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D & R Sharpening

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    http://www.drsharpening.com

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    Alburtis, PA

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  1. This is the best (well only really) book like this on the market. Yes there's knife skills books but no "knife books" out there that cover in such detail the great subject of kitchen knives. I wholeheartedly recommend this book to anyone who uses knives in a kitchen (and who doesn't, right?). --Dave--
  2. Ceramic knives are a bit of a pain to sharpen. It's best to use a fine (or extra fine) diamond plate like those sold by DMT to this this work. I say to use fine because if you use too coarse of a diamond plate you will fracture out the edge. --Dave--
  3. I have many knives but these three are my treasures/favorites.... Top - Watanabe 270mm WaGyuto w/ custom "Fish made" California Buckeye Burl handle w/buffalo horn bolster Middle - Takeda Western Deba (210mm?) Bottom - Suien VC Cleaver w/custom "Fish made" Rosewood handle --Dave--
  4. I've sharpened one or two of those Sanetu (sp?) santokus before and don't recall it being a problem to do. --Dave--
  5. That's a beauty of a knife. Congrats on scoring it! --Dave--
  6. Hi there and "Thanks"! Yes, that's no problem at all to fix up your knife, well I guess I'd have to know a bit more about it first, but it's usually no problem. I can offer two solutions... 1. Depending on your exact location, and how many knives/scissors you need sharpening, I could come to you and sharpen right at your place. OR 2. You could send the knife to us using our hand dandy mail order program. We generally turn all work around within 24 hours of receipt. Many of our Center City customers use this service and usually have their knives back within days of sending them out. This may be your best option. See http://drsharpening.com/9.html for pricing & instructions. Either way it works out I want to thank you for considering us for your sharpening needs. Regards, Dave Martell
  7. I'm generally not the bragging type but I'm so damn proud of this I just have to share. I somehow managed to get listed in the Best of Philly 2007 and I'm beaming from ear to ear as a result. --Dave--
  8. That is exactly how a santoku's use differs from Euro chef & Japanese gyuto use. On a side note for all, don't judge Japanese knives by santokus alone. Not only are they the least used knives in Japan they do nothing really well. Also, 99% of santokus sold in the US are not Japanese at all and are Euro made from thick stock weak in the knees steel. They just can't compare to their Japanese counterparts on any level besides overall shape. --Dave--
  9. If the stone is a waterstone (like Globals' are) then water is what should be used. I can't say that oil will do any harm or not but the stone has been formulated to work with water, and since water is (almost free) and certainly less messy it sure seems to be the way to go. As for Norton stones it all depends on what type of stone you have as they make both oil and water stones. Something worth noting is that you can't use water after you used oil as the stone will reject the water. If you've already done this you either have to stick with the oil or toss the stone and get another to use with water. --Dave--
  10. I've seen a lot of knives with the tips poked right through knife rolls so I'm adding my vote for getting and using them in conjunction with your knife roll. Any type is better than none. --Dave--
  11. I'm going to second Bob's (Octaveman) recommendations/opinions. I too feel that good stones are a small investment when using good knives. My personal feeling is that Shapton's stones are king. I have a lot of experience with their Pro stones but understand their new Glasstones to be of very high quality as well. Norton's waterstones would rate 2nd. They give a decent edge and are priced right for the begineer. These stones should be a first consideration. Spyderco's Sharpmaker is not really a sharpening system. It's more of a touch up tool or hone. It really won't sharpen a dull edge and it definitely won't repair chips/nicks, or broken tips. It's very slow to use and really is nothing more han a ceramic "steel". I'd not recommend spending money on this unless you want a great touch up tool. --Dave--
  12. I want to thank everyone who posted here. I really appreciate your honest answers and great information. Thanks for your time.... Dave Martell
  13. Hi everyone, I was wondering if you folks could help me out with some research I'm doing. If you would be so kind, could you answer the following questions? 1. How often do you sharpen your knives? 2. What method do you use to do so? I'm looking for information from anyone and everyone. There is no right or wrong answer here, I just want the facts. Thanks for helping.... Dave Martell
  14. I both agree and disagree with this statement. I agree that these are fantastic products. I own both the glass smooth and ceramic steels from HandAmerican. I disagree that price is no factor, however. Fortunately, this consideration seals the deal in HandAmerican's favor. $35 for a smooth steel by HandAmerican? A smooth steel by F. Dick will cost close to a hundred bucks! Everyone should have the glass smooth and ceramic steels from HandAmerican. ← Hi slkinsey, I should've been more clear with my statement as I agree 100% with yours. --Dave--
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