ulterior epicure

Again, I maintain that he had, and lost, his chance there with Daniel.

To an extent, the "horse race" is what Eater is about. The basic premise (that Bruni wants that four-star rush one more time) seems to me sound, though I am not at all sure Bruni will in fact find a four-star-worthy restaurant between now and August. ← Let me help him: Eleven Madison Park. But I agree with your assessment (as I alluded to above in my post), Bruni has made it abundantly clear that it doesn't pass his smell test. As for Del Posto, I didn't even address that one because I think it's utterly unworthy (to me, anyway). If anything, it seems Bruni got trigger happy and wasted a perfectly fine shot on Daniel. And he seemed to apologize for it all the way through the piece.

I think all this business about Bruni issuing an eleventh-hour legacy 4-star review is utter silliness. The likelihood of this would have been exponentially higher: (a) Had Bruni not wasted a four-star review on Daniel (January 21, 2009), and (b) If there wasn't a serious lack in compelling or convincing candidates eligible for four-stars at the moment. All of the usual suspects have already been awarded four stars, and the few other likely candidates have been eliminated and dismissed in Bruni's fire-side chats and fairly recent reviews. Can anyone here, in good conscience, name a restaurant in New York City (other than the reigning four-star restaurants) that fits the New York Times four-star mold? I can think of only one: Eleven Madison Park. But Bruni seems reluctant. Then there's Bouley, the most recently speculated-about contender. But, as we know, it blew its chance (and given my latest visit in March, I think Bruni was too generous in awarding it three stars). I've not been to momofuku ko. Given Bruni's momo-love, you find me arguing that it's not the most likely candidate. But what would justify a re-review so soon? What has changed that would warrant such a rapid promotion? It's heavily spiked, but I don't think the Kool-Aid is quite *that* strong. Now, I know that Bruni has arguably modified the mold (some would say destroyed it), but do you really see the stars aligning for any restaurant currently open in the city? (Even now, Marea seems to be the heir apparent.) In my opinion, Eater got caught up in the tee vee sweepsmania and is just trying to stir the pot. Of course, I've had to eat plenty of my own words. And I may just have to between now and August.

Nate_the_great, how was your Aqua experience?

Considering that California's unemployment rate is more than 11% and that there are news reports of stalwart restaurants like Aqua losing 80%-90% of its staff, I would be hesitant to recommend anything this far in advance, but I'd hazard to guess that my consistent top five will still be around: Aziza Coi Ame Swan's Oyster Bar Canteen ← Yikes, so does that mean that Aqua shouldn't be considered at this moment?

I think that is a bit more than a one-time attraction. We went last September after a gap of about 3 years and it had changed quite a bit in that time, albeit with a sequence of fairly small changes. Unless it changes more quickly in the future my guess is that a two year gap is probably the minimum for it to be worth going back. Right, like I wrote, "unless it changes - and changes with relative frequency - The Fat Duck tasting menu is pretty much a one-time attraction."

Did the rumor flow with notable resistence, or did you mean "vicious?" All joking aside, I'm setting this post aside for now. It has given me a quick swift in the behind to get me to write up my, even more tardy, report.

The one thing that hasn't changed is the upshot: unless it changes - and changes with relative frequency - The Fat Duck tasting menu is pretty much a one-time attraction. Now that there is no a la carte, this becomes more true than ever.

I'm fairly certain that any confusion has been mostly the result of language barrier issues, as there are essentially no native English speakers on staff there. I'm sure that the tall, blond hostess who gave us this piece of information and who is from Texas would object to your theory.

That's a great photo of Chef Barber.

By the way, does anyone recall the highest masa ever charged for dinner? I seem to recall that, at its peak, it charged $450. However, the hostess said that it was $600. I don't recall it being quite that high.

Would you? I guess I'm saying I had no idea what, exactly, the proper protocol was.

Well, but the problem is that the receipt states: "The 20% service charge is not a gratuity and is not distributed to the service staff but is used to cover the operating and administrative charges." Also, according to Eater, the restaurant notifies customers of this charge upon confirmation. But I never received a confirmation call. I called the restaurant the day before to confirm and no such disclosure was made.

Because I seem to recall reading it somewhere on their website or heard it in their phone recording. I just looked on their website and it seems they've taken the text explaining the $400 price tag off and left only the $200 cancellation policy up. Also, I just called masa, and it seems that the phone recording does say that the price of dinner is $400 plus tax, alcohol and a "20% service charge." I'm almost certain that was not disclosed when I made my reservation.

BTW, Bryan, did anyone at your lunch order a wine pairing? If so, may I ask what the wine pairing for your pork dish was?

I'm the other shoe here. I totally agree. My dinner did not rise to the level of the comedy of errors that I experienced at Bouley a couple of months ago, but it was in the same vein. There were too many careless mistakes. My entire party walked away terribly deflated and disappointed. And I had more courses than you (dinner Farmer's Feast), which meant there was even more repetition in my dinner. I don't need a whole lot of variety, but given the list of nearly a hundred (if not more) ingredients and produce in season that they presented along with the menu, I certainly think that serving asparagus and ramps on more than two or three dishes was certainly a bit uncreative. Actually, the beet and coffee dessert was one of the highlights of this meal for me. The other, being a lamb dish. I'll write up more later.

Caveat emptor.

Before you go, beware: The meal, as I understood it at the time of my reservation, was $400, which included gratuity, but not tax. After my recent dinner, the bill arrived with the $400 tariff, plus tax, alcohol and that "20% Service Charge" that Eater reported about a few weeks ago. Despite questions as to the legality of this issue, masa continues to maintain this charge to "cover operating and administrative expenses." So, your $400 meal at masa is, in fact, $480 plus tax and whatever else you decide to order on top of the omakase, like alcohol or supplements (the night I was there, they were offering a special cut of beef with summer truffles for $120). But, you don't have to stop there, they also leave a line for you to write in an "Optional Tips" if you feel so moved.

And Yasuda is cheaper... though that comparison is a loose one, given that it's really like comparing apples to oranges. Which is what I've said all along: I don't think comparisons here are helpful. FWIW, I just got back from eating at masa. The quality of the fish there is superior to the fish I've had at Yasuda (but Yasuda's rice is still better). But masa is also thrice as expensive as Yasuda.

As for comparing it to other restaurants, it's inevitable given what they're serving. And what is that? Very expensive (over-priced?) food? I'm not sure I see it as a right/wrong issue as much as I just find the comparison utterly worthless and incoherent. What does Achatz's, Ripert's, Vongerichten's, and Chang's food have in common? The only one I can think of is that their food is presented in a "haute" manner and comes at a high tariff. I suppose you could argue that much of it is technically French-based. But then that comparison could go on almost ad infinitum.

Whilst Frank Bruni comes to (largely) the same conclusions as I did about L2O in his recent article in the New York Times, I find his comparisons of the restaurant with le Bernardin, momofuku ko, and Jean Georges confusing and unconvincing. I'm not sure why more than just a few feel the need to analogize this restaurant to another. I'll admit that I don't think Gras's food is unique enough for it to be completely incomparable. But, I don't think that just because Gras shaves frozen foie gras, or features a cauliflower dish makes comparison of Gras's dishes with other famous frozen foie gras and cauliflower dishes (done in completely different ways) remotely worthwhile. Any updates from fellow eGers?

On the current "Spring Awakening" prix fixe at The Modern (dining room), one of the first courses is "Gyromitre Soup with Peas and Herb Salad." Now, perhaps the alteration of one letter might change the game entirely, but, if I'm not mistaken, aren't gyromitr*a* mushrooms toxic? They're the morel look-alikes, no?

This is a long overdue update on Guy Savoy. You can read more and find the photos at the ulterior epicure. Here is what we had: Amuse Bouches Foie Gras “Club Sandwiches” Soupe de Potiron La Truffe Blanche Entrees Bar et Rouget Comme Un “Carpaccio“ Coquillages en bouillon d’agrumes. Coquilles Saint-Jacques “Crues-Cuites“ Pommes de terre et poireaux aux algues. “Radis-Foie” Escalope de foie de canard poelee, puis etuvee en papillote avece des radis roses. Supreme de Volaille de Bresse Foie gras et artichaut, vinaigrette a la truffe. Canons de Legumes Champignons et herbes, bouillon ferme et jus de champignons. Soupe d’Artichaut a la Truffe Noir Lamelles de truffe noir et copeaux de Parmesan, brioche feuilletee aux champignons et buerre de truffe tartine. Plats Principaux Agneau Crostillant-Moelleux A la graine de legumes. Volaille de Bresse Confit et Lacquee Pintade Pochee en Vessie Riz basmati, jus “truffes-foie gras.” (pour 2 personnes) Desserts Poires et Citrons En saveurs d’herbes. “Exotiques” Autour de Coing - Petits Fours Trolley

Better late than never, I hope. Here's an excerpt from my blog post about a meal I had at l'Ambroisie in December, 2008. Photos and (much) more reading can be had at the ulterior epicure. Here is what we had: Amuses Bouches Gougeres Velouté de Butternut First Courses Corolle de noix de Saint-Jacques et broccoli à la truffe blanche d’Alba Oeufs mollets à la Florentine râpée de trufe blanche d’Alba Main Courses Escalopines de Bar à l’émincé d’artichaut, caviar osciètre gold Fricassée de Homard à la Diable châtaignes et potimarron “Gibier français Selon a Chasse” Perdreaux rotis avec truffe noire Pre Dessert Sorbet Menthe Desserts Tarte Fine Sablée au Cacao Amer glace à la vanille - “Assortiment de Desserts et Pâtisseries” Sablée Praliné aux Coings (crème fouettée à la cannelle) Arlettes Caramélisées au Fromage Blanc (crème success) Tarte Fine Sable au Cocao Amer (glace à la vanilla) - Mignardises

Go green - hang some laundry. Fancy that.