Morgan_Weber
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Posts posted by Morgan_Weber
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Hehe...duely noted.
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Mayhaw Man, I hear he has already been spending more time in his NOLA eateries. Is this true? If so, that should be refreshing.
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FINALLY! I am happy for him. FN has whored him out for too long. I wish him the best and thank him for all he has done for food and TV. He has inspired millions. Cheers Emeril.
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I'm particularly curious if people think Tony's is worth the money, and what they've liked or not liked.
I had a great friend who went to Tony's last week with his wife and extended family. I mostly trust his palate and he said it was pretty ho-hum. Sorry I don't have any first hand information.
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I read this on Cleverly's Houston Restaurant Blog. Has anyone been there or heard about it. My wife played harp for a wedding there a few months ago and said it was beautiful, but Relais & Chateau? That puts it on par with places like Meadowood in Napa, or the La Mars Hotel in Healdsburg, Sonoma, or the French Laundry, etc. Is it time to take a pilgrimage to Brenham?
From her post:
"Congratulations to the Inn at Dos Brisas, the newest member of the prestigious
Relais & Châteaux, a global association of 470 of the finest hotels and gourmet
restaurants in 55 countries. There are only 67 members in North America.
The Inn at Dos Brisas is a fine dining country restaurant and luxury retreat in Brenham, Texas.
They make every effort to use organic fruits and vegetables on their menus, sourcing ingredients
from their own organic gardens and local farmers. The executive chef is Jason Robinson.
www.DosBrisas.com
To qualify for membership in Relais & Châteaux, hotels and restaurants must assemble
an application that testifies to its exclusive nature and adherence to the qualities and ideals
that define a sense of place, harmony, being, personal generosity and fellowship.
The property is then visited anonymously by an independent evaluation company
that reviews hundreds of important criteria, as well as by current Relais & Châteaux
member management.
Applications and visitation reports are rigorously reviewed by the Board of Directors
and finally, at the annual Board of Directors meeting every year. This process typically
takes several years.
Relais & Châteaux members in North America include New York restaurants Daniel (Daniel Boulud);
Aureole (Charlie Palmer); Le Bernardin (Eric Ripert and Maguy Le Coze); Per Se (Thomas Keller);
Jean Georges (Jean-Georges Vongerichten); The Inn at Little Washington, Virginia (Patrick O’Connell
and Reinhardt Lynch); Charlie Trotter’s, Chicago (Charlie Trotter); Tru, Chicago (Rick Tramonto);
The Little Nell, Aspen; The French Laundry, Yountville, (Thomas Keller); Gary Danko, San Francisco
(Gary Danko) and Patina, Los Angeles, (Joachim Splichal)."
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...can you elaborate on how different the cue is?
When I showed up to Beaver’s for the opening, last Monday night, I honestly wanted to NOT like it as much as I initially wanted to LIKE T’afia. When my wife and I were heading to the restaurant, we had no idea what to expect, other than what we had read on the menu from their website. It seemed interesting, but we weren’t really sure what sort of concept they were going for—I mean, a vegetarian burger at a BBQ joint?
Our opinion changed almost immediately as we drove up. Having not ever driven by the original Beaver’s, we didn’t even know what the building looked like. To my delight, it isn’t some overproduced façade that is trying to act like something it isn’t. The building is just an honest to goodness hole-in-the-wall (cinder block walls with blue icicle lights hanging from the roofline).
Once inside, the place has a cool ambience—I like it anyway. Brighter colors, with an open feel, stained concrete and naturally finished wood. In the center of the room against the far wall, is the well-stocked bar, with Bobby and Dave, two of the most knowledgeable bartenders in Houston behind it. Dedicated to the classics, these guys can pour just about anything you’d like, from a proper Old Fashioned, to an Aviation (last time I was there Dave told me he was trying to secure some Crème de Violette as well).
We had a seat and were given menus to look over. The place, although hip on the inside, had that traditional BBQ smell that every real BBQ place in Texas has. We ended up ordering pork ribs, pork shoulder, NOLA Beans (bourbon and molasses), macaroni & cheese, and some dessert. Now, I’m traditionally someone who prefers wet ribs, and Beaver’s’ ribs come dry with a side of house-made sauce. I took my first bite and was blown away. They are some of the best ribs that I’ve ever had in my life; they didn’t need sauce. The pork shoulder, as well, was delicious. I believe the shoulder comes with some of the house-made North Carolina BBQ sauce on it.
Before I get into some of the other things we had, I should probably address the sauce. I have had two. The North Carolina sauce is a sweeter vinegar-based sauce that is almost syrupy in texture. It has some bite, but grows on you. The sauce that has been served with the ribs and on my second visit, the brisket, is what I would compare to as a more traditional BBQ sauce. I wouldn’t call it traditional Central Texas BBQ sauce, but once you taste it, hopefully you’ll understand. Initially, I was a little disappointed with the sauces, mainly because I was expecting or hoping for a more traditional Central Texas-style sauce; all this to say, I now love them both. They are great on their own and don’t need to be compared to other sauces. Some people might disagree with me, and that is ok…only my opinion.
The beans were awesome. They too don’t harken to tradition, but their sweet, smoky, and boozy flavors all work really well together. The macaroni & cheese were also tasty. Don’t expect a casserole-type dish. They are nicely cheesy (real cheese, not processed, of course), and topped with stewed tomatoes—again, not traditional Southern fare, but really tasty.
On my second visit (four days later), a buddy of mine and I knocked out their wings as an appetizer, more ribs, brisket, potato salad, and more beans. We both agreed that the wings were some of the best wings either of us had ever had. We were sitting at the bar, and the chef, Dax MacAnear, came in several times to speak with the bartenders. On one occasion, Bobby took the opportunity to introduce my friend and I to Dax. Dax came from the Benjy’s kitchen and seems to be obsessed about good food. It shows in his BBQ. An extremely nice guy, he gave us a tour of the kitchen, ending with the smoker. This smoker is serious. In Houston, two companies make reputable pits, Klose and Pits & Spits—the former, being the more serious of the two. Mr. Klose has been making pits in Houston since 1986 and they are world renown. They even got a little TV press a couple of years ago, when Tony Bourdain did a feature on Houston, for Food Network. For more info on Klose Pits: http://www.bbqpits.com/
The meat probably is one of the biggest aspects that sets their food apart from any other BBQ joint in Houston. Their brisket which was also incredible, comes from Harris Ranch, in Central California. http://www.harrisranchbeef.com/hrbc_index.html . They get their pork from Jolie Vue farms www.jolievuefarms.com, who has some of the most lovingly-produced pork in Texas. We sampled some other Jolie Vue pork that they have been playing with and can only hope that it makes it on the menu one day. We also tasted some of Jolie Vue’s sausage which was great. Dax told me that he's pretty sure they are going to go to a 70%-30% pork/fat ratio fairly soon for their sausage, which he thinks will make it even better; at this point who am I to disagree.
I believe he told me that they use a mixture of mesquite and maple in the firebox. I know that isn’t traditional either, but please wait to eat the awesome product before passing judgment on the wood choice.
I think all in all, it is hard to pigeon hole Beaver’s as just a BBQ joint. It is much more than that. I think testujustin said it perfectly, “ [beaver’s is] a comfort food joint that takes their BBQ seriously. But again it isn't Central Texas Style BBQ, but it is very good BBQ.” Beaver’s is Pope’s take on BBQ and comfort food. Though I obviously had my reservations in the beginning, they are gone and I can already tell that I will have to limit myself to no more than one trip per week-ish.
Also things of note: The awesome beer list and the homemade libation concoctions.
edited for grammatical issues...
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Well, I have to admit a bit later I did get some tannic aftertastes. I guess the sugar syrup covered it up initially. Definitely more like the tannins from soaked oak or mesquite chips than grape tannins.
Still the syrup is kind of nice.
By the way, they call the Mesquite sap globules "Mesquite Marbles" in Arizona. There are also syrups, candies, and other things made from Mesquite pods and beans. Mesquites are legumes, so the beans and pods of the trees are actually quite nutritious.
This might be for another thread, but Mesquite trees, I'm continually finding, are incredibly versatile. I used mesquite flour in a chocolate chip cookie recipe a few weeks ago, and they were awesome.
Mesquite Flour:
http://www.celiac.com/catalog/product_info...products_id=754
Mesquite Flour Chocolate Chip Cookies:
http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2007...colate_chi.html
OK, OK, back to (not so) simple syrups...
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I'm excited to check this palce out, though I question their exclusive use of Vya. Vya dry is really not conducive to making most classic drinks calling for dry vermouth aside from the Martini, it's just too different.
Shows that their heart is definitely in the right place though.
-Andy
Yeah, I have a feeling they'll be working some of the kinks out. Wifey and I are going to drop by there this evening to see what its like. I'm sure the kitchen will have some hiccups for the first few weeks, while they get into the swing of things, but I want to see how quickly they progress.
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Just wanted to let everyone know, it seems like our city finally has a bar that is serious about cocktails. It is in the midtown area and is called Beaver's. If anyone follows the Explore the Pour cocktail blog, masterfully written by my friend, Robert Heugel, you'll know that he recently took a job there. Here are his comments on the place.
"I have been very busy lately (note the lack of posts) because I am bartending at a new bar/restaurant called Beaver's. Funny name, but very serious food and drinks! There are countless examples I could provide of the quality, but just to name a few, here we go. We've got 9 different bitters (2 made in house), we only use Vya vermouths, and there are at least two, count them one-two, bartenders who can make you just about anything you could come up with the way it was made 100 years ago. I can't believe it, but there actually is another bartender in this city who loves classic cocktails just as much as myself. Combine that with one of the city's most respected chefs as a co-owner, Monica Pope, and one of Houston's next great chefs running the kitchen, Dax MacAnear, and you've got a great meal and outstanding drinks. I haven't been this excited about a place in a VERY long time. I hope that if you are in Houston, you will come in and see us. Our doors open today, so try and get in here some time this week. I will post more as soon as I get some free time (opening a new place is very demanding) and give some more details about the place."
http://explorethepour.blogspot.com/
I hope the next time any of you are in Houston, you'll swing by and support this oasis in the middle of our cocktailian dessert.
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Well, maybe I anticipated wrongly about Beaver's. The door's open today. Here is a quote from a friend of mine's blog. He just took a job there bartending. I spoke with him yesterday and he's very excited about the place. It sounds like they're taking the food and the drinks extremely seriously.
"I have been very busy lately (note the lack of posts) because I am bartending at a new bar/restaurant called Beaver's. Funny name, but very serious food and drinks! There are countless examples I could provide of the quality, but just to name a few, here we go. We've got 9 different bitters (2 made in house), we only use Vya vermouths, and there are at least two, count them one-two, bartenders who can make you just about anything you could come up with the way it was made 100 years ago. I can't believe it, but there actually is another bartender in this city who loves classic cocktails just as much as myself. Combine that with one of the city's most respected chefs as a co-owner, Monica Pope, and one of Houston's next great chefs running the kitchen, Dax MacAnear, and you've got a great meal and outstanding drinks. I haven't been this excited about a place in a VERY long time. I hope that if you are in Houston, you will come in and see us. Our doors open today, so try and get in here some time this week. I will post more as soon as I get some free time (opening a new place is very demanding) and give some more details about the place."
-Bobby Heugel
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so here's the menu. any opinions or impressions other than the obvious tongue in cheekers like "Beaver Nut Burger" or "Beaver Balls"?
http://beavershouston.com/centeredmenu.html
seems to me like they might be trying to hard. i'm looking forward to checking it out, though my expectations aren't the highest....
oh and that background makes me want to dig my eyes out...hello web design.
edited for grammar issues.
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Are there any other liqueurs or spirits he should look out for? He's also going to...cough...Cozumel...
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I don't know about swizzle sticks, but have them be sure to look out for Wray & Nephew Allspice Liqueur and Appleton Estates 21 yr rum.
So any suggestions from anyone on where to get the Wray & Nephew Allspice Liqueur in Jamaica?
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So next weekend (the weekend after Thanksgiving) a friend of mine is going to be going to Jamaica and Grand Cayman for a week.
Does anyone know where he might look to successfully procure a half dozen swizzle sticks to bring back to the states?
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Putting the irony in Iron Chef, Kat "I have no qualifications for this" Kora kept yammering away about what was and was not iron chef material. Dio mio! I guess if anyone would be acutely aware of "it," she would, but I can only imagine how much it made both finalists want to cringe having to listen to her. Please could we lose you and install both of these real chefs into the pantheon?
YES! YES! YES!
I couldn't believe her! Throw her away...
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So what's the consensus on smoking in a more classy bar? Good or bad?
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But would it have girls?
Okay, going away now...
girls? of course there'd be girls...and good lookin ones.
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Damn. I was so pulling for Besh, but it looks like he seized defeat from the jaws of victory.
Symon is going go to be great, though.
Yeah, we were too. My wife and I were able to eat at Restaurant August a couple of weeks before the NICA series began. The tasting menu opened with a variation on the cold smoked swordfish that he started with tonight. It was one of the most memorable dishes that I have ever eaten. She and I were really pulling for him. All of that to say, I am cannot wait to return to August during Tales of the Cocktail next year. Cheers to John Besh. We're really proud of you.
-Morgan & Stacey Weber
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This thread topic might totally fold, but I'm sure people on eGullet have their opinions,
Regarding the details and minutiae, what are some of the things that you like in a bar and what are some of the things that irritate and drive you crazy?
(ie. if you were going to open your own bar, you would definitely include/exclude these details)
edited to add: We'll take for granted that the bar is serious about making great drinks...
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I've seen them on eBay.
I can find them all over Houston. I'd buy some to support the effort....but its vodka...
Edited because of my horrible spelling.
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My good friend just moved to Houston for work and he'll only be there for a couple months. I'd like to give him some good recommendations for food. He's not super adventurous but he's working on it. He's started to eat more upscale and ethnic food with increasing frequency but at heart he's really a cheeseburger, Mexican food, pizza, and BBQ kind of guy. He'd probably appreciate a good dive bar or sports bar for watching sporting events. Also, some recommendations for nice restaurants and cocktail bars for when his girlfriend comes into town would also be appreciated.
He has a car but doesn't care a whole lot for Houston traffic. Still, he probably wouldn't mind driving for something really special. I believe he's on the other side of 610 from Memorial Park near the Galleria.
Thanks in advance for any help.
For BBQ IMO its really only Williams, Thelmas or Burns.
OOOOOH i forgot Burns BBQ. It's a little off the beaten track, but it is AWESOME!
I got burned once at Thelmas and haven't been back. I should probably drop by that place again...
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i've been impressed with the cocktail menu at mark's. ken, the bar manager at mark's is a great mixologist and infuses his own vodkas. go there, sit at the bar and order cocktails and appetizers. and ask ken what he has special back there. he had a pear and ginger vodka earlier this year that was heavenly.
reef also has an interesting cocktail menu. there was something with grapefruit in it that wasn't too sweet or tart.
Had drinks at REEF last night with a coworker. When I sat down at the bar, I asked the bartender if they used fresh juices. He replied with a yes, so I ordered a Sidecar. It came out and tasted of grapefruit juice, vodka, and soda.
http://www.drinkboy.com/cocktails/recipes/Sidecar.html
Confused, I apologized and said, "Oh, I'm sorry, I meant a Sidecar with brandy, triple sec, and lemon juice...he replied, "no problem". He came back with a sickly sweet and sour drink that sort of resembled the old classic. From there I ordered a glass of wine...
This was my second trip to REEF. My conclusion is that it is a bit ho-hum...not great, but not awful...
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HA. Who likes Houston traffic?!?!
That being said, Bubba's Texas Burger Shack on Westpark near Sage has some of my favorite burger's in the city.
Right down the road from Bubba's on Richmond, just inside the 610 Loop, is the Luling City Meat Market. Their BBQ is some of the best in the area. Controversial as it might be, I'm not a Goode Co. BBQ fan.
Collina's, is a great local Italian establishment that is BYOB and has several locations around Houston.
Another hip/trendy Italian food joint is Dolce Vita, East of Montrose on Westheimer. Reminds me of Babbo in NYC.
Niko Niko's, on Montrose, just North of Westheimer has great Greek and American food.
Although I'm not a Goode Co. BBQ fan, I do enjoy their Taqueria across the street. They have great burgers and Tex Mex.
Maria Selma on Richmond, West of Montrose has some of the city's best Mexican food. Also to forget their Tequila selection, would be irresponsible of me. It is quite good.
Mexican food in the Westchase area--Sylvia's Enchilada Kitchen is not to be missed.
For CHEAP Mexican food that is only a few miles East of the Westchase District, is Chacho's on Westheimer. I compare it to Taco Cabana, only with a much higher quality of food.
Private message me if you need some more suggestions. These were only a few off the top of my head.
Good luck!
edited for grammatical clarity
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Out of the corner of my eye, I saw the bartender grab a bottle of Remy VSOP and Grand Marnier. I thought this was a pretty premium choice of booze, for me not having specified, but I didn't say anything.
In addition to your stated problems with this drink, isn't a Sidecar made with triple sec/Cointreau - the use of Grand Marnier doesn't make any sense at all in a Sidecar.
Yes, traditionally I believe it is triple-sec or Cointreau, but I wouldn't say that it doesn't make ANY sense in a Sidecar (although, I have never grabbed it when making my own), afterall it is an orange-infused brandy instead of orange-infused grain alchohol. All that to say, I'm sure such a mental argument never crossed this bartender's mind. He probably just looks at Grand Marnier as the fanciest 'orange stuff' in the bar.
The hoax of leftover-turkey recipes
in Cooking
Posted · Edited by Morgan_Weber (log)
I got shamed into making stock from my turkey carcass by Ruhlman. I now have 8 quarts of rich delicious nectar in my freezer.
Here's the post...a good read.
http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2007/11...sgiving-th.html