and add a little splash of water. I keep fitting in the apples they cook down (you want a tight fit). I keep checking the apples by turning them over with my spatula). When the apples are caramelised (and your caramel is thick) i pull the pan off the heat. My opinion is that if you cook the caramel separately, you lose a lot of the apple caramel taste. I learned in France that it should all be cooked together in one pan and then add the dough and bake. it does not take much measuring- it is a rustic tart.

Clogs that don't use wood but compressed rubber are my favorite (and I have a bad back too). Sven makes and Sika too. They are much more cushioning (my nurse friends use them too). You can get them with or without a back. The plastic Birkinstock shoes are very popular in our kitchen with the men. I find them too wide in the toes (and they have backs- I hate sweaty feet.). The plus for them is that you can run them through the dishwasher.

Brined turkey is great! I have convinced many cooks and non-cooks to brine turkey. My 8 year old nephew told my sister "to always make it the way Aunt Karen does". He then told me that he was having thirds! It is very easy to do (and the meat doesn't taste salty). The SF Chronicle did a turkey comparison and tasting a couple of years ago. The brined turkey was the winner- chosen by all.

When I am not working, many evenings I can be found in the book store. I love to read (food writers, cookbooks, magazines, novels, etc...) I anticipate new cookbooks hungrily.(I just bought Paris Sweets and Nancy Silverton's Sandwich book). I read Saveur, Food and Wine, Food Arts, and Gourmet (it is so much better since Ruth Reichl became editor). I look at Chocolatier and Pastry Art and Design. I never buy them- they are kind of boring to me. I am not interested in inedible garnishes, or desserts that are triangles on top of a circle, a stick and a tower with 5 dots of sauce. I like desserts that are pretty- at the same time you look at it and go "yum, I want to eat that". I was very lucky to meet Nancy Silverton very early in my career. I think I used to know all her recipes in her dessert book. She has had a huge influence on pastry in the US. I worked at Spago in 1984, and later at Postrio. Nancy let me come and work at Campanile and at La Brea when they opened their first big "factory". Her ovens and retarding tunnels were so amazing to me! She has always been very giving of her knowledge. Working at Spago changed my life- it really propelled me on my pastry journey. There are people out there that really are mentors. You will not make very much money for a long time. Eventually though you CAN make a very good salary. With all the "business stuff" that I am not terribly fond of (well, it is a business!); I still have many days where I am "like whoa, I really love this and what can I make next?" I talk to purveyors constantly, always looking for something fresh and good. I go to farmers markets whenever I can. I read menus online, a various restaurant reviews from all over. I try to check out new places (and yes, my next vacation is going to be to Spain- lets pray that the oil spill does not do much damage). I have learned over the years what I won't do anymore. I won't work 100 hour weeks for cheap tyrants. I won't work for evil, angry, and unhappy people. I work in kitchens where people are treated with respect and dignity. I don't tolerate sexual harassment. As a manager, I don't tolerate swearing. It is offensive to many. I respect (and make) American desserts too. I have met pastry chefs "that don't make fruit tarts" "that don't make pie" "that don't make American layered cakes". I make them because I love them too. American desserts are part of who I am as a Pastry Chef in the US. I also no longer give up my life to my job. If I am finished in 8 hours I do not feel guilty about going home

I am a pastry chef, and I have been one for 12 years. Before that I did savory for 6 years. (which I believe made me much better at pastry). You seem to have a passion about pastry (which is the most important thing). I need to ask you a few questions. 1) How is your physical and mental health? This is a very greuling profession- hard on your body and your mind. Do you think that you could be on your feet for 12 hours? Can you carry 50#? 2) Are you willing to give up your weekends, holidays, and evenings for quite a long time? 3) Can you wake up at 3:30 a.m.? I would suggest working in a restaurant; remember that restaurant work can take awhile to get used to. Many people think that they aren't going to make it at first. See if you can find a place where you can work as a plater for some time. Production (which is tremendous multi-tasking and technique), is something you should also try. You may be able to find a place that would allow you help in cookie dough production or dough production). I went to school (in France) after I had worked every station (plus prep). I was fast and organised as a line cook. One of the hardest things to teach (and learn) is a sense of urgency. Technique is something learned in school and on the job. I have had cooks straight out of school that were used to spending a lot of time on one cake. I have had cooks that didn't learn how to do sheet cakes (or petit fours). If you have the time (and the money) - go beg the pastry chef at the best restaurant that you can think of (and high volumne) if you could volunteer for awhile. My other advice is to go to France. Good luck! If you are obsessed and passionate you are ready for "the journey".

I enjoy making stock too. Whenever my "bags of scraps" in the freezer get to be too much (and my stock supply too low), I take out my great stock pot (with the fitting strainer). I would also feel very wasteful if I didn't make stock. You can definitely taste the difference between a soup or risotto that has been made with base and not with stock- a fake, almost chemical taste. My mom always made stock too (and froze it in ice cube trays and larger containers).

Awbrig, I just saw your message. I blanch the beans in boiling salted water (shock in an ice bath to stop cooking). I like to assemble this ahead of time and keep it refrigerated til right before serving. I line up all the beans in a gratin dish. Toast the hazelnuts. Make your brown butter and stir in the toasted hazelnuts. Pour across your beans (in stripes or whatever) salt and pepper. I heat them in the microwave in their serving dish (my oven space is usually full of other things). I like to use blue lake beans.

Awbrig, I just saw your message. I blanch the beans in boiling salted water (shock in an ice bath to stop cooking). I like to assemble this ahead of time and keep it refrigerated til right before serving. I line up all the beans in a gratin dish. Toast the hazelnuts. Make your brown butter and stir in the toasted hazelnuts. Pour across your beans (in stripes or whatever) salt and pepper. I heat them in the microwave in their serving dish (my oven space is usually full of other things). I like to use blue lake beans.

I am a pastry chef who uses ultra fine sugar every day. There is no difference in measuring it. I don't cream butter for cookies on high speed though; I use a low speed for a longer period of time. I also use cool butter, not room temp. My father (a scientist) said the same thing about cane and beet sugars being the same. You are wrong. They perform differently. Beet sugar is more difficult to caramelise. Try them side by side if you don't believe me. Dark brown sugar has more molasses (you are right, more moisture). I belong to a group (Baker's Dozen) as does Fran Gage. We tested both sugars (also we tested what a cup of brown sugar weighed- totally inaccurate measurement, everyone had a different amount).I find cane sugar superior to use in baking.