BonVivant

Store-bought dumplings Rice noodles, smoked tofu, mushrooms.

Cuttlefish ink pasta with octopus and beetroot Pasta with creamy fresh roe. Green bits are seaweed.

Crispy fried Speck and Brussels with some cream mixed in. Mozzarella In La Paz, after swimming with whale sharks.

Happy to eat my own food again. Split peas Paste made from sun-dried tomatoes In La Paz. Fried fish with garlic. Mixed aguachile (octopus, scallops, prawns) Supermarkets have it sometimes (I'm in Europe). I don't normally make photos of wine... here is a cheap silvaner.

At home In Loreto: Fresh roe cooked sous vide.

Super creamy fresh roe with morels. And Franconian Silvaner is the other half of dinner. In Loreto Brought more yellowtail I caught to another restaurant to be cooked. The meal was shared with my guest house owners again. Soupy Veracruz-style. Only aguachile does the yellowtail justice.

SV roe. Iberico Schmalz is invisible underneath, it goes so well with the roe and super dense seedy rye bread. The bread slicer at the bakery must be incredibly sharp and I'm thankful for that because there's no way I would want to slice it myself at home. Aguachile on another day, with red sauce, at my favourite restaurant in Loreto. But I could eat aguachile twice a day. Maybe. I shall try that next time. The rest of this piece of fish I caught cooked "a la plancha" for tacos. Another meal earlier...

Made my fishing dream come true! The partner and I caught 3 big yellowtail in Loreto. Each weighs about 10kg. Took half of one fish to a restaurant nearby and got it cooked. We shared the meal with the guest house owners. The four of us couldn't even finish it all, it was really a lot. A day without clams is a sad day

Prawn aguachile. Best I've had thus far.

Two more meals: "Cocina economica" kind of local place, in my neighbourhood. Thanks, @Dejah. I have 2 days left to enjoy the fresh and cheap seafood.

On the beach by the sea (of Cortez) I forgot the name of this but it's not ceviche. Better. Steamed fish with poblano pepper Then back to my favourite restaurant for more fresh clams

At 2 different places: Now at my favourite restaurant in Loreto. The only place in town that has fresh local chocolata clams almost every day. Steamed to perfection. --- KimS: thanks! Good seafood tacos are pretty "normal" in Baja Sur. Down to my last 3 days to enjoy them.

Back in sunny and warm Loreto after an incredible week of whale watching in Bahia Magdalena. Scallop and prawn tacos first. This restaurant has 2 versions of "aguachile", red and green. I've had both. Red is good, green is besssssssst!

Tortillas are served with almost everything. Roasted and stuffed with vegs A vast majority of guests are Americans (and Canadians). The sauces are for them. I only eat the salsas they make daily.

Nothing fancy this time but everything is always freshly made by the kitchen staff, a family-run hotel-restaurant-whale watching business who aims to honour tradition. I saw the family ate the same food that came from the restaurant's kitchen every day. Kitchen and wood-fired pit

Sopes are fried corn cakes. Quesadillas with sautéed vegs I'm back in Loreto now and have twice eaten at the restaurant where they have smokey salsa. They said the smoked serrano chillies are briefly roasted (over an open flame) then pureed together with tomatoes and onions, and some habanero chillies as well.

Prawns 2 ways: "Aguachile". A spicy version of ceviche but a lot more raw. With fresh corn tortillas Habanero-pineapple salsa again. I like it so much I simply dip warm, freshly made corn tortillas in it.

Baja-style enchiladas. Red sauce is a bit salty but the fresh tortillas are good. Chocolata clam ceviche. I'm partial to shellfish and approve of this. There are 5 sauces, shown here are 3 of them. The habanero with pineapple is best, to me.

First lunch in Bahia Magdalena. Beans with chipotle and cheese Beans and rice, fresh tortillas in woven basket. A granny makes tortillas to order, cooks them on a big metal sheet above an open fire. Beautiful palapa/palm leaf thatched roof

More beans, peppers and rice. Loreto is pleasant, has lots of food options. Local are chill and courteous. Has both mountains and sea, and is very popular with Canadian and American pensioners, middle-aged tourists, snowbirds (temporary residents) etc.

The homemade tortillas here are massive, the size of a wheel. The cooks are women and they cook with woods. The dark chilli paste again It's dark inside and the photo is blurry but you can kind of see the green stuff which is cactus. Giant homemade tortilla filled with flank steak cooked over an open fire Yes. Still cheap. Everything only gets more expensive after Guerrero Negro. I haven't seen many carnitas places so far. The wet/stewed beef and offal tacos are more common. Fish/prawn/scallop/octopus tacos are king.

A little fish taco feast at this simple and clean restaurant near my lodging. Whole fish, bones removed. Guessing pureed rehydrated dried (smoked) chillies with something added to form a paste. I've read sometimes finely ground tortilla chips are used. I wanted to ask for myself but forgot. I will when I get back to Loreto.

This is the first lunch I'll eat when I return to Loreto in 4 days time. Sauce for the clams And earlier...

At a simple place. All 4 different tacos. Private hummingbird feeder in the garden in front of my room.

Happy to leave windy, mozzi-infested San Ignacio. Too windy for whale watching and I didn't want to hang around waiting to hear if they'd go the next day or not. Maybe next time. Nature owns me nothing. Hopped on the bus the next moring to Loreto. Shell is very thick and heavy. Almejas chocolatas are a typical clam in Baja Sur. A quick break somewhere between San Ignacio and Loreto And some hoppy beers, finally! Amateurish but I'll take it! Si. In Bahia Magdelena this moment.