Felonius

Thanks. With that encouragement perhaps I'll post a few more reviews here in the near future. I exchange e-mails with a fellow NYC food addict now and then, and that is where these "reviews" generally come from. I would generally agree that music such as Led Zeppelin is not conducive to fine dining, but for some reason I liked it at the Tasting Room. However, it was a bit difficult hear my date at times. Then again, this may have worked in my favor, as it likely spared her from having to listen to me wax poetic about the Pinot Noir we were drinking. Maybe I owe that next date to Robert Plant & the Boys for helping me hide my food geek tendencies. And no my last name is not "Mump". Why do you ask?

This thread brings up some interesting thoughts about reservations policies, and since we're already down this road I thought I'd add my two cents.... I've eaten at Babbo probably 10 times this year, yet have never had a "reserved" table. I have found that if one shows up at the right times when tables are turning over (at least on weeknights) there is usually no more than a 10-25 minute wait for a table in the bar area. Granted, this lacks some of the ambience of the main dining room, but I have never been able to get a reservation before 10:30 or 11pm even when calling a few weeks in advance. My line of work precludes me from making plans months in advance, and I don't have the time or patience to sit and hit re-dial fifty times just to get through to a reservationist anyway. I find it all rather annoying and ridiculous, but what can one do? Babbo serves food the equal or better of other top restaurants in NYC at a far lower price than the competition (and marks its wine up by about 50% rather than the 200-300% markup at most of the competition), so it's no wonder that it is probably the toughest table to get in Manhattan. As for game playing by restaurants in how they fill up their reservations book - I have no idea what exactly the rules are, but I have no doubt that some restaurants in NYC are playing one. Ouest is a good example. I live nearby and tried many times to secure a reservation at a decent hour, only to be given the usual 5:30 or 10:30 take-it-or-leave-it routine. Then one day I simply walked in at prime time on a weeknight and was offered a table that had opened up at the last minute. I ordered an expensive bottle of wine with dinner, had an engaging conversation with the sommelier and the hostess, and thanked them profusely on my way out. Ever since, I have never had problems getting a reservation at a decent hour on a day or two's notice. It makes me wonder if these places have some sort of database (or just good memories) of who is likely to run up the tab. Also, at a top restaurant in NYC that shall go nameless here, I used to get the usual run around on reservations. However, after dining there on a very regular basis for nearly a year (and buying liberally from their wine list), I now can get a table at any hour with little or no notice (i.e. Saturday night prime table with a call on Saturday morning). So, I know these places must hold some of their tables open at prime hours for regular customers or perhaps the random celebrity or VIP (whatever that means in a city of 8 million people). I find this all very obnoxious, but as the saying goes "if you can't beat'em, join'em".

Had dinner at the Tasting Room for the first time the other night, and it left me with mixed feelings. I love the concept of an intimate, friendly and casual place that serves high-end food. The staff couldn’t have been more friendly or knowledgeable about the food, and they made me feel like a “regular” from the first minute I walked in. This kind of gracious and welcoming attitude served as a stark reminder of just how snobby most other top Manhattan restaurants have become (I'm guessing this is partially a function of demand outstripping supply in NYC during the financial bull market of the 1990's). The Tasting Room also has an outstanding wine list, though limited in size and scope (only California wines from what I saw), with many hard to find wines at extremely reasonable mark ups. They had a list of California Pinots the likes of which I’ve never seen outside of the top restaurants in Northern California – three different wines made with the infamous “Pisoni” grapes particularly caught my eye. There were also some great dessert wine selections by the glass that will not be found on another list in NYC. I like their menu format that allows for tasting portions of all items, and my date and I opted for 6 “tasting” dishes to share. In the background, they played an eclectic mix of music including 1940’s jazz and even some tracks from Led Zeppelin. There’s nothing quite like chowing down on haute cuisine while Robert Plant belts out “The Immigrant Song”! I found the ambience a fun and refreshing alternative to the seriousness of a Bouley, Cafe Boulud, etc. Then there was the food. Everything was expertly prepared and novel in concept. The problem was that much of it did not quite synch with my tastebuds. Daring flavor and texture compositions seemed the rule, i.e. cold shrimp wrapped in some sort of aspic, with a mint and something-or-other infused broth. A foie gras terrine had excellent flavor but the consistency was more hard/gelatinous than I would have liked. Of the six dishes we tried, only one or two really made either of us want to dig in and finish every bite, including a sea bass, and now I’ve forgotten the sauce (I apologize for a lack of more accurate descriptions in this post - I had a very beautiful date and was somewhat distracted from my usual food analysis). Perhaps I'm just not on the same wavelength as the chef in terms of flavor and texture combinations, which may appeal more to others. The quality was certainly there, the thought and physical execution were there, but the food just didn't click with me. Despite this somewhat awkward first visit, I will return for another try. As the menu changes constantly, one never knows what a subsequent visit may offer. The price was also reasonable in my opinion given the level of dining experience provided, and the fact that the wines are a better deal than at the majority of the competition. Finally, I really enjoyed the laid back and friendly atmosphere and excellent service. The folks at the Tasting Room could teach a few lessons to the rest of Manhattan's elite restauranteurs (except perhaps the Brombergs at Blue Ribbon) in true the meaning of the word "hospitality".

I paid my first visit to ADNY for lunch a few months ago. I opted for the $165 prix fixe menu (with a variety of selections per course) vice the much less expensive seasonal lunch menu, so I'm not sure my impressions will directly address your question. From what I can tell, my meal was no different than what would be served at dinner. What follows is a note/review I wrote to a fellow board member about my experience for those who may be interested..... My sister and her husband, both avid foodies, were in town and so I arranged for a special meal at ADNY. I had of course read all the scathing reviews, but didn’t pay much attention. I trust Steven Shaw’s judgment, and many meals at the top restaurants in Paris (although not Alain Ducasse) have convinced me that the French still reign supreme in many aspects of fine dining. I found it impossible to believe that a chef of Ducasse’s standing would permit anything short of art to come out of a kitchen with his name on it. We went for Friday lunch and ended up spending about 4 hours there. We ordered from the regular menu (with a la carte selections vice the seasonal set meal) and a decent bottle of Chambolle-Musigny. As I had suspected, the food was superior in every aspect – quality, flavor, presentation, complexity – it was all there in spades. Artichoke soup appetizer was superb, followed by a lobster casserole sort of thing with morel mushrooms that was just off the charts in terms of richness and flavor. I’ve never had better morels in my life. A pepper-crusted bison loin main was also fantastic, and the quality of the meat itself was significantly better than bison had at 2 excellent restaurants out West a month prior (Stein Erikson Lodge in Deer Valley was one) where they are much closer to the source. My sister had a vegetarian appetizer, a baked vegetable concoction that may have been the best vegetarian dish I’ve ever had. For dessert, I ordered the Baba Au Rum, both because it is a house specialty and because I couldn’t resist getting the whole tableside show. They have a special antique silver dish just for this one dessert. I know the critics have attacked the over-the-top showmanship at ADNY (the antique knives, pens, etc.) and most of these practices have been discontinued. I too am usually put off by excessive formality in a restaurant. It’s the main reason I seldom go to Daniel. However, I don’t really mind it when it is in a top French restaurant in Paris or at ADNY here. They somehow have a way of pulling it off, maybe because they are the ones who invented this type of service in the first place and thus are not overly self conscious in the way they provide it. Anyway, I thoroughly enjoyed selecting my choice of rum from the trolley and watching them go through their Baba au Rum ritual. I couldn’t help but smile and crack a few jokes about it all, and the wait staff smiled back as if to acknowledge “yes we know this is a bit silly, but this is how we do it and we know you’re enjoying the hell out of it”. Had I joked like that at Daniel, I am certain I would have been met by disapproving scowls from the waiters. Then of course they bring several more rounds of truffles, candies, lollipops, toffee, etc. I almost needed a wheelchair to get out the front door I was so satiated with rich food. This not a place for weekly dining, even if one could afford it. The wines were also excellent. There were no whites listed by the glass that suited my taste, so the sommelier promptly cracked open an excellent bottle that wasn’t on the list and served it by the glass anyway. I then chose a bottle of Chambolle-Musigny with the assistance of the sommelier. I am somewhat of a Burgundy addict, and it is not often that a sommelier can find an excellent Chambolle that I have neither tried nor even heard of before. ADNY hit another home run here. I guess my only problem with the wine list is the markup. From what I could tell, they are marking the wines up by at least 300-400%! That puts anything really interesting out realm of reality for me. Still, they do have some rare wines that could not be found outside of France or an auction house, so I suppose that for those on the cost-no-object budget that it’s an attractive list. I only wish I could afford to match their food with a truly great wine for less than the $600-800 it would take to step up to the plate at ADNY. Despite the largest bill per person I have ever seen outside of Paris, I left feeling that I had gotten what I paid for – more than I can say for some very expensive meals at other top restaurants in New York. A trip to ADNY is like going to see a great art exhibit or box seats at the Opera – something sublime that can’t be quantified in dollar terms. Plus, it saved me the airfare to Paris, which is the only other place I’ve had a similar combination of food, service, quality, and artistic presentation in one package. So despite the cost and the fact that I cannot afford regular visits to ADNY, I am a fan. I have no idea what planet the critics were on when they blasted the place as mediocre or even bad.

I have always been a huge fan of David Bouley's restaurants in all their incarnations, and eagerly anticipated a visit to the post-September 11th reincarnation. My visit last week left me with mixed feelings. The service was incredibly slow (over 30 minute wait for the first course and nearly an hour in between the first and second courses!) though friendly. In addition, I had brought a very special bottle of wine, a 1982 Bordeaux first-growth from my cellar, and asked the sommelier and waiter to surprise me with a tasting menu of suitable pairings from the menu. The first two courses they chose were fish - not exactly a stellar choice in my humble opinion (that's what I deserve for not choosing myself I suppose). I suspect they put in the order without much thought. My date had the phyllo shrimp, the bass, and the lobster as described in earlier posts by others. All were stellar - true genius in flavor, presentation and originality. I had the rouget, which was rather uninspiring, and the lamb which was good but not as flavorful as a rack of lamb had earlier in the week at Blue Ribbon. Overall, I left with feelings of disappointment over my meal and thrilled with the few bites my date afforded me of hers. Overall, my lackluster experience at Bouley was not surprising. Many visits over the past several years have yielded similar frustrations - slow and uninspiring service, inconsistent food. However, Bouley has also afforded me some of the best meals of my life when the kitchen was on their game. My sister and her husband (both avid foodies with trustworthy palates) had lunch at Bouley a few weeks prior and declared it close if not better than the meal we had together at ADNY the day before. I would recommend to any first-timers to try Bouley at off-peak times such as weekend lunch or early on a weeknight. I think one stands a better chance of getting Bouley's best when the kitchen isn't so strained as on a weekend night. While I was disappointed, I can't hold a grudge. The price is a deal when compared with the competition, the atmosphere refined yet cozy, and the food can be the best in New York (or the USA for that matter) when the timing is right. The ability to bring wine (corkage is now $40) is also a huge plus for me, and much appreciated. I hope that some of the rough edges will be ironed out once they have a bit more experience under their belt with the new incarnation of Bouley.

Tommy, Other than the over-the-top decor, how would you characterize the differences between the original Rosa Mexicano and the the new one near Lincoln Center? I ate at the East side location once several years ago and though it was excellent. I have been several times to the new West Side location, and haven't been impressed. The food just doesn't justify the high prices they are charging. I have wondered if my memory deceives me or if the old location really was/is better. The only reasons I continue to go now and then to West Side Rosa's is because it is near my house, convenient post-concert dining due to Lincoln Center proximity, and the guacamole and margueritas are quite good. After a big check and mediocre food there this past weekend, I finally decided to give it up. Another question to all - where is the best mexican food on the Upper West side? (Other than the ubiquitous Rosa Mexicano or Gabriellas, neither of which thrills me). I'd especially like to find a cheap "hole in the wall" with good mexican food for those occasional cravings.

In my humble opinion, there can be a meaningful difference between even the best steakhouses - in terms of style of preparation (i.e. Sparks vs. Peter Luger), flavor, and consitency in quality. For me the biggest difference is dry vs. wet aged. I can cook a perfectly good wet aged steak at home, and thus have no interest in going out for the same, for example the steaks at the Palm. However, dry aged steaks from top steakhouses such as Sparks offer flavor that is not so easily replicated. I am sure there are butcher shops that can supply a superior dry aged steak, but I suspect this is limited to a few select suppliers. I have found that Sparks offers the most consistent quality of any of the dry-aged competition (i.e. Smith & Wollensky) in the city. My other reason for occasionally choosing a steakhouse over other more sophisticated cuisines/restaurants is to enjoy the steak primarily as an accompianament to a great bottle of red wine. Sparks has a strong wine list, including older vintages of many top producers from Bordeaux, and their markup is the lowest I have ever found in Manhattan. They have Bordeaux from vintages such as 1982 and 1985 that are priced at 1/3 of what Daniel or Jean-Georges charges for the same bottle, and often 1/2 of what Smith & Wollensky charges. If I am in the mood for some serious red wine, I usually head to Sparks.

So is Old Homestead is really that good? I've been meaning to try it for some time, but never made it. Macrosan's comments have inspired me to get down there soon. As for Peter Luger, I wholeheartedly agree with the rave reviews on their steaks - as flavorful as any I've had. However, I must admit I found the gruff service, long waits, and boatloads of tourists rather unbearable. So after a trip to nearly every major steakhouse in Manhattan (except the Old Homestead!), I have become a dedicated Sparks fan. Consistently excellent and flavorful dry-aged steaks without the hassle of Peter Luger. Anyone out there care to give an opinion on Old Homestead vs. Sparks? Macrosan - what do you recommend in terms of cuts at Old Homestead? One other steakhouse note - I recently called the West 63rd Street Steakhouse (across from Lincoln Center) and got a recording saying they had closed. Their steaks weren't on par with Sparks, but I'll miss them as they were the only decent steak place I know of in my Upper West side hood. Oh yeah, may Sol rest in peace. You've got to love a guy that probably ate thousands of Peter Luger steaks and lived to be 98. (Edited by Felonius at 12:45 pm on Nov. 27, 2001)

Admin: 2004 Discussion of Grand Sichuan International may be found here. Following a recommendation frin the Fat-Guy site, I had dinner last night for the first time at Grand Sichuan (the midtown location at 50th and 9th ave.). As usual, Steven was right on target with his rave review. <p>Overview of dishes ordered:<p>Wonton soup - an excellent rendition of this standard, very delicate and flavorful dumpings. Overall, a bit mellow for my taste, but my date ordered this as she doesn't like particularly spicy food.<p>Sichuan dumpling with chili oil - I think this is what I ordered, either this or it was the Sichuan version of wonton soup. Anyway the waiter recommended it and it was about the best ?.00 I've ever spent in my life (the regular wonton soup is only ?.50!!). Basically it was the same dumplings as in my date's wonton soup, but they were bathed in a small pool of reddish brown chili-infused oil/sauce. A wonderfully spicy counterpoint to the mild dumplings. Also it was just spicy enough to have some kick, but not too spicy for those diners who have tender palates.<p>Sichuan pork with chestnuts - recommended by the waiter as a milder dish to try. Quite good, but a bit simple for my taste (my date loved it though). The pork was cooked to a point where excess fat had been reduced, but was still tender, reminiscent of good chinese duck preparations. <p>Kung Pao chicken - WOW! For anyone who loves sichuan food and has had the good fortune to try the real thing in China, look no further. Chicken was very flavorful and succulent. The fresh peanuts perfectly crunchy, not mushy or mealy as they often can be. The spice mix of ginger and chili peppers mingled perfectly in a rich brown sauce, which was supplied in just the right amount to coat the chicken but not overwhelm it (as is far too often the case in Chinese restaurants). Beware if you do not like spicy food, as this dish has a slow burn that quickly mounts to a crescendo of chili heat. My date found it too hot, but I loved it. This is how the dish is served in China, and I was glad to finally have food that wasn't "dumbed down" for the American market. Now if only I could find a Thai or Indian place that does the same! Note that when properly done, the chili heat is not there for heat's sake alone - it is a wonderfully flavorful and intense aspect of the dish for those who like spicy food. The key is to get the complexity and chili flavor balanced with the heat, which Grand Sichuan has done in this case.<p>My date and I each had two courses, with more food than we could eat, along with beer. Total tab before tip ?.00. We could have easily split one main dish and gotten out of there for ? had we had the same level of desire for spicy food.<p>Overall - very friendly and efficient service, bargain prices, and superbly executed food. If I lived in the neighborhood I'd probably eat there several times a week. The atmosphere is nothing special (rather bright lighting and generic decor), but at these prices who the #### cares. Note that if you want the spicy Kung Pao chicken, ask the waiter to show you the special chicken dish section at the back of the menu - otherwise you may accidentally order a milder version of the same from the "americanized" section in the front of the menu.<p>A must visit for those seeking real Sichuan food. Thanks to Fat-Guy for another great recommendation!

Glenn and Ron's comments illustrate another issue besides that of pouring follow-on bottles without asking. I have found that the waitstaff at the majority of restaurants that push the bottled water thing start off by asking "still or sparkling". I find this approach annoying. First of all, am I to assume that "still" means a bottled water that I have to pay for, or still water from the tap? (of course in these places it's probably safe to assume you're going to pay for it!). It's fine if they want sell to ů water to people who prefer it, but they really should ask "sparkling, still OR tap." I feel that failing to explicitly mention tap water as a choice is pretentious, potentially misleading, and a somewhat offensive effort to up-sell. And speaking of "up-selling", I am a capitalist and believe in restaurants and waiters maximizing profits where appropriate, but Glenn's comments about competitions of who can sell the most water or other items kind of bothers me. Does this mean that if I ask a waiter for a food recommendation or a sommelier for a wine recommendation that they are merely going to suggest the most expensive or highest margin items? This might be tolerable at an inexpensive restaurant, but I do not go to a great restaurant to be treated like an adversary in a financial deal. I would hope the management and waitstaff would have some integrity in giving honest advice in order to provide me with the best experience possible. In the long run this approach may also be the best from a profit perspective, as happy customers are often repeat customers and bigger tippers.

I also find it interesting that many restaurants in NYC that are popular due to good value for food still charge exorbitant prices for wines by the glass (Becco is a welcome exception to this by the way). I was in a restaurant recently where entrees were nearly all below ฤ, yet mediocre wines by the glass were Ű-14. Basically, the wine is just subsidizing the "bargain" food prices. A bit silly in my opinion. I have also found that wines by the glass are often bad due to the fact that bottles have been left open too long. This problem is not just a factor in less reputable restaurants - it happened to me a few weeks ago at Cafe Boulud with a ภ glass of wine. Luckily the staff at Cafe Boulud was quick to open another bottle when I pointed this out, whereas many restaurants have simpy replied with a "tastes just fine to me" and gone about their business of pouring bad wine.

I can't resist chiming in on my hatred of these bottled water ambush tactics. I have had this done to me many times, and would go so far to say that it's an unscrupulous business practice. Beyond the practice of sneaking an extra bottle (or several in a large party where nobody's keeping count) onto the bill, I don't like the whole bottled water concept to begin with. Call me a redneck, but why should anyone pay ů.00 for a bottle of water? Unless one has an unusual affinity for odd varieties of water, I defy anyone to pick out well-filtered tap water from bottled water (the only difference being sparkling vs. still of course). Any restaurant that charges 贄 per person can certainly afford to install a first rate water purification system to alleviate any chlorine or other tastes from public water sources. Actually, I would expect any good restaurant to do this for the water in their kitchen, as even something as simple as coffee can be negatively effected by poor tap water sources. So why can't they serve their own filtered water at no charge? Most restaurants have finally given up on the classic water ambush, and now employ a more subtle form of water extortion. They approach the table and ask what sort of water you would like (without the benefit of any price list on the menu or elsewhere), and if you respond "plain" or "tap" water, the waiter will then sneer at you with complete disdain and give your date or guests a knowing look that says "boy is this guy cheap or what - he won't even buy you all some quality water". Well I may be willing to pay 赨 for a quality bottle of Burgundy, but I will never be willing to pay ů.00 for a bottle of water. So I always look the waiter straight in the eye and ask for a round of New York's finest tap water (which David Letterman once observed was voted best "chunky style" in a national water taste constest).

I had a very light, not too sweet, and extremely pleasing (to my taste) piece of pumpkin pie at Island restaurant (92nd/93rd and Madison, next to Sarabeth's Kitchen) two weeks ago. It was a special, so not sure if it is still available. Might be worth a call.

The issue of how much to tip on wine is a good point that I haven't really considered before. It doesn't take any more effort to serve a 跌 bottle of wine than it does to serve a 贄 one, yet the tip goes up threefold. In the past I have just tipped the usual 15-20% on the entire tab, and more than this if I brought my own bottle of wine to make up for the difference. Am I over-tipping? Do other folks out there tip less incrementally on high dollar wine purchases? Then again, I suppose if I one can afford an expensive bottle of wine, one can afford to tip the waitstaff a bit extra.

One thing worth considering with any of these choices is the space between the tables. I haven't been to March or Firebird so have no idea about these. Unfortunately, nearly every restaurant in Manhattan (even several very expensive ones) packs you in so that there is very little privacy for conversations. A place like Le Bernardin is a welcome exception, though out of the price range suggested here. Not to scare off lemonice, but last spring while having dinner at Montrachet my date and I couldn't help overhearing a gentleman at the next table propose to his date. She turned him down! Actually everyone at the nearby tables and the waitstaff noticed as well, and it became a VERY uncomfortable situation. So if you have any doubts about her response, it might be wise to propose somewhere after the dinner or at least in a restaurant with more privacy. As for me, I like the idea of a hansom cab in Central Park followed by a recession special at Gray's Papaya on 72nd st (eaten at my favorite hotdog dining spot by the fountain at Lincoln Center). Show me a woman in Manhattan who can appreciate spontaneity and the intrinsic value of a well-done Gray's hotdog, and I may be inclined to finally tie the knot myself! (Edited by Felonius at 12:35 pm on Oct. 29, 2001)

Steven - you mentioned that Lespinasse operates at a loss. Why are they still in business then? Is it subsidized by the hotel (i.e. a prestigious restaurant on location helps them to sell more hotel rooms)? Please explain.

I would have to agree with Mao that the majority of patrons at Cafe Boulud are older folks, that appear to be very wealthy and dressed-up Upper East Siders. These are people who probably put on a suit and tie (or for the ladies a Chanel suit and Gucci Shoes) to walk their dogs in the morning. Not exactly the more casual "cafe society" where people drop in for good company and a relaxed meal with old friends, as is envisioned on the website. Then again, the atmosphere and personality of Cafe Boulud don't really fit this more casual vision either. The room is rather formal, the prices are similar to those at Daniel, and the menu is very refined despite the elevated "comfort food" dish here and there. I agree with Steven that it is hard to pinpoint the identity of the place. Was it any different when it first opened? I paid my first visit just this year, and wonder if the cafe has moved upscale since its inception. This is all fine with me (and I am being selfish here I know), because it seems to keep CB from becoming a destination restaurant for tourists and business types, and maintains a pleasant neighborhood feel. The only catch is that in this neighborhood, the "locals" are more likely to have just returned from their summer house in the south of France in a blue blazer and ascot than from the Catskills in a pair of jeans.

Robert - although CB has the reputation as being Daniel Boulud's "second" restaurant, the prices are still pretty steep. The current menus with prices can be viewed at their website: http://www.danielnyc.com/cafe.html Bux - After a long Sunday at the office, I couldn't resist another visit to CB. Went back and had the pierogis and the smoked and roasted king salmon. The pierogis were another hit, though I still prefer the tiny ravioli by a narrow margin. I would agree with Mao's comments that the desserts at CB, while quite good, are not it's strong point. Not sure why, as their pastry chef certainly has the credentials to do major league desserts (not to mention the name "Remy Funfrock", which I think is a great name for a pastry chef). I just have never been blown away by the desserts as I have by the other courses. As I mentioned before, a basket of their fresh Madeleines and a nice glass of Sauternes or Baumes de Venise isn't a bad way to finish the meal in lieu of a regular dessert. As for their fish, this was the first fish dish I've tried and it was outstanding. A big slab of fresh salmon was lightly roasted and smoked, to the perfect point of rare/medium rare tenderness, and served over a bed of lentils with a a bit of mustard sauce. While less complex than the venison dish, the simpler formula here allowed an absolutely perfect piece of salmon to bask in its own glory. Seafood of this quality and freshness (and on a Sunday night no less) needs little dressing up if properly cooked. The smoked flavor gave it just enough weight to go well with a glass of pinot noir. One final note for those who may often dine solo after work as I do. I just dropped in CB and ate at the bar. I was treated like a king, despite the fact that I was in jeans and boots and looked rather scruffy after a casual Sunday at the office.

Had friends visiting town and took them to Cafe Boulud last night. I don't think I've ever had a more satisfying meal in Manhattan. Appetizer - tiny goat cheese ravioli with a squash puree, pecorino cheese and black pepper. These were the lightest and most sublime ravioli I've ever had. They just melt in your mouth. The presentation is interesting - they are submerged in a sort of "foam" (not sure what it is, almost like a much lighter version of sabayon). They are slightly sweet and have a velvety richness without being heavy. My date almost grabbed my plate and finished them off after I had given her a bite. They are offered as either an entree or appetizer. If you go, these are a must-have. Entree - Venison medallions with braised red cabbage and chestnut compote in a juniper sauce. Another marvel. For starters, the venison was the most tender I've ever had, like butter. The flavor was also excellent, just gamey enough to give it some punch, but not overwhelming. The chestnut compote came with some sort of mini dumplings, and made a rich and earthy complement to the venison. The sauce was the right combination of tartness and sweetness. These types of sauces often spoil the wine, but here it was balanced enough to work well with red wine. My date had a lamb shank in red wine sauce, which was also excellent, though not as exciting as the venison. Dessert - a chololate mousse cake with blackberry compote and vanilla ice cream. This was excellent, though didn't thrill me as much as the earlier courses. I think the house standard chocolate soufflee with pistachio ice cream is a better choice in the chocolate department. In a way, I don't really care what I have for dessert at Cafe Boulud, as their complementary basket of freshly baked madeleines usually ends up stealing the show anyway. Wines -The young sommelier at CB, Olivier Flosse, is extremely knowledgeable and enthusiastic about wine. After giving him some direction as to what I was looking for, I left the selections in his capable hands. We started with a 1998 Meursault by Arnaud Ente, a difficult to find wine from a rising star in Burgundy. It was lovely, great acidity and fruit, and classic Meursault mineral "gout de terroir". Next we had the 1999 Gevrey-Chambertin "En Champs" by Denis Mortet. I was hesitant to drink a 1999, but Olivier promised he'd take back the bottle if I didn't love the wine. He was right. A very rich and extracted burgundy, cassis/blackberry fruit, and again the classic mineral component. Mortet uses very old vines and gets great concentration from his fruit. This bigger styled and lush burgundy was a good match for the venison, which otherwise I might have matched with a Bordeaux. The tannins were balanced enough to enjoy the wine now, though certainly 4-5 more years would have been even better. Overall just a marvelous dinner. My guests were equally pleased. The only downside was a packed and rather loud dining room. I'm not used to eating at Cafe Boulud at prime-time on Saturday night, and like most restaurants, the service suffers a bit due to the hectic pace. Still everyone was extremely friendly and helpful. If you try Cafe Boulud and enjoy wine, I suggest you spend some time talking to Olivier, as he is a walking encyclopedia of knowledge on Burgundy. The wines are quite expensive, but at least when you pay the piper you will likely get something that is both excellent and not found on many wine lists outside of France. I have had meals in fancier dining rooms and more exotic settings, but can't remember any more satisfying in terms of sheer pleasure from the food. I haven't eaten at Daniel since May, so it's difficult to make a direct comparison. However, I doubt it could top the meal I had last night at its little sibling Cafe Boulud.

I've lived in several smaller US cities (i.e. San Diego), have always been a good customer at my favorite places, and have enjoyed being considered a "regular" at these establishments. This status was earned by dining at a particular restaurant on a monthly or perhaps more frequent basis, getting to know the management and staff, and consistently tipping in the 20-30% percent range (even more if extra efforts were made on a special occasion, corkage fees were waved, etc.). In return for my patronage, I was usually granted a few perks such as: getting Saturday night reservations without having to book weeks in advance, never having to be stuck at the table by the kitchen, being allowed to bring a special bottle of wine now and then, special amusees bouche or "off the menu" items, and most importantly I always new I could count on a warm welcome and flawless service when I most needed it (Parents visiting town, friend's birthday dinner, hot date, etc.). Now I find myself in Manhattan, competing with 8 million people, including countless celebrities, a myriad of moguls, and people who can probably eat daily at Daniel without checking their bank balance. Is it possible for a mere mortal to become a "regular" at a top NYC restaurant? Have any fellow board members pulled this off? If so, where, and what did it take? In the year I've been here, I have grown weary of dealing with bad attitudes from obnoxious reservationists, of waiting an hour for a table I supposedly had reserved, of buying an expensive bottle of wine at a restaurant only to be treated like a cheapskate when subsequently asking permission to bring a bottle from my collection for a special occasion, and being stuck at the two-top behind the bus station on a first date. I don't harbor any secret desire to hang with the "A-list" in New York , I just want a great restaurant that I can count on, like an old friend, to come through for me when I need it. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Steven, I have never fully bought into the Austro-Hungarian thing at Danube either, and just the thought of it kept me from trying it for some time. However I finally visited about a year ago (I was stuck working in the city on Thanksgiving, and treated myself to a solo meal at Danube in consolation), and have been back on occasion. While it has never satisfied me in the same way as Bouley Bakery, I think it holds its own among the best restaurants in NYC in terms of quality and value. What follows is a description of Danube that I sent in an e-mail to a friend and fellow foodie. While I can't compare the food to what was being served during the time frame of your visit several years ago, it will give you an idea of my general impressions. 7 Oct 01 I had a great evening at Danube on Friday, though it still left me wishing slightly for Bouley Bakery. The dinner was a birthday celebration for a friend, and so there were seven of us. I had originally tried to reserve a table at Bouley Bakery, but they are still using their kitchens with the Red Cross to provide food to the rescue workers. I have to say that the service and attitude of the staff at Danube could not have been better. Some of my guests were late, and since Danube's phones are still out of service, I had no way to call to let them know. Also, 3 of the group arrived in town at the last minute. We showed up 45 minutes late with 3 extra people, and the manager went out of his way to accommodate us. In addition, I brought two bottles of excellent red Burgundy, since I really didn't want to drink Austrian reds or have to choose from Danube's somewhat limited selection of French and American red wine. I told the manager that I would be happy to start with a white from their list, and while I realized that they didn't usually allow BYOB, that perhaps our table could make a donation to their Red Cross effort in lieu of buying red wines from their list. They took all of this in stride and served our wines alongside the excellent Austrian Riesling (1998 Pichler from the Wachau region) we chose from their extensive list. We did the tasting menu, and everything was first rate both in presentation and flavor. The highlight for me was the lobster and homemade ravioli in a light saffron/mango (and a bit of cumin maybe?) broth. Other seafood courses included a “perfect” raw oyster and a slightly heated shrimp. The only nod to Austria was a schnitzel thing (fried veal I guess), which didn't do much for me. The main meat course was lamb, which was excellent but nothing particularly transcendental. For me the wines were the most satisfying aspect of the meal. Danube has a great list of Austrian whites from the best producers, and many of these wines are very tough to come by in the US. While Danube’s other wines tend to be overpriced (though no more so than at Jean Georges, Daniel, and other competitors in NYC), the Austrian wines are a better value. Also we had a Kracher dessert wine (late harvest Reisling), that was out of this world - the next best thing this side of Chateau D’ Yquem in terms of concentration and depth. I have to admit I still prefer Bouley Bakery for the food, which in my humble opinion is better in terms of flavor and concept. To me, the presentation at Danube is a bit too formal or over the top. Maybe I just don’t quite buy into the Austrian concept, so it ends up distracting me unnecessarily. It's sort of the same way I feel about Daniel vs. Cafe Boulud, I prefer the slightly simpler and direct approach at CB to the super-refined dishes at Daniel. Danube still carries through with some of the Bouley magic though, and is definitely worth a visit. The tasting menu at ๠ is also somewhat of a bargain when compared to the prices at some competitors. In addition, for some reason unknown to me, the service at Danube is usually superior to that at Bouley Bakery. The atmosphere is much more sophisticated as well - it really is a gorgeous dining room, and makes a great backdrop for a special occasion. One tiny detail that also works in Danube’s favor - their unique house cocktail of champagne infused with elderflower essence is a winner. Everyone in our dinner party loved it - even guys like me that usually won't be seen at a bar drinking anything but scotch or bourbon. Sipping one of these in the elegant Danube cocktail bar is a much better way to start one’s evening than hanging out on the street outside Bouley Bakery (which has no bar or waiting area). (Edited by Felonius at 2:40 pm on Oct. 17, 2001) (Edited by Felonius at 2:44 pm on Oct. 17, 2001) (Edited by Felonius at 2:46 pm on Oct. 17, 2001)

I've brought wines to both neighborhood and high-end restaurants. From my experience in the high-end places, if anyone tastes the wine in the dining room it is usually the sommelier. This was the case at Danube ("The" Danube?) a few weeks ago. The sommelier who had decanted the wines brought over a glass and tasted at our table after we had finished our main course. This was done at my insistence, and no one at the table felt it was inappropriate. Sommeliers at fine restaurants will often taste the wines they have decanted, to ensure that the bottle is not "off" before serving the customer, so I don't see anything too unusual about this. As for the wait staff, this is a more delicate issue. I usually wait until the latter part of the meal, thank them for such fine service, and suggest that they take the remaining wine back to the kitchen for anyone who might like to try it. This is a bit tricky as one must ensure that A) the wine has not been completely poured during dinner, and B) there is enough wine left to allow for a decent taste without getting to the sediment or dregs if it's an older red wine. I can't remember having anyone ever refuse such an offer, and usually the waiter or waitress will return later with a sly smile and thank me in an unobtrusive fashion. I will sometimes also do this if I have ordered a particularly interesting or special wine off the restaurant's list. While the sommelier has probably tried the wine, I doubt the wait staff has, so I'll offer a bit to them. I believe it is a useful oppurtunity for them to expand their knowledge of wines, and to get a taste of the magic they are working hard to provide for customers. (Edited by Felonius at 1:59 pm on Oct. 17, 2001)

Robert - thanks for the welcome aboard. I have been a longtime fan of the Fat-Guy site but never ventured over to this board until yesterday. It's a great resource I should have tapped into earlier!<p>I second your thought on sharing with the server. This is something I always offer when I bring wine to a restaurant, and I usually offer a taste to both the waiter/waitress and the sommelier. I do this as much for the pleasure of sharing a love for wine, as I do to get in their good graces (although that helps too). <p>This attitude is something I really miss from my days living in California. More often than not in fine restaurants in CA, I found that the owners and staff really understood and enjoyed wine, and were eager to share this interest with their customers. The markups were generally much lower than on the East Coast, and I got the sense that restauranteurs were encouraging customers to try new wines or perhaps go for something more special than they had in the past. Though many restaurants advertised a corkage fee, it was seldom charged, and I can't remember ever being snubbed for bringing a bottle. Usually, my arrival with something special would lead to an enthusiastic discussion with the waitstaff, and smiles all around as we enjoyed the winemaker's art. <p>I have never experienced this in Manhattan. Instead I am forced to pay 2 to 4x markup for immature wines from unimaginative lists (there are notable exceptions such as Babbo). Some of the high end restaurants such as Daniel have excellent lists, but alas I am neither a tycoon nor a celebrity and can't dole out megabucks for a bottle of wine on a regular basis. Even if I could, I feel it's a bit obscene to be throwing ? at a bottle of wine, even more so when that bottle may be bought retail for ? or less. It's sort of a combination of highway robbery and conspicuous consumption at its worst. <p>All I want to do is enjoy great wines with great food, and to share this enjoyment with others in a low-key way. Any suggestions from other folks here on places this might happen in Manhattan would be greatly appreciated.

Danube is indeed open. I ate there on October 5th (I think it re-opened on the 3rd) and had an excellent meal. At that time Bouley Bakery's kitchen was still being used to support the Red Cross food effort, and I had a drink with a few kind volunteers who were unwinding in the Danube bar following a 12 hour shift in the kitchen. I suspect Bouley Bakery may now be open to the public again. If their land line is still out, try calling the following cell # (917) 929-9950. That's how I made reservations a few weeks ago. Good luck. The excellent food only tastes better when you realize you are supporting David Bouley's generous efforts to help support the rescue workers. (Edited by Felonius at 10:22 pm on Oct. 16, 2001)

I have also been wondering about this, as I have a hard time finding decent wines of drinkable vintages at NY restaurants without taking out a second mortgage. I used to live in California, and was never discouraged from bringing a nice bottle to restaurants where I was a regular patron. I realize that restaurants need to make money on wine, but I have hard time justifying markups of 200-300% at many restaurants in NYC. I recently got stiffed for 贬 for a ำ bottle of recent vintage burgundy at one of NYC's more famous French restaurants. I usually end up eating at Tartine if I want to bring wine, as it is BYOB only. I have also brought a bottle to Cafe Luxembourg. They were nice on the phone about it, but seemed a bit miffed when I actually showed up with a bottle - even though I bought another rather expensive bottle off their list as well. A few weeks ago I went to Danube when it first re-opened. I brought two bottles of Burgundy, mainly because it was a special occasion and I don't care for their list of red wines. I offered to make a donation to their rescue relief effort in lieu of corkage (which they don't usually offer). The manager accepted without any problem, and decanted and served my wines with the same care as if we had bought them. We also bought somebottles of Austrian white wines off their list (which were fantastic). I would like to know if anyone has tried to bring bottles to the other restaurants mentioned in this thread and in Zagat's. I have the feeling that saying they have a corkage and actually treating you like a human being when bringing a bottle are two different things! I'm not trying to save money by bringing in a cheap bottle, I just would like to have the chance to drink some of my wine collection with food a bit more sophisticated than that at Tartine, and I don't have time to cook at home these days. However, I don't want to be treated with contempt by the staff for bringing my own wine. I have grown very fond of the food at Cafe Boulud, and am wondering if I should approach them about bringing in some wine now that I am a more regular customer. I would kill to have a great Chambolle-Musigny with their food! Any thoughts?