David Ross

“What's in the "cards" for dining in Las Vegas”- In comparison to other large American cities, Las Vegas is still relatively young in terms of age. When you consider Las Vegas in the context of a young, growing city, you realize that the number of outstanding restaurants is just as amazing as the growth in population. And with that exponential growth, Las Vegas is quickly rising up the ladder to the top levels of America’s great dining destinations. The growth of the restaurant community of Las Vegas is more than a simple matter of National chains coming to town-diners are quickly discovering that the newest restaurants have something unique to offer-and they’re asking for more. In 2008, the luxurious “Palazzo” resort hotel and casino opened. One of the restaurants in the Palazzo is “Morel’s French Steakhouse, and Bistro.” The “Bistro” concept isn’t necessarily a new idea in Las Vegas, but in addition to classic Bistro dishes, “Morel’s” has presented something new to Las Vegas diners-a full array of farmhouse cheeses and charcuterie-all handmade, artisanal products. Now ponder this small fact-when Morel’s opened, they offered 35 cheeses. When I visited with a Cheese Monger at Morel’s during my week in Las Vegas in May, she told me that they would be increasing the cheese “menu” to over 65 selections due to customer demand. Would any of us have imagined that hand-crafted cheeses would be so successful with diners in Las Vegas? As restaurants take risks in terms of creativity, they often surprisingly find that their customers are willing to join them in the fun of the adventure. Later this year, Steve Wynn will open “Encore,” the Sister property to his luxurious, five-diamond Wynn. No doubt Mr. Wynn’s focus on having “Chefs in Residence” at Wynn will be introduced to the restaurants he will debut at “Encore.” You may have read the posts on eGullet and on John Curtas’s website www.eatinglv.com, about “DJT” restaurant at Mr. Trump’s recently opened property in Las Vegas, the “Trump International Hotel and Tower.” Mr. Trump would never settle for second best in his restaurant kitchens, so he hired the talented duo of Executive Chef Joe Isidori and Chef de Cuisine, Chef David Varley, (previously employed in the kitchen at Bradley Ogden at Caesar’s), to head up the kitchen in the hotel’s restaurant “DJT." The generous reviews of the creative and surprising cuisine at DJT, have boldly claimed this new restaurant as one of the best in the city. The largest construction project currently underway in Las Vegas is the massive “MGM City Center” city within a city in the heart of the Strip. Scheduled to open within the next 18 months, “City Center” will be a combination of hotels and condominium towers which have been designed by a team of the world’s leading Architects. No doubt there will be enough fine dining establishments within City Center that you will be able to pleasure your appetite for literally days on end without ever ordering off the same menu. Who will be the next Michelin-Star French Chef to stake out his “terroir” in one of the new hotels being built in Las Vegas? Some say that Chef Pierre Gagnaire will join his countrymen Joel Robuchon, Guy Savoy and Alain Ducasse in Las Vegas. The thought of dining at four temples of Haute Cuisine-each within a few miles of one another-is almost unimaginable. When I started this topic, my goal was to find what I called the “truth” behind the kitchens of Las Vegas. The Bon Appétit “Vegas Uncork’d” events gave me the platform for expressing the truths that I uncovered. The “truth” in a dish is a very personal experience. You may experience that truth when you dine on “Moleche” Baby Green Crabs in Venice-or in Las Vegas. The “truth” may come with that first, memorable taste of a dish you’ve never experienced. For me it was that first bite of the “Lemon Drop” when the shell of crisp meringue broke open, revealing a creamy filling of “Citrus Semifreddo and Pineapple Confit”-a taste sensation I discovered in Las Vegas. Thank you for obliging me with your time and interest in reading my report. I hope you enjoyed it as much as I enjoyed sharing my story with you.

Random thoughts and conclusions- “A Tale of Five Chefs Gala, Saturday, May 10, Bellagio”- I’m sorry to report that the photo album from my trip to Las Vegas closed after lunch with Daniel Boulud. I had hoped to share photos from the Saturday evening “Tale of Five Chefs” Gala with you, but using an old Las Vegas adage-“that wasn’t in the cards” for me on Saturday night. Earlier on these pages, Chufi asked me how I endured a week of gorging myself in Las Vegas. I responded by saying that I try to follow the practice of not over-imbibing on alcoholic beverages, especially at lunch, and drinking lots of water between meals. Well, I didn’t heed my own advice on Saturday afternoon at lunch with Boulud. I certainly didn’t need a third glass of wine with each of the five courses served at lunch. I had reached my limit, the breaking point where a week of decadence had caught up with my body. I needed a rest on Saturday night before attending an “after-the-events” dinner with friends on Sunday. Much to my own dismay, I didn’t make it to the crowning glory of “Vegas Uncork’d,” the “Tale of Five Chefs” Gala at Bellagio, hosted by my good friend John Curtas, the gregarious Father of Las Vegas dining. Imagine, sleeping through a private dinner of five luscious courses prepared by Todd English, Michael Mina, Julian Serrano, Jean-Phillipe Maury and Jean-Georges Vongerichten! I suppose there was one saving grace for my wine excess on Saturday afternoon-it allowed me the opportunity to “donate” my $275 ticket to the Gala event to the coffers of Bon Appetit as a gesture of goodwill for staging the events in Las Vegas. From what I gathered from friends who were there, numerous high-tech devices were employed, (music, video, smoke and fireworks), to introduce each Chef and their creations. The “insider” reports from my sources tell me that the performance of Mr. Curtas as Emcee of “Five Chefs” was given a rating of “five-stars” alongside the “five-star” Chefs who prepared the dinner. Boy did I miss a stunning event. Wine Service in Las Vegas- The Marketing Department at the MGM Corporation has created an ad that will no doubt elicit some criticism from New York. I found this advertisement in the program guide of the events for “Vegas Uncork’d.” A photo of a large wine glass is framed with this proclamation: “There are 96 Master Sommeliers in the Country-Three are in New York City, an unprecedented four of them are at Bellagio.” I can’t verify whether or not the numbers for New York are accurate, (but I’m sure someone here at eGullet is qualified to do so). I can tell you that when I was dining at one of the restaurants at Bellagio I was told that they actually have FIVE Master Sommeliers in residence at the hotel. In addition to the Master Sommeliers of Las Vegas, the larger hotels also employ a Wine Director, an Assistant Wine Director, a Wine Purchasing Department, Assistant Sommeliers and Assistants to the Assistant Wine Sommeliers. The focus on wine in Las Vegas is quite impressive. There is a growing movement within the fine dining community to put the same amount of attention on the wine list that the Chefs place upon the cuisine. One of the best examples of this collaboration of food and wine can be found on the numerous “tasting menus” with “wine pairings” found on Las Vegas menus. I encourage you to seek out these pairings because they give you the opportunity to learn and taste how wines can complement and accent the flavors of a particular dish. Of course, wretched excess is alive in Las Vegas and one can find $15,000 bottles of vintage French Bordeaux-the varieties of wines favored by the big “whales” in town trying to impress their silicone inflated girlfriends. (These are the same guys who don’t know the difference between vintage wines or wine “spritzers”). The “best” wine service I found in Las Vegas came during dinner at Wolfgang Puck’s “CUT” Steakhouse at the Palazzo on Sunday night-the evening after the “Vegas Uncork’d” events had ended. What stood out in my mind was the “classic” service presented by the two young ladies who were tasked with serving our wines. The depth of their knowledge of each wine was only revealed after they wheeled a chrome "Gueridon," (trolley), to the table. It was adorned with sparkling crystal decanters and an army of wine glasses appropriate to each variety that would be served. I will tell you that I felt quite special when the other tables of diners looked our way and saw the display of waiting wine goblets. While the steaks were from good “stock,” (albeit overly salted), the starters outstanding, (especially the “Bone Marrow Flan and Parsley Salad”), and the Strawberry Napolean cut into a portion large enough to serve four, the wine service at Chef Puck’s newest Las Vegas restaurant was a “CUT” above. Wonderful. And just a few more thoughts to follow.....................

Thanks for the kind comments. Let me know which restaurants you're going to try when you go in June-I'm always interested in the choices people make. I hope that my comparison with Phantom of the Opera gave some readers pause to consider the issue of "soul" as it applies to restaurants in Las Vegas. While nothing will ever compare to the experience I had at the Phantom in London--seeing Phantom in Seattle was a different experience, one with soul, because I was witnessing this very special musical in my "home" if you will. Dining at Guy Savoy in Las Vegas may have a different feel than dining at the Master's "home" in Paris, but does Paris have a better "vibe" than Las Vegas or are the two cities just different? It's something to consider. And as I mentioned before-is the soul of a restaurant a matter of the "place," or is it the ingredients? Does the produce have to be local and seasonal, and the fish harvested exclusively from local waters? Or--as I am inclined to believe, is the soul of a restaurant found in the hands of the Chef who creates the food? Now one could discuss this point even further when it comes to Las Vegas. Is the Chef trained to prepare the cuisine of Todd English at Olives simply following through with the training he received in Boston? Does that qualify, (or disqualify), him as having soul? I think we can only answer after having dined at the restaurant. Will our tastes of the dishes give us the answer? Or--are our other senses jaded because we are having lunch overlooking the fountains at Bellagio? Does this ruin our experience and tell us the restaurant lacks soul--or is it just a different expression of soul? The questions are harder to answer when we are speaking about "Celebrity Chef" restaurants. (By the way, I'd love to be sitting on the patio at Olives right now having a delicious slice of wood-fired pizza, sipping a nice Pinot Grigio while I watch the fountains. I have to head outside and do yard work!). But don't automatically disqualify a restaurant in Las Vegas as lacking soul because it carries the "Celebrity Chef" moniker. If you read my earlier review of my first dinner in Las Vegas-at "Michael Mina" at Bellagio-you'll clearly see that Chef Amoroso is doing two things quite remarkably well. He's carrying out the vision of Michael Mina while at the same time expressing his own soul through his own unique dishes. And I hope I was successful in pointing out the greatest example of the "truth" and "soul" behind one of the great hotels and restaurants in Las Vegas when I invited everyone on my tour at Wynn. The attention to detail at the hotel and the presentation of Chef Paul Bartolotta are really unmatched--and the Wynn embodies my definition of "truth" and "soul." Doc has presented incredibly strong arguments as to his side of the debate, and I absolutely respect the man for it. In fact, whenever I see his name next to a post on eGullet I immediately read it-he's tasted and travelled the world in search of the "truth" and "soul" behind some of the world's greatest restaurants-so he knows about what he speaks. (And a man who butchers his own lamb just has to be respected!) What we agree on is that the dining experiences in Las Vegas can be quite fabulous, the ingredients exquisite and the techniques employed in the kitchens are often flawless. That's pretty much a given. The questions about the deeper truths in Las Vegas will no doubt be a matter of further discussion.

I love it! Giuliani Italian "Spring Water" from the pipes of Brooklyn! Wonderful.

“The Great Las Vegas Water Ruse”- After reading my trip report about Las Vegas and the “Vegas Uncork’d” Events sponsored by Bon Appetit, you may have been lulled into thinking I was writing a softball travel brochure for the State of Nevada-a report sans any manner of credible criticism. But I give credit where credit is due, and for the most part, (the most part), the week was outstanding in just about every aspect-except for the water “Ruse” that is inflicted upon unsuspecting diners in Las Vegas. I have a lot of criticism for the water deception that is practiced at nearly every fine dining restaurant on the Strip. Don’t get me wrong, I love bottled water-for its convenience in quenching my thirst when a drinking fountain isn’t nearby. And I drink lots of water-usually from a tap. But call me a Traditionalist, (I call myself that very name), but I can’t bring myself to spending good money for bottled water in a restaurant when the public supply is just as good-or better. On past trips to Las Vegas I’ve dined alone, and that may be a factor as to why I have never become the victim of the “Great Las Vegas Water Ruse.” Maybe the waiters had taken pity on the lone man hovering over his Lobster Bisque and they couldn’t bring themselves to draw me into the Water Ruse. Maybe the Ruse was a trick of the 80’s that had finally been relinquished to the same fate as the old signs that bake under the desert heat in the Neon Graveyard. But the week I was in Las Vegas, I saw plenty of first-hand evidence to support the argument that the "Great Las Vegas Water Ruse" lives on. I will qualify my rant by saying that the “Great Las Vegas Water Ruse” was not tolerated at any of the private lunches or dinners I attended in conjunction with “Vegas Uncork’d.” Maybe the water service was already considered into the cost of the ticket. But I did have some meals separate from the formal events where the deception was openly practiced. (Not all of those meals earned the marks of merit to be included in this report). The “Water Ruse” isn’t something unique to Las Vegas-it is practiced in restaurants across the country-and depending on the region of the country, the State, the county and the local water source-there may be no good reason for you to pay upwards of $15.00 for a bottle of water at dinner. The Water Ruse in Las Vegas is just very apparent because there are so many fine dining establishments inhabiting a concentrated piece of real estate on the Strip. Some of the bigger resorts are the home to ten or more upscale, high-priced restaurants, all waiting for unsuspecting tourists and their credit cards to pad the bill with charges for “water.” This is a basic outline of how the “Great Las Vegas Water Ruse” is practiced- -Buy bottles of water in very large quantities, railroad cars of the stuff. Buy it in bulk so you get a cheap price, say a buck fifty per 10 ounce bottle. Mark-up the stuff, more than you do the wine, and pocket a hefty profit. -Immediately after being seated, ask the diner whether they prefer “still” or “carbonated” water. Do this before handing out menus or taking cocktail orders-they’re thirsty, it’s Las Vegas, it’s hot, they want water. -Some pretentious restaurants will present you with a leather-bound “water” menu. My, I wasn’t aware that water was so precious that it deserved being categorized for the “vintage” of the water. -Bring the beautifully pressed and shaped plastic bottle to the table well-chilled, but not iced, and presented in a faux silver wine caddy. You must impress the diners with your water service. -Pour the water into fine crystal goblets, but do not dilute the exquisite bouquet of the water by adding cubes of ice. -Add the appropriate, ridiculously outrageous charge to the final bill. If you can, bury it somewhere between the listings of the entrees and the desserts-they probably won’t even notice. Now I know there are plenty of people who will disagree with me-“the water must come from pristine glacial streams that have been untouched by the Modern Age.” Settling for anything less, like “tap” water, will poison your palate and you will not be able to taste the subtle flavors in the Chef’s cuisine. If it works for you, I respect your opinion. It just doesn’t work for me. I just can’t bring myself to pay $15.00 for a bottle of water packaged by a soft-drink maker that comes out of a tap in Atlanta. The primary source of drinking water provided to the citizens of Las Vegas and greater Clark County comes from Lake Mead. Lake Mead is formed by waters from the Colorado River. I’m not a water biologist, but it sounds clean and tasty to me. And it’s basically “free.” If you are of the same mind as I am when it comes to the water you drink at dinner, next time you go to Las Vegas try the “counter-move to the Ruse” that I played on the waiter at “L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon.” The waiter brought two bottles of water to my seat, one still, one carbonated. “Which type of water would you prefer this evening Mr. Ross.” “Neither” I said. “I would prefer a glass of “Clark County Ice Water, 2008” please. My response evoked a wry smile from the server-he knew I was on to the Ruse-but he respected a man who knew that “water for money” doesn’t always mean “better water” in Las Vegas.

Las Vegas goes East to Iron Chef America. I just saw a preview on Food Network for Sunday's "Iron Chef America." I think it's a new episode. It's going to be Batali vs. Paul Bartolotta, (see my report on Chef Bartolotta above), should be a good one. I hope the "secret ingredient" is some sort of seafood.

Saturday, May 10, “Star Chefs Luncheon Series” at Daniel Boulud Brasserie at Wynn- It’s only fitting that the last set of photos that I am going to present come from the crowning glory of a week’s indulgence in Las Vegas-Lunch with Daniel Boulud. (This is the last set of photos, but I’ll be sharing some parting thoughts later). When Mr. Wynn designed his hotel, he made a very bold move in terms of the restaurants that would inhabit his luxury Las Vegas property. His penchant for detail was carried into the selection of the Chefs who would run the kitchens of the dining rooms at Wynn. Steve Wynn specified that all of the executive chefs at his hotel would have to live in Las Vegas and be in the kitchen every night-an undertaking that was unheard of within the Las Vegas restaurant community. Imagine-a stable of award-winning chefs, celebrity chefs one could argue, who would actually be at the stoves every night? No other hotel in the city can make the same claim-another example of how the Wynn doesn’t settle for the status quo when it comes to Las Vegas dining. Daniel Boulud Brasserie at Wynn- The Patio at Boulud Brasserie overlooking the waterfall and green forest gardens of the courtyard- Barbara Fairchild, Executive Editor of Bon Appetit, opened the lunch by introducting Chef Boulud and representatives from the Andrew Murray Vineyards of Los Olivos, California, (Santa Ynez Valley), the hosts of the wines that would be served with lunch. Chef Boulud and Barbara Fairchild- One point to consider is that Bon Appetit is more than merely a magazine about home-cooking. As Chef Boulud so duly noted, Bon Appetit is a tireless supporter of Chefs and dining in America-along with encouraging all of us to be better cooks at home. Chef Daniel spoke to the fact that he is the exception to the rule of being a “chef in residence” at Wynn. Chef Boulud was quick to caution that he absolutely did not want to enter into a venture where he would fall into the normal trap of only visiting the kitchen two or three times a year. He is a perfectionist, a craftsman who must be involved in the creation of the food. He is not one to stand from afar while others who are employed by a large corporation in Las Vegas put his food on the plates. Chef Boulud said that it was only after careful discussions with Steve Wynn that he was assured that he would have the freedom, creativity and oversight that he required that he then agreed to open at Wynn. In his own words, Chef Boulud said he “wanted to bring the quality and soul of what I do to Las Vegas, but in a style that was very approachable and accessible. (To the people who visit Las Vegas). So I chose to create a ‘Brasserie.’ In France ‘Brasseries’ are known for being convivial and casual, but they can still be very grand. I think Daniel Boulud Brasserie at Wynn Las Vegas has just the right balance; everything delicious but nothing pretentious.” Well said Chef. Chef Daniel is every bit the friendly, gregarious soul you see hosting those delicious parties on his new television show-“After Hours with Daniel” on Mojo HDTV. He was a gracious host, and while Chef Boulud’s presence lent an element of “celebrity” to the afternoon, I don’t believe for a moment that he was merely there to pass out a few handshakes and scribble out a couple of autographs. No, Chef Boulud was absolutely one of the most personable and humble Chefs that I’ve ever met-and that’s not always the case when one greets a “celebrity Chef.” It was obvious that Chef Daniel was excited and proud to share his cuisine and the talents of his Las Vegas staff with our private group. He wasn’t handed a script from a PR Assistant standing to the side-he knew every detail about where the Asparagus and the Morels were grown, the ponds in Louisiana where the Crayfish were netted and the “sous-vide” technique used to cook the Veal Cheek. Many of the Chefs who work in the Las Vegas restaurant began their careers with Chef Boulud in New York. They looked so young to me that I imagined they all started cooking when they were children! Chef Boulud explained that one of the Chefs in Las Vegas will soon be off to China when He opens his new restaurant in Bejing. Chef Boulud with his family of Chefs in Las Vegas- I find it quite difficult to sift through the fodder of a menu description of a dish that goes on and on and on like “Skillet-Roasted 30 Day Dry Aged Naturally Grass-Fed Angus Strip Loin Basted with Pan Juices and, and, and.” It’s exhausting. I would much rather have a personal conversation with an informed server as to how the steak was prepared-that’s the type of service and custom I found at Boulud. I love it when a Chef and his assistants are confident enough in their talents that they take the time to converse with their customers and tell us the main elements of each dish. As you scroll through the photos, I think you’ll find that the theme to the luncheon was “Spring.” Enjoy. “Quail Ballotine with Apricots and Pistachios”- “2007 Sanglier Rose”- The fun part of dining with Boulud was found in the “surprises” not listed on the menu-the surprises only uncovered after the smiling Chef presented each dish-how the Ballotine was prepared, (the Quail meat was studded with Foie Gras and Morels and wrapped in Puff Pastry) and how the Apricots were cut (in thick strips to intensify the fruit flavor on the palate). “Crayfish Fricassee with Morel Royale, Fiddlehead Ferns and Ramps”- “2006 Viognier”- Another simple menu description that upon service to the table showed there were more suprises in store. This dish could have been listed as “Spring in America.” The Morels were from forests in Oregon-and they were stuffed with a “Royale” custard of vegetables. The Morel is sitting on a pillow of “Chicken Liver Croustade.” The Fiddleheads and Ramps came from Pennsylvania, the Crayfish from Louisiana. The seafood and vegetables were garnished with a buttery “Sauce Americaine,” made from lobster and crayfish shells. “Almond-Crusted John Dory with Asparagus Prepared Three Ways”- “2006 Grenache”- I was pleased to find that the “green” asparagus in this dish came from a farm that is a short drive from my home in Eastern Washington-delightful to know that our beautiful produce would be enjoyed by customers in Las Vegas. The asparagus was prepared three ways; deep-fried in a “White Asparagus Beignet,” lightly blanched “Spears,” and a cold asparagus “Salad.” The earthy notes of the asparagus were accented by fresh Fava Beans and Fava Bean Puree. “Veal Blanquette “Printaniere,” Roasted Loin, Spring Herbs and Radishes”- “2005 Syrah, ‘Roasted Slope’ Vineyards”- The Veal in the meat course came from an organic farm in Pennsylvannia. Chef Boulud did not strictly follow the guidelines for a classic stew of “Veal Blanquette.” (Another surprise not listed on the menu). The “Blanquette” or “stew” element of the dish came in the form of Veal Cheeks slowly cooked “sous-vide” and seasoned with fresh Savory leaves. One gets chills remembering how wonderfully tender and moist it was. The Veal Loin was roasted and served with pan “jus” and fresh Spring Peas. I must apologize to you though-the ingredient I had been craving in Las Vegas, yet hadn’t found, was a “garnish” on the Veal dish-“Crispy Sweetbreads” that had been dusted with flour and sautéed in butter. The “third” treatment of the Veal and the most delicious. We were served two desserts. The first, (I failed to get a photo), was a dish that Chef Boulud and his Pastry Chef had literally created an hour before lunch began. Chef Boulud was concerned that we needed something light and with a hint of citrus to cut through the rich flavors of the Veal before launching into our Chocolate dessert. I know I would never be capable of preparing “Mango Soup with Pineapple Sorbet and Toasted Coconut” in an hour! “Chocolate-Cappucino Tart with Caramel-Cardamom Ice Cream”-2005 Late Harvest Riesling”- Have you ever caught yourself in the “moment?” You know you are experiencing a meal that is something more, something just a bit better, something memorable. You know you are in the “moment.” The flavors are more intense, more unique-the “Cappucino” in the Chocolate, the spice of the “Cardamom” in the Caramel Ice Cream, the sweet syrup of the floral “Late Harvest Riesling.” And then you take a moment to reflect about how this little garnish, (“gold”), on top of a round of chocolate cake says “Las Vegas.” I’ll end my report about Las Vegas with a few comments on something in demand in the desert-water, and some words about the future of this exciting dining destination.

You know what I found so delicous about these crabs were the fatty little bodies. I mentioned to the Chef that I had only had soft-shell crabs from Louisiana-primarily fried and stuffed into a P'Boy sandwich. While those crabs are certainly tasty, the little bodies tend to be a bit flat and lack the substance that these crabs had.

doc-I asked Chef Bartolotta to give us more information about the seafood he served to our group during the tour at Wynn, (thank you again Chef). The Crabs were harvested from a lagoon outside Venezia. Locally they are called "Moleche." "Baby Green Crabs"- The Langoustines come from an island in the North Atlantic off the Scottish Coast. The more familiar term "Scampi" is often used to describe this beautiful shellfish to customers. There were two other types of shellfish served-Red Shrimp from Morocco known as "Gamberi Rossi Imperiali." And Caramote Prawns, also from Morocco, called "Mazzancolle."

Thank you very much. I've got one more meal to go-Lunch at Daniel Boulud and then I'll wrap things up with some final thoughts about the trip and dining in Las Vegas.

I forgot to write down where the crabs came from--but I'll ask Chef Paul and get back to you on that one! The seafood Chef displayed that morning had come from Italy I agree with you about our discussion of soul-a subject that may in the end not even matter-but one that is of great interest to me none the less and something I would like to pursue in another topic. I did have meals in Las Vegas at "Celebrity Chef" outposts and they were average at best-most certainly lacking in soul and personality. But those experiences were so minor they didn't merit being in the company of the restaurants I've reported on here. Thanks doc.

The langoustines and prawns were fresh, sweet and delicious. And the soft-shell crabs were the best-nice and crispy with all the gooey guts and meat bursting in your mouth with the first bite. I think John and I surprised a few of the other guests with the crabs-we grabbed 'em and shoved 'em in our mouths whole-the people standing next to us didn't look like they knew what to do with a soft-shell crab. So here were these two heathens sucking the juices out of the heads of prawns and devouring whole baby crabs in one gulp-at the luxe Wynn no doubt. That's what REALLY made it delicious.

Saturday, May 10, a private tour of the Food and Beverage Department at Wynn- The heart and soul of a great hotel is often found in the halls and workrooms “downstairs” beneath the bustling activity that goes on in the public rooms “upstairs.” This morning I was one of a select group of about 20 who had been invited on a private tour of the inner-sanctum, (the “downstairs”), of the Food and Beverage Department at Wynn. Our host for the tour was Mr. Andrew Pascal, President and Chief Operating Officer of Wynn Las Vegas. I am a simple man who loves food and cooking. I come from common stock so to speak and I’ve never been to Paris or New York. I write, in a somewhat amateurish voice, about food. I was quite honored, (although I’m still not sure what credentials I possess that snagged me the invitation), to be in the company of such studied food professionals as Barbara Fairchild of Bon Appetit, Dorie Greenspan-“Baking from My Home to Yours,” and John Curtas-KNPR Radio, KLAS-CBS Las Vegas and the James Beard Foundation. We were given an insight that few people ever have the opportunity to see-the prodigious work of literally hundreds of craftsmen and women that takes place downstairs at Wynn out of the view of the public. Every day these talented people are creating a special experience for you and your family. The payback of the tireless efforts of these employees is afforded you when you descend the grand staircase into dinner at “Alex.” The perfume scent and pastel colors of the fresh floral arrangements, the yeasty aroma of the fresh-baked breads, the dazzling crystal stemware awaiting your wine service, the fresh-pressed linen napkins on the table-all manner of the attention to detail that takes place at the Wynn-and it’s that attention to detail that is intended to satisfy the pleasure of your evening-and set the Wynn apart from all other luxury hotels in Las Vegas. I had the chance to see the detail unfold. The tour started in front of a non-descript gift shop. One feels quite important when your every move is anticipated by a large security detail of very large men dressed in natty suits and outfitted with wireless headsets. When you hear a big guy in sunglasses say “they’re on the move now, to the pastry kitchen,” you sort of feel important. I hope you’ll find the photographs speak to the truth of why the Wynn is one of the top Hotels in the world. Well-worn copper pots awaiting service in the Pastry and Candy Kitchens- Wynn employs 50, yes 50, full-time Pastry Chefs. Here are three of the Pastry Chefs preparing desserts to be served at the fabulous “Buffet at Wynn”- The Chef in the foreground is cutting puff pastry for tartlet shells, while the Chef in the background is finishing five sheets of lemon bars-blowtorch at the ready to caramelize the sugar that she will sprinkle on the top of the bars- Cinnamon Buns rising while they await baking and the hungry guests upstairs- How many dozens of eggs must they go through each day at Wynn?- The “Chocolate Lady.” She would become the centerpiece of a showcase display upstairs later in the day- This is not a flower distribution warehouse in downtown Las Vegas. It is the Floral Department at Wynn. Yes—an entire department, (and a very large one), dedicated to creating the masterpieces that adorn the hotel and its restaurants. To the left, a familiar looking gentlemen, Chef Alex Stratta of “Alex” restaurant at Wynn. Chef spoke to the importance of marrying the décor and flower arrangements to the setting and the cuisine served at Alex. (Chef Stratta spotted some fresh, baby, purple artichokes that had come into the shop that morning. He was pondering using them on the evening’s tasting menu-but I think the Floral Shop had other plans for the artichokes)- Four “clouds” of flowers that will hang from above in the hotel- Some of the ladies who work in the “Wedding” department, creating the flowers for someone’s special day- Nature’s Beauty awaits- And Roses- Master French Bread Baker, young Chef Boris Villate. The Bread Shop employs 30 full-time Bakers in addition to the 50 Pastry Chefs. Chef Villate and his staff bake 65 different breads every day for the guests at Wynn- Now if you remember, we have been debating the issue of the “soul” behind the fine dining scene of Las Vegas. As you read through this report of Wynn, I hope you’ll think about what you perceive to be the “heart and soul” behind a great restaurant. Or a great hotel for that matter. I think you know where I stand on the issue, but let me give you another example-probably the greatest example from my trip-that relates to what I think is the truth behind the “soul” of one of the top restaurants in Las Vegas. Chef Paul Bartolotta is the Master of seafood at Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare at Wynn. Chef Bartolotta recently won a prestigious Ivy Award sponsored by Restaurants and Institutions Magazine-one of only six awards presented this year. Chef Bartolotta gave us a virtual tour of the seafood he imports fresh for the restaurant, (deliveries are made on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday)- Simply grilled and drizzled with olive oil or a touch of butter?- Chef Bartolotta showing us the distinct regions of Italy where some of the seafood is harvested- Wynn actually has a “Live Seafood” room, (well, not really a room but a huge, huge walk-in). At Wynn they actually employ a “Tank Master” to keep watch over the live seafood- Again-the attention to detail is quite remarkable- The Spiny Lobsters destined for Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare must be kept at the proper temperature and the salinity of the salt water is strictly regulated- The little devils waiting to be sacrificed for our delicious pleasure- Truly “First-Class” Travel! These Langoustines are deplaning from their private berths after an overnight flight from Europe. A micro-chip is embedded into every case of seafood destined for Wynn Las Vegas. The shipments can be tracked every three hours-from the dock on the Coast of Sardinia, to Heathrow Airport, to Las Vegas Boulevard- It’s Saturday morning-Chef Bartolotta is preparing fresh seafood for us in the basement halls of Wynn Las Vegas-I am with friends-I am sucking the juices out of the heads of Langoustines-life is good- Soft-Shell Crabs- After the seafood extravaganza, we were ushered into the vast storage room that houses the valuable wine collections at Wynn. I am not well-versed in wine, so I can’t tell you what a particular bottle should sell for in a restaurant. I can tell you that we tasted a “Heidi Barrett Cabernet” from Napa Valley that sells for $1,200 a bottle at SW Steakhouse. The most expensive bottle in the Wynn collection sells for $100,000-a bottle of vintage Madeira from 1720. Our security detail escorted us into a large service elevator. You know the kind, the big metal boxes with wire grates for doors. Out of nervousness, I looked over at the guy from Food Network and told him I thought we were going to be elevated up to the stage of “Monty Python’s Spamalot.” (Currently playing at Wynn). The elevator delivered us back to whence we came-outside of the gift shop on the first floor. But the “surprise” was still to come. We were whisked past two unassuming doors, (the type of doors with no signs and no indication as to what lies ahead). We walked into what appeared to be a very exclusive apartment-first through the foyer, then the outer-room, then the inner-room. Whatever the proper term for the three rooms we passed through, stylish young ladies in properly tailored suits greeted us at each door. One last turn and we were served with crystal flutes of what was no doubt vintage French Champagne-and then the surprise became a reality. Standing in line in the formal reception room to personally greet us were all of the Executive Chefs at Wynn, the first in line being Chef Daniel Boulud of Daniel Boulud Brasserie. Imagine this reception line; Daniel Boulud, Alex Stratta-“Alex,” Paul Bartolotta-“Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare,” Masa Ishizawa-“Okada,” Rene Lenger-“The Country Club,” Richard Chen-“Wing Lei,” accompanied by some of the other talents of the kitchens at Wynn. And then, strolling onto the patio, champagne in hand, this was the scene from our private villa overlooking the golf course- Sometimes restaurants and hotels are skeptical about giving access to the backstage areas of their production-especially a troop of food people. But if you are proud of your company and the employees whose hard work and creativity are the core to the success of your business, you are delighted to share your good fortunes. We had been treated to a very rare, exclusive, behind-the-scenes look at the details that go into making your dining experience at Wynn memorable-an experience you will never forget. I know I won’t.

Chufi-a few more hints about the "training regime" I follow when attending this type of food event. Don't feel as though you absolutely have to attend every seminar, every tasting event, every private lunch or dinner, on and on. It can become overwhelming, tiring and truly a drain on your tastebuds. Choose only the events that are of interest to you. I am sure they were great fun, but I wasn't interested in the "Cocktail Smackdown" or "Midnight Poker" events. And while I was interested in the "Rookies vs. Pro-Ams" cookoffs and the classes on Pastry, I just couldn't reasonably fit those within my time schedule. And another part of my training regime that is probably at odds with most of the thousands who visit Las Vegas every day-a lot, a lot, of naps during the day between drink and eat fests.

Excellent question-and yes, the week was what one could describe as a "marathon" of eating. Quantity is rarely an issue for me-not because I am the rotund man some know, but because I find that most tasting menus-the one at L'Atelier for example-are composed of very small plates. And when you dine at restaurants of the caliber of Michael Mina, L'Atelier or Ogden, you can generally be assured that the Chefs have crafted the Tasting Menu so that the dishes harmonize with one another to prevent you from becoming overly sated with too many competing flavors. If the Chefs are on top of their game, they are going to present you with a menu of distinct flavors that start mildly-(say with a raw fish dish)-then build to a crescendo-(the more 'heavy' beef dish of short rib and strip loin at Sensi for example). The ending of the concert, if you will, are the sweet-dessert courses composed of sugars, (compared to the salts in the savory dishes), which will hopefully bring your palate back down. In terms of practicality, I drink a LOT of ice water after these big meal forays and I never eat a big breakfast. I'll have coffee, some sort of bread and some fruit for breakfast. Partly so I'm not full as the day begins and mainly so my tastebuds aren't complicated by a plate of salty eggs and greasy bacon off the buffet displays. Another key for me is to not over imbibe on the wine pairings-something I constantly find incredibly hard to do. If you review the wines we had with the dinner at Michael Mina you'll see that each was chosen for that specific course. I try to stay true to the Chef and the Wine Sommelier and not keep the glass of Chablis on the table after the fish course is removed. Now I might have had more than just a taste of the Chablis-a second glass perhaps-but that's only while I'm having the appropriate dish. If I keep the Chablis around and take the risk of taking a bit of the Lamb Dish and then another sip of Chablis, I've fallen into the trap of spoiling my palate. My tastes are now spoiled for that nice glass of Burgundy that is paired with the Lamb. So for me-to keep the palate fresh and interested in the next course, I keep the consumption of the wine within the boundaries of the course being served. Hopefully that makes sense?

Thanks, much appreciated. I know this has been a very long, drawn-out post, but bear with me a bit longer. The next reports will focus on a private tour of the inner-workings of the Food and Beverage Operations at Wynn and then one last event connected with Vegas Uncork'd-luncheon with Daniel Boulud-and a separate dinner at CUT.

Friday, May 9, “Grand Tasting, Sip and Stroll” at Caesar’s Palace- The Grand Tasting Event has become a cornerstone of the Bon Appetit Events-giving attendees the opportunity to “meet and greet” Chefs that represent over 50 of the top restaurants in Las Vegas. The food is as Grand as the Chefs-think in terms of having 50 plates of the signature dishes of Las Vegas. The Grand Tasting also affords one the chance to personally meet nationally recognized cookbook authors, (along with plenty of photo ops). In the months leading up to Vegas Uncork’d, I wasn’t too keen on attending the Grand Tasting. I’ve never been a fan of large gatherings because I don’t feel like I ever get enough to eat! I never found it comfortable trying to navigate through hordes of people while balancing a plate of fruit and cheese in one hand while the other hand is grasping onto a flimsy plastic cup of bad white wine. That dreadful memory of the past lurked in my memory bank as I debated whether or not to attend the Tasting this year. Luckily for me, two good friends whose penchant for fine food rivals my own tastes, stepped in and rescued me from the past-and made it quite clear that I would in fact have a wonderful time at the Grand Tasting. There would be no bad white wine served in plastic cups and the food would be exceptional they said. I bought the ticket—and I was glad that I did. The event was fabulous. This year, the Grand Tasting was held on the “plaza” out front of Caesar’s Palace under a large tent. While the setting kept us out of the gaze of the throngs of tourists who were plodding up and down the strip, I felt somewhat trapped within the confines of a big tent. (In the past, the Grand Tasting was held in the pool area of Caesar’s-a beautiful, calm setting for an evening of tasting and sipping in Las Vegas). So far, my reports on Vegas Uncork’d have dispensed little in terms of gossip. But one cannot attend the Grand Tasting without relishing in a bit of teenage glee when you walk into the room and immediately spot so many “Celebrity Chefs.” To copy a phrase from the “Chairman,” (the one on Iron Chef), “if memory serves me right,” I spotted these Chefs at the Grand Tasting, (in no particular order or ranking in terms of culinary status): -Guy Savoy, Wolfgang Puck, Daniel Boulud, Joel Robuchon, Hubert Keller, Richard Chen, Mary Sue Milliken, Susan Feninger, David Burke, Bryan Ogden, Francois Payard and Kerry Simon. (And that’s just a few of the Chefs I remember were in the room). Rivaling the celebrity “quotient” of the Chefs were the notable cookbook authors in the house, including: -Dorie Greenspan, Cat Cora and Alan Richman. Earlier in the day, while holding court at the head of the table at the “Editors-at-Lunch” Series at Sensi, Alan proclaimed that the “first five people who buy my book,” (“Fork it Over,” published by Harper Collins), would be given the opportunity to “accompany me on a restaurant review in New York.” There were chuckles at the lunch table-but I doubt few of the guests were seriously considering taking Alan up on his offer. I was. Alan didn’t promise to pay for airfare, hotel and taxicab, but that didn’t really matter to me. If I could be first in line to snag the chance to dine with one of the top Food Writer’s in America on his home turf I wasn’t going to miss out. After entering the event on the “blue carpet,” (the “red” carpet had not been rolled out for my arrival), into the Grand Tasting, I went straight for the “cookbook” corner to buy a copy of “Fork it Over.” As I gladly handed over my cash, someone tapped me on the shoulder from behind. It was Alan. I almost said “Oh, Shit” (maybe I did), I was so surprised. Luckily, I hadn’t yet had any time to eat-because if my tummy was full, I probably would have lost that plate of tapas. I was caught with my hand in the cookie-jar, attempting to quietly be the first person at the event to buy “Fork it Over.” My plan was to wait off to the corner, out of eyesight, until Alan appeared on “stage” for his book signing. Then I’d pop out from stage left and say “aha, I’m first, I’m first, I get to eat with Richman in New York!” When Alan saw me buying his book the plan was exposed—and it was, quite literally, one of the most delightful surprises during my time in Las Vegas. As far as I know, the offer is still on the table. After spending some time perusing the displays, it became very clear that this was not going to be your average catered affair of limpid asparagus and cold chicken. Each restaurant maintained a “station” featuring samples of the most popular dishes from their restaurants. Hats off to the designers and planners from Bon Appetit who created these lovely signs at each booth that noted the Restaurant, the Chef and the dish served this evening. “Auerole” at Mandalay Bay- “Clear Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho”- “Guy Savoy” at Caesar’s Palace- Displayed on a sparkling block of ice- “Peas All Around and Poached Egg”- “Brand Steakhouse” at Monte Carlo- One of the top dishes I tasted tonight- “New England Style Mini Lobster Roll on Crispy Brioche”- “Okada” at Wynn- “Yellowtail Tartare in Crispy Taro Taco”- “Onda”Ristorante and Wine Lounge at The Mirage- “Proscuitto Wrapped Scallop with Spinach and Butternut Squash”- I got caught up in the excitement of the evening and forgot to get photos of two of my favorite displays--the presentation of “Pork Belly with Steamed Chinese Buns,” from Chef Richard Chen of “Wing Lei” at Wynn--and just around the corner to the right, the scrumptious dessert bar of Lollipops, Ice Creams, Sorbets and Caramels, presented by Chef Hubert Keller’s “Fleur de Lys” at Mandalay Bay. As I strolled out of the tent with my signed, “first copy” of Alan’s “Fork it Over,” I spotted someone with a television camera pointed toward two gentlemen who looked familiar. Most of the tourists walking by had no clue who they were. But our group of four stopped in our tracks. It was a once-in-a-lifetime snapshot of two of the world's culinary Masters standing together with Las Vegas as the backdrop. Chef Daniel Boulud interviewing Chef Joel Robuchon for French television-

Perhaps I am mistaken, but the impression I got was that the strip loin was wagyu while the short rib was true Kobe. ← Correct you are-the menu description could have been a bit more descriptive. The Strip was Wagyu while the Short Rib was Kobe. They are doing a similar take on this theme over at CUT at The Palazzo. They offer a tasting of Kobe side by side with Wagyu. And on a side note-most of the Chefs I spoke to in Las Vegas mentioned that they are getting their Wagyu from Snake River Farms in Idaho. Another note about Sensi-all of the Chefs work with Chef Heirling to craft the desserts. Chef Heirling worked extensively in Switzerland and Austria in addition to his Native Germany so he is well-versed in pastry. He told us that he feels that staying involved in creating the desserts is an extension of the other cooking they do. Interesting.

Sorry, I forgot the second photo for the last post-the refreshing housemade Ginger Ale.

On Friday I attended one of the “Editors-at-Lunch” Series luncheons at Bellagio. My choice was lunch at Sensi at Bellagio, hosted by Alan Richman and Chef Martin Heirling. There were two other lunches that were held at Bellagio on Friday- -Picasso, hosted by Chef Julian Serrano and Wine and Spirits Authority Steve Olson. -Le Cirque, hosted by Barbara Fairchild and Sirio Maccioni. It’s quite amazing that Chef Martin Heirling has such an impressive resume for a Chef under 40. Martin was born in Germany and has worked around the globe in kitchens in Europe, New Zealand and Singapore before moving to Las Vegas to open Sensi at Bellagio. Sensi is one of my favorite restaurants in Las Vegas-yet it is somewhat of a hidden secret that doesn’t get the attention of some of the big-name restaurants that are more prominent on the Strip. The restaurant is just off the Conservatory and steps away from Jean-Phillipe Patisserie. Many people wander from the main lobby through the halls to the Tower building without realizing that Sensi is quietly waiting for their custom. Sensi was designed by Japanese architects to be an oasis of calm to stimulate one’s sense’s when dining. The experience starts when you pass through the doorway to the sounds of water gently flowing behind the walls of the entry sign. Lunch began with introductions from our friend Alan Richman and a discussion with Chef Heirling about his background and the design of the restaurant and the cuisine. I was happy that our group was composed of no more than 20 people-all of us seated at a long table, “family-style,” with Alan at the head of the table. Alan made a risky bet before we started lunch. He promised that the first five people who bought his book at the Friday night “Grand Tasting” would be rewarded with the honor of accompanying him on one of his restaurant review treks in Manhattan. Well, not necessarily Manhattan but he did say “New York.” Far be it from me to criticize Alan’s self-promotion, but he should be careful when placing such an open-ended bet in Las Vegas. (More on this later). Also in attendance was a Master Beer “Sommelier” from Belgium who was in Las Vegas in conjunction with our events. He (sorry, didn’t get his name), was in town to speak to the new concept of pairing beer with dishes in a fine dining format-something we would try this afternoon with our main course. Every design element of the restaurant was created with the theme of the senses, starting with the flowing, uneven walls that are lined with hardwoods . The four kitchens in the center of the restaurant are enclosed by floor-to-ceiling glass walls that expose the chefs to the diners. (Both the kitchen staff and the customers are “sharing the sense” of the dining experience). Chef Heirling explained that the concept of playing to the senses carries through to the choice of the service plates. No two service plates are alike and many are handmade. Your Santa Barbara Spot Prawns will not be served on a perfectly square china plate with linear edges-but it will be served on a hand-crafted glass dish with uneven edges and textures to accent the different textures of the seafood on your plate. The four kitchens at Sensi are divided between “Raw,” (live seafood), "Southeast Asian," "Italian" and "American Grill." The menus at Sensi are changed about five times a year, and while each kitchen carries its own unique flavors, the dishes are designed to work in harmony with one another. Customers are encouraged to order dishes from the four different kitchens. A view into the kitchens- The “Raw” kitchen- Baking bread in one of two Tandoori Ovens in the Asian kitchen- Martin described his Asian dishes as not being “fusion” style but rather, food composed of pure, fresh ingredients. An example being our first dish. “Crispy Tempura Maine Lobster, Malaysian Mango Slaw, Chinese Noodles with Sausage, Sesame Citrus Soy Dressing” “Taittinger, Cuvee Prestige Brut, Reims, France” Chef Heirling starts the dish with live, 2 ½ lb. Maine Lobsters that are poached for exactly seven minutes. The meat is taken from the shell of the lobster and coated in “fermented rice flakes,” (not your Grannies crushed Rice Krispies), before it’s deep-fried for no longer than two minutes. The result is incredibly tender, buttery lobster coated with a light and crisp, (and quite unique), coating of rice. “Miso-Glazed Sea Bass, Water Spinach, Lily Bulb, Lotus Seeds and Ginger Foam” “Lergenmuller Riesling, ‘Schawer, Pfalz, 2005” Now for all of you who watch “Top Chef” on Bravo, you know that one previous contestant, the impish “Marcel,” was from Las Vegas. One of Marcel’s tricks was his insidious use of foams to garnish nearly every dish he presented to the judges. Marcel rarely used the foam accent to his advantage, and in most cases Marcel’s foams appeared to be an after-thought used only for the sake of being trendy. Maybe Marcel was trying to copy the foam concept from some of the other, more masterful Chefs he knew in Las Vegas. In the case of this dish, the Ginger Foam added an exotic scent and whisper of Asia to the Sea Bass basted with Sweet Miso. A photograph of the beer brought by our “Sommelier” to pair with the main course- “Duo of Wagyu Kobe Beef, Sugar-Cured Striploin, Spring Pea Puree, Baby Porcini, Tamarind-Braised Shortrib, Pickled Green Mango and Onion Seed Grits” The shortrib- I’ve never seen both “Wagyu” and “Kobe” described on the same byline on a menu. Both meats were exceptional, albeit a bit out of character with one another. Standing alone, the more Western flavored Strip Loin with Pea Puree would have been fabulous without its cousin from the East. But I’ll never turn down beef for lunch with a big glass of beer. Given the heaviness of the meats, I would have preferred wine paired with the beef dishes, but the beer was fine. And finally, the crescendo to a delectable Saturday lunch. "The Lemon Drop"- That little raspberry at the bottom of the photo is sitting on a tiny pillow of “Mandarin Jelly.” I suggested that Chef Heirling place one of these fruit delights in the little box of cookies he sends home with each customer. The “egg” at L’Atelier was quite incredible, but this whimsical cloud of meringue at Sensi took the concept of the “incredible, edible egg” to an even higher level. After breaking the “shell” of the “egg,” streams of “yoke” made of “Citrus Semifreddo and Pineapple Confit” flowed onto the plate, creating little rivers through the crisp shards of meringue. Chef Heirling’s success is being rewarded with a new assignment opening one of the hotels at the monumental “MGM City Center” project next to Bellagio-yet he will still oversee and cook in the kitchens at Sensi while attending to his new duties at City Center. More good fortunes are on the way for Chef Martin.

Doc...the method that I am familiar with is the standard method of poaching but stopping when barely set then into cold water...dry the egg and standard breading procedure then a quick fry so the egg stays molten...delicious...we will have a crispy poached egg with a prime ribeye at NOCA. E ← Thank you so much. I would probably not even qualify for a position washing the entree dishes at L'Atelier-but I can't leave well enough alone so I'm going to try this at home!

I think it's reasonable to say that we both agree that there can be outstanding dining experiences in Las Vegas. And give me a few more days to share with you a few more of those experiences that I think may sway the pendulum more toward the side of the aisle that supports the argument that there is depth and soul behind the culinary artists who ply their craft in Las Vegas. Let me say for those who may think Doc and I are arguing with each other, we are not. We are debating a topic that we both obviously find to be one that deserves our attention, (one of the attributes of the formats presented at eGullet). If our discussions lead us to gain a better understanding and knowledge of the issue, I think we all benefit in the end. It's safe to assume that both of us pride ourselves on our taste for fine dining and in the spirit of two friends sipping warm brandy in the libaray-and we've taken the charge to further the discussion. But I am finding that our deeper question speaking to the "soul" of the culinary landscape in Las Vegas has opened a window onto an even deeper subject--what really defines a Chef or Restaurant as having soul in today's world? I'm inclined to open a topic on this deeper issue once I finish the reports here. (Someone else can certainly take the lead as knowing me, I'll forget to do so). It seems to me we can use Las Vegas as the basis for the separate discussion about what "soul" means when it comes to defining a Chef or a restaurant. Is there one definitive answer? I'm not currently qualified to present a case that fully supports one argument over another. I see both sides of the debate. I can, however, provide a couple of examples to bring other parts of the question to the forefront. There are many restaurants today that solely rely on seasonal, locally-grown (the parameters of what is called "local" seem to vary widely), "Farm-Fresh," cuisine. Some of these restaurants strictly adhere to those principals. Is this what defines the restaurant as having soul? If you really took this definition literally we wouldn't serve Lemon Meringue Pie in Seattle-Lemons don't naturally grow in the Northwest, (unless you have an electronically-controlled greenhouse environment in your backyard). I'm obviously over-stating the point, but you understand what I am saying. It seems to me that we have other restaurants who present food that is "seasonal" and "farm-fresh," (Bradley Ogden in Las Vegas for example), that rely largely on ingredients being imported from far outside the region. Does this call into question that the restaurant lacks soul? Or--is the soul of the restaurant found within the heart of the Chef (Bradley and Bryan for example), who create the delicious cuisine that is presented to you? I was saving an example to use later in my report that I'll disclose now. My example may sound odd to some of you, but it's based on a personal story as it relates to the theater arts-and my story has a direct correlation to our debate about what qualifies art-in our case the art of cooking-as having soul. I've seen the Phantom of the Opera four times-in London, Seattle twice and in Portland. All fabulous performances with chilling memories of the romantic music, the costumes and the lavish sets. The beauty of hearing "The Music of the Night" in the forum of a live performance of the Phantom always brings me to tears. Yet of the three venues, which one would I pick as having the most "soul?" It would of course have to be in London at Her Majesty's Theatre, the home where the Phantom of the Opera debuted many years ago. One cannot settle into the balcony of Her Majesty's Theatre without recalling memories of what it must have been like when Michael Crawford first appeared onstage as the Phantom. And think of glancing over to the Royal Box and seeing Queen Elizabeth sitting with Andrew Lloyd Webber watching the production unfold. The seats may be a bit worn and the air may smell a bit musty, but Her Majesty's Theatre in London is the home of the Phantom of the Opera-how can anywhere else compare to this precious original work of art? Yet taking the sentimentality of the occasion out of the equation, experiencing Phantom in Portland or Seattle was just as exciting as seeing it in London. And bringing this wondrous production to people who will never have the chance to see it in London is on many levels, a soulful experience. Whether it was the original production with Michael Crawford in London or the third under study 20 years later that will sing the songs of the Phantom when it comes to Spokane later this year-the soul behind the music of the Phantom lives on. One could correlate this story to the quandary of whether or not the restaurants in Las Vegas are serving their soul to their customers. My next report will be on lunch at Sensi at Bellagio, hosted by Alan Richman and Chef Martin Heirling, (and a Master Beer "Sommelier" from Belgium). I hope you'll find it interesting and delicious.

doc-thank you for sharing this experience with us. Your piece is written with care and respect while still admitting us to the reality of where our food comes from and how it is slaughtered for our consumption. I'll look forward to hearing and seeing your story continue through to the end with a delicious lamb dish served to your family. Regards.

I mentioned a couple of weeks ago that I would be missing Top Chef due to a food trip to Las Vegas. Now that I've been back two weeks I've had the chance to catch up on watching tapes of the past three episodes. Quite interesting-and also disappointing that we are this late in the season and the Chefs are being challenged with catering a wedding and flipping potatoes as short order cooks. That's not really my idea of the definition of a Top Chef. Coming from a trip where I tasted their food and visited with some of the "Top Chefs" in America today, I can say by comparison that most of the cheftestants, (not all), that remain on Top Chef have a very long way to go to even be close to cooking, (and conducting themselves), at the level of what some of us consider to be a top restaurant kitchen. So if you are in the mood for a diversion from Top Chef and would like to take a look at my trip to Las Vegas, go over to the Restaurants, Cuisine and Travel Forum, then go to the Southwest and Western States sub-forum. Go to my post titled "Vegas Uncork'd." The most recent posts review meals I had at L'Atelier at the MGM and Bradley Ogden at Caesar's. Hopefully, whoever wins Top Chef, they'll someday be cooking at this level of restaurant.

Thursday, May 8, “Master’s Series Dinner” at Bradley Ogden, Caesar’s Palace, hosted by Alan Richman- The formal events associated with “Vegas Uncork’d” began on this Thursday night with the five “Master’s Series Dinners” at Caesar’s Palace. One would be hard-pressed to select one among these five outstanding choices: -Guy Savoy, hosted by Chef Guy Savoy and Bon Appetit Editor-in- Chief, Barbara Fairchild -Payard Patisserie and Bistro, hosted by Chef Francois Payard and James Beard Award winning Cookbook Author Dorie Greenspan. -Rao’s, hosted by Bon Appetit Restaurant Editor Andrew Knowlton, Lorraine Bracco (The Sopranos), and Carla and Frank Pellegrino. -Mesa Grill, (aka Bobby Flay’s place), hosted by “Iron Chef” Cat Cora and Chef Steve Olson. -Bradley Ogden, hosted by Chefs Bradley Ogden and his son Bryan Ogden and Alan Richman. My recommendation for selecting your Master’s Series Dinner next year is to first think about what style of cuisine you prefer. Second, select a restaurant who’s Chef you admire and would like to meet. Lastly, make your choice based on the host of the event. Part of the fun and exclusivity of these dinners is the opportunity to dine with a small group and be able to converse with both the Chef and the host on a private level. This year, I selected Bradley Ogden. I had dined at the Guy Savoy dinner last year, so I wanted to try something different on this trip—and I had an interest in meeting both Chefs and thanking them for two very different reasons. But before I talk about the Chefs and our dinner, the “real” reason I wanted to go to the dinner at Ogden was to have the honorable occasion to again meet with Alan Richman, (we first met at lunch at “Fish Camp” the day before). For those of you who only know Alan through his writing, should you be afforded the opportunity, I’d encourage you to get to know the man on a personal level. As you know from the postings on eGullet, when it comes to Alan’s writing, he often becomes the topic of heated debates rather than the plate of pasta he’s reviewing. There was that dust-up over Alan’s piece about the Ferry Building and the food in San Francisco, and a recent spat with Bourdain that filtered into the Internet. One of the more infamous pieces about Alan appeared on eGullet-masterfully written by our own Steven Shaw. The post opened with a portrait of Alan greeting his guests in his bathrobe. As I remember, the “canapés” included little pigs in a blanket. And as we are wont to do at eGullet, a discussion of the merits of the Food Writer as Cook ensued—along with an intense debate as to the best pastry one should use when wrapping weenies. Alan is undoubtedly one of the top Food Writers in America, and he has the James Beard Awards and book sales to prove it. But aside from what I think Alan would find as these somewhat embarrassing accolades, he is quite simply a great story teller when it comes to conversations, (with a good glass of wine), about all things related to food and dining. And while he probably wouldn’t admit it, Alan was regarded as one of the top “stars” if you will, appearing at the Bon Appétit Events in Las Vegas. Chef Bradley Ogden is the recipient of a James Beard Award and he was one of the first American Chefs in the early 80’s to introduce us to the concept of “New American Cuisine.” He is truly one of the pioneer Chefs in America who motivated both his fellow Chefs and home cooks to get back to our roots and focus on preparing foods with seasonal, “farm-fresh” ingredients. The first time I dined with Chef Ogden was in 1983 at the highly-regarded Campton Place Hotel on Union Square in San Francisco. I remember the appetizer being a Quail Terrine with some type of Kumquat sauce. It was quite an adventure back then for a family from a small town in Oregon to be eating this delicious yet exotic cuisine in the sophisticated city of San Francisco. It was nice to share this early memory with Chef Bradley. Now fast forward exactly twenty-five years to today and I found myself once again having dinner with Chef Bradley and now a new addition-his talented son Chef Bryan Ogden. At a very young age Bryan took on the challenge of upholding his Father’s culinary vision as the Executive Chef at Bradley Ogden Restaurant at Caesar’s Palace. I posed a question to Bryan that I think you will find enlightening as it relates to our discussion about the “soul” behind the cooking in Las Vegas, and how he and his Father have achieved success in this unique restaurant market: “I like to refer to our cuisine as ‘market cuisine.’ We are strictly seasonal and the market dictates what we do every day. We have a large variety of ethnic backgrounds in our Las Vegas kitchen and all are celebrated in our style of cuisine. Everyone in the kitchen has some influence on the dishes that reach our diners.” “Not everything is imported; we have three farms locally which we work with that supply us with more than 50 different herbs and lettuces as well as kumquats, strawberries, squashes, melons and zucchini blossoms.” “One of our Sous-Chefs drives from Las Vegas to the Farmer’s market in Los Angeles every Wednesday and fills his van with produce.” “We are finding ways to keep the ‘farm-to-table’ philosophy in effect in Las Vegas. We also work with more than 100 other farmers, fishermen and ranchers who ship us product overnight on a daily basis.” So you see, not every tomato in Las Vegas began its life in a hydro-seeded tray in a foreign greenhouse—ultimately limping its way into the back pantry. To use a culinary term, please excuse the grainy texture of some of my photos. Low lighting in dining rooms doesn’t always set the platform for clear photos. The evening began with a reception held in a private room. We were served two canapés, (the best dishes of the evening in my opinion), presented on large silver trays by waiters strolling amongst the guests. “Olive-Oil Poached Wild King Salmon, Cauliflower Puree, Crispy Wild Rice Cake” “Marinated Big Eye Tuna, Coconut Foam, Lime-Scented Tapioca, Fennel Crepe, Housemade Lemon Cheese, Ramp Vinaigrette” The canapés were accompanied by flutes of- “Chartogne-Taillet, ‘Cuvee St. Anne’ Merfy Montagne de Reims, Champagne” (Whew, that’s a bubbly mouthful). One of the great joys of attending the Bon Appétit Events in Las Vegas is that you have the chance to make new friends from across the country who share your passion for food, cooking and dining. My table of six at Bradley Ogden included yours truly from the Pacific Northwest, a gentleman from Minneapolis, a woman from San Diego accompanied by her son who resides in Las Vegas and has a culinary background, and a couple from Dallas, Texas. Our first course- “Asparagus Soup, Preserved Meyer Lemon Gnocchi, Georgia Rock Shrimp, Kalamata Olive Froth" The shrimp and the lemon gnocchi were swimming just below the surface of the hot soup. Chef Bradley told me that they place the raw shrimp into the soup just before service so it doesn’t become overcooked. Foams are still quite popular in Las Vegas cooking, and I give the Chefs credit for using it appropriately, (not always the case when it comes to this trendy garnish). The Kalamata foam added just a whisper of salt to balance the rich soup. The fish course and wine accompaniment- “Pan-Roasted Atlantic Halibut, Spring Garlic Ravioli, Sous Vide Porcini, Parsley Puree” “Cigalas Assyritko 2006, Santorini, Greece” Spring Garlic could be described as a more virgin, wondrous taste of garlic-subtle and unassuming with just a hint of garlic flavor. My only minor quibble with the fish course was that the halibut was fished out of the Atlantic. As moist and flavorful as it could be, it wasn’t as precious as my beloved Alaskan Halibut. But the sea where the halibut swam was soon forgotten when I saw the garnish of fresh Morels. Chef Bradley is in my good graces-the Morels were harvested from forests in Oregon. A flavor of Spring found in the meat course, served with an appropriate wine- “Cedar Spring Lamb Rack, Ratatouille Flavors” “Anoro Malbec 2005, Mendoza, Argentina” The Chefs had “deconstructed” the traditional mélange of vegetables that compose ratatouille. The characteristic basil flavor was found in the bed of risotto under the lamb, while the baby vegetables were simply prepared and served in the style of a salad. A surprise was up next, yet sadly I was had fallen under the spell of the wines and forgot to get a photo- “Honeydew Melon Sorbet, Grilled Watermelon, Mint” As light and sweet as it sounds, this is a dessert that I’ll serve at a picnic this Summer. The dessert- “Rhubarb Mascarpone Tart, Strawberry Sherbet, Grains of Paradise Tuillet” “Williams and Humbert 15 year Oloroso Solera Especial, Jerez, Spain” For the sake of proportion in presentation, and my sake, I would have loved to have had a larger portion of the deliciously fresh Strawberry Sherbet. Some of you know that on occasion I post my thoughts about the often ridiculous absurdity known as “Top Chef” on Bravo. I would ask that the contestants on Top Chef turn their attention to my photo of what a “Top Chef” kitchen looks like. The kitchens at Bradley Ogden are a model of decorum and professionalism-a concept often overlooked by the antics displayed by the contestants on that reality show on Bravo. All good things often end their run in Las Vegas-Elvis at the “International Hotel,” Celine at Caesar’s. Others come in to carry on the party-Bette and Elton’s Red Piano now share Celine’s venue with Cher. Such is the case at Bradley Ogden. Bryan is no longer cooking in Las Vegas-he’s moved to the environs of Southern California and will be announcing news of his latest kitchen post very soon. Chef Bradley is soon to open a hotel and no doubt another one of his delicious restaurants amidst the beauty of the rolling hills just North of Santa Barbara in Solvang, Californina. Not to worry though. Bradley Ogden at Caesar’s Palace is awaiting your reservation for dinner in Las Vegas. I may not share my face cards with you and tell you which meal ranked as my “best” while I was in Las Vegas. But I will place a bet on the table and tell you that my next report considers the fortunes of twenty lucky diners at the “Editors at Lunch Series” on Friday, May 9 at Sensi at Bellagio. Hosted by Alan Richman, Chef Martin Heirling presented us with some of the most creative, outrageously flavorful, whimsically creative food I have ever had the pleasure of experiencing.