Jump to content

eje

eGullet Society staff emeritus
  • Posts

    4,361
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by eje

  1. Yes, he brought a still. Medium size copper alembic. Pretty cool, though probably illegal, eh? Surprised the revenuers didn't break up the set! He threw a bunch of chopped whole mango into the still along with some pureed mango and vodka, then re-distilled.
  2. Ah, so it was really just a quick vodka infusion? ← No, it was re-distilled flavored vodka. I'm just being a stickler. Eau de Vies are usually made by fermenting some sort of fruit juice and distilling the "wine" which is a product of that fermentation. It's true, there are some that are made by infusing fruit in neutral spirits or brandy and redistilling. I believe this style of "Eau de Vie" has a distinct name in cultures that care more about that sort of thing.
  3. One of the larger blowouts in recent Iron Chef America history. The winners coming out on top by nearly 20 points, I believe. I wish the bartenders had been more evenly matched, or even that they had picked a flair bartender to go against Abou-Ganim. Bottle juggling would have at least provided some gymnastic fireworks against Abou-Ganim's more traditional approach. Not familiar with Ms. Albert. Googling tells me she is a Midwestern consultant for Southern Wine & Spirits. Abou-Ganim's cocktails were nicely paced. Starting out with richer ones, having a couple prosecco based mixed drinks in the middle, and finishing with his mango "Eau de Vie" (flavored vodka). Albert seemed to have a few too many rich cocktails based on mango puree. Though, there was a nice looking one in the middle, which she called something like a savory martini. Hey! No one used Gin! I tell you mangos and gin, it's the way to go...
  4. The Buffalo Trace Antique collection is usually released some time in October or November each year. The Whiskeys are special bottlings of William Larue Weller, George T. Stagg, Sazerac 18, Handy Sazerac, and Eagle Rare 17 year. Most are single barrel, cask strength selections. Every year they pick the special barrels that will be used for the years' bottling and bottle them in one batch. When they are gone, they are gone until the next year's release. The Weller and the Handy Sazerac seem to be in the lowest quantity/highest demand this year. I've read there were a total of around 4,000 bottles of the Handy and around 3,000 bottles of the Weller. Because the barrels are specially selected each year, there is a fair bit of variation in taste, character, and proof from year to year.
  5. The book on my list right now related to that subject is "Culinary Artistry" by Andrew Dornenburg. I thought I remembered it recommended up topic; but, don't see it there. Perhaps it was on another website. More recently, Dornenburg has written another book called, "What to Drink with what you Eat". Would love to get comments from anyone who has read either book.
  6. Vesper, Thanks for providing some additional information. After reading your post and thinking about it some more, it makes sense to me to think of this bar in the context of the sort of service you might receive in a sushi bar or other types of small Japanese restaurants. A small series of seats in a small restaurant. The culinary artisan sits across from you, and with great skill prepares your cocktail as you look on. Or so I imagine, as I've only seen them in movies and on television. One day I do hope to visit. And, yes, I suppose the vermouth on the side is nicer-ish. Though, I would prefer the vermouth to remain in the cocktail! (5-1, orange bitters, stirred, lemon peel, no olive, if you're keeping track!)
  7. Having never been to Japan, I'm never sure how representative these videos are of Japanese bar culture in general, or if they are just from very upscale establishements. They are often quite impressive. I don't understand the rinsing-the-ice-with-vermouth method of making a martini, or why anyone would want a shot of cold vermouth on the side. I'll admit, though, I really don't understand the impetus for the nearly vermouth-free gin martini. I can understand, if you're using vodka for your "martini", you'd want to reduce the amount of vermouth, so it doesn't overwhelm the spirit. I like gin and a stiff drink as much (or more) than the next guy. I also get that many modern gins are lower proof, so less dilution may be necessary. Possibly, one could argue that modern distillation is cleaner, and therefore, there is less need to hide any imperfections of the gin with additives. I don't know if I buy that. On the other hand, with most of the brands contract distilling, it may be that the bulk of the gin available today in the US is of lower quality than it was 50 years ago. In any case, here we're talking about Tanqueray and Beefeater Gin. Both of which are quality gins, I believe, still bottled at the same strength as ever. Cinzano Vermouth, is also generally regarded as a fine brand, though, I'm not sure if I've tasted their dry product. Not sure if I have a point. I guess I'm just puzzled by the seemingly pointlessly elaborate nature of the Martini ritual as shown in the video. What sort of establishment is this, that they have this much time to spend on a single cocktail for a single customer. Also, is the idea that you are supposed to drink the vermouth straight or add it to the Martini to taste? Were they just trying to impress Angus?
  8. I almost always cook beans with a bit of mirepoix, a couple crushed garlic cloves, a fresh thyme stick, and a bay leaf or two. I don't see why bacon or ham hocks would be a bad idea. Are you concerned it won't cook for long enough?
  9. Brandy Vermouth Cocktail 1 Dash Angostura Bitters 1/4 Italian Vermouth (3/4 oz Cinzano Rosso) 3/4 Brandy (2 1/4 oz Pierre Ferrand Cognac Ambre) Stir well and strain into cocktail glass For some reason I didn't have much hope for this cocktail. Maybe the not very original name? Or perhaps I expected the Italian Vermouth to overpower the Cognac? In any case, here's another Savoy cocktail that defied my expectations. Tasty and complex. The vermouth nicely underscores elements of the Cognac without overpowering it. The dash of bitters punches it up slightly. The elements combine for some subtle cherry-ish flavors you wouldn't expect from any of the components. Nice.
  10. Homemade grappa? Well, yeah, grappa isn't a very good substitute for brandy. I think Metaxa is OK. Kind of its own thing, though. I've never tried it; but, I've read it is lightly flavored with herbs and spices. Maybe sweetened a bit too? If French Cognacs are ungodly expensive, how about Spanish Brandies? They're a bit different flavor-wise from Cognacs; but, perfectly respectable, and often quite reasonable.
  11. Larousse Cocktails Fernando Castellon French Edition published in 2004, Published in Great Britain in 2005* The book is primarily divided by type of alcohol used, with sections for Vodka, Gin, Whisky, Rum, Tequila, Brandy, Champagne, Other, and Non-Alcoholic. It also includes a number of recipes for Cocktail snacks. Each type of alcohol section is divided into, "Dry Cocktails", "Thirst Quenching Cocktails," "Fruit Based Cocktails," "Liqueur Based Cocktails," and "Smooth Cocktails". A section on the history of Cocktails is interesting, focussing on the bartenders of each epoch. He also adds the rather unique feature of "A Chronological Overview" of cocktail recipes included in the book, as much as possible giving credit to the bartender or cocktail enthusiasts who created the cocktails. As with any historical endeavor, the history and attribution is sometimes questionable, or has been shown to be incorrect since the publication of the book. On the cocktail philosophy front, the author divides cocktails into three primary components, "base," "modifier," and "flavouring and colouring agents" and gives the three conditions necessary for a successful cocktail as "taste," "apperance," and "the name". He doesn't go beyond that to talk about the spirit in which to present a cocktail successfully or any details about his experience behind the bar or as a cocktail consultant. The obligatory "Cocktail Preparation" section is well written and illustrated. The recipes are given using "measures" and fractions, and sometimes teaspoons. For example, the Cosmopolitan is given as: 1 measure vodka, 1/2 measure cranberry juice, 1 teaspoon fresh lime, 1 teaspoon curacao. All recipes are illustrated with a full color picture of the cocktail presented in appropriate glassware. There are not many unusual ingredients called for. A well stocked bar or home bar shouldn't have too much trouble making the recipes included. Fresh juices are recommended. Aside from Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge, very few specific brands are given in recipes (aside from the ubiquitous ones, like Campari.) The sections which stood out the most to me were the Champagne cocktails and non-alcoholic cocktails. Many more nice looking examples of those two categories here than in any other cocktail book I've seen. A very nice illustrated section called, "For Greater Insight," follows the main book, including detailed sections on the manufacture of most of the spirits and liqueurs, a glossary of bar terms, and an extensive bibliography. Beyond the simple alphabetical index, he includes an index of cocktails by their main ingredient and a unique index of cocktails by their "appropriate time of drinking". On the whole, I find it a useful; but, not entirely compelling resource. The author's writing style is quite dry. The pictures, while well done, are not exciting. Very few cocktails are exceptionally garnished beyond the lovely glassware or presented in any context beyond a light box. One of the main advantages to the book, though, is the inclusion of a number of cocktail recipes created by bartenders in England or Europe. Many of these, like Bradsell's Bramble and Treacle, are only now beginning to show up on American bar menus. It is great to have the recipes for these, and many others, as a reference. --- *By the way, I am still slightly confused, and wondering if the English and French versions of the book are the same. There appears to have been another book published in French under the same name in 1995 by an author named Jaques Salle. Neither Salle, nor that edition of the book are mentioned anywhere that I've found in this edition.
  12. The above "Brandy Special Cocktail" is pretty much the verbatim recipe for the "Brandy Cocktail" from Jerry Thomas' "How To Mix Drinks". The only real difference being the Savoy doesn't mention straining it into a cocktail glass. Is that the "Special" part? Or is it just assumed you will strain it into a cocktail glass? I have to admit I kind of prefer it with ice in the glass, whether cracked or cubes. It makes it more of a leisurely drink. I also think using dry sugar is a nice touch. The sugar doesn't all dissolve at the start, and the drink remains balanced and interesting as the ice melts and dissolves more of the sugar. In point of fact, you could create a matrix with every liqueur, liquor, bitters and sugar in your cupboards, make the above cocktail with them, and probably come across few bad drinks. You might even find some interesting new combinations.
  13. Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Digest and 96 Hours section, Friday, March 02, 2007 Higher ground, Tim Teichelgraeber France's unsung wines play well in snow, Derrick Schneider THE SIPPING NEWS: $833.33 for a bottle of Napa Cab Stalking an asparagus pairing Guzzling monarch Dessert cocktails Lone sharpshooter sent packing Tastings: A historic winery in Anderson Valley's still going strong, Olivia Wu Cocktailian: Daytime bar crawlers find perfect setting for a Pearl, Gary Regan Recipe: The Pearl Adapted from a recipe by Jon Santer, bartender at Bourbon and Branch, San Francisco. Letters To Wine The Cheese Course: Gorgonzola's lesser-known sister from Italy's alpine region, Janet Fletcher Pairings: A hedonistic dish worth the indulgence, Joyce Goldstein Recipe: Scallop Gratin Chronicle Wine Selections: 2004 White Burgundy, Jon Bonné 96 Hours Bar Bites: P.F. Chang's, Jennifer Tomaro "The life-size Ming Dynasty-style horses on display at nearly all of the restaurants in the P.F. Chang's franchise stand guard at either side of the long, curved bar in the bustling Walnut Creek establishment. The stonelike monoliths flank a Chinese mural and the hustle and pours of busy bartenders. Sheer red curtains, hanging wooden lanterns illuminating sunset-orange hues and overall dim lighting create a stylish environment atypical of chain restaurants. Coupled with conversant and educated servers who keep the vibe going, the bar at P.F. Chang's keeps you entranced." Bargain Bite: Little Star Pizza, Jane Tunks "But, as the newest of three pizza places on a four-block-long stretch of Valencia Street in San Francisco, Little Star Pizza disproves that notion, with admirable renditions of both deep-dish and thin-crust pies. (Arinell, near 16th Street, dishes out New York-style slices, while Pauline's, near 14th Street, serves up a California pizza with toppings grown in its own garden.)" Critics Picks: Chinese "The big decision, then, lies in what regional interpretation of Chinese cuisine to sup on: Hong Kong-style seafood like that at R&G Lounge in San Francisco or Koi Palace in Daly City? Shanghai food the way chef-owner Nei' Chia Ji prepares it at Jai Yun, his tiny restaurant in Chinatown? Beijing hot pot and halal lamb dishes at Old Mandarin Islamic in the Sunset District?"
  14. Brandy Special Cocktail 3 or 4 Dashes Gomme Syrup (1 cube demerara sugar) 2 or 3 Dashes Bitters (Angostura) 1 Wineglass Brandy (2 oz Korbel VSOP Brandy) 1 or 2 Dashes Curacao (2 barspoons Brizard Orange Curacao) (Soak sugar cube in bitters and crush with muddler in bottom of old fashioned glass. Add Curacao, and stir. Add brandy, stir.) Squeeze lemon peel; fill one-third full of (cracked) ice, and stir with a spoon. Growing up in Wisconsin, the Curacao here is a bit twee, not to mention the use of Korbel VSOP. Doesn't hurt, though, and gives a bit of leeway to us city folk. Anyway, if you can master this simple formula, (or find a bartender who does,) you may not find much cause to sample other cocktails.
  15. Love the smell of regular popcorn (and real butter). Can't stand the clinging smell of microwave popcorn. Though, the work breaks, when other staff forget it in the microwave and set off the building smoke detectors, are appreciated. I'm sure the municipal fire department really appreciates a break from life saving and paramedic emergencies, as well.
  16. Well, I don't know if it is even possible. I believe I read it somewhere on the internet. Maybe one of ThinkingBartender's posts*? Looking at gum syrup recipe from Thomas' "How to Mix Drinks" on Darcy O'Neil's Art of the Drink site, I see a more conservative amount of sugar given. Looks to be somewhere a little less than 2-1 sugar to water by weight. It seems like there are several other gums which might be interesting. Locust Bean Gum in particular, seemed interesting to me, as it forms a gel. Also, unlike Gum Arabic and Locust Bean Gum, Guar Gum hydrates in water at room temperature, so it wouldn't require cooking. PS. I love the "Essence of Cognac" recipe on that same page of "How to Mix Drinks". *Found it: Bacardi Cocktail
  17. I tried a Brandy Crusta sort of half way between the Savoy and the Jerry Thomas recipe. Quite enjoyed it. Brandy Crusta for 2: 4 oz Brandy 1/2 oz Brizard Curacao Juice 1/2 lemon 2 Dashes The Bitter Truth Boker's Bitters (Bother them, maybe they'll make another batch!) Followed Thomas procedure shaking with cracked ice, and straining into small sugared glasses with a half a pared lemon peel each. Unfortunately, pictures didn't really turn out very well. Need to work on my sugared rim technique and sharpen my paring knife. Sadly not pretty. Tasty, though.
  18. eje

    Bizarre Foods

    I watched the Philippines episode and thought it was OK. Some interesting locations and food. That underground river trip was pretty cool. My first episode, so I'm not sure if it was representative. I can't say I saw anything offensive or insulting to the culture in question. It is just him going around seeing sites, eating what he considers unusual food, and commenting on it. It would be nice to get a bit more cultural insight, information, or commentary. He should film in the Midwest and do a show about Lutefisk and Lefse dinners! I'd love to see his response to Rommegrot.
  19. Cool! So, a cartoon fan who liked very sour brandy cocktails! Noted... I still think it would be improved with some soda. But, that is my personal preference, not an historical speculation.
  20. Oh, I see! I've read somewhere that classic gomme was made at something like 9-1 sugar to water ratio. I was trying to figure out how on earth all that sugar wouldn't just spontaneously crystallize out of solution. But, I guess the gomme, would somehow prevent that crystallization, like adding some portion of corn syrup to candies?
  21. Hmm... From the name I initially thought maltodextrin had something to do with maltose (malt sugar). I see it does not. Most that you would buy in a brewery store are industrial products created from Corn or Potato starch. Looks like it is sometimes used as a shortcut to add mouthfeel to home brew made without malting your own grain. It does seem like some maltodextrins are naturally occurring. An in-between state between starches and simple sugars. Oh, here're a few more that are used in place of Gum Arabic: (I don't really understand all that stuff!)Source: Gum Arabic
  22. re: Brandy Gump Recipe Certainly an odd one. Skimming the Savoy Cocktail book, it's the only cocktail I could find that calls for the juice of a whole lemon. Most sours and fizzes call for the juice of a half a lemon. That fact does make me wonder if it's a typo, a missing ingredient, or just the preference of someone who liked really sour cocktails. While unsweetened citrus cocktails do exist among the recipes, I'd be inclined to be generous with the grenadine and maybe even give it a squirt of soda.
  23. Now I know the truth is always a tricky thing, when human invention and imagination get involved; but, it seems like cocktail history is particularly treacherous. When you read something like Asbury and Beebe's Account of the Creation of the Blue Blazer, it sounds great. It has a mythic quality almost like those stories of Paul Bunyon. However, as Mr. Wondrich so wittily points out, "it is most unlikely that it has the added advantage of being true." This was a mere 50 years later. Is it that so much of the history, stories, and recipes are passed verbally for a few years before being written down? Or are bartenders and cocktail historians, present company excepted, just a charismatic; but, unreliable lot.
  24. David... Quite an adventure, sounds like! Thanks for persevering. re: hooker. Check the Savoy receipt for the "Nose-Dive Cocktail". In it you place a "hooker" of gin in the bottom of an "ordinary tumbler", then fill the tumbler with ginger ale, "until almost to the top of the small glass." The whole thing is then quickly downed. "That is, everything but the small glass." From that recipe, it seems to me a hooker has to be a small-ish shot glass. I was wondering about the name, Brandy Gump. Along with being slang for a stupid person, according to the wikipedia and several airplane websites, GUMP is "an acronym for 'Gas,' 'Undercarriage,' 'Mixture,' and 'Propeller.' It is a mnemonic to help a pilot to check four critical items in an airplane prior to landing." I wonder if the Brandy Gump is another WW I flyboy cocktail?
  25. Andy, I have a bottle of one of the batches of a Binny's Barrel Select Buffalo Trace Bourbon, so I'm not sure how representative it is of the product line. I find it to be a very dry, grassy, and intense in style. About as far from the richer, fruity Weller Bourbons as you can get. I like it OK in vermouth heavy Manhattans; but, that's about it.
×
×
  • Create New...