BryanZ

Leonard Kim, you are amazing. Anyway, watched the entirety of NIC this weekend. It was good. I quite enjoyed. The quality of the cooking was light years ahead of anything else that's on FN (with the exception of ICA itself, of course). I also appreciated the wide variety of challenges. It speaks volumes that Chef Symon was first intimidated by cooking sous vide but then ends up using it in the final battle. Loved seeing Wylie there too. Perhaps the best part, however, was the complete lack of drama between the chefs. That the producers attempted to edit in sabotage and the like is fine. I was impressed with the camraderie between the chefs. Really, this series was the best thing FN has put out in a very long time.

Maybe I got more caviar. It's not out of the question, but I thought that pairing was actually my favorite of the night. I do agree, however, that the chocolate seemed a bit discordant. Perhaps a grating of chocolate would've been better. To me the chocolate component was what overwhelmed the dish. I kind of went at it separately--ice cream and caviar, ice cream and chocolate. The earl grey sorbet is so nice and subtle. Will said he prefers to bring out all the drinks at once. It lets you try them across the board and mix things up. If this was fine-dining I would say it's just way too much to put down at once. Given the casual, somewhat experimental nature of the place I liked being able to try everything. Picnick is closed for now, I believe, but will reopen in the spring under Chef Goldfarb again.

They may be available only at the bar. I'm not sure about that. I can't imagine he would stop you from eating on the couches after the retail shop had closed. I tried to make reservations by emailing the Michel Cluizel retail address. That got forwarded to the gentleman in charge of Goldfarb's operation. We exchanged emails to the effect of: BZ: I want to come. When can we do this, how can I make it happen? RP: We're open on days XYZ, hours 123. BZ: OK, let me make a reso. RP: We don't take resos but should be able to accommodate you. BZ: I don't deal well with not having plans and waiting around if it's crowded. I <3 Will. RP: Sorry, we'll do our best. BZ: Ok, thanks. I will be there. Long story short, no reservations, lots of short emails. It was not crowded when I arrived By the time I left, the bar was almost full, but, as I said, it was all friends and family, so I'm not sure the vibe was typical of nights in the future.

I went here in like 2004 with a big group of friends. It's what you expect, which means not very good but also not terrible. The space is kind of cool, kind of. Not much more to say.

For those not familiar with the shop's layout, there is a bar that serves coffee, chocolates brownies, and, now, Chef Goldfarb's desserts. There are also couches where, I imagine, one can order the same things. It seemed on this night all the action was at the bar. There was a party of ladies at the couches, but I'm not even sure if they were eating desserts. I must admit I did not know what grokking was until I looked it up, but I would say all the patrons were digging the concept. This was a very intimate evening and pretty much everyone in the restaurant knew Will at least as well as I did, so introductions were made across the board (staff, diners, support staff). Again, I doubt this vibe will continue indefinitely, but it was cool. I chatted a bit with the pastry cook, Bob, who was doing the actual plating of the items, and Chef Goldfarb's publicist-type person, so in that regard it was a very convivial and easygoing evening. It's important to qualify again, however, that these desserts are not as ambitious as those at R4D, so patrons looking for the same culinary experience may be somewhat confused. ETA: ARE NOT not ARE

The always amiable Sultan of Sweet, Prince and Golden Boy of Pastry Will Goldfarb has set up shop at Michel Cluizel, operating at the shop's small bar. For all the of the press that seems to surround Goldfarb's every move, there have been surprisingly few reports of his pastry work by the general public in recent months. I've always been a fan of Chef Goldfarb's philosophy and creative spirit, but it had been quite some time since my visit to Room 4 Dessert at least a year ago. When I heard that Chef Goldfarb would be offering some of his work at Michel Cluizel, I cleared my calendar to make sure I would be able to stop by, going so far as choosing a restaurant for dinner whose desserts I would find unenticing enough to skip entirely. Chef Goldfarb is cooking, hosting, and serving at small bar of about eight seats inside Michel Cluizel. To get to the bar after the shop's retail hours, one must walk through the functioning dining room of Restaurant Lucy. I found this to be a little bit awkward, but once inside what I will call Goldfarbia the entire vibe changes. I've known Chef Goldfarb through correspondence of various types and the occasional meeting over the past couple years, so while we've interacted we're not quite close friends. Nevertheless, upon entering Chef Goldfarb gave me a warm welcome and proceeded to walk me through his entire operation. Not only the nuts and bolts of where to sit, how and what to order, etc, but also his future goals for the dessert program at this location and his culinary motivation and philosophy behind the dishes on the menu. Not sure what to expect upon walking into the shop, I was perhaps expecting a busy restaurant, where Goldfarb would be working the room and catering exclusively to VIPs and friends. I instead found an intimate space where Goldfarb chatted easily with staff and guests alike. This was exactly what I had wanted and hope it maintains its charm. Desserts are served in European sundae-style metal dishes. Think short, sleek metal martini glass. Each item is $9 (but Goldfarb mentioned he would try to bring these prices down in an attempt to maximize their commercial appeal), with total of five possible selections. There is also a $29 tasting menu that includes each of the desserts. Beverage pairings are $21. My companion and I decided to share a tasting and beverage pairing and were very pleased with what we received. As Goldfarb admits, much of the work here is not so complex as at Room 4 Dessert, but there are twists that set this work apart from that of other pastry chefs at other restaurants and dessert bars. Things open big with a simple vanilla ice cream with osetra caviar and dark chocolate. The flavor profile here is striking. I found the vanilla and caviar to be a most excellent match, especially when paired with sparkling wine. Other items included a white chocolate ice cream with a generous splash of Manni olive oil, a financier with apricot, a chocolate chantilly with earl grey sorbet and grapefruit, and a chocolate foam with espresso gelee and frothed milk. Some combinations were more complex and successful than others, but there is a clear trajectory of courses here that works quite well. The beverage pairings across the board were very strong and diverse. I am personally less familiar with dessert/beverage pairing, and I was very impressed, perhaps even more so than by the desserts themselves. The whole evening felt like a friends and family event (literally) with industry friends and family coming by to join us during our time at the bar. Of course, such things are not likely to remain the course as Goldfarb takes on new projects or as word spreads, but for the time being this was a most unique dessert destination. The items are also served during the shop's retail hours, and, if all goes according to the grand plan, much as one might purchase a latte while perusing the wide assortment of chocolates, one might also purchase a small dessert or an entire box to take home for a party. Go and check it out. I'm not sure everyone will love it, as it's still in its infancy, but it certainly was exactly what I was looking for. The tasting menu and pairings are a great value and certainly enough to share.

Had dinner at Allen & Delancey this evening, after PDT and before the Goldfarbian experience at Michel Cluizel. Stuck between these most distinctive of gustatory experiences, A&D was perhaps bound to be overshadowed when directly compared. Still, this is a cool, sexy restaurant with very solid cooking. I don't really dine in this type of restaurant--trendy, dark, loud, candles, faux chic, relatively simple food--but I liked Chef Ferguson's cooking at Gordon Ramsay at The London, so I wanted to give this a try. All in all, the space and decor work very well. Again, not exactly my typical dining location (and, if pressed, I'd say I prefer Tailor's cleaner take on vintage chic). The tables are somewhat close to one another, but it builds a vibe that's generally convivial and festive. It's like a big farmhouse in the city. Started off with an Autumnation cocktail. After PDT, this was bound to fall short, but I enjoyed it. Not advertisted on the menu, this was a warm cocktail, so I was taken aback when I first grabbed the glass it was served in. It was quite cold on our walk down 1st Ave., so this temperature surprise was welcome even if the cocktail lacked some complexity. It was fundamentally rum and good spiced pear cider. No better, no worse. For starters we selected the bone marrow and the terrine. It appears the marrow presentation has changed. The marrow has been removed entirely from the bone and is topped with the caviar (as opposed to being served side by side). The salinity from the caviar worked well, and I thought this was a refined take on a rustic dish. My companion, something of an Anglophile, preferred the definitive version at London's St. John, but still saw the merit in this dish. The portion was perhaps a bit small, however; I would've preferred more marrow and less caviar in this value proposition. The terrine was also quite delicious and more refined than one might expect. Again, not as meaty or soulful as a traditional terrine, but I appreciated the flavor and textural differences across the layers. Very nice. Mains were delivered but delivered incorrectly. We had ordered the beef, cabbage, and onion dish and the duck dish. Perhaps our server misunderstood me over the slight din, but we received the pork. Not really paying attention, I took a bite, and it was quite good. But because I had really wanted to try the duck, I requested my original choice be brought out. The mix-up was handled smoothly and relatively quickly but still threw off the pace of the meal. By the time the replacement duck was brought out, we had already finished most our beef and the remaining portion had grown quite cold. Not optimal, but such is the territory of a misunderstood order. Both the duck (and its accompanying slice of foie) and beef were superlatively meaty. This is assertive cooking with just a whisper of a light touch. The beef, especially the braised beef wrapped in cabbage component, was a bit bland, but did allow for the beef's natural flavor to come through. I'm not sure if this was on purpose or not. All in all, a solid dining experience. Culinarily, probably on the border of one and two stars. Dining at one of the recessed banquets could definitely make the experience and push the restaurant into the definite two star range. I really liked the food but perhaps missed a bit of the balance between heartiness and lightness Chef Ferguson featured at GR. Here, the emphasis, with good reason, is on the former, and the result is largely successful, if not exactly to my preference.

Vastly expanded cocktail menu indeed. PDT has really come into its own based on another visit I paid this evening. With all the recent press about speakeasies and secret bars, some of the hipster douchebag set (to which I generally subscribe) have called PDT and the cocktail renaissance over. Looking for something newer and hipper and to escape the encroach of the B&T (to whom I am geographically bound), there seems to be vacuum in the "next big thing" of downtown nightlife. To these trendoid haters, I say good riddance. PDT is still putting out my favorite cocktails in the city. On this chilly evening my companion and I sampled the Apricot Flip, an Old Fashioned made with anjeo tequilla and mezcal, the Silk Road, and the gin-concord grape drink (the Paul's Club, I believe). All these drinks were delicious and complex and layered. Sometimes smoky, sometimes sweet, sometimes sour, sometimes bitter; a world of flavors and aromas. Really, not even a merely "good" drink in the bunch, all had their merits. I sat at the bar this time and arrived shortly after opening before a dinner reservation for later. The space had filled by the time I left after 7 and I imagine would remain so for the rest of the evening. I also had the opportunity to sample two dogs, the Chang Dog and John John Deragon Dog. Both were quite excellent. Chatted with John for a few seconds as he was hanging around, and Jim Meehan was in house which, if you're into the cocktail thing, is kind of a big deal, I suppose. The place has really expanded its drink selection and the quality is just as good, if not better than ever. A wonderful start to an evening.

I partook in an autumnal tasting menu at Daniel tonight. All in all, this is a restaurant to respect but not one to lust or pine after. gaf said it best when he summed up his experience in the following fashion: As I predicted, many of the dishes were extremely delicious, but I simply did not take away much from the meal. It progressed exactly the way I imagined it would. Service was technically very proficient if a bit formal and removed (as suits the room). Each course put its central ingredient front and center with well-conceived accompaniments to play up that main player's most distinctive traits. Foie was paired with a port reduction and quince, seared tuna with a spiced cumin-based rub and bitter grilled radicchio, a duo of beef with a deep red wine jus. In many ways I could see that this was the New York cuisine of Frenchman Chef Boulud. In other ways, however, this was also just exemplary "restaurant food" that lacked personality or freshness (in the philosophical sense). The best dishes were, in fact, the simplest ones, expertly prepared. Not exactly what one looks for in a blowout fine-dining experience. A roasted scallop with braised and crispy savoy cabbage, porcini ravioli with a parsley sauce, the signature seabass with a simple potato crust. I see restaurants like Daniel and Aureole and Charlie Trotter's and The Inn at Little Washington (and to a lesser extent Per Se) of an older guard than the Eleven Madison Parks of the world that are now putting their mark on the present state of American-French-International cuisine. A restaurant like Jean Georges, for me, somewhat skirts the line between the two camps. On the topic of comparisons, we were split as to whether this meal was better than a tasting menu at Picholine several months ago. While Daniel is undeniably the better restaurant overall, I found the cooking stylistically quite similar, with the edge going to Picholine in creativity. And I still find the work of chefs like Daniel Humm and Gabriel Kreuther to be more relevant, if not as important, to the current state of American fine dining. By now this report sounds more like a reflection on the state of restaurants than a review of a meal, but I think a restaurant as significant as Daniel will always be a flag bearer for all its peers. This was a meal without technical fault but, again, one that failed to move me. I've come to a point, as jaded as this sounds, where I'd rather save my fine-dining dollars for truly unique meals. Alinea, Guy Savoy in Las Vegas, and meals earlier this year in Paris and Barcelona come to mind. Otherwise, I'm happy to eat at the likes of Tailor or wd~50 or Momo Ssam where, even with obvious shortcomings, there is more to take away from a meal.

I guess when I put it in my mouth, all together, it tasted exactly like a classic. If that's the goal, then it's a home run, but since each part is so good on its own, I just wanted a little bit more from the full package.

In other news, the predicted one star for Tailor finally arrives.

Just your luck, I'm going tonight with the fam and will report back. I'm somewhat worried about this meal because I'm sure it will be very good, but this type of fine-dining doesn't so much move me anymore, especially given the price. We will see.

Back in town for the holiday, I stepped off the plane, into a car, and headed to Momo Ssam. Tried a bunch of the newer dishes along with some classics. Loved the uni and the banh mi, as I have in the past. The uni has been written about at length, but it's really one of those dishes that's at once discordant yet so good. The banh mi was hotter tonight than on previous occasions, so it was rather oozy. Perhaps a bit heavy on the mayo this time around, but really a great sandwich. The squid salad was nice, if somewhat similar to any cold seafood salad one can get at a good Sichuan restaurant. The quality of the squid was quite high (if the overall spice level was quite low), and I particularly liked the smoky notes the tentacles picked up. The apple kimchee was pretty killer. Much like the uni, it's a study of contrasts in texture and flavor. Totally dug the maple labne, as it gave the dish some roundness and elegance. The crispy pork head torchon is an unctuous, heavy dish. Perhaps slightly bland on its own, the accompaniments of azuki beans, collards, bacon, and mustard gravy bring both depth and unexpected excitement to the dish. It's essentially two hefty pucks of fried pork fat and head meat and very easy to share. Tried both of the desserts and very much enjoyed them. The cheddar shortcake with ham cream borders on unsettling, but I'm into that kind of thing so I very much enjoyed it. I saw a couple orders go half-eaten, so I'm not sure it's for everyone. It's also a very rich, very savory dessert. The grape/peanut butter/saltine dessert is quite clever in its use of salinity in an unconventional way. I felt the dish as a whole actually fell a bit short of its individual components, however, as I enjoyed it more when sampling the jelly, cookie, and ice cream separately. Each is a great example within its class, but the dish's holistic flavor profile lacked a little bit of punch or uniqueness. All in all, a great and surprisingly creative meal. As nearly everyone else says, you really can't go wrong with this place.

You would be surprised...

Ramen? Can I come?

Bruni brings out the big guns today. Hell, he levels this restaurant with bazooka-like force. This was worse than the Ninja review. ETA: Is this Bruni's first "Poor"?

Almost as enticing as your picture of Catherine McNeil.

If we assume the food is worth it (certainly debatable based on recent reports), are the space and service?

My meal at Guy Savoy was as good or better than any 3-star meal I've had in NYC or Paris. So, while I haven't been to Robuchon, it does seem like an omission. I also don't buy that Picasso is a 2-star restaurant. To me, it embodies a 1-star restaurant, very good within its class--an intro. of sorts--but not exceptional, or rather it lacks any truly distinctive attributes aside from the art.

TK does have a book in the works with Michael Ruhlman. If I understand correctly this project has been in the works for quite a while. Ideas in Food has done something very similar to this, which was then repeated at testkitchen.typepad.com. The whole ballotine is an attractive idea--one that I may try this year--but nathanm brings up fair points as to the variable ideal temperatures for each part of the bird. Also, the Ideas in Food application requires pretty extensive used of TG to create one solid brick of meat.

I'm afraid that's not true. Please explain how this is possible if the heat that works its way through the protein being cooked is at a higher temperature than the desired core temperature. Of course, there is merit to a traditionally cooked piece of protein, but the results are fundamentally different.

That's a pretty epic post. I would contend that you "missed" Avec, my personal favorite of Chicago's casual joints, but you did Chi-town proud.

Naturally, I'm wrong. The deuce for Pamplona.

This is an interesting review for a few reasons. First, as other have mentioned, Bruni has stated a strong liking for Chef Urena's cooking, perhaps more so than any other major critic. He also tends to like casual, honest dining. Pamplona has obviously moved in that direction. With that said, the reviews many of us have read have been mixed, suggesting that this could be a two Bruni star restaurant at times but is perhaps not consistent (across the menu and over time) enough to justify the deuce. Of course there's the super outside theoretical that Bruni will pull a Bar Room, but the Pamplona objectively lacks the Bar Room's panache/trappings and doesn't have what some may call the USHG curve (much like the somewhat systematic Brooklyn or Italian curves/biases that Bruni also demonstrates). oakapple, I read your calls every week and I usually agree with them, but this time I think one star has to be the way to go.

Eleven Madison Park