i've always believed that at the better restaurants good service is always the opening intent of the server. our livelihood depends on good service. most of us strive for it at every table, but there are a myriad of variables that can always sneak into play to work against us. there is a complex interplay at work with support staff, grumbly chefs etc., but the guest seldom sees anything beyond their server's face. that's the way we like it. it's an illusion. when it works well, it's seamless and you've hardly noticed that you've been served at all. when things fall apart, it's in your lap. in the best restaurants, things go wrong usually without the server knowing or is not his/her fault at all. for example, from the moment you walked in the door, things went awry. the hostess rubbed you the wrong way with her thousand yard glare, and you watched the bucolic valet rub a trail of snot on the back of his hand before taking your keys. you then are forced to wait 20 minutes at the bar for your reserved table while the bartender takes his sweet time mixing your gal a lukewarm, watery cosmo. when you finally get to your table, it's next to the kitchen door and you can hear the sous chef berating the dishwasher with epithet after epithet in cantonese as you wearily thumb a winelist stained with last night's buerre blanc. the busser brings bread that is stale and cold and then finally, the hapless server, totally oblivious, approaches the table to say "good evening" with just about the milkiest smile you've ever seen. too late, bubba. already you've likely made your mind up to never return to the restaurant and only a herculean retrieval effort on the part of the server can turn back the tide of disappointment that jades every dish thereafter presented. service can be immaculate from there on in, but the restaurant has blown it's wad. it just doesn't matter anymore. my point is this: the intent was there, but things fall apart. like in football, anything can happen on any given sunday. at the highest level, no one restaurant can claim it's service is better than another and no savant can predict how an evening will unfold for even the city's best servers. as with all illusions, sometimes they just don't work.