Lesley C

I've been to Le 404 (69, Rue des Gravilliers in the 3rd.) twice. It's good fun and the couscous and tagines are amazing. Very hot hip and happenin'.

Excuse me while I head out to jump off the nearest bridge. Double drats! Menton 1 I'll definitely check out L'Univers. Boy...I could already taste the truffles . Hopefully all those great suggestions will help others visiting Nice -- on a good day!

In Montreal we have many very good pastry shops and customers to fill them (they aren't getting any better though). The pay is usually much higher in shops than in restaurants, so young people out of school tend to gravitate there. I think we have some good restaurant desserts, some very good (hello Patrice ) BUT chefs just aren't willing to pay good people. They often get a commis to make and plate desserts. I know of one good chef looking for a restaurant pastry chef right now, and he's only willing to pay $9/hour! That's CND $$. Starting salary in a good pastry shop was $10 -- ten years ago! I wonder what salary he's giving himself I've also noticed that many customers on the fine-dining scene just aren't ordering dessert anymore. In France dessert will always be a part of dinner because people tend to order complete menus. Here, it's all a la carte. It's just too easy to say no to desserts, especiially without a good waiter to sell them.

Wow, wow, wow! You are all so generous with your recommendations! Thank you. There's a slight glitch in my plan, however, this is for Sunday night. I might be in trouble!

I’m surprised you guys talk about restaurant work so much. My entire program was “patisserie de boutique.” The “patisserie de restauration” program in Quebec is an option for cooking students interested in taking a specialty course in restaurant pastry work. Interesting. I worked in Yves Thuriès’ restaurant in Cordes, and despite the high level of the desserts produced, I hardly found it as interesting as the pastry work I had seen in patisseries. Here in Montreal, the top pastry chefs aren’t in the restaurants (Patrice aside, of course). Then again, pastry chefs in Montreal appear to be a dying breed. It’s scandalous what’s going on in this city. Now to Chefette’s questions: If you were given the opportunity to devise a really worthwhile pastry education for yourself (given that you were between 28 and 35) or someone else at this point in time, what would it be like? What classes would you invest in? What schools would you take those classes at? What teachers/professionals would you pay to receive info from? I wouldn’t change the way I learned one bit. Two years in patisserie/boulangerie at the Institut de Tourisme et d’Hotellerie du Quebec (government school, therefore education – in French -- is FREE) followed by a third year of chocolaterie, glacerie et confiserie with an excellent teacher, Jacques Noeninger. Stages with MOF in France where I worked like a dog for no money. You have to do a stage in France just to see how fast and well young French pastry chefs work. Beautiful technique! I feel sorry for Americans who have to pay big bucks for a decent pastry education. What do the kids with no money do…the ones who would end up as pastry chefs in Europe? Seems to me the Americans have things backwards. No matter how far the profession has come, cooking remains a blue-collar job. What people or restaurants would you try to stage with/at? What would you specifically ask the chef to share with you during your opportunity? I’d just try to find someone who has great technique, patience, and is kind. I’ve worked long hours with some pretty sadistic big-name chefs (w a c k o s) and I wouldn’t want to repeat that experience. I don’t necessarily think apprenticing with a star chef is important if you have strong ideas of your own, which I always did. I’d ask the chef to help me work fast and clean, and put me in some high pressure situations once and a while. What restaurants, pastry shops, chocolatiers would you visit? Sorry, but restaurant desserts just don’t do it for me like patisseries, boulangeries and chocolateries. I visited Riederer, Philippe Segond’s place, in Aix-en-Provence last year and I liked all the flashy perfection, even if everything tasted was a bit dull. I love Ladurée because it’s so romantic. Dalloyau used to be excellent, and Fauchon -- in good years -- can be awe-inspiring. I loved, loved Wittamer in Brussels, but Payard in NY left me cold. City Bakery is good fun, modern and original. Hévin, Chaudun and La Maison du Choc in Paris are magical. But there are just so many wonderful little-known pastry shops in France. I remember great patisseries in Orleans, Poitiers and a great chocolatier in St-Malo that were just as inspiring as Fauchon. Poilane is just so French and – pardon the expression – classy. I’m dying to get to Demel in Vienna one day. What books would be part of your curriculum? What periodicals should an aspiring pastry person be perusing? What is it that you would be looking for as discriminators to emulate? When I started out I liked Nancy Silverton’s Dessert book and the Patisserie book by the Roux brothers, and they still hold their own. So many of the great professional pastry books are French. At one time Joel Bellouet’s books were terrific but now they seem dated. The first two Thuriès books are still amazing as is the series of Traité de Patisserie Artisanal. L’Art de Chocolat by Pascal Brunstein is inspiring as is his book on petits fours. My favourite Swiss books are from the Richemont School, La Patisserie Suisse, La Confiserie Suisse and La Boulangerie Suisse. Frederic Bau’s chocolate book and Pierre Hermé’s professional books are also inspiring.The Michel Bras book is good but it’s so personal; I had a hard time delving into his very French-specific world. In English, I like the homey stuff like Baking with Julia. Books like Charlie Trotter’s desserts just make me roll my eyes -- guess I’m a sucker for the classics. The only magazines I enjoy are Thuriès Magazine (I have most of them) and I used to like reading through Le Journal du Patissier (does that still exist?). In the States, I think you have to have a look at Martha Stewart Living Magazine (you’d be surprised how many great ideas I’ve gotten from that mag), and especially the Weddings issues for cakes. Food Arts is great, but Pastry Arts and Design and Chocolatier aren’t my taste. What would you specifically NOT do? Steve mentioned a very important point about not all schools being good. I’d make sure NOT to waste time with crappy chefs with inflated egos. Working with a bad pastry chef is demoralizing and a complete waste of time. There are many bullshit artists out there. How much time, effort, and money do you think you would spend on your program? Here in Quebec, the best school is free. And I liked the three-year format with stages in between. I also worked mornings during my third year of school -- we were encouraged to. What do you think are the drawbacks of changing careers? Do you think it IS possible to "pay your dues" in this field and pull even with respected professionals in the field? Weird question. Much about being a successful chef is about talent (dexterity and really good taste), being at the right place at the right time, and showing people you’re not afraid to dive in and work hard. Also, you have to go into this profession wanting to be a chef, with all that entails. I know plenty of young people today who don’t want to rise above sous-chef status. What’s that all about?

Steve, you're amazing. Thank you, thank you. Because of you I went to Gramenon, so I know I can trust your instincts. Thanks.

From what I heard, that was one of the problems. Apparently they supplied the restaurant -- and all the parties at the restaurant -- as part of the partnership deal for no extra charge. I'll try to find out more from my secret sources when I'm there next week.

I'll be in Nice for one night and am looking for a good restaurant. I heard about a place called L'Ane Rouge or something along those lines, and a good new one-star (can't remember the name). It doesn't have to be "the ultimate," but it would be nice if it were interesting, with memorable food. Any ideas?

KarenS made some great points about the brutal reality behind the job. One of the reasons I had to stop being a pastry chef is because I just couldn't take 12 hours on my feet anymore, and I was in pretty good shape at the time. Also, the 3:30 wake-up call is something your body seems to fight constantly. And with that kind of schedule, you have little or no social life. I loved being a pastry chef and I miss it every day. But boy...the lifestyle sucked -- BIG TIME. If your heart is set on it though, I'd recommend going to school just to get the papers and a chance to fiddle around and make some goofy mistakes before setting foot in a professional kitchen, where, unless you meet some brilliant mentor type, you might get stuck doing menial tasks forever. I remember spending time with people who begged me to hire them to learn, and after a few months they would skip out for a better-paying job. So eventually, not to waste any more time teaching on the job, I would only hire pros. It's all a business, with everyone out for themselves. Get training first, at a reputable school with a good placement office. I never had to go out looking for a job, either my teachers or my school placement centre found them for me. And that includes stages in France. BTW, the older you are (especially over 25) the harder it will be. I once met an excellent French chef who told me his biggest regret was that he didn't start younger -- and he started at 18.

Send him your CV

Well, I'm sorry too. All this over-wrought innovation is turning into a big fat bore to me. This girl is all Tetsuya'd out. I'd like to see restaurant innovation turn in a new direction. These days, I'd take that crisp-skinned chicken over a truffle macaron. Anyway, I think you misread half of my response. Then again, you're in the curry-with-chocolate camp...

Patrice, I think cheesecake and buttermilk panna cotta have a place on his menu. So what if they're popular in New York, this restaurant is in New York. He just should be making them better than everyone else. Don't forget, Jean-Georges is French. To him, such desserts are exotic and sooo American. Also, he's got to serve that chocolate moelleux cake, because it's one of his signature desserts (even if everyone claims he stole it from Bras). And what's wrong with chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream? It's the best dessert combination out there. Show me a candied vegetable that can hold it's own next to a good chocolate cake.

Wow! I'm surprised to see Quebec goose foie gras has made it to Vancouver. The quantities produced here by two farmers are minimal -- even the local chefs are fighting to get their hands on this stuff. Scrat 68, what did you think of the goose foie gras? And compared to the duck foie gras? I think the foie gras dessert sounds awful -- a waste of a beautiful product. Only a cook would make a foie gras crme brulee. Pastry chefs are smarter than that.

I once spent the day making cheese with a raw-milk cheese maker near Quebec City. At the end of the day we all sat down and ate cheese. It was covered in a 2-cm thick carpet of green fuzz, a.k.a. MOLD! He said he liked it that way -- without bread, of course. After two slices, I was ready to hurl.

Could someone here explain a Champagne truffle to me? Never quite understood the concept or the execution of that one.

Yes, Toronto types. And I've met a few Vancouverites who would be happy to see this province disappear. Perhaps more so seven years ago

"Bagels are at least one point in Montreal's favor." Bux, are you an anti-Montreal type? I like to think there are many points in Montreal's favor. We have pretty darn good croissants and bread here as well. Better than most -- if not all -- I tasted in New York. Where's the Fat Guy to back me up on this?

Jin, I was eating bagels in my Montreal goyische home for about 17 years before I found out they were a Jewish invention. I thought they were a Quebec foodstuff, along the lines of poutine and maple syrup.

Are they good? I'm sure that's the only alternative to buying "imported" Montreal bagels.

Montreal bagels are less bready -- more chewy -- than NY bagels and are baked in a wood-burning oven. I don't see any point in getting bagels outside the city, unless you just want to toast them. A day-old bagels is as bad as a day-old croissant.

Cabrales, Unfortunately, I don't have specific dates right now. I'll post them as soon as they come to light. If you're lucky, you could hit four days with four great chefs in a row. Usually, the first week is better.

The MONTREAL HIGH LIGHTS Festival 2003, Feb. 13 - Mar. 2. Yes, guest chefs are paired with local chefs in restaurants. I just saw the lineup and ... wow. I can't divulge names until later but let me just say, I can see two amazing events where pastry chefs might want to consider a trip up north. Hint, Amanda Hesser recently wrote-up one of these Spanish chefs.

OK, for the Montreal Highlights Festival, the theme this year is Spain and San Francisco. So far the only name I have is chef Xavier Pellicer of ABAC in Barcelona, who will be at Toque! El Bulli rumors are circulating. Also noteworthy, the Pourcel brothers will be cooking together in Montreal at Anise on December 5, 6 and 7th.

Oh and I heard the pastry chef from Ducasse might be the guest chef at Le Lutétia.

Who asked me about the Pourcel brothers? I just heard they will be guest cheffing at restaurant Anise in December. Will get back with details. (boy, some people on this board know more about the Montreal food scene than I do...)