rich

Steve, it has nothing to do with reviewing the restaurant, though covering yet another average NYC steakhouse is worthless. (I think he's done three in the last few months). It just proves he lacks any type of journalistic sense or timing. What is irrational is the manner in which the Times covered it - front page position, two abosolutely silly photos and three National Enquirer type headlines. There's no defending that by the publication that wants to known as the "paper of record." If they want to be the National Enquirer or the New York Post, then sell the paper in supermarket check-out stands or change the format from newspaper to tabloid. The problem is the manner of coverage Steve - that should be obvious to any serious/reputable journalist.

Mark the date - 2/28/07 - the day the NY Times offcially became a "rag." It's been coming a long time, but this is the day the Times has finally reached the summit. It has now become the tabloid of newspapers, the page 6 of serious journalism and the rag that prints all the garbage it can find in the trash. It's bad enough for the restaurant reviewer to devote "another" precious (and entire) column to yet "another" NYC steak house, but for the editorial staff to place the review on page one (which used to be the sacred ground of the 4-stars) borders on hypocrisy at best, and the "dumbing down" of the paper at worst. Along with two gratuitous photos, it prints a headline and sub headline worthy of the National Enquirer. It has taken the NY Times more than 150 years to reach this pinnacle of success, and it has achieved it with a flourish. There is no more defending the Times or its chief restaurant critic. The debate is over. There's no more reason to debate the merits of Chodorow's ad, the NY Times has proven him correct. Only the Times could have snatched such a defeat from the jaws of victory. 2/28/07 - a day that will go down in infamy. RIP NY Times - we once loved you.

While we're taking exception to points, I'd like to point out my disagreement with this last one: This is the kind of nose-thumbing closing of ranks I've always found distasteful in reviewers of all stripes. No, in fact, the press do not always have the last word. If that were true, then the highly-reviewed restaurants and movies and musicals and novels (etc.) would be the ones to succeed while the lower-reviewed ones failed. Needless to say, this is not, nor has it ever been the case. All too frequently, it is exactly the opposite. If Kobe Club maintains reasonably good profitability for a reasonably long lifespan for this type of restaurant, Frank Bruni will not have had the last word. ← The fourth estate believes it's the first, second and third estate as well. At times the press becomes much too full of itself. Excellent point Sam. The public untimately decides the success or failure of just about anything. Just ask Gene Rodenberry who created Star Trek, ask the producers of Cats, ask the restauranteurs who opened Tavern on the Green or The Water Club, ask the sportsmen who wanted to build a stadium in Manhattan (okay, they were right about that), ask the Wright Brothers (the critics were wrong about that), ask the people who built a city in the Nevada desert, ask the people who thought sound was a good idea for movies, ask the manufacturers who came up with the idea to build a mechanized wagon (or better yet, ask the horses) and finally ask the men who gathered in Philadelphia during the summer of 1776 to create a new form of government. Unfortunately, Mimi's article and especially her conclusion was a bit disingenuous.

If the stars are ignored and the reviews stand on merit, then this conversation is moot. I know Marc, you think the stars are important because it's a way to rank things (and we as a society like to rank - just look at basketball and football polls). But at this stage of the game (2007) do we really need anyone to tell us this place gets three, the one down the block is two and the one around the corner is 2 3/4? It's all so subjective. Write the review, let the people read it and enjoy the food. What more does anyone really need? The theater isn't ranked by stars, it just creates them. Let restaurants do the same.

Yes, the Otto list has a large number, but with a few exceptions the under $60 choices are either overpriced or of lesser vintage - in my opinion. And it's certainly just my perspective - nothing to really debate. I understand and respect your point. I compare the Morandi program to the Landmarc program, though the latter offers wines from around the world.

Well, c'mon Rich, give it up. ← The secret is in the sauce, which is laced with fresh-anchovy paste and the emphasis is fresh - which are difficult to find at times. I will look up the recipe and post it sometime this week.

Nathan, I respectfully will offer a different viewpoint on that. While the lists at both places and Babbo and Felidia may offer more high-end choices, the Morandi list is the more comprehensive "affordable" list. It's difficult to find something drinkable on those other lists below $60 - and if you do the choices are limited. I never judge any list on how many vintages of Chateau Petrus are availbale, but more on how many Chateau Gloria-types there are. Please excuse the French example, but I thought people would understand that analogy best.

The fried artichokes are probably one dish I wouldn't order there or any other Italian because the version I make at home (from my family's recipe file dating back to the mid 1800's near Bari) are better than anything I've tasted in restaurants.

You're correct Robert, I forgot to mention that in the review. My wife and I shared the hodge-podge for an appetizer. It was top-notch - creamy, piping hot and full-flavored.

I phoned somewhere between 11:30am - noon on Friday, possibly a little later. Don't recall specifically.

I think she's brought her talent to a new level. I enjoyed Gusto, but not nearly as much as Morandi. It's interesting the majority of my favorite NYC restaurants have female chefs. For some reason they seem to be able to do more with less.

It's delightful that Yogi Berra gets quoted on eG more than any other non-food related person (though he did own a major share of Yoo Hoo at one time). In fact, he may be quoted more than any other person in general these days - and that's a very good thing. ← Of course, Yogi didn't say most of the things he said. ← It's something we have in common - I don't say most of things I say.

It's delightful that Yogi Berra gets quoted on eG more than any other non-food related person (though he did own a major share of Yoo Hoo at one time). In fact, he may be quoted more than any other person in general these days - and that's a very good thing.

I don't think the problem (and I do believe it is a problem for the NY Times) is that new either Marc. But I do think the NY Times, for whatever their illogical, ostrich mentality reasoning, has refused to address it. ← But Rich, you said, "the current star system doesn't work for the types of restaurants that now exist" [emphasis added] implying there was a time when conditions were different, and the system did work. When, in your view, was that time? ← I can't give you an exact date Marc because I don't think one exists. It's been an on-going process as most things are. If I may use a baseball analogy - each year and sometimes during a season, the good players adjust to what's going on around them. Sometimes a hitter must adjust if he sees pitchers are coming at him in a ceratin way. Likewise pitchers adjust if they notice hitters taking advantage of some aspect of their style. When Claiborne created the NY Times star system in the mid 60's (1964 I think), the NYC restaurant scene was totally different than it is today. But the NY Times has failed to "adjust" to the changing landscape. I used the term "now" in my first post because I'm talking about the present, but I didn't mean to indicate this is something that just occurred with the Times. A good editorial staff should never be stagnant. I my opinion, the NY Times restaurant reviews, with speficic reference to the star system, have remained buried within the last several decades of the 20th century.

This problem (if it is a problem at all) isn't new. Mimi Sheraton awarded three stars to Sammy's Roumanian. Ruth Reichl awarded three stars to Honmura An. Both establishments were really not comparable to "traditional" three-star restaurants. ← I don't think the problem (and I do believe it is a problem for the NY Times) is that new either Marc. But I do think the NY Times, for whatever their illogical, ostrich mentality reasoning, has refused to address it.

While on the phone yesterday attempting to secure a reservation next week for myself, Mrs. S., and a fellow eG'er, I was told they had a table available last night for two at 7pm - I snagged it. Arrived at 6:50pm and was immediately seated. The place was just about full and the bar area was already two deep. The menus came as well as a wine list and I was immediately impressed by both. One of the finest selections of Italian wines ever assembled. I very rarely order white wine (especially Italian whites), but there was a 1999 Golfo from Liguria that could be had at $40 - I couldn't and wouldn't let that opportunity pass. Great wine, great price and perfect for what my wife and I intended to order (for the most part). We began with an order of Sicilian meatballs (there were five). The best tasting version I've ever tasted this side of my great aunt's home in Brooklyn (there's that dirty word again). Fried to the point of an almost-burned crust and served in a marinara sauce that would knock your shoes off and leave your socks happy. Next came an order of fresh mozzarrella with roasted peppers. Some of the best mozzarella ever. I asked the waiter if it was made in-house. He wasn't sure. Skate in Soar sauce followed - a very large appetizer portion. The fish was moist, perfectly prepared with a slight crust and the sauce was outstanding. After that, we split the Friday special of Fried Baccala. Served with french fries it was the Italian version of fish & chips, but so much better. The batter was light, crisp and the fish was moist and full. The aioli served with the chips was also used on the fish. It reminded me of the fries served with mussels at Landmarc. Truly a remarkable dish. We finished with the incredible cheese plate and ordered a glass of Alba and Sangiovese. There were four cheeses with the Reggiano and Tallegio being the standouts. It came with a roasted ciopllini and poached peaches. A perfect way to end a meal. The bill came to under $190 with tax and tip - a steal by any NYC standard for this type of meal. Morandi is scary. If it's this good on its third night, how much better can it get? It's already on par with the best NYC "real" Italian (Sapori d'Ischia) and much better (foodwise) than Del Posto, Babbo, Felidia, A Voce. L'Impero, etc. This is real down to earth Italian cooking at its finest. If you want frills, marble floors, flowing drapes, live piano playing, this place is not for you. If you want a taste of what Italian food is all about, then sprint, don't run or walk to Morandi. There were a few problems. Service as somewhat slow, but that's totally understandable for Day 3. The room (divided into three parts) is quite noisy and the tables are close, but that makes for great conversation with the tables around you. When we left at 9:15pm, Morandi was completely full and the bar was about seven deep. This is a restaurant for the ages - it will be around for the next 30-40 years. And if I can secure the reservations I will be there next week with a fellow eG'er and on April 13th with my brothers for our mom's 79th birthday - she'll think her mother was cooking.

The whole conversation is interesting, but what it comes down to is not a problem with reviews or savviness. It's the fact that the current star sytem doesn't work for the types of restaurants that now exist. I hate myself for saying this again, but for the last five years very few people (thank you SE) have agreed with me. Maybe the thinking is starting to turn - maybe??????

My guess is that if it's on the menu as a special it's not going to taste like cardboard, which alone might be reason enough to try it. As for a dish never meant to be a delicacy, I think one could say that's the story for many foods we enjoy. Take, for example, any offal dish, or dried/cured meats and fishes. Fermented bean pastes, pickled vegetables, even sushi. ← I understand all that, I'm just trying to determine the fascination with it. I think it will taste like cardboard no matter who makes it - maybe it's the name. If you didn't know what it was, the name makes it sounds terrific. Guess I'm just not a fan of boiled meats (including flanken SE) - enjoy some texture and not just flab.

I agree they serve it in Italy SE, I just wonder why? Maybe it's just one of those comfort-type food things that has become fashionable. I'd much rather eat brisket, corned beef or pastrami than Bollito Misto.

I would like to ask about the fascination with Bollito Misto? My grandmother made it and I thought it was terrible. Meat placed in warm warm water with a few herbs and spices and allowed to sit for hours. It tastes like cardboard without the corrugation (ie no texture). That restaurants serve this is strange. My grandmother said they did this in Italy with tough old meat that couldn't be prepared/served any other way. It was never meant to be a delicacy - at least as far as I can tell.

I know I've traveled into Brooklyn to eat a few times. And I've even been known to travel as far as the UWS for meal - strange as that sounds. Once I went to Tarrytown - after I renewed my passport of course. If you live in LA, I think your only recourse would be to fly to SF or take the red eye to NY.

Imagine if you lived on Staten Island - or worse LA.

American Express Centurion had an ad from Keller once about this...the answer? $25K ← Wait a minute, I know I can cook 1/25 as well as Keller. So if anyone wants to give me $1,000, I'll cook for them.

Aqueduct and Belmont, too?? ← Well Aqueduct is annoying now because that's where their racing, but Belmont Park is too beautiful to ever be considered annoying - especially after a horse had to be destroyed yesterday because the trailer floor broke through and dragged its hoof for a few miles. Just to note Belmont Park was voted to have the best New York sports arena food last year.