chefette

ChocoChris, I was glad to hear that your cake came out well and your friends were happy with it since that is what counts. I was actually thinking that the oven temp on the recipe might be too high and you would be happier with baking at 350 since like you and Lesley C both mentioned, I thought that the cake appeared overly browned on top. The cake top is made of small 'window' panels made of paper-thin gumpaste in white and parchment. I cut circles and squares out of the panels (with micro cutters) and then colored and cut various circles, squares, and strips in the colors of the glass in the window. I decided to just suggest the basic motion, colors and shapes of the actual window. But yes, these are the panels of which Steve spoke. The gumpaste dogwoods were chosen because the bride loved dogwoods and used them in her floral sprays at the event. There were two cake flavors for this cake: the large top tier was a dense chocolate fudge cake with chocolate ganache, chocolate chai cream, and rice crispies tossed in tempered chocolate for a slight crunch. The small two tiers were pound cake with lemon curd - very clean and straightforward.

Pictures of our Frank Lloyd Wright Cake can be viewed here at http://www.pastryarts.com/FLWright_cake.html Unfortunately my 3 megapixel camera was not available so the pictures are not as clear as I would like.

I have seen people use the food processor method but have never done it myself. I think it might incorporate too much air and make the ganache sort of crumbly. How are your results? You might try chopping the chocolate in the processor and then pouring the hot cream over it in a seperate bowl and stirring with a rubber spatula. I think it depends on what you are using the ganache for and how much you really are interested in it. I have experiments on my own and have had to make ganache per directions of various individuals and have found that different techniques can yield dramatically different results. The microwaveing cream and chocolate together is something I have not seen before. Again, how are your results? Is the ganache silky and elastic? Does it set up smooth and glossy? By the way, the Frank Lloyd Wright cake came out pretty nice. The reception was in an art gallery with lots of funky bright modern pieces and the photographer thought the cake was just another of the installations in the show until we told him it was the wedding cake. We should be able to post photos on our site http://www.pastryarts.com tomorrow (praying that they come out OK). I hope the chocolate torte came out good for you Chocochris.

OK, I have baked off this cake myself, and you may indeed be deflating your whites. It is not a high cake - comes out about 2" in fact. I paddled the yolks into the almond paste until smooth then added the butter, half the sugar, and vanilla and creamed that. I did note that the instructions specify that the whites should be whipped to a stiff peak with the other half sugar. I had previously combined my flour, ground almonds (I used almond flour) and ground chocolate. And yes, the instructions do omit the critical add about 1/3 of the whites to the yolk mixture tyo lighten it step prior to folding Add the lightened yolk mix to the whites, give it a couple of folds then add your flour mix and continue folding gently til combined. It went together very well. Since you are using a spring form pan I did too. I greased and floured the bottom but not the sides. I did not note any build up of steam that required the oven door to be opened. I left the door closed. It was done in 40 minutes. Since this is a torte it is supposed to be quite low and the layers thin. I find the ganache filling methodology to be very awkward and overly complicated. I order to have plenty of ganache for filling and covering I would use 600 grams good dark chocolate (I don't know what you have available to you) Don't use chocolate chips or any of that other baking chocolate stuff. In this case since the ganache chocolate will play a very prominent role in your final cake I would spring for Valhrona 72% so that it will have a nice clear chocolate taste and will not be too sweet. chop it up and melt it in the microwave or over hot water and set it aside. Boil 1 pint heavy cream with about 2 oz light corn syrup. You can add the cream to the chocolate or vice versa stirring in a small tight circle in the center of the bowl (deeper is better than wider) until the chocolate and cream come together in a central 'heart' as a dark glossy center. Keep up your stirring and this will continue to draw in more of the mixture and broaden outwards. Finally scrape the edges and stir it together. When it is cooled so it is about body temperature (maybe 20 minutes) stir in a stick (4oz) or softened butter cut into tablespoons. Cover with plastic and allow it to set in a cool place for at least 4 hours. Then slice and moisten your cake and fill with the ganache. You will probably want to chill the cake for an hour or two at this point and then cover it with the marzipan. to glaze it, your cake should be on a cardboard circle no larger that itself set on a wire rack over a nice clean tray with edges to catch excess glaze. You will want to warm your ganache slightly and add enough simple syrup --just a touch really (equal parts sugar and water brought to a boil and cooled) to it so that it will pour nicely. Since you want it to set up you dont want it to be thin and runny so it all just sort of runs off your cake. take a deep breath and confidently pour your glaze over your cake. I find you get nice coverage by pouring it in a circle about 1 inch inside the perimeter of the cake. Don't try the spatula thing since that will just cause more trouble than it is worth (for an amateur). Jiggle the wire rack to get the glaze to evenly fall. Let it sit for about 10 minutes or so so that glaze isn't dripping off it anymore then have your cake presentation plate handy, scoop up the cake carefully with your large offset spatula, swipe up any dribbles of glaze, and place it on your plate. The melted coverture glazing is not a really workable option. The ganache is your best bet at this point in time I believe. Good luck! Let's hear all about your final cake. Yes, we can post pictures of the Frank Lloyd Wright Cake next week.

Seems to me you can cook meat with just a bit of fire, salt pepper, and some stones maybe.

I too would love to travel light alas, that is rarely possible. For instance going to the national pastry competition last year we shipped a ton of equipment plus each carried two large suitcases and carry on bags. The pastry championship represents the absolute worst case scenario in terms of tools. Because you need to demonstrate skills in all areas: chocolate, sugar, petit fours, entremet, frozen desserts, bon bons, and plated desserts you have to bring just about everything AND the cabinetry to put it in. Sugar equipment would include sugar lamp, sugar warmer, torch, denatured alcohol, sugar pump, neoprene mats, large silpats, spray oil, sugar gloves, scissors, sugar cabinet, cardboard, foam core board, wood, freezer spray, colors... sugar sandpaper, airbrush, airbrush colors, air pump, pointy things, silicone leaf presses Chocolate: molds, caramel bars, scrapers, chocolate, chocolate colors, a guitar (to cut chocolates or pralines, cocoa butter, stuff for fillings... rubber spatulas, silpats, plastic sheets, paint brushes. They provided chocolate warmers Bowls, lots of bowls, plastic wrap molds, cake rings, plus everything listed above. Fortunately most of the time you don't have to bring all that stuff with you places. But you can rarely count on being able to get most of the small tool you need at off site locations so... it is an exercise in planning and packing. Many times when we travel, we have done some things in advance so we need to be very careful about temperature and handling. I always like coming home best. Always lighter.

10" French knife 2 razor sharp paring knives 3 serrated paring knives large serrated knife planer zester small handheld zester peeler 3 sizes of melon ballers 2 whisks 50 ml ladel wooden spoon large kitchen spoon 3 flexible bowl scrapers 1 metal bench scraper disposable plastic pastry bags 1 small pastry bag 3 large pastry bags 10 round piping tips (graduated size) 10 star piping tips (graduated) assorted tiny piping tips for decorative work parchment triangles and cornets Xacto knife and extra blades Craft shop extruder and set of plates for various shapes Round cutter set Scalloped round cutter set microcutter set Wand mixer Paint brushes Rubber tipped brushes Sharpie candy thermometer digital meat thermometer (never used in meat) wine opener digital scale & batteries various rubber spatulas 2 half sheet silpats plain plastic sheeting gloves ice pick small wax carving tools various other amusing things depending on the project I also normally carry modelling chocolate chocolate sugar paste my digital camera edible food color powders As you can see, I use a large tool box Oops, forgot some stuff swiss army knife large offset spatula small offset spatula straight metal spatula slotted spoon thing fine strainer tea strainer digital clock lemon reamer marzipan tools extension cord refractometer 12 tartlet molds gelatine sheets vanilla beans ruler

OK, you can see dome info on Grains of Paradise here Kazters spice page They taste very peppery. But are quite expensive. 60g bottle cost about $12

We picked up some Grains of Paradise - in Boston as a matter of fact, They look sort of like corriander seens of smallish peppercorns, slight golden hint. I used them in a poaching mix and can't say that I could tell exactly the taste. I need to check back and see, but won't be able to do so til tonight.

Well, it seems to me that there will always be people who need to idolize an arteest. I see thos e old movies from the 60s with some society type just all a dither over some ridiculous arteest. I think that a chef, any craftsman can find the 'art' in their craft. The problem that I think you are referring to is when the chefs get a hint that the audience may indeed perceive them as an arteest and start to play up to them shamleslly. I think this may be most evident in the relation some chefs have with the media. Blam!

Stick the handle of a wooden spoon in at the beginning. You can even mark it if necessary. Then check back when it looks about right. Also, keep in mind that the person who said reduce by half in the first place was just guesstimating probably.

I saw it in person at Schramsburg vineyard last summer when Steve Klc was in a guest chef seminar on champagne there and at the CIA. We were at a bar b q in the olive grove on top of the mountain at sunset and the owner drew a sword. We all backed up a good distance not sure what to expect and he just sabered the top off the bottle clean as can be. It was VERY cool. Steve and his classmates had the chance to learn sabering and do it during the course. I will encourage him to post about it.

Quote spqr: What is wrong with achieving excellence in anything? Those chefs who can legitimately claim to have achieved excellence are few and far between, I would surmise, and being consistently excellent at anything is a very big accomplishment. Quite true. I really doubt there are all that many people out there achieveing excellence. I spent a week staging at the French Laundry last summer and after that I really do believe that excellence is their goal and they devote quite a bit of manpower and thought to attaining it. I don't really know how much role innovation plays in that kitchen. But excellence is king! They serve what - 100 people a night? They have about 30 people working hard/studiously all day long to make that happen. It is a really nice atmosphere to work ion - natural light, windows, fresh air, open space. Everyone is really into food and not all horribly rushed and stressed like you see alot of places. But during service it is very apparent that there is no room for sloppy performance. If something isn't right it is redone. Really impressive. Really inspiring. Setting an excellent standard and living up to it every day has got to be a laudable undertaking. But like Suzanne F says, how do you keep it interesting? I guess at someplace like tyhe French Laundy you don't accept anything less than excellence, but you change the menu every day so it is excellence in something different. Is that less of an achievement than the innovation of - say Heston Blumenthal? I have read many copmments about him on the site. Not that I want this to deteriorate into a discussion of Heston and molecular gastronomy - but say how do you weigh innovation like that or the Adrias against the French Laundry and their pursuit of excellence? Do you think more diners are willing to spend more dining dollars on innovation or on excellence?

So... are some areas of innovation or progression more significant or important than others? Can progress or innovation be made in one area at the expense of another? For example, prime areas: Skill/technique, Ingredients/Flavor/Combinations, Presentation/Performance. Is it acceptable to progress in skill (faster, cheaper, new equipment) if there is no impact on flavor or presentation?

QUOTE (Simon Majumdar @ Sep 30 2002, 11:21 AM) I think there is a big difference between those who are excellent because they constantly look to improve and never accept that they should stand still and those who use innovation as a front to their own lack of talent. Who do you think are the most egregious examples of this?

So, anyone who actually is talented and excellent at their craft is excellent at it specifically BECAUSE they are never accepting the given and are constantly expanding above and beyond the boundaries? But...do you believe that there are those who innovate, or use innovation, as a means of draping themselves in the aura of excellence and accomplishment in the field? (edit: Sorry, when I hit post the board told me it had flood control so I added some thoughts while waiting and hit post again.)

So, anyone who actually is talented and excellent at their craft is excellent at it specifically BECAUSE they are never accepting the given and expanding above and beyond?

Is it sufficient for a chef to be excellent or does a chef need to go beyond the existing standards and pioneer new techniques or combinations to be outstanding? Obtaining excellent ingredients, having an excellent kitchen, utilizing excellent technique, and producing an excellent menu in an excellent atmosphere is no simple accomplishment (partially due to the many varying expectations of consumers). Arguably there are few restauranteurs who are able to gather the talent and ingredients in a location that can support them. But is this achievement enough to rate the chef in charge as great? Does a chef have to break new ground, introduce new techniques, new flavor combinations to be considered great or outstanding? What is it that puts any specific chef in the limelight? Is it possible to be excellent without innovating and introducing change? What are your thoughts?

For home consumption I usually use 2 leeks sliced thin and sweated in 2 T olive oil, add 1 qt chicken stock, and 2 yukon gold potatos (about the size of my fist) cut into small dice, bring to boil, add 1 chicken breast finely diced (easiest if frozen) and simmer until potatos are tender - add water if necessary, salt and pepper to taste. I'm making it tonight -ummmm. I don't add milk or cream, and do not puree. I like it better this way. But as you see from the replies, there is no secret. Just common sense and personal taste. If it's too thick, make it thinner with whatever makes the most sense - water, chicken stock, milk, wine. Some people actually prefer a leek and potato soup without any stock or dairy added, so not to cloud the pure flavors of the leek and potato. No rights or wrongs, it is soup.

I guess there is no way to tell for sure. I once had a root beer in Panama that contained a cricket. I am still totally grossed out by THAT one. And its not like the guy in the roadside place we stopped in could have cared. After that incident I was informed that in Panama (especially the countryside) you should ALWAYS pour out any beverage into a glass and examine it - of course they can't give you any guarantees about the glass.

I had drinks with some friends at Legal Seafood last night (its just convenient) and one of my friends - who had been scrutinizing his glass of Zin and muttering about cork discovered 4 poached fruitflys in the bottom of his glass. I was drinking white so no worries for me, but everyone else had reds. This discovery led to much gaging and scrutiny of remaining wine and indications that no, never again would we visit LS for beverages. They actually handled it quite well, giving us all a round of drinks and offred my friend another glass of the Zin from a fresh bottle that they would open at the table for him. They also had the manager appologize and gave us a couple of appetizers.

I have actually had sandwiches at the Celebrity Deli and they are really good. I would not be afraid of them. Of course, it HAS been awhile since I was there.

Well...if you still had to spend $50 for someone who failed to show - were you able to get $50 worth of food packaged 'To Go' for your friend who was unable to attend? Seems only fair since the restaurant is apparently saying they need $50 to cover mise en place to do dinner for him. Just say your friend is unaccountably invisible..still there, they just don't believe in him enough and order his meal of no greater than $50. Since you ARE there and are still ordering food and wine, they really should provide you some value for your $50. Perhaps the tip!

It appears that you are part of a pretty impressive team at Ouest. What are your relationships? Are you the ultimate leader guiding the team, or do you function on a more egalitarian (or is that egulletarian) basis sharing decision-making based on established principles and guidelines according to your areas of expertise? For instance, do you and Pastry Chef Thierrey Busset operate roughly as equals each in your own realm? Thanks for taking the time to respond.

From your bio, it sounds as though you have had a very rewarding experience in the food field, been fortunate to hook up with excellent people who liked you, recognized your talent and were interested in mentoring you. So I have several personnel related questions for you: Is this something you immediately recognized or did it take you a while to appreciate the significance of this positive effect others have had in shaping your career? Does this impact how you see people on your staff? Have you sought or identified newbies on your staff and fostered them, helped them become all they could be (mirroring your philosophy that food should taste of what it is (which I read as --bring out its true glory)? Do you have a position on accepting culinary school graduates versus non-schooled personnel into your kitchen? What is it?