
tan319
eGullet Society staff emeritus-
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Everything posted by tan319
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Hi Dorie, thanks for posting! If you can, can you elaborate on the "dulce de leche" , matcha style for us? Like how it's served, any ideas of how he does it, etc.? Much obliged!
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Beautiful pix, thanks for sharing. Any favorites of his cakes, etc.?
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His websites for shoppes in Paris & Tokyo and one soon in New York in 2007, he claims. The products look beautiful and more pages will be added soon, I think. Unfortunately his bigger productions can only be found in the mag or their online presence, I believe. Pastrys Best Magazine Maybe you can get one of the last copies of the freebie? Hope you enjoy! edited to add this Other Paris website, outstanding! I had forgotten about various pix of his work that had been posted earlier... 'Gullet thread Really impressed...
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Nice one, tupac! I'm glad to see that Alex's work is being welcomed and making people happy!
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Found pics of Alex Stupaks new desserts on flikr here. Very impressive looking. ← what Sethro said... Nice!
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You can find Dextrose or powdered glucose ( NOT by Pastry 1 or Patisfrance) in many world markets or Asian grocerys, ones that sell real Asian product. It usually comes in a can. Like what chestnut paste would be contained in. I've never used these as substitutes for Pastry 1 products but wouldn't hesitate if needed. Hope this helps.
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Pastry chef Pichet Ong is a busy guy right now. In the New York Times Magazine last week writer Amanda Hesser brought back a Meringue Torte recipe they first published in the '70s and brought it to Pichet, who updated it to a slightly less sweet dessert of meringue nests scented with Kaffir Lime and a lime custard with a papaya "salad" garnish! New York Times Mag article It's a nice piece. both recipes are very good! In the meantime, Pichet is readying the opening of his Dessert Restaurant/ Bar/Ice Creamerie/etc. aptly named 'P*ONG'. Couple that with a demo at the First International Chefs Congress starchefs.com/icc and hopefully some promo for his first cookbook to published late this year and that = 'whew!' Here's his website again if you haven't seen it yet pichetong.com PS: The NYTimes site requires registration but it's worth it, imo.
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Question, especially after the NYTimes euology/thoughts on GILT... Was it REALLY that radical? And i don't mean that in a bad way, simply that by Liebrandts own admission he was toning it down and he was running a modern and classical sided menu. But since this isn't really about the former place, I give a vote to upper downtown, Flatiron etc.
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Hoping you folks get to do a dinner at the ICC!
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It will be great to see what the next adventure is like! Thanks for checking in, Laterlus. As for an above comment of mine, I don't wish the next chef any ill will or lack of success. I'm merely disappointed at the struggles that people like Liebrandt and Dufresne have had at trying to do something a bit different. Good Luck!
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I am not sure it was a sudden change, it appears since Gilt opened the hotel management wanted the food to still be creative but "more accessible". I had 3 dinners at Gilt that ranged from great to excellent but I got it, not everyone "gets it", ostensibly most e gulleteer would since the community tends to be more food savvy. Unfortunately, the typical folks who went to Le cirque 2000 which was like an Appleby's for the super wealthy dont eat Liebrandts kind of food. Certainly the Bruni review was like the significant nail in the coffin. It probably opens the discussion about if NYC has enough interest to support anything above the very good but essentially "Safe" cooking that you get at places like Per Se, Jean Georges and ADNY......(removing WD-50 from the equation just for the sake of argument). As I see it, outside of what Wylie does,no one else seems to push the envelope...? I would have to say I agree with Liebrandt, bad PR, reviewed too soon and questionable perception by the reviewer. Definitely true,If he had a wylie-esque setup without hotel honchos to answer to, he would do better, Imagine WD 50 in some silly uptown hotel ? Let the art flow......that is without listening to the food and beverage manager's BS. Sketch works in London, Gilt should work in NYC for christs sake... Probably not a drastic change, I think they just want slightly simpler food but still really creative. Certainly wont be Liebrandt / gagnaire-ish but probably still pretty modern. The answer lies in who the new chef is.......there is always a solid forensic trail of recent cookery. The new chef is actually coming from Philadelphia of all places...... Christopher Lee / Striped Bass formerly of Oceana, this years Food and Wine best new chefs, James Beard winner. You want any clue to what Gilt will be serving come september, check out the Bass's menus http://www.stripedbassrestaurant.com/ ← I would say that the Striped Bass menu is what one would call pretty accessible. Like there isn't a zillion of those around. Don't you think that's what The Helmsly wants? It would be sort of ironic (?) if the new guy started getting hassled to "be more like Paul", no?
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I read it at the bookstore. If you're still in NYC maybe Virgin megastore or B&N? I normally collect these things but ...
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Re: London split. It's been awhile since I've been there but I suppose Soho and Camden are kind of hipper places. I read the W magazine story today. It's been suggested that the Hotel didn't like the tone of the article perhaps and blew Liebrandt out but I can hardly imagine that a chef who's been cooking for all of this time didn't see the writing on the wall and got some stuff off his chest? Maybe it's because I've been in this business for awhile now but I didn't find anything in the article rude or offensive. According to it, Liebrandt felt they opened too quickly, it appears he didn't think too much of the Full page ads in the papers announcing GILT's opening, that it was setting it up for slapping around and of course, it would go w/o saying that he didn't feel too good about the NYTimes review. It seems like his investors are intact, that it was a hotel decision to change things, but I could be wrong. RE: You do make a good point about location but do you think that downtown can support the 145.00 + tasting menu concept? It all reminds me of what people did to Will Goldfarb when he was at CRU.
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Do you remember which show. I'd really like to see it. I worked with Paul at a Starchefs event was and he was kind, generous and had a killer sense of humor. I wish him the best. ← Found it. http://www.foodnetwork.com/food/show_cc/ep...7_44579,00.html ← What did he cook on the show? Thanks!
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Sorry to read that you're not too keen on the resetting (freezing) the ice cream. I think the way the Paco jet started was because European chefs seem to prefer ice creams that have just been churned, very soft, etc. If you do a search you'll see a few threads on the Paco and a few of the chefs who use the Paco all of the time seem to prefer churning things like caramel ice cream in a batch freezer, as a rule. Good luck to you!
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The air valve notwithstanding, I was able to work with a Paco for awhile and these were things I noticed. I was in a very hot envior too so... You should Paco your ice creams before service so they have some time to reset to get that perfect creamy texture. We had a big ice cream freezer that you reach down into that was damned cold and would vent the top at service to keep it from getting too cold. Worked very well. The Dulce de leche ice cream we did was very soft, once it was processed, probably because of the high sugar content. Maybe it's the same for your Caramel I/C? My advice would be to Paco the whole beaker before service and let it set back up. Good Luck!
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Best suggestion... Leave the recipes in their "original" state, aka before tweaking. It will kill you if your rep gets screwed with, just as an honest person, know what i mean? I think you're making a good move, good luck, I mean it!
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can you point out the constructive part because um, i'm not seeing it. i didn't get much of an idea of the food at all. flavor doesn't seem to figure into it too much. all i learned from that was that you seem to be easily, perhaps perpetually bored, and have a strong preference for another chef you like to promote. ← It DID kind of come off that way... Was kind of needless (IMO) to hype Mason in that way since I think they're part of a sort of supportive community. One other thing I'd like to add. I never got the feelings from ANYTHING I've read, internet, print, mainstream, etc, that R4D had the slightest semblence to 'Finale'. ← for what it's worth, i have no affiliation to any chef. i just didn't think r4d's flavors were worth the hype/cost. next time i'll try to be more constructive. ← I, not freshherbs made the comment about Finale. While I don't dispute that neither articles nor posts compare the two establishment, since Finale was the only dessert restaurant that I had ever tried it was the sole reference point for which I could judge R4D. While I had thought that Finale had a better dessert selection, clearly R4D was more cutting edge and therefore had more potential. ← I knew it was your post, just trying to use less space...
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Sam Mason Website Some great looking new desserts on his photos page that even I haven't seen you guys write about. Once you click on the pic move your mouse over the pic to read the description. Great work, Sam!
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can you point out the constructive part because um, i'm not seeing it. i didn't get much of an idea of the food at all. flavor doesn't seem to figure into it too much. all i learned from that was that you seem to be easily, perhaps perpetually bored, and have a strong preference for another chef you like to promote. ← It DID kind of come off that way... Was kind of needless (IMO) to hype Mason in that way since I think they're part of a sort of supportive community. One other thing I'd like to add. I never got the feelings from ANYTHING I've read, internet, print, mainstream, etc, that R4D had the slightest semblence to 'Finale'.