Lesley C
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Posts posted by Lesley C
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Nice little jab but no cigar. The steak I had at ESt-J was terrible and their wine list features what four bottles?
Also, I certainly wouldn't call the wine list at Moishes poor. And your comment about the steak being as good as the Keg leads me to ask when you last ate there.
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Ug, the last time I went to L'Entrecote St-Jean my steak was tough and terrible.
And the wine list at that place sucks.
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After seven years working as a restaurant critic I would say I'm recognized maybe half of the time. And there’s little I can do about it. It's not the chefs, but the waiters who know your face.
That said, I do still make an effort to remain anonymous for many reasons.
First, it's a drag when they know you. Everyone is nervous and things often go sideways. And there’s an awkward vibe all night, that you-know-that-they-know-that-you-are-reviewing feeling. Ugh. Terrible.
Second, it's tough to determine whether there's a crowd of regulars on site getting preferential treatment when they know you. That kind of extra-water-refills-and-secret-splash-of-balsamico-on-the-risotto happens a lot here in Montreal and it's worth noting in a review.
Third, the anonymous review just feels more honest. I recently gave a good review to a talented young chef and when we later spoke on the phone he told me that he knew every critic's face but not mine and that he really had no idea I had been to the restaurant until the paper came to take a picture. He said my review meant the most to him because it was an honest evaluation of his work.
Even if you all say chefs don't make an extra effort for critics, as someone who has worked in a professional kitchen that certainly wasn’t what I experienced. Chefs may not rework the plates entirely, but they are at least making some extra effort no matter how small. Chefs care. They should. Good reviews mean a significant increase in business.
The truly honest review is the one written by an anonymous critic who is there like just any average customer, as in, your average reader. Does that discredit the reviews written when they know you? No, but they just aren't the same.
But then again with anonymity it may be all or nothing. If half the restaurateurs recognize you, is it fair to the others who do not?
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I would second the Lemeac steak.
But the best steak frites I ever had was at a wine club night at Moishes. I never knew they had fries there. Killerly delicious with that superb steak.
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If you can afford to pay for meals for six people, it would seem wiser to have two people visit a restaurant three times to account for what might be different conditions on different days. or, at least, four people once and two on the second visit. Then if the chef had been hit by a truck one night and so was not in top form (as one restaurant claimed when I gave it a negative review), he would presumably be recovered for the next. Only exception for me would be if it were a Chinese or Indian restaurant where sampling many dishes at once is part of the format..even then, four once and two once would be a safer method. And by safer, I mean as a defense against law suits, never mind being fair to restaurant and reader. Law suits have not come into this discussion but when one is at a publication of considerable note, such suits are always imminent. You can't imagine how they back down when they hear that the critic was there three times.
I respectfully disagree.
IMO, a restaurant reviewer is evaluating whether the chef can cook or not. You can dine in a restaurant 12 times to see if the waiters have their act together, but still it's all about cooking skills. And when and if you decide that the chef can indeed cook, the next step is determining the degree of his or her talent.
I get threatened with suits from time to time, but I have no problem defending my postition. Wonky service, an unbalanced wine list, and bad decor really have little to do with it. Yes they count, but ultimately you're there to see whether the chef is a force to be reckoned with. And that’s usually pretty obvious when the first dish hits the table.
Also, what are the different conditions on different days? The chef is tired? The fish is lousy? A waiter walked out before the service? Shouldn’t a good restaurant be ready to deal with such obstacles? And when the critics visit over and again, are they there to see the wrongs righted? Or the rights wronged? If the chef was hit by a truck, and the food is lousy, maybe it points out how weak the sous chef is. And if the chef isn't there and the sous chef pulls off a brilliant meal, does that mean the chef's presence doesn't matter?
I worked as a professional pastry chef, and on my chef's night off, I was busting my buns to churn out desserts on a par with the norm. And that's what the executive chef expected. No one said, it's lousy, but that's OK because the chef is off tonight.
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Why was MacGuire on TV last night? What show?
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That's why a critic should go at least three times..to counteract the one-time off night then average out the experiences..I believe that minimum is still a NYTimes rule.
This minimum requirement of visits may be a NY Times rule, but as newspaper profits sag and less young writers are taken on staff, fewer and fewer critics will be given that kind opportunity -- or be willing to put in the time if the pay-per-piece is the same for one visit or twelve.
Restaurateurs read Mimi Sheraton saying "a critic should go at least three times", and then use that kind of quote to say their review was not fair.
This kind of rule really irks me because it's bandied about by the critics who have (or had) that kind of opportunity, and used to discredit those who do not.
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Actually this was six years back when Trotter was at his peak I would think. The problems were not only the food (tiny portions) but the service was a mess because Trotter insisted on calling the orders. And I don't think they ever poured the correct wine with the food.
Also, I hate to say this, but I think we're going to have to start expecting $100 to be about average for a fine dining meal. You can't expect to get something really out of this world for $40. I wish you could, but it's just not realistic -- especially for such an event when the guest chefs often want to strut their stuff. Not that they always have stuff to strut, but their intentions are usually good.
I have had some KILLER meals at this festival. Especially in the first two years. Laurent Tourondel produced an amazing dinner at Chez L'Epicier on a Monday night, and there were all of four people in the restaurant. Chibois, Lorain, Patterson (and others I'm too tired to remember) all cooked up some jaw-droppingly good meals.
As for a sushi fest, don't forget we have had people like Tojo here and others (who was that guy from Sono?).
And for the Vij event, just book a table at Anise. There are no tickets involved.
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No, I wouldn't think it's about the SAQ. It has always been that the events with high ticket prices tend to be the ones that feature multi-course tasting menus with many wines, most probably excellent bottles if the producer is on hand.
However, you will find plenty of menus in the $100 range. Look for a program at the market or one of the participating restos.
$300 is a lot of money for dinner. Years ago I attended the Tetsuya dinner at Toque! that cost as much. I left angry. Tetsuya didn't do it for me.
The Charlie Trotter dinner was no great shakes either.
It's always risky. Some dinners I thought would be winners turned out to be duds and vice versa.
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Did the other guy cancel? His name and picture are in the program.
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Wait, I'm confused, are you saying Ehren Jordan is not the winemaker at Turley Cellars?
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Laurent Godbout will be welcoming chefs Todd Humfries, Paul Kahan, Todd Stein, Marc Orfaly, and Michael Schlow, as well as wine makers Randal Graham (Bonny Doon Vineyard), Bill Easton (Terre Rouge Wines), and Ehren Jordan (Turley Cellars) for one night only, February 22. The all-inclusive price is $300 and all proceeds will go towards research into anti-cancer foods by the Fondation Charles-Bruneau.
BTW, another great event for wine lovers will feature André Ostertag of Domaine Ostertag presenting seven of his wines with a five-course menu ($110) at BU. And of course the Pfaffenheim blow-out at La Chronique ($300).
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And while you're busy learning how to write, why not learn how to cook?
Now there's a novel idea, food writers who know how to cook.
I went to cooking school and worked as a pastry chef. I also grew up speaking French. Both have served me well.
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OK, found it, the ultimate brownie recipe. And so beyond easy (all mixed in one pot).
It's in Recipes: A Collection for the Modern Cook by Susan Spungen (Morrow, 2005).
Buy the book, the chocolate chip cookie recipe is another winner.
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The level of judges on this show is insulting to the chefs. Get some real food pros on there instead of these lame celebs. Such a waste.
I mean can you imagine if that panel was made up of Mark Bittman, Ruth Reichl and Russ Parsons? Then you could take the verdict seriously. But with Jewel saying she's not familiar with lamb...what the hell is that all about? It would be like having Frank Bruni judging American Idol.
(Wait... Bruni would probably be pretty good at that)
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Hmm I'm surprised. That info was supposed to be under wraps until next Tuesday. Bad boy, that Jean-Philippe.
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There's a Turkish in TO article in today's Toronto Star that you Uighur fans might find interesting. The link is up on the TO forum. (sorry, I'm useless at things like links).
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I thought it was Barefoot, as in Barefoot Contessa. Not as in the foot of the bear. Gee, that's just soooo West Coast.
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Ooh..another good one... I just heard about Balthazar's Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson at the Globe!
And the Barefoot Bistro woman chef is going to a L'Os.
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And I hear Vij will be at Anise. That's one not to miss!
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The press conference is next Tuesday. Interesting to note that the SAQ is NOT backing the event this year (those bastards!).
Otherwise Alsace is the region d'honneur and Vancouver is the featured city (interesting because Vancouver was the featured city two years ago).
The festival is much smaller this year (did I mention the SAQ is NOT involved), with less -- or maybe even no -- events at Complexe Desjardins.
That's all I know so far.
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there's also Cube
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Yeah, I agree. I never used to miss the Times restaurant review, and I'm not even a New Yorker. But since Bruni took over, I've read two, maybe three reviews. I usually don't get past the first paragraph.
What's lacking here? Substance? Insight? Not sure. But his wacky writing doesn't do it for me either.
I liked Grimes. I loved Reichl. But I'll pass on Bruni.
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jfl91, How long ago was that?
When i first went I had an awful experience. But when I re-reviewed the place last year it was miles better, especially the service, and the food seemed more focused.
Steve Shaw, eGullet and Joanne Kates
in Restaurant Life
Posted
Speaking for Montreal, I would say the service here is really very good.
The last time I was in Toronto (ages ago) our waiter asked my dining companion if he was as "obnoxious as his shirt." I couldn't beleive it!