Andrew Morrison

WE website is soon to be revamped, so my last two columns have been offline. There should be a box on your corner outside JF... That said, the opening paragraph runs thus:

Oops. It crept in somehow. Thanks for the subliminal plant.

Nice name. Thanks Jane.

Gill, the game is up. For the love of all that is good, out yourself. Signed, Armchair critic # 43

I must confess that I've started navigating by restaurants. There is always a siren. For starters: Ikea gravy. Adesso Bistro's Vitello Tonnato. Wok fired spicy calamari at the Beach House. Chicken burrito at Topanga. Mussels Congolaise at Chambar. Apple and sausage tart flambe at Lucy Mae Mae Brown holding pocket aces. Kung Po Chicken at Wild Rice. Gingerbread pudding at Hamilton Street Grill. Pork Torino at Stella's. Coconut Chicken Curry at Rangoli. Lumberjack Breakfast at Sophie's. Beef Bourguignon at Burgoo. Burger with broccoli gratin at Feenie's. Triple O burger on a Swartz Bay sailing. Pizza Kolachy. Carbonara at Cin Cin. Potato Raclette at George. Cheesecake at Pagliacci's (Victoria) Torrefazione coffee (no more - now Cafe Richard from Trafiq in West Van). Not picking up the check at Lift. Smarties Peanut Butter cookies from Delany's Haas chocolates.

Nice. Thanks. Sometimes, TFA, you kick the wicket square.

Fear and Loathing in Kitsilano: Nigel & Co. are shutting the doors of Tangerine, selling the space to the Hell's Kitchen folks in September. New Main Street location with same people and name? I always loved the service at Tangerine, so I hope the staff make the move, too. Let's hope for the best.

On second thought, no comment. I might want to write for the Globe one day.

Good for you Derek for outing yourself like that. Here is the link to Mia Stainsby's article. My turn in 7 days.

Couldn't agree more, Jamie. This is exciting news. Evoke can make a pretty room! Any clues as to name, concept, menu, and opening day?

Almost by definition, yes, but the WHY is more elusive. How do you solve the larger mystery: the disconnect between food quality with the quality of the setting? I've always thought that with a kickass view you'd aim for kickass everything else.

This doesn't have to be the case. If you spend upwards of $7mil on a sweet set of digs, and Watermark is a sweet set of digs, then c'mon...make it something amazing. Make it something that will blow the socks off of everyone that walks in the door. From top to bottom, the place should be brimming with excellence. With the location, they've been dealt four aces and a king, but they're betting as if they've got a 3-7 off-suit.

Why the hell not, I ask? Look across from Bridges to "C" and Nu, sitting pretty like a perfect set of lovelies, challenging Bridges to a duel across the water with food, wine, and service. It's no contest, right? But unfortunately, it's the deep-fried, unadventurous palates of the Gap masses that matter. That their culinary resumes move forward in steady, blinkered, fart-propelled inches doesn't. Burger and fries. Burger and fries. Burger and fries. What a pretty view, Norman. Now rub my belly and pay the bill. I've spent my first years in Vancouver witnessing a scene evolve at an accelerated pace. The dining public are getting better educated and more adventurous, trying new and exotic flavours that were formerly milkbones for the rich and dainty. Some restaurants have captialised on this broad advance, either by driving the engine of progress or sitting in the caboose. Look at Noble and Earl's! Even the so-called sub-par restaurants you mention haven't escaped the quickening. Waterfront or not, those that suck in the tourists like Disney pimps are milking the same teat of West Coast rapture, of love and affection for the local, the new, and the imaginative (for the record, the Fish House is excellent, as is the Cannery. The Sequoia is OK, or at least puts forward the pretense of effort, while other waterfront places such as Lift (there last night - packed!) have vastly improved since their weak-kneed start back in January). I so very badly wanted to enjoy the food at Watermark because I think its an ambassador of our town, and far more so than say...Sandbar. From the moment construction began it became, like it or not, emblematic. And what it is telling visitors right now is that Vancouverites have the culinary maturity of Chef Boyardee dressed in Abercromibe and Fitch. All that being said, bad beginnings can inspire changes for the better and I presume (given the buckets of venomous vitriol) that their menus will be changed at some point. People in the restaurant world are in the business of listening, so let's hope they have ears.

I've seen some international visitors checking out this thread, and they must be rubbing their heads as to what we're on about. Here is the link to Watermark's updated site. See for yourselves what the fuss is all about.

But there's a dividing line of expectations between places like Stella's and multi-million dollar bohemoths that can (shudder) go far in defining our city (and it's food, unfortunately) for tourists. In a sense, we all need Watermark to be excellent, and if it's bad it does a broader disservice to the city and its reputation as a foodie destination. Their responsibilities, whether they like it or not, go beyond taking care of their immediate customers.

As my wife is a lurker (and perhaps my editor, too), I can say with confidence that I never, ever, go beyond my budget of $12.73 a year.

Well put, winegeek...and a nice self-out to boot . I paid Watermark a visit today for lunch, and though I'll save my thoughts for an inkier page, I can't agree with you more. That said, it would be great to hear more eGulls weigh in with their own reviews of Watermark. Has anyone else been? I implore you to go sooner rather than later, for the weather can't possibly stay this perfect for too much longer. The breeze coming up from the water today made me wonder why I didn't move to Vancouver earlier! One of the servers I spoke to was freshly plucked from the "Peg", and we had a good chat about how incredible the location is. He said going to work everyday was like doing custodial work in heaven. Lucky sod.

That's a tricky one. I try to, and if I go early after opening I go several times to see if things improve. Some, from what I've seen recently, come out of the blocks close to perfection on all fronts, but I think a 2-3 week grace period is pretty fair. As for AGill and her raking of Watermark, I wasn't making a comment pro or con - I was more interested in gauging whether eGulls thought it was fair or unfair. In the end, she answers to herself, so my opinion is worth a nosehair. Per Se's tipping thingy is clearly the work of the devil. Thanks for the link! -shudder -

Well said, Neil.

Mr. Pawsey was kind, but he made a strange swipe at those "armchair" critics making fun of the name Watermark.... ....lurker. Ms. Gill went for the jugular! Ouch. Crap? That's just mean. Fair or unfair so quick after opening?

I second Brasserie. I had a marvellously simple dinner of steak frite there the other night with a couple glasses of 2001 bordeaux. Fantastic meal. Probably the most sincere dining room in the city. Great people with zero pretensions.

Checked out Lure today. Some Victoria hotels appear to have caught on to the notion that it's smarter to refer guests to their own restaurant rather than an independent when they ask the concierge "Where's a really good place to eat around here?" These guys make the Empress look every bit her age!

At the Rosemeade tonight for a recce, a bite, and a conversation with Mark. You were right, Shelora. What an awesome place!

Achiote-rubbed flat-iron steak sliced rare on soft mini tacos with horseradish creme fraiche and pickled onion relish.......what's not to like? I visited Stella's this past week and loved it. Nothing over the top, mind you (would that work on the Drive?), but right on the money as far as food, service, and atmosphere goes at the price point ($5-$12). Plenty imagination all round, and with 30 different small plates on offer next to 30 different beers, I'm sold. More on Stella's elsewhere this week.