Kropotkin

Another commentary on HB's search for perfection here... Guardian online...

I've not been to the great city of Belfast for a couple of years now, but Cayenne used to be a pretty safe bet and offered a decent atmosphere. I wasn't so convinced by Beatrice Kennedy (a little nearer to the University) though, despite local recommendations. It's a required stop on the tourist trail, but I think the Crown Liquor Saloon is still a magnificent place for drinking - especially if you can bag a booth (although I'm sure locals will say it's spoiled by all the foreign punters squeezing in...)

We enjoyed a genuinely excellent late lunch at the Star last Sunday as a beautiful Autumn day faded into a crisp and clear night for Bonfires and Fireworks. As I'm sure others have, we left thinking how pleasant it would be if only more pubs were like The Star at Harome... So the good news for those in East Yorkshire is that The Pipe and Glass in South Dalton, nested just North of Beverley amidst the rolling Yorkshire Wolds, is starting to shape up nicely within these fine-traditions. The chef-proprietor is James MacKenzie, formerly sous- and head-chef at the Star. After three visits, I'd say the starters and mains are a little less complex than the Star's, but nevertheless deliver good quality in substantial portions. The menu is also more extensive than (the smaller) Star's, and there's normally one of two clearly-labelled 'pub-classics' such as 'Proper Prawn cocktail' on offer (although I've not tried these yet). The local provenance of most produce is noted clearly, and seems to be celebrated by the chef. There's a longer wine list than you might expect, and while the dessert choices aren't as extensive as the earlier courses, they nevertheless stand up well against gastropub fare. I should note that MacKenzie has been at pains in the local press to distance himself from the 'Gastropub' label and the baggage it entails. In his words, if I recall, he wants this to remain a local pub that happens to do good food for a bite after work, or for more special occassions. Whether or not the market positions The Pipe and Glass as a gastropub regardless of all this remains to be seen. Anyway, the place boasts several advantages that might help it span all these constituencies. It enjoys a idyllic location down a country lane and is very nicely set out within. There's a sizeable bar, a comfy lounge and two very spacious dining rooms with big solid tables, big chairs and plenty of room all around. There's also a huge conservatory with a splendid table for c. 14-16 flanked by two long pews. Meanwhile an embryonic deli is taking shape in one lobby. On my visits, the service was well-drilled throughout. So, get there while it's new (c. 6 months old at the moment); there's already a 5-6 week waiting list for weekend evenings. And finally, my apologies for this slight detour from the theme of this thread. Let me redeem myself by saying this is further evidence that it's no longer grim up North...

As you'll note from the report above, Jon, I wasn't overly impressed by Fischer's at Baslow Hall - but to be fair to them, although vogueish at the moment, the amuse was probably the best of the pumpkin offerings I've tasted this year. (edit:) Actually, scrub that: I tasted a similar dish (as a starter) with a ravioli of foie gras recently that was better - at Winteringham Fields. But save for that, F@BH was the best I've had of late.

I’ll preface this report by saying that I looked forward to this first visit to Baslow Hall. First, because I’m keen for the North to have its fair share of destination restaurants, and second, because I’m ever-hopeful that we can trust the guides in our pursuit of quality dining. Both these rationales led me to Fischer’s at Baslow, but I’m afraid that our experience was mixed. I’m hoping that someone can re-assure me that this place is worth a second visit... We visited last week, and opted for their ALC option and stayed overnight. For this we expected fireworks, but we were under-whelmed… It all started very well: the amuse bouche were served on slate in the (slightly cramped) lounge and were very good. The dining room was also smaller than I expected and, in truth, the décor was a little tired (especially the threadbare carpet by the door, and our table). Nevertheless, the meal began well with a bold-tasting butternut squash soup with truffle oil. My starter was a saddle of rabbit with rosti, crayfish and a crayfish reduction - this was fine. My partner decided on the caremelised pork belly, John Dory and Peanut brittle – she wasn’t much-impressed but from what I tasted of it, I though it worked well. The mains, however, were disappointing. I had a Taste of veal, sweatbreads, and some vegetable component that I can’t recall, all in a sweet and sour sauce. The plate arrived as a sizeable heap of meat: no complaints about portion size, and the veal was good. Yet otherwise, the elements were not readily distinguished for they were swamped by the sauce which was, I thought, too thin and too plentiful. Indeed, I can’t recall what the vegetables were in part because I couldn’t taste them given this overpowering sauce. My partner had a good piece of Sea Bass that was cooked very well, although she was bemused by the combination with cep mushrooms and a further element I forget and wasn’t convinced by this alliance. Likewise, this dish lacked the extra something that she anticipated from this restaurant. A pre-desert of three types of mango was pleasant enough, and a Plum and Armagnac soufflé was fine for my dessert. She had a Warm chocolate pudding with pumpkin centre and ice-cream: again, she was under-whelmed. By contrast, the teas and coffees were good and the petits fours were impressive – amongst the most inventive I’ve seen of late. So, a fine start and a flourish to finish, but otherwise, although solid overall, this meal never threatened the heights that we anticipated. At £65 a head for their ALC offering, this was a tad disappointing. As we drove off to work next morning, two issues puzzled us. First, we didn't have a problem with the prices, but equally, we didn’t feel that we’d had brilliant value. We weren’t wowed by the meal, yet this was compounded by the rooms and additional services. Our double room was OK, although the TV-options were poor and a strong smell of wood-smoke from the hall below pervaded the bathroom. However, at £150 for the entry-level double, I’d expect a cooked breakfast. Unfortunately, that’s 10 quid extra at Fischer’s. And in truth, the continental spread that was offered in lieu was not inspiring. Neither was a morning paper included. And while a 70p Guardian isn’t a huge deal for us, this kind of penny pinching doesn’t really endear one to the place. Further, our waiter knocked over a glass of wine at dinner. He cleaned up and apologised, but it wasn’t replaced. Therefore, we expected to see some complementary drinks for a token reduction on the bill while checking out, but nothing was offered. Given all this, we probably wouldn’t return… except for the niggling fact that the place has a good reputation. The GFG rates it 7/10, and the AA upgraded it to four rosettes last year. All of this convinced us to make the trip, yet these ratings don’t tally with our experience. So here’s the second issue… We imagine we must have caught them on an off night: this place has the reputation, the prices and the menus, but simply failed to deliver for us on this occasion. So, did we miss something here? Can anyone reassure me?

I've dined alone all over Italy and I've never been turned away from anywhere... apart from Roman restaurants on weekend evenings. It didn't happen to me too often, but it does smart when you are turned away from a place with empty tables. A creeping anxiety about this eventually prompted special strategies such as turning up very early or pretty late to ask for a table...

Thanks very much for the information and the kind offer of help, when needed, Christopher - much appreciated. I'll let you know when I'm heading to Norway again.

The lunch options yesterday were the set lunch, ALC and their 'specials'; the full tasting menu was only available in the evening. I think you're right about the ratings dilemma, Gary, hence my final point about whether the inspectors will upgrade, and how long this might take. But given this impasse, I was also very impressed that WF are sticking with their model of top-quality food, high-level service, and high prices (rather than downgrading). And all this despite their isolation from any sizeable, immediate market for business lunches etc. I must have forgotten about the maps (ironically, as I'm a professional geographer - another reason why I like them). I do recall my partner seizing the wine list on the last visit - with dire consequences for the bill!

Serendipitously, schedules coincided to allow a long-planned lunch at Winteringham Fields yesterday. The last time we visited was in early January, with the 2 stars and five rosettes still in place. It has since lost one of each so I was interested to see if any differences were noticeable in this renowned place south of the Humber. Over the pre-lunch drink I found the new GFG 2007 in their lounge. This still rates the cooking at 9/10 (joint top in the UK), and I could see no discernable decline. Indeed, I thought yesterday’s meal improved on the last. The welcome was as friendly as ever and the scattering of lunchtime diners of an October weekday made for a very pleasant, peaceful environment. We enjoyed drinks and an amuse-bouche of tomato gazpacho in an empty conservatory before being led to our table. A pre-appetiser of roast squab, carrot and potato appeared and worked very nicely. Two of the party ordered a main appetiser of butternut squash and chestnut cream soup with a foie gras ravioli. The soup was just rich and creamy enough with gorgeous flavours, while the ravioli was a particular treat. Meanwhile, I had a highly tender and tasty carpaccio of pork belly speckled by squid rings (some fried) and resting upon a mushroom polenta. Despite some scepticism about the squid when ordering, this was highly impressive dish that reminded me forcefully what a serious restaurant this is. The range of excellent breads (c. 7/8 choices, and four butters) and the attentive staff (outnumbering the guests, it seemed) also combined to act as a timely aide-memoire. Two of my party ordered the Osso Bucco of dark, rich pork with pureed potatoes, carrot and beetroot salad for mains. They were both very pleased with it. I had a shoulder of lamb with pommes boulangères and a fetuccine of vegetables (mainly carrots and greens). The lamb was cooked perfectly and was well-complemented – although in truth, the potato and veg didn’t quite offer the extra wow factor of my appetiser. Both dishes were complemented nicely by a Chilean Pinot Noir selected from what I think is a revamped list. I’m sure some traditionalists would scoff, but I liked the neat inclusion of maps and other materials about wine-producing regions in the folder (which I think is a new departure at WF?). Regardless, to my mind this makes for a more interesting read and allows a better informed and more inclusive discussion of choices amongst any group of diners. The last time we visited it was the dessert that lacked the same punch as the rest of the menu - but yesterday that had improved. I enjoyed a hugely succulent lemon bread and butter pudding with vanilla ice-cream; my partner tried the chocolate fondant with mousse that offered a texture that was, she repeated, perfect. Both were excellent and we retired, stuffed and very satisfied, to one of the cosy small lounges for coffee and first-rate petits fours. This is our local place for haute-cuisine, but as we drove back to work I realised that over the year -and in the light of its fluctuating ratings- I’d started to forget just what a serious endeavour this place is, albeit one (from our direction) in an incongruous location at the end of a narrow, muddy country road. For me though, this isolated spot and the apparently wilful decision not to chase a larger urban market and its ready money just adds to the allure. We’re planning another return, but much more promptly than the last. I’ll be interested to see if the inspectors have revised their opinions as well.

I spent three days in and around Narvik in the Arctic North in August. The scenery, driving and walking were all stunning, however the restaurant choices were not inspiring. We survived on standard pizzas and pastas at generic chain restaurants etc, but the local food and dishes seemed to be scarce on the ground. We'd like to return, but is there a useful and fair guide to restaurants and eating places in the country? Our general travel guide simply explained that Narvik was a culinary desert - which didnt really help!

I spend a week working in Central and Southern Italy each March. The weather is usually fine: warm and sunny at best, but it can also be cold, blustery and rainy on occasion. Yet the Po valley can be colder and damper still, so I'd be tempted to head South in spring for the nature and the weather... Palermo is easily worth three days. That said, if you do choose the North, Venezia is a must for a minimum of two days, I'd say, and preferably three or four. The city is pretty quiet in March and sleepier districts are always accessible if you walk beyond the tourist trail. Watch for the way the early-morning light bounces off the canals. The restaurants are always open. Other cities within easy reach of Venice (like Verona, Vicenza and Padova) are also worth a day.

I’ve just come cross this thread and have been quite shocked by the vitriol poured upon Juniper and Paul Kitching by some of our steak-loving cousins from the US. I’ll therefore report my visit to Juniper for a tasting menu two months ago to balance the score a little more... We were only planning a lunch en-rote to a function, but when we saw an eight course taster menu (at an extremely reasonable 45 quid) we plumped for this option. For this we had a genuinely good meal, but a great restaurant experience. Let me explain: I thought the food compared very favourably with one-star standard and pushed two-star levels in places, however, what was uniquely special was the brio and verve of this menu. We had no idea what was coming, but from the playfully-florrid descriptions that accompanied their arrival through to the mixtures of textures, tastes and flavours we encountered, we simply enjoyed these dishes enormously. This performative aspect to Juniper has been mentioned before on here and in the press, but the menu really did seem to acquire its own exciting momentum as each dish brought new surprises which were always stimulating, often extremely good, occasionally OK, but also, and at best, riotous fun. For those looking for classical but slightly innovative cuisine executed within established culinary contours perhaps this isn’t the place; but I you're happy to try something different and playful, then this will be worth your time. I can't recall the exact detail of our dishes (not least because the descriptions arrived with the dishes), but I do remember an excellent turbot concoction (although this didn't have the lemon tart, as mentioned above). We enjoyed a combination of beef and lamb greatly; and I also remember the scallop and Welsh rarebit dish as being particularly good. The deserts, though, were especially memorable. The first was based upon the flavour of chocolate buttons and was enormously entertaining (this dish is a particular favourite of the serving staff, we learnt). The bucks fizz sorbet was also a blast, while the lemon tart (here rather than with beef or fish), was very good. The petits fours were also impresssive and throughout, the service was very warm, friendly and attentive. Looking back three things strike me: - First, the place was empty that Saturday lunchtime –one other couple– so it’s difficult to know what the atmosphere might be like when it's full. - Second, despite eight courses, we didn't encounter any of the more outlandish presentation and combinations that are mentioned elsewhere on this site. Again, was this due to a slow lunchtime? Or, is Kitching heeding the criticism that he is sometimes just too wacky, and reigning in his wilder side to focus more on the quality? I'd be interested to hear of anyone else's experiences this summer. - Third, how would Juniper fare in London? Would it be rumbled (as its detractors would argue) or feted (as many food-critics seem to suggest)? I'd tend towards the latter, but for selfish reasons, I really hope he stay put - as we're still smiling about this place two months on.

Sorry I'm too late to help this time, but for those looking for accommodation in Italy, the following site is always informative: www.enit.it This is the official Italian tourism site and all listed hotels should be on here, with phone numbers and websites (if available). It also includes the prices the Hotels have promised the state they will charge (and that are also found on the back of hotel doors) - this can be useful while navigating the hotel finders on the web.

Piperno (Monte dè Cenci 9) is very good - but you'd need to book. The rooms are classic, characteristic Roman interiors - but more spacious than many. The food is very good and good value too. If you're not too adventurous you might have to beware some of their more authentic, Roman dishes - as local kitchens used to use every part of an animal. I once floundered with a plate of deep fried sheep's brain - it was excellent of its type, I was told, but I couldn't raise the enthusiasm to finish it, I'm afraid. Also very popular with Romans is Giggetto al Portico d'Ottavia (on Via del Portico d'Ottavia 21). This place enjoys a stunning location right next to the Gate of Octavius - if you can get one of the few outdoor tables. It offers Roman-Jewish cuisine and Roman staples - with offal featuring prominently. I can't say I've ever been overwhelmed by the food on my three visits, however, it is undoubtedly a notch above many places in town and it wouldn't be so consistently popular with the locals if it didn't deliver. It also offers an excellent atmosphere: full of Romans eating and chatting in a series of internal rooms. If you can't get into these places, the restaurant next door to Giggetto is not as sought-after, but it provides solid, mainstream fare; the pasta's were fine and the pizzas quite agreeable, there's also some Jewish features on the menu. It has a pleasant courtyard to the rear - a nice place for a shady lunch if needed. Two bakeries further North on Via del Portico d'Ottavia sell traditional Roman-Jewish cakes and pastries, and are often busy. Some argue that the Jewish community of Rome are the oldest in Europe; they arrived in Biblical times and are still evident - despite being subject to Ghetto legislation from the Papacy until 1870, and the Nazis in 1943-44. The Via del Portico d'Ottavia is the historic centre of the community and, until relatively recently, remained a poor, ramshackle area (that was picturesque to other eyes). Although it isn't light reading, Alexander Stille's (1992) Benevolence and Betrayal (Cape / Vintage) includes a chapter on the Rome Ghetto in the Second World War that is amongst the best I've read on the topic - if only for the vivid history he tells, and the humanity of his approach. The centre of his story are the community of the Via del Portico d'Ottavia, which, once read, makes the street still more evocative. I always tell visitors they must try Roman-Jewish cuisine, but don't neglect the rest of the city either - Testaccio and the residential suburbs beyond the medieval core offer excellent Italian food at fine prices.

Many thanks Corinna and Catriona, This is very interesting reading and your efforts are much appreciated by me and, I'm sure, other readers too.

Catriona is right - I should have distinguished between the lunch menu and the dinner menu with its hefty prices. If I'd had the fish dish I mentioned, and paid €40+ for the priviledge, I'd have been on here grumbling politely about the value. We enjoyed our lunch greatly, but had we paid double for similar cooking in the evening, this might have coloured our memories. I also share your surprise that Bang Cafe is listed as Bib Gourmand. Apologies if this tramples all over a thread elsewhere, but can I ask Catriona and Corrina (and any others who know the city), in order: - What are the three best places for dinner? - What are the three best places for lunch? Many thanks in anticipation

I'm clearing out old emails and and I've just found the tasting menu that Olga kindly forwarded to me after an outstanding meal earlier this year: - Celeriac Veloute toasted Oat - Marinated Mackerel - Ham Hock Ravioli, Pomelo - White Onion Risotto, Parmesan Air and Espresso - Scallop Ravioli, Pig's Cheek - Poached Quail, Croissant Veloute - John Dory, Chicken Skin, Cocks Crest - Roast Squab, Foie Gras Candy, Caramelized Apple - Anis and Egg Custard Tart - Coconut Parfait, Liquorice We also opted for a cheese course in addition. There's little I can add to the extensive evidence on this thread about the quality of this place but, for the record, we particularly liked the outstanding makerel; the meaty Ham ravioli; and the stunning Onion Risotto with coffee and cheese - it shouldn't work, but it did... sublimely. The bar was very high by now and perhaps this is why I wasn't as taken by two of the combinations that followed. The John Dory was very good, but overpowered, I thought, by the chicken skin, whereas the cock's crest didn't seem to contribute. The Foie Gras and apple worked well together, but the squab was just a little too rare for me. It is daring, clever cooking though, and was clearly supposed to appear this way, so perhaps it was just not to my taste. The deserts were highly impressive and had us entertained and interested. We were very pleased with the cheese course - a directed voyage of seven tastes, from left-to-right across the plate. The custart tart and coconut parfait were also great fun. The service was excellent throughout and the front of house were impressive. But again, what can I add to the plaudits that are already stacked at their door? A huge boon for those of us who live in the North.

Three friends and I lunched at Patrick Guilbaud a couple of weeks ago and were very happy indeed with the whole experience. We'd kept the evening free for the Theatre, but had heard about the excellent lunch and so we pitched up in the comfortable (but peculiarly dim) lounge at 1pm sharp. From the start, the service was exceptional with every guest we saw treated to the same, excellent standards. The maître d' was especially good: he had clear 'ownership' of the room, but was nevertheless still happy to help with all kinds of things: my partner has mobility issues at the moment, but when he saw her setting off to find a restroom, he escorted her personally down a lift and around a hidden corridor to avoid the stairs... this was beyond the call and deserves reporting. Perhaps the darkened bar was supposed to contrast with the stark, light, brilliantly-white modernist dining room? Certainly, all was bright and light at our spacious table next to the doors to the garden. Despite the equally pared-down, minimalist descriptions on the menus outside the door (eg. 'Chicken and mushrooms'), once within, the lunch menu offered sufficient choices to keep us all happy. The amouse bouche were solid: nice and tart, and the breads were very good - one including bacon slivers had a meat, salty flavour that bounced around the mouth in a very satisfying manner. My first course was roast squab with a layer of cabbage just beneath the skin, and accompanied by artichokes, potatoes and a sauce I forget. I suspect this is one of their signatures, as I've heard of it elsewhere (and it's reviewed above). As elsewhere, I can report that the combination was genuinley thrilling and it was clear this was a serious cooking at work. One of our group had the soup and was highly complementary about the taste and texture. My partner followed with chicken, mushroom and chicken. I fell foul (fowl?) of both of my restaurant rules here: 1) try something you don't like in the confidance that a fine kitchen will make it taste great; or 2) don't have anything that sounds just too simple. So I avoided the chicken and mushroom - which was hugely tasty, reminding one why this age-old combination emerged. Rather, I had a kebab of salmon and halibut (?), with beans in an orange sauce. I'm no fan of most beans and despite a delicate yet tangy sauce, they were still, well... beans. The fish was cooked just right, of course, but I'm not quite sure it worked with the orange and beans. Three of us had this; we were all intrigued and interested, but it didn't quite work for two of us. Finally, deserts ranged from an admirable, robust wild berries combination for two of us, through to a highly compelling chocolate combination for me (rule 1 at work here: I seldom choose chocolate, but PG delivered in spades here). One of our group finished with some outstanding Irish cheeses - as you'd expect from a two-star place. In sum, the food was very good indeed, the service was faultless, and the ambience was excellent - this was a stylish, buzzing space, and one that was noticeably full of people who were visibly enjoying their food. Indeed, we'd had such a good time that we almost forgot to try the exceptional petits fours. I'm not sure quite why some other reviewers are disappointed; our lunch filled and satisfied in equal measure. For sure, it may not be as innovative as some places (and Thornton's apprarently fills this niche in Dublin), but this is top notch cooking and, while I'd try Thorton's next time, I'd also make sure to return here without a second's hesitation. With crazily-cheap flights from the UK (save for their dire environmental costs) a decadent day trip to have a very enjoyable lunch is feasible, the awful airport-road traffic allowing... As a footnote: without any research we also happened across 'Bang Cafe' (Bib Gourmand) for dinner on our other evening. This was a lively, modern place - and much bigger than it at first appears. The food was a solid, although a little hit and miss... and we paid plenty for it. However, the Tiger economy and its lucky beneficiaries were clearly on show here. I'd not visited Dublin for three years, and even in that time, the changes are marked (the population has doubled, for example, since 1996...but enough of the geography lesson!)

I've just come across this story of Sunday lunch at the Longridge restaurant - we did this same deal a month ago and I feel obliged to tell anyone in the area to get down there to sample this great value offering... One marker of Paul Heathcote's status as an institution around those parts is that the local bus-stop is named after him. I was particularly taken by this (to my partner's bemusement - perhaps it's a boys' thing?) - she dragged me away into this very neat and tidy place in a row of cottages: it feels pretty intimate, friendly and cosy, and the service continued this theme. As the small bar was full, we went straight to our table and encountered the menu. As legend tells it, Heathcote is a longstanding champion of Lancastrian cuisine and while not as evident at Sunday lunch as on his evening menus, I still tested this reputation by ordering the salad of black pudding, baby gem, egg, and mustard-grissini. I knew this was a relatively cheap, one-starred place and I knew it had lost stars in the past, so I wasn't really expecting anything too extraordinary - but the Black pudding was perhaps the best I've ever had. The meaty, fleshy texture combined beautifully with the soft-poached egg. I'd have happily had it twice. My partner chose a soup that was packed with flavour and boasting a rich, smooth texture she was very pleased with. We never have Sunday lunch so, flushed by the novelty of the occasion, and curious to see what arrived, we'd ordered the pork and beef dishes for mains. The meats were cooked perfectly, as were the potatoes and veg that accompanied them (although the Yorkshire pudding was a little too dry, I thought). A rich, hearty Puglian Salice Salentino (I think), reasonably priced by the glass, provided robust company for the beef. Ours weren't adventurous choices and I think we ended up with the solid dishes that serve the more traditional tastes of some of the clientele. That said, it was very tasty and filling and the portions were very generous for this level of restaurant. Even my Dad couldn't complain about "poncey food and small portions" here! Deserts were a small blackberry and apple crumble for my partner: by contrast with the mains, this was a small dish. A serving mistake, we noted, when the next table got an appreciably bigger portion. I didn't care too much as I was transported by my Bread and butter pudding with apricots and cream. This was a sticky, tasty sublime treat - with the apricots especially bouncing off the flavours of the pudding. The coffee was also surprisingly good. I had a feeling this was going to be a bargain from my recollection of the guides, but when the menu came I realised just what a steal it is: two courses for £16.50 and deserts for £3.50. It felt a bit odd dining at Michelin-rated place but paying street-corner prices - not taking a hit in the pocket seemed to detract from the usual experience. By contrast with more consciously upscale places perhaps the service was a little slow at times (although they were packed full of punters); conversely, the maitre 'd / manager was very friendly, very chatty, and seemed to know everyone dining there. We'd return, no question. With very good food at standard pub prices, this must be hard to beat?

Hi Dan, Thanks for the kind words. I'd hoped to respond to your earlier request in time for your trip, but I missed the date due to various work commitments: sorry! Hence, I started a new thread just for Helsinki. I'm glad you enjoyed Finland - we were very impressed, particularly by its civilised lifestyle and the civility of the locals. You're right that food in the provinces is more of a lottery than in Helsinki, but a little research should help to locate reasonable places. And then Helsinki offers a few special treats...

I've just found this thread on Northcote Manor and thought I'd stick my oar in... My partner and I stayed and dined there in late March this year - around the same time as Bapi and our experience was not dissimilar. I'd planned this visit as a special treat: I was brought up in East Lancashire and was especially keen to see how the local fare might be reinvigorated in the hands of a classy chef. I really wanted this to go well and overall we were pleased with the visit and enjoyed the food greatly; the room we had was also very pleasant. However, my view resonates with Bapi's and, unfortunately, I'm not sure we'd return. We had booked the Gourmet Break (dinner, bed and breakfast) for 130 GBP each. My partner was newly pregnant and we had to tell Northcote this at a few days notice, but they were very good about substituting any dishes; they also identified us in the lounge straight away and checked the menu through with us as the champagne and canapes arrived. So far, so excellent. We ordered happily, but with given the new pregnancy I was drinking alone. I was also just back from 10 pricey days in the US, so cash was tight and I asked the maître d' about the lowest end of his wine-lists. Unfortunately, he couldn't hide what seemed to be a grimace - and although I agreed 45 GBP for two half bottles, this left us wondering if Northcote was less seriously foody, and more seriously snooty, than we'd realised. In turn, we were under-whelmed by our table. The dining room was busy yet pretty spacious. Nevertheless, another young couple were seated at small, parallel bistro table no more than a foot from ours. I don't think this was policy, as two metres to our left, an elderly couple enjoyed a table for c. six to themselves. We weren't intriguing in some bijou Parisien place; we wanted space and privacy to discuss and enjoy our meal. Essentially, we were sharing with two other young'uns who looked equally mystified by the arrangements. That said, once the food arrived my grumbles dissolved. I can't recall all the dishes, but my partner was very excited about her Heather-fed lamb. She eats lamb whenever she can, but this she ranked as amongst the very best. I also thought the forrager's soup was sublime - taste and texture just right (next morning we also saw the forrager at work in the field outside... ). I also recall the White beef being extraordinarily delicate and tasty, and the marrowbone accompaniment was superb (if not for the squeamish). The Pork Belly dish was also fantastic, with crisp coating hiding the succulent pork within that melted on the tongue. I was waiting for their signature Lancashire cheese ice-cream and it didn't disappoint. The taste was so precise that it actually triggered childhood memories of the rich, tangy, creamy cheese from market stalls and butchers' shops, and it complemented the apple flavours elsewhere on the dish perfectly. I was enthralled by this; conversely, one of my partner's highlights is always the cheese dish - and this was pretty disappointing. The cheese itself was fine, but the two thin slices were lonely and the presentation was desultory. I'm sure there was a theory or method about taste in there somewhere, but it wasn't clear to us and left us with a major low-note. The coffee was good. So, given all this it might appear difficult to pinpoint where we fell out of love. The food was impressive overall, with excellent technical skills and that famed commitment to Northern produce that I was chasing. But at the same time, if it is to wow across the board, Northcote also needs to sharpen up its service around the edges. The wine service was erratic, but I can forgive this. (Virtually) sharing tables with another couple was an odd policy, but I could accommodate this at a stretch. The maître d' irked us a little more. Worse, our newspaper wasn't ordered for the morning and after three requests we were given a few assorted, discarded supplements. So by now I was less charitable, and remembered the confusion of booking: I'd taken the internet option from their site, but after a week of silence I booked on the phone instead, only to later find I had two rooms reserved... and I had to call again to sort all this out. Oh, and someone had scraped my car as they left the car park (of course, this isn't Northcote's fault, but it didn't help my bewildered mood)! Perhaps Northcote suffered from my own high hopes for a seamless night at a temple of Northern gastronomy? In truth, on leaving, I took a leaflet about an excellent lunchtime menu offer that made me want to return immediately... but since then we've paid similar prices in peer restaurants where, overall, those little things that cement the pleasure of the occasion have been better. Indeed, subsequently, and in the North-West alone, we've visited other places rather than try Northcote again. Just a few minutes away, Heathcote's Longridge Restaurant doesn't hit the same foodie heights or service levels, but is cheaper. We were also more impressed by the tasting menu at Juniper and we'd return to both those places (for different reasons) before Northcote. But I'm new to this forum, so perhaps I'd better find any Juniper thread and write up our July pilgrimage to Altrincham and the August drive to Longridge...

I've looked through the threads on here and discussion of Helsinki is usually lumped in with St. Petersburg, Talinn etc. I think the city deserves a dedicated thread (as others enjoy), so I hope no-one minds if I start it off with an account of some places we visited this summer. We were there in high summer so the local berries, white radishes, chanterelle mushrooms and peas covered the market stalls alonside the much-prized cloudberries. This was all very encouraging! In Helsinki, the open, fish market by the sea at the Eastern end of Esplanadi had good fare on sale amidst the tourist stalls aimed at the cruise-ship day-trippers. But the restaurant staff all recommend the Hakaniemi market to the North-East of the centre for the best food. We didn't visit, regrettably, but if the much smaller Oulu covered market (in the North of Finland) was any thing to go by, the Hakaniemi must be excellent. In Oulu the markt was very impressive - much splendid fish (especially brilliantly fresh and well presented salmon), meats and other produce on sale to queue's of enthusiastic local purchasers. In terms of Helsinki restaurants, we sought out the best we could find. The famed Chez Dominique was close for refurbishment (giving us an excuse to visit his excellent summer city again); likewise, one-star Restaurant George was on holiday for the month. However, we went to the remaining Michelin-starred place: G. W. Sundman's. This was a very solid one-star place and the food was impressive and technically pretty much flawless (on our visit). It was classical cuisine but, as you'd hope, boasted a strong Finnish inflection - with local, seasonal poduce integral to the menu (rather than a mere gesture to the inspectors). The composition of the dishes was particularly notable given the limited range of fresh, local vegetables available at these latitudes. My reindeer with mushroom-herb coating was excellent and cooked to perfection, as was the scallops appetiser. My partner was very pleased with her cheese course while my trio of desserts came as a surprise: rather than three small tasting portions, three full desserts appeared in series. My partner's wild strawberry dish was exceptional. We were thoroughly enjoying ourselves by then! Breads and other periperals were of the standard required. Elsewhere, the crayfish dishes seemed to be something of a speciality (and a local tradition) from what we saw of a couple of surrounding tables. The place also offers some set menus that will save you some money if you go for them. The service was formal and efficient but friendly, and the setting made for a fine sense of occassion - being upstairs in an old mansion overlooking the harbour (ask for a table next to a window). As I recall we paid circa €220 for two with aperitifs, (lower end) wine, three courses from the carte and coffee. We also got in (on a Wednesday) with three hour's notice, so don't be afraid to try on spec. The mark-ups on the winelist were fierce though, as with all Finnish restaurants. You might need to brace youself if you see a favourite bottle and can't resist! Other fine places in our guidebooks included: Nokka: this too had a spendid setting in a converted warehouse overlooking another harbour. The Northwards prospect also allowed diners to watch the Arctic evening fade slowly in the distance. The other prospect was of the surprisingly relaxed but nevertheless efficient kitchen - visible through a huge glass divider. The food here was also good - not Michelin star, but two+ AA rosettes (UK ratings). It is modern, clever international style but also offers a serious engagement with Finnish ingedients. I can't recall our dishes exactly, but a particularly nice touch was honey that arrived as honeycomb - break off what you need. It was pricey, but an excellent evening out. Bellevue: this was founded by Russians fleeing the 1917 revolution, apparently, and the evocative decor plays on a nostalgia for a pre-communist time. We had a huge booth for just the two of us and enjoyed the occassion for the sheer difference of the setting. Bear is on the menu here, but it's pricey (bear-farming being a dangerous business, I imagine...). Instead, we had good soups and huge (if slightly greasy) Blini's. We both enjoyed the enormous Chicken Kiev and the Baked Alaska to conclude. Strong, black Russian tea and biscuits (with rich, fruity jam) made for a great finish. This wasn't classical haute cuisine, but it was tasty, filling and entertaining. Again, it cost plenty but was worth it - indeed, we'd probably return to his lesser but more distinctive place than the better, but more internationalised and homogenous, Nokka (above). Lappi: this is the place in Helsinki for Arctic cuisine, we learnt. We were to discover later on in our holidays that the Arctic North wasn't really the place to visit for fine dining, so this place was probably a reasonable bet for the Reindeer, Arctic Char and the like. Yet, the log-cabin interior was a little too kitsch for my liking and the log-bench wasn't the most comfortable seat I've ever paid for. The staff (in traditional costume) were fine on the whole, but a little inattentive at the end of the evening. In terms of the food, the elk steak I ordered was cooked very well, with tasty and piquant berries to complement it. My partner enjoyed her whitefish too. However, overall the composition and blend of ingredients wasn't quite what we'd expect for the hefty bill. You pay for the setting and the reputation here; we wouldn't return, though. We'd go back to Sundman's or Nokka for Reindeer etc - more cash for sure, but a much better experience. Saslik: we didn't visit, but it seemed very popular and was always busy. We tried a couple of other, quick places when we weren't dining seriously for the evening. The standard was high and the prices (by contrast with the UK) not too bad at all. We were impressed by our exposure to Finnish cuisine: by the technical standards and the imaginative way it addresses a limited range of seasonal produce. If we were to relocate, I'd imagine getting more tired of the range of tastes on offer from traditional fare, but for a week we were delighted with our culinary adventure. When Silvio Berlusconi dismissed Finnish cuisine as dreadful, we should take this as yet another example of his (allegedly) demonstrable buffoonery!

Further to Gethin's excellent post... This information is based on life in Ceredigion in the mid-late 1990s (so don't take it as Gospel)... But there was also a good foodie shop in Aberaeron that specialised in the local produce - from cheese, through Ty Nant, to the local white wine. Worth a visit if it's still there... I'd definitely have a look at Conti's in Lampeter for a taste of a 1950s Italian-Welsh ice-cream parlour, and try their Vanilla flavour (the one and only on offer, as Old Mr. Conti wouldn't countenance different flavours). I'd be more wary about eating there though, based on past experience! Fecci's ice-cream parlour in Tenby is similarly evocative; you'll also find relatively good pub-food in Tenby, as well as beautiful beaches and a charming little old fishing town.