Kropotkin

"All fur coat and nae knickers", in her humble opinion!

It’s been a while since I visited Leith and I was struck by the newly gentrified waterfront with its multiplying bars and restaurants. Chief among these is restaurant Martin Wishart. The locals hold it in very high regard and speak warmly of the place; we were looking forward to it. The new tram system that is being embedded into Edinburgh’s streets means the haul down the hill from the centre takes longer than usual, but it’s very much worth the journey - this is highly accomplished food with smooth service from the many staff scurrying around; there’s a decent buzz in the room too. We both opted for the tasting menu which was:  Canapés (with special mention to the Haggis bonbon and a ‘crisply risotto, tomato fondue’ - essentially rice crispies in a tomato sauce – great fun)  Chilled sweet corn soup, basil sorbet, crispy veal sweetbreads, salted almonds  Pressé of foie gras and smoked pheasant, rhubarb curd [a happy combination, plus one substitute of a good parmesan soufflé from the very laudable vegetarian tasting menu]  Sautéed baby squid, vivaldi new potatoes, truffle, malt and pumpernickel sand and asparagus - [an interesting assemblage of textures and flavours]  Cerviche of halibut - [with passion fruit and mango, a bold and excellent dish]  Braised shin of Ross-shire Beef, mushroom ravioli, pumpkin puree - [a beautiful, melting piece of beef]  Apple and calvados soufflé, apply sauce and lollipops - [a jaunty take on toffee apples] This was very refined, precise, classy cooking with a whole range of tastes and textures. For me the stand-out courses were the halibut cerviche which tasted stunning, and the beef, which was one of the best mouthfuls in ages… but here’s the (pretty minor) rub: this was a very small disc of beef, no more than a mouthful. Elsewhere I enjoyed just three tiny pieces of baby squid, while the cerviche would struggle to equal a heaped table-spoonful. In fairness, the parmesan soufflé was sizeable, but a couple of dishes were so unusually Lilliputian (with subtle plating to disguise this) that, unless nibbled, they wouldn’t last more than a few seconds. My mother-in-law is from Glasgow and, as befits someone steeped in the old rivalry between these cities, she describes Edinburgh in a vaguely risqué phrase that approximates to ‘all style and no substance’. Wishart’s is certainly stylish, but a little more substance (nay, sustenance) wouldn’t go amiss at times. That sorted, though, and they’d offer pretty much the full package. This place is well worth your time.

At a loose end between meetings, I booked into The Square for lunch last week. I wasn’t grabbed by anything on their lunch menu, so turned to the carte. This being my first visit I couldn’t resist the much-hyped crab lasagne which did, I was pleased to note, tally with its reputation. An Assiette of pork, by contrast, was solid and competent, but not as interesting as I’d hope for at this level (ie. it was essentially a simple meat, potatoes and two veg dish that I could have cooked myself on a good day; my fault for ordering it, I guess, but I assume a kitchen of this calibre will turn out something a little more special and unique than I could manage)? All was redeemed by a Brillat-Savarin and orange cheesecake surrounded by rhubarb in various textures. I’m a sucker for anything rhubarby, but the intensity of flavours here was excellent and beyond all recent rhubarb dishes I've enjoyed. All else was fine and more or less exactly as I expected from this place except for one minor quibble: namely, the absence of any additional pre-appetiser, pre-dessert, or the like at this price-point. Save for a (good) amuse bouche, my £65 three-course lunch was just that - three courses. Unless this is standard practice at The Square, surely they could chuck in a freebie - if only to make us all feel a little more loved and appreciated?

WF reduced to two AA rosettes now - and I'm sure they had a five-rosette plate on display at reception last year: a steep and sad decline indeed. And with those high prices still in place, their business model looks ever more wobbly to me.

I couldn't make my mind up about the fish'n'cheese dish either - I think I wanted to like it more than I actually did! We were there two weeks ago for a very enjoyable dinner, and Gary's right - I think they have nudged their standards still higher over this last year.

I'd say it is is about a 40 minutes drive from Sorrento centre to Marina del Cantone - the local advice was to take the coast road around the Western tip of the peninsula (with views of Capri). Don Alfonso is about 10 minutes nearer, perched on the crest of the hills. As Maureen says, these are slow, winding roads - and, around Sorrento and to the East of the town, they are often grid-locked these days. Either way, this is a hefty taxi fare. I'd hire a car, go by boat or, best of all, book in for the night. One accomodation and some transport options (from a couple of years ago) reviewed (in a rather clichéd fashion) here; the restaurant also does rooms and is right on the beach.

The sommelier described this Chianti he was so enthusiastic about as well structured, which I took to mean it was well balanced (between the tannin, fruit etc). I'd thought a Chianti would be too heavy for some of the menu we had selected, but he assured us that this one would not overpower the lighter dishes - and he was right. Perhaps it wasn't your typical Chianti? However, I can't recall the name now - sorry!

I think they do have a star, although I'm not sure when it was bestowed - perhaps two years ago? I'd say my meal was at the lower end of the 1-star range, but I don't think I saw them at their best and from what you say, I'm not surprised that they're keeping their star. Edit: the viamichelin website confirms one star

Thanks for the thoughts Maureen – most interesting. I should have clarified that I was judging Il Pagliaccio against its growing reputation as one of the very best restaurants in the city, and against some comparable Michelin-starred places elsewhere: hence my steep expectations. And, although I was pleased with the evening, I suspected that I hadn’t seen the best of them - so I’m pleased to hear that I may have reason to return. I also forgot to add that, in my opinion, they provide reasonable value too. They sniffed out my mother-tongue when the wine-list arrived and all switched seamlessly into English in an instant: very impressive, if very frustrating!

Il Pagliaccio, Roma http://www.ristoranteilpagliaccio.it/ Il Pagliaccio nestles demurely in Via dei Banchi Vecchie - one of those few streets of the centro storico that are known to Romans in search of a decent meal, but that elude many of the tourists thronging nearby piazzas. It opened about four years ago and has been accruing favourable attention ever since. Yet I’m surprised to find that it hasn’t raised any discussion on this site - so here’s an account of a dinner in early March 2008 to start things off… As befits the name, the external appearance of this place masks a different interior. While this isn’t the luxurious accommodation of some higher end joints, once beyond the understated exterior you are surrounded by subtle, cool décor that offers a neat, minimalist take on Roman white walls and exposed beams. The larger of the two dining rooms (which stretches the length of the restaurant from front to back) is also warmer in tone and atmosphere. When the menus arrive it is immediately clear that Il Pagliaccio propounds an inventive style that wouldn’t suit traditionalists (although in stark contrast to their innovation in the kitchen, why the anachronism whereby only the menu presented to the male lists any prices?). The menu offers a carte plus a range of set menus (at four, five and six courses, if I recall correctly). The four-course, we learnt, gestured towards traditional Roman specialities. I’m often interested by new takes on traditional staples, and I guessed that this menu entailed pork, lamb and their associated innards - and so it transpired… The sommelier recommended an extremely well structured Chianti that he was (quite correctly) very proud of (€38). This was from a decent list (although one with more high-end prices than some comparable places) and it arrived along with an appetiser of a potato croquette on a parsley sauce topped with lemon foam - all of which cleansed the palate as well as these flavours promise. The first course was belly pork with pecorino, artichoke and field mushrooms. This was a little disappointing. Although good individually, I wasn’t convinced by the combination of these elements and the pork hadn’t reached the melting stage that can make this dish so memorable. It wasn’t bad, but not as good as I’d hoped. The pasta dish that followed offered something offally (I can't remember the specific name) alongside chanterelles, but was the weakest of the night as none of the elements contributed clear or complementary flavours. The meal perked up when a beautiful piece of lamb appeared with accompanying sweetbreads, a spinach and cheese ball, and artichoke and spinach purées. Again, the various elements on the plate didn’t all chime perfectly - but things were improving. A granita of campari garnished with an olive and a ball of olive-oil ice-cream proved a sublime and witty pre-dessert. It preceded a splendid, crunchy chocolate and clementine torte with a crown of pine-nuts and another nut I couldn’t place. The coffee and petit fours were also very good to leave us in much better spirits than I’d anticipated an hour or so earlier. Throughout service was efficient and friendly – especially from the very cheerful and welcoming maître d’. Overall, this was a fair dinner although, in truth, I expected a little more from this place. Perhaps the kitchen was hamstrung by trying to interpret Roman staples when their real interests lie in the innovative style that characterises the rest of their menus? Yet at €190 for two, shouldn't they provide quality across the board? If this place were any more pricey I probably wouldn’t return. As it stands, I may visit again but before doing so, I’ll be interested to hear what the Romans (and honorary Romans) on this board think of Il Pagliaccio…

There's also chatter about Paul Kitching, and what he represents to some, on the online Guardian today: click

Interesting: the Westmorland Gazette claims that Michelin were negative about Rogan’s plan to open in Henley and required his continued presence in Cartmel. I heard this same story from one of the staff at L’Enclume in late January. Of course, this may be disinformation or frustration on their part (especially as Michelin say they don't provide advice and guidance), but for the sake of mischief, let’s suppose that this is true... For then, if Michelin were to apply their oft-stated demand for consistency to themselves, they must have been busy of late dissuading Messrs Ducasse, Robuchon, Ramsay etc from further openings. Indeed, some trembling junior inspector may have been despatched to visit Gordo and demand that he starts closing his London venues one by one… …oh, hang on, isn’t that already happening? Does the tide turn here???

I hope Paul K stays up North somewhere. If he's after someone else putting up more of the money in the push for stars (and I don't blame him at all for this), then there are a couple of well-founded, established restaurants in the market for new chefs at the moment... Would he fancy a move to the wilds of Lincolnshire, or, perhaps, to working for the landowning class at Bolton Abbey? Or indeed, would they fancy his idiosyncratic food?

It is always tragic when somebody dies so young - condolences to all at L'enclume.

We were at L'enclume at the weekend. In truth, I wasn't really in the mood for the whole full-on L'enclume experience after a hectic day and a long drive, but once again I was won over by the insistent quality and precision of Rogan's cooking and by the impressive itinerary of tastes and textures offered by the Tour menu. Particular highlights were an excellent desert of sweet potato and chocolate, and a striking composition of tuna and apricot. The Foie course has also evolved nicely (to my mind) with a hot and cold portions resting on fig and sweetcorn sauces. For information: in lieu of alc, they now offer a three course set dinner (at £39) - although this, as with the other menus, has to be taken by the whole table. They are also planning to extend the conservatory to the rear of the dining room to provide more covers. For scurrilous speculation: FoH were guarded and, quite correctly, keeping to script on the topic - but they were very tight-lipped about l'enclume 2 in Henley and any schedule for the new opening. Indeed, they were keen to emphasise that Cartmel would remain Simon Rogan's primary base and the place where he will premier his new dishes, menus etc. There was also some disappointment from the clearly dedicated staff at the lack of further recognition from Michelin.

A friend from Campania tells me that this story is very under-reported in Italy; she says she's seen nothing in La repubblica, for example, which she reads daily. The British Guardian newspaper also talked recently of fears that the rubbish disposal crisis in the region may also see more toxins leached into the food chain... worrying times.

I agree the Pipe & Glass is ever-improving, Gary, but I likewise suspect it's too soon for them this year... I'm not sure they have the required consistency yet, and the desserts sometimes fall below the standards of the prior courses. That said, I've little idea how the emerging Michelin category of uber-pubs works - so perhaps they'll have all in place before too long? I'd be delighted for them if this was the case.

Please God not shouty and baldy! More seriously, I'm hoping this is all resolved well. I was circumspect upthread, but an xmas lunch in December (under Pierre Gay) was the first time I've left WF and not talked about a return visit. Any clues as to a new chef that you can give us Ginger chef?

Not Hugh F-W and his ethical chicken-shack???

It seems that few on here visit the Yorke Arms given the infrequency of posts about it; additionally, this might reflect the fact that it's a schlepp to reach from virtually anywhere? Regardless, after finding myself with four spare hours in North Leeds on Saturday and embarking upon a mercy-dash over hill and dale for a quick lunch, I can only echo what's been said upthread. That is: 1) It's a beautiful, but long drive to get there across the moors on the roof of England, and then along some of the green dales between them. 2) It's a striking, stone-built building nested at the head of Nidderdale (with tractors rumbling past the windows). 3) The dining areas are grander and more sophisticated than the pubby name suggests, yet this place is simultaneously easy-going and accessible. 4) The food is also impressive. I started with a game terrine with foie, cherry and ginger brown bread (I think?): this was excellent. This was followed by venison with black-pudding, delicate fried onion rings, spring onion, fondant potatoes, and chanterelles. Again, very good and very welcome on a sunny but chilly winter's day. Finally, treacle tart with vanilla pannacotta, vanilla cream and vanilla ice cream - gorgeous. A splendid pot of tea in the lounge afterward wrapped this up nicely. And all good value at £25 (with reasonable prices on the wine too). 5) The service was a little slow, but when you've come this far, who's in a hurry (aside from me, on this occasion)? 6) This is an under-rated place - and I'll be back. The only problem was that we were booked in for the Menu Surprise at Juniper just a few hours later... a schoolboy error tackling so much decent food in one day.

Ah, sorry - must be mistaken (unless it was a special treat for me on a cold night?)

Al Bicerin is, I was told, an institution - a tiny C18th coffee house to the North-West of the Duomo (on Via della Consolata) with decor that hasn't changed much since the late C19th. Apparently Cavour was a patron (amongst others), and this was a very evocative place. Especially welcome, on a freezing November evening, was their Bicerin hot chocolate (with coffee and a nip of brandy, I think?) which was so good (and warming) that I had another pronto! The grander, old bars of Torino, beneath their arcades, are also splendid spaces for a drink. I'll also second the Cinema museum: a fantastic space used very well, it is vastly entertaining. The huge Lingotto complex South of the Station (via bus - a long walk otherwise) is designed as a new entertainment hub: that is, a mall with the usual shops, cinemas, hotels etc, but, more interestingly, it is all contained within the shell of the 1920s Fiat factory with its roof-top test track and spiralling access ramps at either end. It may be worth a look if this is your kind of thing? In my humble opinion, Torino is a much under-rated city - enjoy your trip!

We lunched at Winteringham Fields at the weekend – a first visit since late October just before Robert Thompson left and Pierre Gay took over the kitchen. The new chef was cooking a Christmas menu that, save for a few alterations, was left to him by Thompson. It would be unfair to judge him too rigorously on this, therefore - and on this showing the food was well cooked, although not perhaps with the same precision as the previous regime offered. The FoH was also a little slacker than normal, although this was a busy service (and we were late!). However, the Winteringham experience had changed in other respects as the place has doubled in size with the opening of a large extension. Their website and PR have never been particularly prompt and while we had heard rumours of expansion, the scale of the changes only became clear when we were directed into a spacious new lounge that adjoins a rear terrace and a sizeable new dining room. This new light and airy space –with its liberty-styled, domed glass sky-light, cream walls and occasional murals upon a (slightly bewildering) Alice in Wonderland theme- contrasts markedly with the existing, cosy dining room. Further, it also boasts a large picture window onto the kitchens. On a chilly December day, the marble floor and a lack of softer furnishings did make the room colder than we’d prefer, while the lounge next door also needed better heating. There’s plenty of space, though, and watching the kitchen at work was entertaining. Yet this leaves a restaurant with two distinctive halves – the longer-established, intimate, sinuous dining room seating c. 30, and this new, spacious room for another 30. For all the talk of weddings, corporate events and the like, I’m hoping that this means onwards and upwards – and presumably the business model foresees them augmenting their loyal clientele with more visitors and a greater tranche of the local population (to whom the owner was seen appealing on regional TV recently). But if so, will they freeze their stiff prices (which are still creeping upwards) to get more locals in? And will they be able to maintain standards with more covers (or are they settling for a less-elite, more generalised 1-star future)? We shall wait and see with interest...

I'd second L'enclume if it was open, but I'll chuck Holbeck Ghyll into the mix after a very decent lunch there earlier this year. I was expecting solid, generic 1-star fare but was pleasantly surprised by the standard. It also offers excellent views (rain permitting) across Windermere to the Langdales and, although late summer when we visited, it was virtually empty so we also had the run of the lounges that would, I suspect, be very cosy in January...

Winteringham Fields is my local so I’ll be sorry to see Robert go, but many congratulations to him on his move – he’s a very talented chef whose excellent, refined cooking belies his years. I’m sure he’ll attain the wider recognition that he hopes for in Berkshire and he’ll deserve it too. Good luck to him. Good luck also to Pierre Gay, who is taking on the daunting challenge of following Schwab and Thompson at WF. A quick google suggests that he spent time at Le Grand Véfour (Paris) under Guy Martin. Appointing a chef steeped in the higher reaches of French classicism may prove a shrewd move by WF. They need a top chef to maintain standards, to keep regulars and visitors happy, and most of all, to justify their robust prices (particularly if Michelin withhold their star while the new chef proves himself). That said, this all assumes that he can deliver. We’ll wait and see. Robert’s move also raises a further point, however, that may be of interest to some. Despite the glories of Cliveden, Robert is moving to a smaller and arguably less prestigious restaurant that opens less frequently and (even assuming full tables) won’t allow him to feed more customers. Crucially though, it is near London with all the attendant media recognition that might help him to develop his profile further. Whatever the established reputation of WF, North Lincolnshire can’t compete with the weight of media attention that adheres to the South East. And here we find an ancient trend reasserting itself… Introducing their 2008 Food awards last week, The Observer quoted Heston Blumenthal as claiming that: “…all the really cutting-edge restaurants, the really interesting ones, are no longer to be found in London but spread out across the country.” Yet recent evidence demonstrates the enduring strength of London’s gravitational field. Hibiscus has just shifted from Ludlow to Mayfair, and Simon Rogan will soon relocate to a second L’enclume in Henley-on-Thames. With Robert Thompson also migrating South this winter, the regions will have lost three of their best chefs in little over six months. Of course, these are a few high-profile examples and the overall standard of cooking around the country has improved markedly in the last decade. But does this trend start to undermine the oft-stated notion that the ‘really interesting cuisine’ is increasingly to be found in the regions? Does it suggest that many top chefs still feel obliged to move to the South-East eventually to realise the success they deserve? Critically assess this assertion using appropriate illustrative materials (40 marks)!!