Felonius

I also found the following passage of interest: The emphasis is mine, of course. This is a common straw man example intended to make the smoking laws look like the beginning of totalitarianism, but in fact there is a big difference here. Number one, no one is forcing the employees at a steak house to eat the food that is served there. One could concievably be a complete vegetarian and still work at a steak house. Second, it is possible for employees at nightclubs to protect their hearing from the damage of long-term exposure to loud sounds very easily. It is not so easy for the employees of that same nightclub to protect themselves from secondhand smoke, short of wearing a hazmat suit. Why must it be the nature of of "this kind of law" to "run roughshod over certain situations"? The "certain situations" in this case seem to be any situation in which someone wants to smoke, other than on a sidewalk or in their apartment (which by the way, several co-ops are now trying to restrict). Why not write a better law that also respects the rights of smokers who are not endangering others? I disagree that it must be this "strict and inflexible" in order to achieve its stated goal of protecting employees. In my humble opinion, I think this is an excuse for a poorly written law, and that those who wrote it have more on their agenda than just protecting employees. I suspect there is a moral or other agenda (smoking is a nasty habit, those people should know better, I'm helping them save themselves, etc.) motivating these lawmakers' actions. The image of "busboys playing on the squash courts" is just an inflammatory low blow intended to make members of clubs look bad (what a bunch of elitist jerks those club members must be!). Would the author of that statement expect the busboys at his favorite restaurant to sit down with him and his date for dinner? C'mon, give me a break! Finally, the terrace at the Racquet and Tennis Club mentioned in the article is about as "enclosed" as the sidewalk far below it.

Actually, there are laws on the books concerning the volume of music (routinely ignored, but should be enforced for the same reasons a smoking ban is a good idea). Steak, however, harms only those that eat it. The distinction here is CHOICE. If someone else smokes, nonsmokers have no choice but to inhale second hand smoke. If someone plays music at harmful levels, you have no choice but to endure it. But if someone orders a steak, the vegetarian at the table doesn't have to eat it. Now I can here the response -- nonsmokers can choose not to eat out. That is simply not an option for many people, who commonly do deals and conduct business in restaurants, not to mention the fact that restaurants/bars/clubs form an essential part of the social fabric of the city. The tyrrany of the minority smokers has endured for far too long. Ok, I'll grant that my steakhouse analogy was not particularly relevant, and I don't think asking non-smokers to put up with smoke in restaurants is fair either. I just feel there should be a place where people who choose to smoke can do so socially in NYC, other than on the sidewalk. I'm not a big supporter of smoking. However, I do feel that something is wrong in this country when members of a private club can't enjoy a cigar in a room where employees will never be asked to be present. This is a "tyranny of the majority" if you ask me. I am an adult, I am endangering no one but myself, but I can't smoke a cigar or cigarette - why? The logical argument for the ban has to do with endangering the health of employees, yet the law as written oversteps this purpose.

My mistake, you are correct that the State ban is ultimately the culprit here. However, Bloomberg got the ball rolling and didn't seem to mind one bit when he flattened my fun at the club. I have no doubt the club would have provided the changes in physical plant to accomodate adequate ventilation, seeing as their members have thousands of cigars in the club's humidor. In this case, I think special ventilation would have been unwarranted (though probably required by law), because the scale of the rooms and distance between this room and employee areas is pretty damn big. Incidentally, smoking is also forbidden outside on the terrace. How the hell that smoke is going to harm anyone is beyond me. Sidewalk pedestrians beware, there are smokers on the terrace 40 feet over your head!!!! When laws become this overbearing and farfetched, look out. Next thing you know, they'll be banning steakhouses (high cholesterol, beware!) and nightclubs (loud music is dangerous to your ears!).

I can understand the logic/merit behind the employee health issues. On the other hand, I am not entirely convinced by the data I've seen that second hand smoke is a significant enough threat to warrant a total ban. Here's what ticks me off though..... If I belong to a private club, which has a private room, which is set aside for smoking and no employee ever has to enter (other than to clean it when the club is closed and no one is smoking), why the hell can't I go in there and relax with a cigar or cigarette? This makes absolutely no sense to me, and I believe it is a totally unwarranted infringement on my personal liberties by Bloomberg & Co. Having an occasional celebratory cigar or an after-dinner martini and cigarette with good friends at the club is something I really enjoy. Will one of the many smoking ban proponents on this board explain to me why this right has been taken away from me, when it poses no risks to employees or other non-smokers in NYC? To me, this kind of over-reaction on the part of bureaucrats breeds nothing but contempt for the law.

The rapidity and thoughtfulness with which people respond on this board never ceases to amaze me. Thanks to all for the info and the review. I'll have to visit L'Impero soon, and will post a review on this thread.

I was having lunch at the Jean-Georges/Nougatine bar today and struck up a conversation with the woman next to me. It turns out she was formerly the pastry chef at Veritas (one of my favorite NYC restaurants) and is now working at an Italian place called L'Impero in Tudor City. I'd be curious to hear opinions from anyone who's dined there. I may give it a try tomorrow.

Just found it on the web "L'Impero". Sorry about the off-topic post. I'll start a new thread on this....

I was having lunch at the bar today at Jean-Georges (Nougatine) and struck up a conversation with the lady sitting next to me. It seems she was the pastry chef at Veritas up until last year, and now is at a fairly new Italian restaurant located in Tudor City. I didn't write down the name and now have forgotten. Anyone know what this place is or tried it?

Thanks to those who invited me via a message. Unfortunately I was out of town last weekend. I have yet to make it to an egulleteer function, but hope to do so soon.

It's been over ten years since I've eaten there, but I remember some outstanding meals at the Depuy Canal House in High Falls. The setting (in various rooms in a restored 18th century tavern) is interesting, and the owner-chef had a creative menu based on the freshest of local/regional ingredients. If the same person is still in charge of the operation, I would bet the food is still excellent and worth a weekend trip from NYC. Anyone been there recently? Is the same guy still the owner/chef?

I used to eat brunch at Julian's nearly every Sunday, and still drop in quite often. My patronage was largely due to the fact that one of my best friends lives around the corner, and it's nearly impossible to get him out of his neighborhood for a meal. Plus they have had a never-ending string of very attractive Eastern European waitresses (sorry if this offends anyone but, what the heck, we're single guys in NYC). Aside from the convenience and cute waitresses, I have come to like Julians for the following reasons: - It is one of the few places on the Upper West/West side that doesn't require a wait or fight with the crowds for a decent Sunday brunch - The prices are quite reasonable by NYC standards - The waitstaff is generally friendly (though perhaps moreso because I eat there so often) - The outdoor seating is pleasant when the weather permits The food is nothing to write home about, but perfectly fine for the price point. My favorite dinner item is the lamb chops (mustard crusted with potatoes dauphinoise), which I find very satisfying. I also like the pasta with duck. My favorite breakfast item is a sort of scrambled egg casserole with three cheeses. They've recently changed the menu, so I'm not as familiar with the rest of it as I used to be. I'd recommend Julian's to anyone in the neighborhood looking for a reliable and reasonable local dining spot, but wouldn't suggest that it's worth a trip from other parts of the city. It might also be useful as a pre-theater option when other more exciting places (i.e. Becco) are full.

I did take some active steps, many of which were suggested by you and fellow egulleteers. They included: - Dining multiple times over short time span (easier for them to remember you) - Making lunch and weeknight reservations rather than at "peak" times - Getting to know the names of the waitstaff (as soon as I knew their names, they remembered mine) - Engaging the staff with questions or comments about the food/wine (this was not contrived in any way, as I am always eager to hear what a good waitstaff has to say about their favorite dishes, wine pairings, etc.) - Thanking everyone personally for their service and food when appropriate - Offering a glass of wine (when my bottle was of sufficient quality to merit this) to the waitstaff or chef - Giving a bit of Christmas bonus and a nice bottle of wine to key staff (though this may sound pretentious or even like bribery to some of you, by this time I was already a "regular" and I did it out of genuine thanks rather than for more dubious reasons) I also try to show them the same respect and consideration shown to me. If a maitre-d' doesn't flinch at giving me a prime-time table at the last minute, I am gracious if the service occasionally slips at rush-hour (though it very seldom does in my experience). In other words, I don't look a gift horse in the mouth. Another good inroads to "regular" status might be attending special events when offered by a given restaurant. For example, the sommelier at Cafe Boulud began inviting me to special Monday night wine tasting dinners. These were not only an opportunity to sample some of the best food/wine that CB had to offer, they also brought me and my fellow diners (mostly regulars) into closer contact with the chef. Andrew had put a lot of work into preparing these special menus, and I think he was eager to hear what we thought of the food. These have proven to be some of the most enjoyable dinners I've had in New York, and a great chance to see what a chef can do when he/she pulls out all the stops. And if all of this sounds contrived - it really wasn't. I returned over and over again because I especially craved their food. The rest was just a matter of courtesy and sharing my enthusiasm for food with the staff. Oh yeah, and spending more than I care to admit on dining out. At Grand Sichuan the process was a bit simpler. I merely became addicted to their food and ate there 2-3 times a week. When a guy shows up on their doorstep 3 days in a row for a dumpling fix, they've gotta give him some respect!

Oh yes, the trials and tribulations..... I have come to realize that there are some places in NYC that will never treat anyone other than a supermodel or media mogul with respect (Bond St., Babbo, etc.), and I tend to visit them now only if I have a specific craving. Some other places always treat me well though I'm not a particularly regular customer (Blue Ribbon, Blue Hill are two examples) and they will continue to be on my short list when I need a break from Cafe Boulud. Others seem wholly indifferent no matter how often I dine there. Jean Georges comes to mind, as I have eaten there MANY times and never been recognized once. Then again, I tend to eat there more for its close proximity to my apartment than because it's my favorite cuisine, and haven't been particularly gregarious with the waitstaff. Another "regular" place for me is Smith and Wollensky's back grill. I like their steaks, and though I tend to think Sparks has the best steak in town, I prefer the atmosphere (and side dishes) at S&W. A good friend of mine has now dined there so regularly that he has been given a plaque with his name on it at the bar. There are other nice perks involved with "regular" status there, but I won't get into these in detail. I don't want to get any of those fine folks in trouble with the corporate-types who own the S&W franchise. I'm also somewhat of a regular at Hatsuhana. I followed Steven's sage advice about sticking with one sushi chef, and became friends with Masa Seki. He takes good care of me with the best fish on offer that particular day. Now if only I could get in good with Yasuda! (Although Yasuda-San did make me sushi the other day, and had some very humorous gossip to offer about his rivals at other NYC establishments). Overall, I am happy to report that my bitterness over poor treatment in NYC restaurants when I first arrived has subsided. I have found my regular places where I am welcomed as a friend, and never have any hassles. I dine out at my own risk at other places when an exploratory mood strikes me, but find myself returning more often than not to my "regular" places. These days I tend to be more adventurous when looking for a cheap meal, as the expectations are low and there's not much at stake. However, when I am going to lay down some serious cash for a meal, why subject myself to the inconsistencies (and at times outright snobbery) at a place like Bouley, when I know that Cafe Boulud is going to go out of their way to hit a home run for me every time? So I suppose one could say my dining out saga has a happy ending....

Steven, were you pursuing a new interest in archaeology when you dug up this ancient thread? Now that you've asked..... As some may have noticed from my other posts, I guess one could say I've become a "regular" at Cafe Boulud. I also frequent a few other places where I am recognized as such (thanks to "Sunny" at Grand Sichuan, and to the folks on the lunch shift at Lutece). Cafe Boulud is my favorite restaurant in NYC, and perhaps the United States, so my repeated visits were motivated by a genuine love of Andrew Carmellini's cooking. I suppose the fact that I've dropped enough money in that place to buy a second home in Alabama didn't hurt in getting on the good side of the folks at Cafe Boulud, but in the process I've also become friends with the staff. Now it's more a matter of a friend wanting to do their best for a friend, and one who really appreciates their efforts, than it is about commerce. While the food at CB has always been a model of consistent excellence in my opinion, I do think that the quality of the food has improved since I've become a "regular". I think that there is just that extra bit of attention to detail, or perhaps some extra creative effort (i.e. when ordering a tasting menu). Everyone in the dining room and kitchen knows how much I love their food and service, and how thrilled I am when they are at the top of their game - and what genuine artist wouldn't give their all for a standing ovation? So I guess it's sort of a symbiotic relationship. There are other perks such as never worrying about getting a last-minute reservation or a good table, but these are still secondary to the effort that is put into the food. Sometimes I wish I had found my regular place at a less expensive restaurant, but then again "if you wanna play, you gotta pay" in New York . At least I have Grand Sichuan at the ready when I need to feel the love at a lower price (which is about once a week, due to the addictive qualities of their dumplings and Kung Pao chicken). Another side note to my Cafe Boulud experience, is having struck up friendships outside the restaurant with a few of the staff members. One in particular now joins me with his wife on a regular basis for food and wine dinners either at home or out on the town. This has been a lot of fun, and a great chance to expand my knowledge of food and wine with people equally passionate about it all. Does that adequately answer your question Steven? Also, I've only had the pleasure of meeting with one fellow egullet member for a few dinners (Mao, where are you these days?) If anyone cares to join me for a full sampling of Andrew Carmellini's cooking, say the word...

My favorite chocolate dessert in NYC is the molten chocolate cake at Lutece. I think it's even better than the excellent one at Bouley. It seems like every restaurant does a take on molten chocolate cake, but for some reason I always find the version at Lutece the most satisfying. Their apple tart is also my favorite in New York. Maybe I like these because they are done in a simple, classic way without trying to throw in bizarre flavor combinations as many other places do. In my opinion, a perfectly executed chocolate cake or apple tart don't need things like basil sorbet or mango-mint puree getting in the way! The rest of the food at Lutece isn't all that exciting. It's those two desserts that keep me coming back for lunch for the fairly reasonable prix-fixe menu.

Steven, your topic for this post had my blood pressure rising for a moment. I thought someone was finally opening a Chik-Fil-A in Manhattan (not exactly a gourmet destination, but old Southern habits die hard...) Will have to try this new dessert place. It's probably safer for my arteries than a Chik-Fil-A in close striking distance anyway.

Lxt, thanks for such a thorough review. Cafe Boulud is my favorite NYC restaurant, and I have to say I agree with your reviews on the dishes you tried (I eat at CB way too often, as I have had all of them!). For some reason, I have never found the dessert at CB as exciting as the other courses, the notable exception being their excellent dessert "soups". I often skip dessert and go right to that otherwordly basket of Madeleines. For those who have yet to try CB, a few thoughts... Andrew Carmellini does a superb job with soups and pastas, and I would strongly recommend sampling one of each from the menu. The current entree of rabbit with tiny pastas is one of the better dishes I've had. The "earthier" selections (i.e. takes on French country food) are also usually among the most satisfying in my opinion. I like the understated elegance that Andrew brings to them, letting the fresh ingredients and flavors speak for themselves, instead of the more "dressed to impress" approach at Daniel. In general, the food at CB is not nearly as daring as that at other high end NYC establishments such as Jean Georges. Some may find it a bit dull. I find it hits the spot every time in a wonderful comfort food sort of way. Also, I would recommend spending some time talking to Olivier Flosse, the sommelier. He is very knowledgeable, and has seldom steered me wrong (and I am VERY opinionated when it comes to wine). If you're feeling bold at the end of the meal, ask him to bring you his special after-dinner drink concoction - a blend of Belle de Brillet brandy and armagnac over ice that is worth a try. A good complement for that basket of Madeleines. I ate at CB on Saturday and did the tasting menu. I was pleased to find the food uniformly excellent on such a busy night. I usually avoid high end NYC restaurants on weekends, as the food often suffers under the strain of a packed house all night.

The annotated menu and the section on the dishes adapted from a Chinese TV series are beyond description. Steven, you are correct that only a transcript would suffice. I'll get to work on it - especially since it gives me a much-needed excuse to go back for Kung Pao chicken for the third time this week .....

I'll cast my best fries vote for Les Halles. I like the fries at Tartine quite a bit too.

I have been away from NYC and off this board for some time. I was amused upon my recent return to see that this thread I started 18 months ago is still active! I have been back in the city a week and have eaten at GSI (on 50th and 9th) twice - so obviously my recommendation still stands. The Kung Pao fresh chicken special and sichuan dumplings in chili oil are as good as ever. I've never had a bad meal at this Grand Sichuan location, but there are indeed nights when these dishes are better than others. That's to be expected at nearly any restaurant, and at the prices GSI is charging, I'm not too worried about it. Thanks again to Steven Shaw for recommending this place to me a few years ago.

Thanks for the tip. I live practically across the street from the UWS location and used date a girl across the street from the UES location. I have walked by both a million times and they are usually packed. Being a southerner, I could never muster up enough excitement to try BBQ as I was certain it was destined to disappoint (as all oven-baked ribs must in the end). Now I will have to stop by to at least try the onion loaf and rotisserie chicken. Any other items besides these and the cole slaw I should try? Are the ribs worth a shot, or do they have a pulled pork sandwich (don't laugh please)? I think I'll head over there tonight. While we're on this topic, Fat Guy, who do you think serves the best ribs in Manhattan? Is Blue Smoke any good? Does anyone else in the city actually smoke their ribs instead of baking them?

This thread got me thinking about Cafe Boulud food yet again, and I had to go back for a quick lunchtime meal. The menu has been redone for September, with a variety of new items. A new version of the smoked corn ravioli (previously a special) has been added to the regular menu, now incorporating chanterelle mushrooms and a creamier sauce in place of the light foam. Still fantastic, though I think I preferred the version I had during previous visits. This recipe is a bit heavier and more autumnal in feel with the mushrooms in place of summer vegetables. A country pate appetizer with cherries, cherry sauce (with port wine reduction or something similar) and a lentil concoction on the side was excellent if not exactly revolutionary in concept. I think there were also pistachios in the pate. The $20.02 summer lunch special has now been changed to $28 for two courses and I think it was $36 for three. The ravioli portion appeared to be the same as what was served a la carte at dinner. The prix fix menu gives three choices for app, three for entree, and two for dessert. Overall a real value in my opinion given the quality of the food.

Glad to hear everyone had a good experience at CB recently. Perhaps some day I will be able to join a few other E-gullet types for dinner there. I have been back several times since my first post on this thread and each visit has provided superb food. I went for a tasting menu with another frequent poster on this board, but I won't go into the details on the food as much of it was similar to items already mentioned. One item of special note was a smoked corn ravioli that was out of this world. On a subsequent lunch visit I was able to talk the kitchen into doing this again, though it is not on the current menu. I'm hoping it may return again soon. Andre Carmellini really has the pasta thing down in my opinion. That smoked corn ravioli was one of the better dishes I've ever had, and I can still remember several other great pasta moments at Cafe Boulud months or even years from the past.

Welcome to E-gullet Lima Bean! Have you ever tried Sparks Steakhouse in NYC? If so, what did you think? I too have given up on the trek to Lugar's. The wait, the lousy atmosphere and gruff service are just too much for me to bear at that price point. I've eaten at dozens of steakhouses in NYC and have found Sparks to be the most consistently excellent (for dry aged steaks that is), with Smith & Wollensky and Post House close behind. The sides are much better at those two than at Sparks, so I tend to split my steak dollars rather evenly between Smith & Wollensky and Sparks, depending on my mood. Bobby Van's also does a credible job, with more of Lugar's style steak. For some reason though, their NY strip never seems quite as flavorful as those at S&W and Sparks. I suspect they don't age it as long.

Actually my employer pays more than that, because they also have to dole out payroll taxes on my behalf - another great "hidden tax" that the government has conjured up. I, of course, think I deserve every penny my employer pays me - but I'm not exactly an unbiased observer so I'll leave that line of thought alone. The market may "compensate" as you say, but that doesn't mean that all these taxes are an efficient distribution of wealth and productivity. Prior to my job in finance, I spent 8 years in the military. While I am proud to have served and believe in the integrity of our military, I can say first hand that the goverment is arguably the single worst custodian of funds/resources I have ever seen. Senators and congressmen spend our money like a teenager let loose with his parent's gold Amex card for the weekend. Ahh but those $750 toilet seats on the ship sure did feel nice........