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Andrew Morrison

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Posts posted by Andrew Morrison

  1. I've only read the one review in question, so I don't know if it is typical of her style.

    If there was a "Write Like A Gill" class, her review of Rare would classify as lecture material.

    It should be remembered that food writing is not really her strongest suit as I'm sure the nomination for the award she alluded to upthread was for her Arts and Entertainment reporting. Traditionally, her beat has been to cover stories like this, that, and the other. Interestingly, she has come under fire in the past for not restraining her particular brand of critical "honesty" to the more exacting realm of cuisine.

    Now, I've been very vocal in my criticisms of Gill, from the time she called Watermark chef Linda Larouche's food "crap" to the time she whined gratingly about Habit Lounge (and Diva, Century, Rare, et cetera ad infinitum), but when her work is viewed through the prism of the irrelevant-to-food milieu of film, arts, and celebrity gossip, her "award-nominated" tone is easily understood. Much of the subject matter is vapid by definition.

    Her weekly forays into food writing might just be a few more hours on her Globe paycheck (and it might benefit us all, myself included, if they are read as such), but the fruit of her much-maligned style is singular: the selling of many newspapers.

    Look closely there, and you'll find the rub. Gill could make a train wreck out of Ebulli before breakfast, and that's sweet copy.

    In the end, it is a magnificent shame that our most respected national publication holds our "small town" in such contempt as to not afford us a professional. In other words, our restaurants (both deserving and undeserving) are paying the price for what increasingly appears to be a regional short-change.

  2. In the next 24 hours or so, Sean Heather's opening soon blog will go "live" on Waiterblog. I took a tour of the construction site today with Sean and Scott. A long, 50 seater, and quite the departure from the Irish Heather! Design is modern. Brushed aluminum. Exposed concrete. Think cured meats, artisan cheeses, and plenty wines by the pour. Our own Mr. Bonner is currently fiddling with the list.

    gallery_442111970b77a.jpg

  3. ^

    Be comforted by your tired feet and your full room! :laugh:

    How did it go over at the restaurant?

    Why the hell hasn't the star himself swaggered in to this thread, all obese with the wares of fame?

    "Modern Latin Cowboy. Modern Latin Cowboy. Modern Latin Cowboy."

    Well done.

  4. My youngest went berserk with my specs that morning (he's in the "clutching" stage), but that's no excuse for poor face time on the boob. It's really my nose, a bulbous Colobian mishap of a blower. Apologies.

    My wife thought I looked pretty.

    Fun stuff. Fine restaurant, modern latin cowboy theme and all (needs a little bit more cowbell).

    The permit hilarity I found particularly accurate. You've got to wonder, what would Che do?

    They still don't have a website together, but you can read the menus and the original press releases on mine.

  5. Apologies. Still curious about the breadth of opinion as I've heard a lot of it, ranging from the very local to the industry-centric. On the whole, it's been pretty positive. Aside from a few of the desserts, the only dish that I consider in need of a rethink is their dress code.

  6. In a perfect world, I would return right away. There were several readers who wrote to say I was unduly harsh on Habit last week and should have returned several times before writing a critical review. Alas, like most consumers, I pay full price for my meals, have a monthly budget to stick to and must make my assessment of a restaurant on one visit.

    Oh gawd, the shenanigans!

    Nevertheless, a refreshing and very well put together review. I haven't had enough of the food yet to comment fairly, but I agree entirely about the music. The place is a cathedral deserving of a better choir than what it currently (and regrettably) sports. Perhaps they lean too heavily on what they like (thump thump thump) rather than what would gel the best. Something like this would be a holistic and far more suitable wax carpaccio (if you've been to Century, click track two to see what I mean). Still, what do I know? If they played Ruby Tuesday in there I'd likely leave a puddle.

  7. Why would one go back to a place that was truly dissapointing....I went and had perfectly cold fish cakes. Will I be back to give it a second chance? No. Why? Because there are so many good places to go that get it right everytime.

    Perfectly cold fish cakes happen on Any Given Sunday, as perfection is not a test restaurants often take, but since you suggest that "there are so many good places to go that get it right every time", I'd love to have you share these elusive standouts!

    In the end, even if you and Ms. Gill have much higher standards than I, it boils down to the simple, unavoidable truth: single visit test drives and cold appetisers are hardly props enough to hold up the absolute damnation of an otherwise worthwhile place.

    edited for clarity and kicks

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