Lesley C

Chez Louis at the Jean Talon market.

I heard from two people who got them for Christmas. They asked me for advice but I didn't know what the say. Something like, if you want your money back, get in line. And boy is that line L O N G and full of A N G R Y people...

I wonder if their new place will honor the Les Chevres gift certificates that they sold before Christmas.

I hear they have started weighing the food.

I also heard from an accountant friend that Revenue Quebec has decided 2007 will be the year of the restaurant audit. And when they audit, they audit in incredible detail. I pity the restaurants that have to endure that kind of scrutiny, which makes a restaurant review look like peanuts in comparison.

I just read that Chartier story in La Presse and I gotta say, I think when he thanks Mr. Beausoleil and the chefs at the end of the story, he bit off more than he realized he was about to chew. I think there are many people out there who are not thanking this trio, but saying "show me the money." To blame Montrealers for being stingy diners is one thing, but to praise people who left major debts in their wake is quite another. Also, as to the location question, I would like to point out that Joe Beef is in the middle of no where, and just look at Brunoise. I lived around the corner from that locale for years when it struggled as the Bistro St-Andre and, to a lesser extent, Fandango. Now the place is packed. Let's not forget the restaurant business is just that, a business. The closing of Les Chevres looks like a case of bad business and the lack of a clear concept. Everytime I dined there they seemed to be trying out something new. To blame Montrealers for the closing of high end restaurants seems a bit rich to me. Chartier finishes off his article saying we can keep our poutine while our good chefs will be off opening excellent restaurants in other cities. My thought right now is that there are a lot of stiffed suppliers in the city that would prefer to see certain restaurateurs set up their mismanaged shops elsewhere.

Well, he should get points for trying. But it didn't really work at all did it? Might just rank up there as his worst ever. And to think not only did The Times pay him to write that review, they paid for the 11 meals it took him to reach that conclusion.

I drove past Les Chevres everytime I went out for dinner, and it usually looked pretty busy to me. Also, Les Chevres was located between TMR and Outremont, two of the most affluent burbs in the city. Of course it was far for tourists shacked up downtown, but you have to question why it wasn't attracting locals. The biggest complaint I heard concerning Les Chevres was about portion size. I never had that problem, but I wasn't too thrilled with their stingy wine pours.

Let us not forget that one of the most successful restaurants in Montreal was Chez Bardet, and that was in the middle of nowhere. So I'm not sure I buy the bad location argument. I'm just not sure the latest restaurant-going generation cares much for innovation, and innovation is an important facet of fine dining. Les Chevres was an innovative restaurant. Not El Bulli, granted, but certainly modern. What we're seeing now is the never ending rise of the bistro, where portions are large, the ambiance is all buzz, the fries are crisp and the grilled salmon is diet-friendly.

When I worked at a Michelin-starred restaurant in the southwest of France, at staff meal the "Bon Appetits" were flying. There would be close to 30 of us in the dining room, and every time a chef came in, young or old, he or she would belt out a "Bon Appetit!" or a "Bon Appetit monsieurs/dames!". You couldn't eat a bite without having to answer with a "merci!" Everyone there was French and they all said it. It wasn't an upper class crowd, but rather a bunch of terrific chefs who never ate a bite without saying "Bon Appetit." Even if there were only two of us at the table, someone would say "Bon Appetit" before breaking the brioche.

It's especially sad to see that the tables are still set. I always think it's a shame when restaurants close without giving a heads up first. I would have given people a last chance to try out the restaurant before it closed, or regulars the opportunity to say au revoir.

Yes, but now I'd say avoid those restaurants that once impressed. Le St-Amable is the only restaurant that received the dreaded no-star review from me in the eight years I've been reviewing for the Montreal Gazette. It was beyond awful, which is very sad considering that under previous ownership it was one of the best restos in the city. But that was 20 years ago... As for the other places on that favourites list of yours, I can say that none of them are worth visiting anymore -- save perhaps for the Troika, which still has excellent food but is usually empty. Les Halles was always good, and closed last summer when the owner, Mr. Landurie, decided to retire. My biggest regret as a Montrealer was never having dined at Cafe Martin, Ruby Foo's or Chez Bardet. But I was just a baby when those places were at their height. Of course, missing EXPO 67 was another regret for I hear bottles of Chateau Y'Quem were being sold for about $18 at the French pavillion. At least I got to the Olympics.

You know Jonathan, I don't find that too exciting. You know what is exciting. It was actually something like -25 here in sunny Montreal today. That's right, with a windshield factor making it something like -32. Godzilla cold. Now that is something to talk about. A once-in-a-lifetime dinner in California wine country with your lovely wife and best-chef-in-the-world Thomas Keller cooking for you…What's the big deal??? Have fun. And please post some pictures for us poor losers stuck here in Antarctica!

I've never been a fan of fruit bavarois. Instead, I suggest you make it vanilla and serve it with fresh fruit and strawberry coulis. Here's my recipe. Vanilla Bavarian With Berries, Kiwis and Strawberry Sauce Serves 6 to 8 It's best to read through this recipe before starting, as there are many steps involved. Although this Bavarian is served with a fruit coulis, warm chocolate sauce would be a good accompaniment as well. 1 3/4 cups whipping cream 2 packets (2 tablespoons/14 g) powdered gelatin 1/2 cup cold water 1 vanilla bean or 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 2 cups milk 1 cup granulated sugar 7 egg yolks 4 kiwis, peeled and cut into sections 1 pint basket strawberries 1 pint basket blackberries Prepare a 6-cup (1.5-litre) decorative metal mold by rubbing the inside with a paper towel very lightly oiled with a light flavorless oil. In a cold stainless-steel bowl with a electric mixer, beat the whipping cream until it holds soft peaks. Refrigerate. In a large bowl, sprinkle the gelatin on to the cold water, stir, and let soften for a few minutes. Split and scrape the vanilla bean and place the pod and seeds into a saucepan with the milk and half the sugar. Whisk to combine and bring the mixture to a boil. Whisk the egg yolks vigorously and gradually whisk in the remaining sugar. Beat until smooth and pale. Whisk one-third of the boiling milk into the yolk mixture. Off heat, pour the egg mixture back into the pot of milk and return to the burner on low heat. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the mixture is thickened and coats the back of a spoon (the mixture is now at about 83 degrees F /28 C on a candy thermometer). All the foam should disappear. Do not let the mixture come to a boil! Strain immediately into the bowl of softened gelatin and stir until the gelatin has dissolved. Set this custard mixture in an ice bath and stir constantly, scraping down the sides until it begins to thicken and is cool to the touch. Remove from the ice bath and whisk in one-third of the whipped cream. Fold in the remaining cream with a rubber spatula. Pour the Bavarian cream into the mold, wrap with plastic and chill at least 6 hours or overnight. The cream may also be frozen, well wrapped, for up to two months. To serve, dip the mold in warm water for a few seconds and run a knife around the sides of the mold. Place a large serving plate on the mold and invert. Shake the mold if the cream does not come out. Decorate with slices of kiwi, strawberries and blackberries. Serve with strawberry sauce. Strawberry Sauce It's important to wash strawberries with their stems on, otherwise they absorb a great deal of water, which will dilute the taste of your sauce. While the kirsch in this recipe enhances the flavor of the strawberries, it is entirely optional. 4 cups strawberries, washed, stemmed and sliced 3 tablespoons granulated sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon kirsch Sprinkle the sugar, lemon juice and kirsch over the strawberries. Stir and refrigerate the mixture for a few hours. Puree the mixture in a blender or food processor until smooth. Refrigerate until ready to serve. Keeps frozen for up to two months.

I've been using those for years -- especially for Christmas presents, because you can wrap up the pound cake and give it away. Aren't they French?

Seems to be the case. Anyhow, look, it was just a restaurant and the two talented chefs who made this a superb restaurant are still alive and well and let's hope ready to take on new projects. We will taste their food again! So good luck to Stelio, Patrice and all involved. If the restaurant has indeed closed for good (let's keep in mind we do not yet have a rock solid source on this one), well then we can only hope that a new venture for these talented chefs is just around the corner. I was sad when Claude Pelletier and Hubert Marsolais left Cube, and just look what came of it: Le Club Chasse et Peche. Not too shabby.

Very sad all this. Les Chevres was really a world class restaurant. Will be interesting to see why it all came apart. It certainly wasn't for lack of support by the critics, local or other.

Folks you heard it here first! Vive la eGullet!

As in closed for good or re-opening on Jan 15th?

Interesting follow up to this. I ended up buying a Bruno Paillard rose and was ready to pass on the bubbly, when I heard from my sister in Paris that she was at an antique shop in the Village Suisse the other day eyeing some vintage Champagne flutes. She told the store owner that she wanted to buy them but that, like me, Champagne made her sick. So the man told her his wife had the same problem and now takes an allergy pill whenever Champagne is on the menu. I tried this, not with an allergy pill, but a spoonful of kiddie allergy medicine, and it worked! No sickness from the Champagne, and none of the usual coughing from the red wine. Hooray! I'm going to consult my doctor over this, but it's looking like the Champagne dilemna may be solved.

When you do, wrap it up and eat it only the next day. Otherwise it tastes kind of awful.

Um, if the butter and sugar have been modified, then it's not the ORIGINAL recipe. It may be the new or the adapted recipe. I'm just asking to see if it's the same one we ran in the Gazette, one which came from the hotel (perhaps even from you pastry overlord???).

You'd be wasting your time and money. That Beaver Club is long gone.

I heard from a Maitre d' at another Fairmount property that he Champlain restaurant in the Chateau Frontenac is expensive and disappointing lately.

God, that terrible creme brulee trio was there when last reviewed the place. Urg! BTY fireweed, where did you get that Banana Bread recipe? I don't think that's the original.