Felonius

No BYOW? Bummer. The last thread I saw here said that there was a $10 corkage. I'm just sorry I didn't find this place in time to drink a few good bottles of Bordeaux. I wonder if their evening business will continue to be strong without the BYO policy. The food may be great and the price fantastic, but even for a lunch spot the service was terrible and there is no atmosphere. It took me an hour and a half just to get them to bring me a burger and dessert, and the entire time I was getting drenched by rain from a hole in the roof above. If I can't BYO, I doubt I'd be too excited about the NY strip for $ 26.95 (current menu price). I can get a killer dry aged strip at Sparks or Smith and Wollensky for about $ 32.00. Given the quantum leap in ambience and service for the extra $6, Fairway probably ceases to be a bargain without the BYO factor. As Fat Guy warned months ago, the Fairway gig was too good to last.

I haven't had the chocolate pizza, but will try it next time. Feel free to have the tarte tatin on your next visit, but it's your twelve bucks , not mine. For the life of me, I just don't understand why anyone would think it was an interesting dessert on any terms. I had hoped to order the "baba" you mentioned, but didn't see it on the lunch menu. The baba au rum at ADNY is one of the most satisfying things I've ever eaten in my life. Simple but out of this world. If I could get it a la carte at Mix, I'd eat there once a week for that reason alone. I'd guess that the real baba, while simple in concept, is incredibly difficult to execute (much like a great souffle). So I doubt I'll ever see the real deal on the Mix menu, or any other menu outside of ADNY for that matter. I agree with your comments about the rose ice cream. Too bad, because I thought it was an exceptional "3rd of Mix".

Fat Guy's description of the Bison got me thinking and.....next thing you know I'm back at the bar ("Bar of Mix"?? ) for lunch. The Bison was superb - cooked to perfection, tender as Bison can be, flavorful, and surprisingly elegant for bison. The presentation was simple - reduction sauce, cracked peppercorn, and a few vegetables. I only received one piece of bison, instead of the two tenderloins Fat Guy describes. Maybe this is a lunchtime thing, but not sure why as the price should be high enough at $36 to make it a regular serving. Either way, it was plenty for my lunchtime appetite. The real highlight of the dish for me was the horseradish/meat/gelee garnish arleady well described by FG. I only wish they'd brought another cup of that stuff! I had a glass of Newton Merlot ($15 per glass), which I thought paired well with the bison. The bison is mild enough that believe it or not, a heavier cabernet or young Bordeaux might actually overpower it. I reached for the dessert menu and was interested to see that the raspberry and rose ice cream concoction has been pulled. I'll bet that the critics finally got to Ducasse on this one. Too bad, as I really enjoyed it on my last visit. I wanted something on the light side, so I tried the apple tarte tatin. In my humble opinion, this dessert is a complete loser, and I'm sorry I forked out $12 for it. A nice presentation in a glass dish, with a layer of apples, a dollop of vanilla ice cream, and an O-shaped cookie/biscuit hovering at an angle above like one of Saturn's rings. That's where the excitement stops however. This desconstructed tart made no sense to me. The best thing about a great tarte tatin is how the crunchy/fluffy pastry intermixes with the warm apples, caramalized sugar crust and cold ice cream. Mix's version had none of this synergy. Basically it was if someone scooped out the cooked apples from a regular pie, dropped them at room temperature into a dish, threw a scoop of vanilla on top, and threw a cookie in. Big deal. Not only was this dessert boring for a high-end restaurant, it would be boring if I'd paid $4 dollars for it at Les Halles (which does a much better tarte tatin IMHOP). I have no idea what the Mix pastry chef was thinking when he cobbled this version together. As for the architecture, I think the room and the eccentric touches (i.e. LED's and lighted script seen through a glass bar counter) are kind of cool. I like the contrast with the formality of ADNY. My only gripe is the unisex bathroom thing. The setup is so confusing, they've hired a poor bastard who's only job is to stand around and give everyone instructions prior to doing their business - "zees one is for you madame, zee water sweetch is on zee floor where you can step, pull zee handle from above for zee toilette". This is just plain silly. In addition, when I'm spending $100+ on dinner with the chi chi crowd, the last situation I want to encounter is having to make an emergency run to the restroom for some serious business, knowing the whole time that a bunch of supermodels and kept women in Prada are pacing two feet outside the door of the unisex can waiting for me to finish. Ughhh! I think I'd have to risk a dash to the Essex House Men's room instead. Whoever brought the concept of unisex bathrooms to upscale NYC establishments ought to be shot! The only appropriate place for unisex bathrooms is the porta-john line at the county fair, end of story. Those gripes aside, the food I've had so far at Mix (with the exception of the tarte tatin) has been extremely creative and delicious, and I suspect this place will become a fairly regular stop for me. I'd highly recommend it to anyone on this board. If you're interested in trying it without breaking the bank, order a la carte at the bar for lunch or try the pre-theater prix-fixe (Le Must de Mixe Prix Fixe??? )

I did take home a bag of the chocolates. They were pretty good, if I remember correctly. I especially liked a spicy version that had a nice chili bite to it. Lots of competition on the chocolate scene in NYC these days it seems. I'm a big fan of Payard's chocolates, and recently was given a box of chocolates from a place called "Marie Belle" that were also fantastic. But those are topics for another thread. The thought of burgers and chocolate is making me hungry. I'm going to make another pilgrimmage down to the Lunchbox place and give it a second try soon.

Well, I figured if I had any hope to be accepted into the Burger Club at this late date (I've been away from NYC for a few months), I'd better do my research. I've gone back and read through the BC Opus and am ready to go! I know there's a long list of burger joints but here are a few suggested additions: All State Cafe J.G. Mellon's Lunchbox Food Company All State is one of my favorites, and I plan on going back this week to directly compare this burger to the one I had at Fairway today. J.G. Mellon's has a very loyal following in NYC, but then maybe this relegates it to "overhyped" status, much like Corner Bistro. I haven't been there in a while, but remember enjoying the JGM burger very much in the past. I went to Lunchbox Food Co. in May on a tip from a waitress at Chanterelle, who said it was the best burger she'd had in NYC. At the time, I felt it was indeed a contender in NYC. I'll revisit this place to and post back. Anyone here tried this place? It's in an old diner on the West Side highway down in the Village. Kind of a funky place with upscale burger/bistro food and homemade chocolates.

Perhaps I can smuggle the appropriate bar ware and ingredients to the next burger club meeting, so we can sample a burgertini with the main course then. So long as someone creates enough distraction for the waitstaff so I'm not arrested for bartending without a license.

How's about a burgertini? 3 oz. chilled gin (or vodka for communists) Hint of dry vermouth Splash of burger juice Garnished with two pickles and/or cocktail onions

Yet another great dining tip from eGullet. Had my first lunch there today. I live a few blocks away and had no idea about this somewhat hidden gem until finding some threads here. For lunch I ordered the cheeseburger with fries and coleslaw, and a chocolate gallette. Here I'll repost my burger description from the Burger Club thread, along with additional food comments: I had a cheeseburger (cheddar), rare, with fries for $8. A superb burger IMHOP. Good flavor to the meat, with a slight gaminess to it, almost a bit like lamb. This may not sound too appetizing to some, but to me it was. I suspect they use very high quality meat, and I wonder if it is slightly aged. The burger was a good size, maybe 1.5 inches thick and 4 inches in diameter. A light char on the surface, and cooked what I'd call closer to medium rare than the rare I requested. The bun was nothing out of the ordinary, but soft not toasted. The meat was juicy but did not as fatty as many a burger. I wonder if this is due to higher quality or leaner cuts used. I would have preferred a bit more seasoning to the meat (maybe some salt, white pepper, etc.), but I like to season my own burgers with a secret mix, so maybe I'm biased. I'd say the Fairway burger is an excellent choice for the burger "purists", those who seek high quality meat and want nothing else distracting from this. I still prefer the burger at All-State Cafe, with a bit more seasoning and fat, sweet grilled onions, and some sloppy bacon and cheddar. I guess I'm more of a trashy burger kinda guy, than a burger gourmet. I loved the fries. The were well browned and crispier than most, with just the right amount of grease. I ate every last one. Side of coleslaw was also excellent. Cabbage pieces were of all different sizes and shapes, not at all uniform, which gave the slaw an interesting texture. Not your textbook coleslaw, but very satisfying. I barely had room for dessert, but couldn't resist after reading Fat Guy's description of the Chocolate Gallette (round chocolate cake with a warm molten center, served with a scoop of vanilla ice cream). Yeah Baby! This was easily as good as comparable versions appearing at NYC's three and four star venues, for under $5! I suspect I will consume many more of these before the year is out. I eyeballed the food at tables around me, and everything looked fantastic. The mediterranean salad plates, a steak sandwich, a grilled tuna steak, salad nicoise, onion soup, etc... While I only tried the burger, I'd guess that the quality of food-to-price ratio here is about the best to be found in Manhattan. I overheard a guy next to me exclaim to his significant other "every time I see this dish it brings a big smile to my face", as he happily dug into a beautiful assortment of couscous and mediterranean grilled vegetables topped with a mound of fresh salmon. The look on his face is the best review anyone could give Mitchel London's spot at Fairway.

As mentioned previously, the burger pictures on this thread enticed me to opt out of healthy lunch and go burger hunting today. Paid my first visit to Mitchel London's place at Fairway on 75th and Bway. I had a cheeseburger (cheddar), rare, with fries for $8. An excellent burger IMHOP. Good flavor to the meat, with a slight gaminess to it, almost a bit like lamb. This may not sound too appetizing to some, but to me it was. I suspect they use very high quality meat, and I wonder if it is slightly aged. The burger was a good size, maybe 1.5 inches thick and 4 inches in diameter. A light char on the surface, and cooked what I'd call closer to medium rare than the rare I requested. The bun was nothing out of the ordinary, but soft not toasted. The meat was juicy but not as much so as many a burger. I wonder if this is due to higher quality or leaner cuts used. I would have preferred a bit more seasoning to the meat (maybe some salt, white pepper, etc.), but I like to season my own burgers with a secret mix, so maybe I'm biased. All in all, I'd say the Fairway burger is an excellent choice for the burger "purists", those who seek high quality meat and want nothing else distracting from this. I still prefer the burger at All-State Cafe, with a bit more seasoning and fat, sweet grilled onions, and some sloppy bacon and cheddar. I guess I'm more of a trashy burger kinda guy, than a burger gourmet per se (two points back at ya FG). Fries and dessert were excellent, but that's not the point of this thread now is it? I'll write a bit more on other food items at Fairway on the Mitchel London thread.

I do. Have you ever been? I'm no expert on NYC burgers, but I think the ones at All-State have a lot of flavor. They also come with grilled onions on request, and I'm a big fan of a sloppy bacon cheeseburger with grilled onions. Hope this doesn't offend any burger club purists. I also am a fan of All-State because it's one of the few places on the UWS that hasn't been completely yuppified, and is populated by a friendly group of regulars. I'm not sure their burger could compete with some of the places you've targeted for BC, but I'll be interested to find out. I live a few blocks away, yet for years I never noticed All-State tucked away in a basement near West End on 72nd St. Oddly enough, it was a born and raised upper East sider at work who told me about it. When I told him I thought that J.G. Mellons (two blocks from this guy's apartment) had my favorite burger in NY and that I was jealous he lived so close by, he laughed and said that he had for years been crossing the Park to my neighborhood for his favorite burger at All-State. OK, it's noon. Time for a quick burger strike.

I was thinking about going out for a salad for lunch today, but after seeing those pictures I'm going to have to find a burger! Maybe All-State Cafe (my favorite on the UWS) or Fairway (never tried it, but will report back here if I do). Do y'all mind if I join the Burger Club, or has this elite squad already closed ranks? When/where is the next meeting?

Thanks for the New York Mag info. Just read the review, and it couldn't have been much worse. Looks like Ducasse is in for another round of spankings from the New York food critic set. It's fitting that the review opens with a snide comment about those fancy pens at ADNY.

MORE POWER TO THE FAT GUY NATION! destroy the evil "Zagatization"

True enough. However, the fact remains that a large number of people do use and will continue to use his recommendations as a factor when deciding which new restaurants to try. It follows that he holds quite a bit of influence on the business environment for fledgling restaurants and the New York City food economy in general. Given the size of this market, it's a position of considerable responsibility.

I have it on good authority that the Arepa lady used to trade South American distressed debt at Goldman Sachs. Then the Arepas called....

What is Grimes' background? Why would the New York times choose someone without a food background who fines dining out a "chore"? A deliberate attempt to take an "average joe on the street" look at dining out perhaps? It's a crime if he doesn't particularly enjoy dining out. What wouldn't any number of egulleteers give for that job and expense account!

The thread on William Grimes' review of "Mix" (Alain Ducasse's new NYC restaurant) brought this question to mind. Grimes' unflattering review of ADNY no doubt did a fair amount of damage to that restaurant's business. Prior threads on this board have speculated whether or not Ducasse made changes at ADNY in response to Grimes' criticism - eliminating choices of fine pens and cutlery for example. If I remember correctly, there were other harsh reviews of ADNY at the time in the Post and elsewhere, but I suspect that Grimes exerts the most influence through his lofty post at the Times. I would guess that the content of a review from Grimes can nearly make or break a fledgling restaurant in New York. Comments overheard while recently dining at Mix indicate that Ducasse has already made changes in response to Grimes' recent review. Should the New York Times allow one critic/reporter to have so much airtime and influence? The role of any food critic is by nature quite subjective, so why not use more of a panel approach with multiple reviewers? For example, Wine Spectator magazine follows strict guidelines for the tasting and rating sessions which support its wine buying guide. Here are some excerpts from Wine Spectator regarding these guidelines: "Wines are always tasted blind, in flights organized by varietal, appellation or region...Each tasting begins with a wine previously rated, which is tasted non-blind as a reference point. Other already-rated wines are inserted into the blind tasting to ensure consistency....Price is not taken into account. We retaste all wines that score 70 points or less....Scores of outstanding or better are routinely confirmed by another editor." I'm not suggesting that wine tasting methodology is applicable to restaurant reviews per se (now do I get my two points Fat Guy?). What is pertinent here is the effort taken by the Wine Spectator's editors to bring some balance and objectivity to their reviews. These editors know they hold a great deal of power over wine producers. An outstanding rating of a new or obscure wine in the Spectator can drive huge demand swings in the marketplace and double or triple a wine's retail price. So, at least these editors are trying to approach this power with some level of objectivity and respect. In contrast, there are wine reviews by single editors such as Robert Parker, in which one person's opinions exert tremendous pressure on the marketplace (some wine critics have suggested that producers may deliberately alter wines in hopes of courting Parker's preferences/tastes). On the other hand, I find that reviews from a single trusted source can often be the most focused and useful. For example, I came to this board after reading many of Steven Shaw's reviews. Over time, I found that my taste generally agreed with his, and I had a much greater probability of following his leads to new and satisfying dining experiences than I did from following the reviews in the New York Times or Zagats. I suppose Zagats tries to bring some measure of objectivity to the review process, but I personally find their reviews to be of little use. So are New Yorkers well served by Grimes and the New York Times? Of course I think the answer to the dilemma is eGullet.

No I didn't talk to him. He was engaged in conversation with several people at the front of the house, and the timing wasn't appropriate. He left with a tall and attractive blonde woman.

I paid my first visit to Mix yesterday. I had lunch at the bar, so I can't say I've seen the whole show. However, I still don't see why Grimes made such a big deal about Mix's approach. The Mix menu might indeed be difficult to understand if you're accustomed only to chowing at the all-you-can-eat seafood buffet, but c'mon Grimes, this a high end restaurant in NYC. The glass dishes may be a bit more difficult to eat out of, but offer some beautiful presentations (more on that later). Yes the space is rather trendy, but I assume that one of the main goals of the restaurant is to offer Ducasse food in a more fun, vibrant and casual atmosphere than ADNY or his other venues in France. I'm usually not big on "concept" restaurants either, but this has more to do with the fact that most of them use novel concepts/themes to cover for mediocre food and high prices (Tao anyone?). I've only had one meal, but I am already fairly certain this is NOT the case at Mix. My lunch was superb, and in my opinion the Ducasse showmanship didn't detract from the experience. I ordered the following: Glazed shrimp with eggplant - Outstanding. The sweet stewed eggplant was a fascinating counterpoint to the tangy glazed shrimp. It all would have been a bit too uniform in texture for me, had it not been for the crunchy toasts poised in between the layers. I thought the clear serving dish added to the presentation by showing the layered elements more clearly. Elbow macaroni with butter, ham and truffles - Yum! Very satisfying comfort food. I wasn't quite as thrilled as Grimes though. I thought a bit more truffle and ham might have worked better. Good, but not as interesting as the shrimp app. I liked the presentation in a big pot. This concentrated the savory aromas and kept everything warm and gooey long enough to finish it off. Raspberries with rose ice cream - My favorite of the three dishes. The presentation is just stunning. A dollop of pinkish ice cream supported by a large red rose petal, on a bed of perfect raspberries and layers of coulis and a crunchy crust. Good contrast in textures and flavors. The glass dish allows for the layered effect to be better appreciated, and in a way the dish disappears leaving only the glorious dessert. I thought this dish hit the mark in terms of artful simplicity, allowing the natural flavors to hold their own. The rose ice cream was an interesting touch, though not nearly as pungent at Grimes mentions in his review. One of the waitstaff told me that the rose ice cream had indeed been toned down due to "comments from a few diners". I actually thought the ice cream might have been better with more rose essence, but perhaps this would overpower the raspberries. I only hope that this was changed because the chef thought it needed fine tuning - not because Grimes compared it to his "grandmother's handbag". Grimes ought to stop and smell the roses more often I think, because I can't believe he didn't find great pleasure in such a poetic and delicious dessert. What aromas in the world can beat those of fresh raspberries or a rose in full bloom? Service was excellent during my visit. Everyone made me feel welcome, and the manager stopped by for a friendly chat when he noticed I was dining alone at the bar. I like the comfort food concept and the option of sampling Ducasse's cuisine in a more casual atmosphere. I disagree with Grimes that "a little less fun" would be better. If I want super serious, I can go to ADNY. If I want fun, I now have Mix. Now if only I could win the lottery to pay for it all..... Count me in as a fan of both ADNY and Mix. I hope there are many more fans out there. We're lucky to have both as a part of the NYC food scene. As a first impression, I'd give Mix 3 stars. And by the way, Alain Ducasse was there in the flesh yesterday.

Please elaborate on these important culinary-cultural issues. Is it French vis-a-vis (3 points for sure) American expectations of fine dining, or something more particular to Ducasse's individual style?

I just read the review, and I have to wonder what exactly Ducasse has done to piss off Grimes. Grimes panned ADNY, which I personally felt was ridiculous given the level of cuisine on offer. Grimes leads his Mix review with what strikes me as another personal assault on Ducasse. Has anyone on this board met Grimes? Does this guy have a banana in his tailpipe or what? I have yet to try Mix. May do so today for lunch (if I can get in) and report back.

Hmmm, somehow the rest of my question seems to have been swallowed by the E-gullet. In another thread you mentioned that you're starting to use biodynamie in your vineyards. I was wondering what particular wines are made (or will be made) from these vineyards. Also, since starting with the biodynamie (biodynamique??) approach, have you noticed improved quality or is it too early to tell? When I first heard about Biodynamie from the winemaker at Meo-Camuzet, I have to admit it sounded a bit like something from "Dionne Warwick's Psychic Friends Network". After tasting a few Burgundies made by folks using Biodynamie, I became a believer.

I apologize for geeking out a bit here, but do you have any thoughts about the use of indigenous vs. cultured yeasts in making wine? I ask this because I've recently discovered that some of my favorite American Chardonnays (and I don't have many) were made with indigenous yeast.

In another thread you mention that you're using biodynamie in some of your vineyards. Which particular Bonny Doon wines are made (or will be made) from these vineyards? Has there been a difference in quality or is it too early to tell?

There has been a lot of discussion lately about California wines tasting the same. Some say that trends in the industry - the almighty RP and WS ratings game, marketing to the lowest common denominator to increase sales, the unwillingness of larger producers to take risks, etc. - have brought this about. I don't know what trends are causing this "sameness" in California wines, but in my humble opinion, it is happening. So many California wines taste similar to me (big fruit, lots of extraction) with the main distinguishing feature being the amount of oak on the finish. I especially notice it when I contrast California Pinots or Syrahs with Burgundies and Rhone wines. I'm no wine expert, but can often taste a noticeable difference in character even between Burgundies made by the same winemaker, in the same basic area (i.e. Chambolle-Musigny), depending on what plot of land that bottling came from. Further afield, a Chambolle-Musigny is almost always a completely different animal from a Gevrey-Chambertin, which again is usually very different from a Pommard (and all made from 100% the same grape!). I seldom get this kind of character distinction between California Pinots or Syrahs. I rarely drink California cabs, so don't know if they suffer the same plight. So what I'm curious about is how the California winemakers pull this off. Is it scientific control of the process? Blending techniques? Some other manipulation to produce uniformity? Also, are they deliberately seeking this uniformity for commercial/economic reasons or what? Do California winemakers talk about these things behind closed doors? Mr. Grahm, I've been a big fan of your wines since my first sip (a glass of Malvasia many years ago) for their originality and character. Thanks for joining us here, and thanks even more for taking bold positions and a road less traveled with your wines.