ulterior epicure

No, it's not. And neither is telling every table within earshot that the "Farmer's Feast" is a special menu designed just for that table when it's clearly a standard fare for the room at large (VIPs excepted, of course).

In short, yes. But not even in a perfect world would I expect ALL of these items to appear. And given that the list as probably near the century mark, nor would I imagine 30% of them would appear in the course of a seven to eight-course meal. But to serve asparagus course after course when they have (based on what they are advertising to diners) a good variety of produce, seems self-limiting. I think "unimaginative" was the word I used. Really though, like I said, the repetition aside, our meal was plagued by larger issues. Service was uninformed, sloppy, and overall, disjointed. None of the wine pairings seemed quite right - to any of us. And at least one of our dishes was just deficient - and certainly unimaginative - any way you look at it (especially knowing what was supposed to be on that plate).

Well, then, yeah. I would go to that steakhouse. ← And you won't be disappointed if the chef doesn't serve you different cuts? I'm not arguing that BH@SB's produce isn't good. And I'm not saying that showcasing the best of what a restaurant has is a bad thing. But surely, out of the more than one-hundred items they showed us, they could have found a way to showcase more than just one or two. I presume that every product they bothered to list was not only something they grew, but something they were proud to serve. But the redundancy was the least of my concerns on my last trip. The service was surprisingly bad. Edited to add: Eatmywords, your little roast in the pot is adorable.

Is the flank steak farm-raised by the restaurant, of discernably higher quality than that available elsewhere, and guaranteed to be unavailable in two weeks' time? That is what Blue Hill's asparagus provides. ← Sure, for the sake of argument, that flank steak, and all the other steaks in that restaurant, are farm-raised by the restaurateur, discernibly higher quality than what is available elsewhere, and guaranteed to be unavialbalbe in two weeks' time.

No, of course not. I think, my position is more akin to, "Why go to an expensive steakhouse if the chef is going to send out multiple courses of flank steak?"

From your description of the food, I fail to see what repetition you encountered. Dishes served to me at my last meal at BH@SB, in early June, were repetitive. I wouldn't say it it struck me as "sloppy thinking," as much as it struck me as "unimaginative." I think the issue I take with repetition at BH@SB (more than at other restaurants) is that they tantalize and taunt you with a litany - a whole inventory - of the fresh produce they have at their fingertips, most of them, quite unfamiliar and esoteric to the dining public. Why do this and then serve me three or four courses with asparagus, a vegetable I can get at my local, non-organic, wholesale, mass-distributing market? There's nothing wrong with asparagus; in fact, good asparagus is great. But presumably, the types of diners that make the effort to visit BH@SB are looking for a different type of farm experience. It's clear that they can deliver one. So, why don't they? Your meal sounds closer to the apex of BH@SB's capabilities. My recent one was the nadir.

Gosh. Life has gotten busy for me. I just now realized that I never bothered to actually give my version of the story - the story being a meal that I had with Carolyn Tillie and tupac at ubuntu in late May. CLICK HERE to read the entire post with photos.

Gosh, it makes me think about Heaven differently... Reignking, I'm glad to hear you've kept an open mind about this place. Every restaurant has an off day or service. It doesn't make it right for the paying customer who happens to walk in during those times. But, I (and many others here) have had wonderful experiences at ubuntu. I hope you will give it a second try.

MSP? ← MSP = Minneapolis ← Well Minneapolis-St. Paul, to be accurate, and fair.

Yanking back on the number of sweets seems like an awfully strange cost-cutting measure. A reduction in the number of pastry staff members, however, seems like a more likely explanation. In other news, I've noticed that "Terrace at Jean Georges" has been added to the Jean Georges website. I've never noticed it before. But I don't make a habit of checking the website in summer, when the terrace is presumably open for seating. I mean, isn't it really just the outdoor option for Nougatine? The menu seems identical.

August 1.

Robert, I just got back from Vegas, so I won't be there to eat with you. Here is where I ate: Alex Bar Charlie Bouchon Carnevino MESA Grill Joel Robuchon at The Mansion miX Raku You can read a summary of my trip at the ulterior epicure. I'll report more in depth when I catch my breath (and up on sleep). u.e.

What about the service and atmosphere did you find "awful?"

Next year (2010), there will be no Michelin-starred restaurants in Las Vegas. Michelin has just announced that it will suspend publication of the Las Vegas Guide Rouge for 2010 due to the "bad economy." Los Angeles's guide will also be suspended. It plans to resume evaluation of these two cities in 2011. CLICK HERE.

A complimetary article about niche is in this weekend's (July 25/26, 2009) issue of the Wall Street Journal.

I've been enjoying the feed vicariously from my Blackberry. I'm glad to hear that moosnsqrl, Aaron Deacon, and ChefCAG have all worked to welcome you to our humble home in the middlelands. A few notes: 1. I'm hoping to hear more about Lidia's. 2. I'm glad someone got the Smoke n' Choke at Manifesto. Of the drinks I've had there, it's my favorite. (But I am partial to whiskey.) 3. If any of your flew Southwest Airlines and will be returning home by that carrier, there's an article about cocktails inside with recipes. One of them involves the fat washing method mentioned above by Chris Amirault. (There's also a recipe for Ramos Gin Fizz marshmallow that I'm mildly curious to try at home.) 4. Fat Guy and tino27: You do carbs proud. 5. moosnsqrl: Forget "The Food Network Star," try "Top Chef Masters!" :lol: 6. Burnt ends at LC's are the best. It is my favorite of the BBQ joints in KC (though I have a special place in my heart for the pulled pork and slaw sandwich at Oklahoma Joe's). ETA: Is there nothing more to say about bluestem?

For some odd reason, Ledoyen hasn't earned more press among American diners. Maybe, it was the economy stupid, but the dining room was barely half full when I lunched at Ledoyen last December. Seven months late, I'm finally getting around to blogging about that meal - the same one that Julien reported about above. So I figured I'd post a synopsis and photo montage here. (You can read the full review at the ulterior epicure.) I'd like to believe that the real reason Julien had such a good experience was due to the company of my friends and me. But even I'll admit that the food alone was worthy of high praise. Julien and my friend Hue both ordered the 3-course Menu Dejeuner. I can’t blame them – for 88€, it was a fetching deal. My friend Houston and I chose to order our three courses à la carte. I focused mainly on the “Specialites.” It didn’t take much cajoling to get Julien to join me in supplementing an additional course; so, Julien and I had four courses each. Pre Amuses Beet Macaron Passion Fruit and Foie Gras Croquants Herb Croquettes with Liquid Foie Gras Truffle Gelee Balls Bread service here is phenomenal. We were presented with an assortment including mini baguettes, rolls specked with speck, and rounds of brioche coated with sesame. My favorite, by far, were the squid ink-prawn rolls. Resembling large lumps of smooth charcoal, these dusty black rolls tasted somewhat like a Chinese shrimp cracker. The outside shell was quite flaky. The interior was moist. I want the recipe. Does anyone have it? Amuse Bouche Rarely do amuses bouche have staying power. But the Caramelised Onion Purée we had that day was unforgettable. The raisins, which dotted the purée, were barely noticeable, jumping in intermittently only to heighten the sweetness of the smooth, purée caramelized onions. The rosemary ice cream was not sweet at all, but added tremendous depth to the overall flavor. First Course (u.e.) Pâté en Croute de Lievre (59€) It being the season for hare, and hare being a rare treat for me, I could not resist the Pâté en Croute de Lievre. Unfortunately over-salted, the savory tart shell filled with very finely minced hare was otherwise fairly decent. The meat was flavorful and had not a trace of funk or game. The gelée, which crowned the pâté en croute, had a sweet and clean flavor. First Course (Houston) Tartuffi di Alba (135€) Houston’s Tartuffi di Alba became the talk of the table. But it wasn’t the white truffles, unfortunately, that were getting the attention. The underlying bed of gnocchi “légers” were only gnocchi in shape. Texturally, they were like nubbins of spongy meringues. Julien had a choice descriptor for these gnocchi: “snot.” Truth be told, that’s not far off; they did have a slimy, mucous-like texture. But I didn’t find the texture of the gnocchi off-putting. What I found troubling were the white truffle shavings, which had been fanned out to form a canopy over the gnocchi. They were tired and dull, lacking aroma. Also, a surfeit of olive oil overwhelmed the dish, backseating the faint “l’eau de Parmesan” with a fruity, slightly bitter flavor (it was very good olive oil, but there was too much of it). First Course (Julien and Hue) Soufflé d’Oeuf (Menu Dejeuner) This was, perhaps, the best first course at the table (and the cheapest). This warm, airy meringue dome secreted a runny egg yolk. The entire dish smelled like a truffle patch. Second Course (Julien) Jambon Blanc (90€) Julien has aptly described his second course – the “Jambon Blanc” – as a “noodle castle.” Vertically-raised strands of spaghetti fenced in a creamy ham and mushroom filling rife with black truffles. Indeed, the entire “castle” was glazed in a sauce flecked with black truffles and surrounded by a creamy moat. Bold, brash, and rich, this was an exquisite journey into hedonism. Second Course (u.e.) Blanc de Turbot de Ligne (105€) This ingot of alabaster, striped with black truffle purée, rose above a frothy emulsion on a hillock of roughly mashed “ratte” potatoes with a creamy, truffled dressing (think potato salad – but with a truffle flavor). For me, this dish’s success hinged in the texture of the fish. Le Squer clearly understands the nature of turbot. He cooked the fillet just how I like it: soft and barely set on the outside, leaving the inside opaque, warm, and silky. The waxiness and creaminess of those potatoes underfoot was a wonderful accompaniment. It certainly wasn’t mind-blowing, but it did make me yearn to crawl back in the womb in reverie. Maybe I hit Le Squer on a good day. Or maybe my tastes and expectations derogate from the vast majority of those on this board. Third Course (Houston) Grosses Langoustines Brettones (?€) If these were frozen, as some have claimed, I don't think the meat suffered greatly as a result. I didn't dislike it; I didn't love it either. Very succulent and sweet, but otherwise, unremarkable. Admittedly, I only tasted the tail and not the shredded, phyllo-coated langoustine "pom poms." Third Course (Julien) Ris de Veau Rôti aux Salsifis (Menu Dejeuner) This was a generous round of roasted sweetbreads on a raft of silky salsify. It was surrounded by a creamy truffle sauce. Julien pronounced this dish “perfect,” finding it superior to the version of sweetbreads offered on the à la carte as a “Specialite” (which, having an acidic sauce, I had wanted to try). Third Course (Hue) Gratin de Quenelles de Merlan (Menu Dejeuner) Third Course (u.e.) Toasts Brûlés d’Anguille (65 €) Everyone at the table scrunched their noses when I ordered this dish. It sounded wonderful to me. And, for me, it was wonderful. It looked like a fantastic creature you’d find on the other side of the rabbit hole: strips of eel riding on dark, “burnt” toast benches and wearing velvety, purple capes made of reduced red wine. Together with the waxy potato squares with horseradish cream, the combination of flavors and textures were intuitively comforting – hearkening the austere and simple pleasure of smoked eel with potatoes and horseradish – yet capricious and fun. It was, by far, my favorite dish of the meal. Le Première Douceur A coffee gelée pre-dessert that relied solely on a the sweetness from a white chocolate foam. Dark and bitter with the sweetness residing in the creamy element, not in the coffee itself. This dish convinced me that Le Squer operates on my wave length. This pre-dessert was curiously followed by a round of pre-dessert petits fours. Pre-Dessert Petits Fours Cinnamon Tart Pistachio Macaron Coffee Meringue with Coffee Gelee Ile Flottante These weren’t particularly memorable, though I do recall fancying the “Ile Flottante” – a fluffy square of meringue on a stick coated with crème anglaise. *** The pastry chef at Ledoyen has a great taste for flavor, but a penchant for sharp edges. The shell for the “Tarte Rustique” – a crown of spikes – for example, was too hard to cut, and, quite frankly, too dangerous to eat. But the filling of meaty apples with a fragrant cider foam on top, was absolutely one of the most exquisite combination of flavors I’ve ever experienced – it was very floral, and yet, ringed in with a semi-circle of green apple coulis, the tart had a sophisticated and intense apple flavor. Dessert (Houston) Tarte Rustique (29€) Likewise, my “Croquant de Pamplemousse Cuit et Cru,” the only dessert “Specialite,” had excellent flavor. This stacked structure involved grapefruit sorbet layered with suprêmes of grapefruit, interleaved with sugar glass. Dessert (u.e.) Croquant de Pamplemousse Cuit et Cru (29€) The base layer of the “croquant” was formed with a thick pavement of some of the best confiture of grapefruit I’ve ever had – thick, soft, smooth, and delightfully sweet. Sweet, bitter, and sour, it was perfect. Based on this wonderful composition of flavors alone, this dish was certainly deserving of being named a house “specialty.” But the crisp parts of the “croquant” – those sheets of sugar glass – taken at the wrong angle, doubled as razors in the mouth. I don’t see how this dish could be done with puff pastry (the grapefruit sorbet would make the pastry soggy). Dessert (Julien and Hue) Soufflé Chaud Passion et Ananas (Menu Dejeuner) From the Menu Dejeuner, the “Soufflé chaud Passion et Ananas” presented a scoop of soufflé nestled between two wedges of sweet, warm pineapple. Passion fruit sauce radiated out from the center like rays of a sun. Together, it was a warm and wonderful trip to the tropics. A Breton, Chef Le Squer ended our meal with Kouign Amann. Le Squer’s version was atypical in its form, but captured the spirit of the pastry. The cakes were accompanied by caramelized peanuts and caramel squares. Kouign Amann and Caramelized Peanuts Caramels What makes Ledoyen great is not its service. It was friendly, but not particularly indulgent. I didn’t mind. What we did mind was being charged for four bottles of sparkling water that we neither ordered nor were solicited. At 6€ apiece, it was more a point of principal than pettiness. And Ledoyen certainly cannot be accused of coddling with creature comforts. I wouldn’t characterize the restaurant as ugly or uncomfortable by any means. But it could use a polish. Ledoyen is great because of Le Squer’s sensibilities. The food isn’t particularly creative or innovative. But the presentations were engaging, the execution exact, and the flavors were soul-satisfying. Le Squer does not fuss or primp. You won’t find him weaving nuances or constructing dainty jewel boxes like his peer chefs. Though whimsical to behold, eyes closed, his brand of cooking strikes with a heavy dose of normalcy and familiarity. Food aside, I found Chef Le Squer quite charming. He joined us for a brief chat after our lunch. Every bit of the mischief and curiosity displayed in his dishes was evident in his boyish spirit. At the close of my trip to France, whilst waiting to board my flight at CDG, I thumbed an email to a few friends entitled “Rankings are highly subjective…” Based solely on the food, I ranked Ledoyen at the top. Though the others have been shuffled around since, nearly a half a year later, Ledoyen has not moved moved from its position. My experience at Ledoyen didn’t alter my perspective and challenge me the way my meal at l’Arpege did. Nor did it capture my imagination and haunt me the way l’Ambroisie has. But the food at Ledoyen pleased me the most. It was well-executed, delicious, and injected with a sense of childhood adventure and imagination.

I was at Manresa a few weeks after Food Snob. The following is a recap. You can read the whole story and see the pictures at the ulterior epicure.

Thanks moosnsqrl for this report. I have been hearing rumblings of this in the works and am glad it finally came to fruition. I will have to make a point of stopping by soon! I will be happy to take their dessert menu for a test run in your stead.

The sixth season Top Chef cheftestants just announced, and Eve Aranoff of eve restaurant is one of them. CLICK

Any experiences with Noodle No. 9 of late? Recommend? Not recommend?

They're not. It's like a legal disclaimer, which they have to put if they ever take any portion of it for any house-related thing. It's also an accounting thing, as it affects how the restaurant pays tax. ← Yet, somehow, every other restaurant in the country seems to be able to handle this issue in a more transparent way.

Thanks, fyfas. That's very helpful. re: Graham's Grille. I gotta ask: what's the story behind the "JC Penney Burrito?"

I finally sat down and read your entire blog post - One thing that is particularly non-Japanese is Japanese chefs setting up temples to themselves in foreign lands. It's part marketing but as many can attest, some of these guys have bigger egos than Ichiro. Some of the very best chefs in Japan you will find tucked away behind nondescript sushi and dining bars. But hey, for Nobu, Masa, Naohiro, it's their piece of the American dream. And we're all subsidizing that! All they have to be is the best, or at least slightly better than the other up-and-comers. I don't doubt that. But when the egos become palpable in the diner's seat... Indeed, the green tea was all I needed and drank with the sushi part of the meal. But the sake's minerality guided me through the more aggressively-flavored "Appetizers" (strange nomenclature, don't you think?) wonderfully. Right, right. Palate contraction notwithstanding, "one plate" deconstructed over the course of an hour plus not only makes you focus on each component.

Nope, the price of the meal has been lowered, most recently from $450, to $400. I'm not sure the baseline price was ever at $500, though the hostess seemed to be under that impression. ← I'm pretty sure $450 was the peak for the regular prix fixe in NY. ← That is my understanding as well. And I won't be surprised to see that price go back up when the colder months set in, or the economy gets some lubrication - whichever happens first. (Hopefully, it's the latter.)