rjwong

I think he's trying to give Daniel competition. ← Hey! I resemble that statement!! Besides, there are other gluttonous hearty eaters around here at eGullet.

My full report with photos of Cyrus can be found here.

My full report with photos of the General’s Daughter can be found here.

Quiet town, busy restaurant After a wonderful dinner no. 1, I drove up the 101 to a small, quiet town called Healdsburg for dinner no. 2. My dinner reservation was for 9:00 p.m. I found Cyrus restaurant with little difficulty. The restaurant is next to a Relais Hotel. I go into the dining room, and the place is slammed, in a small town, on a Sunday night! The servers move to and from the kitchen at a brisk pace, as though it was a Saturday night. Canapes Two types of butter, two types of salt Amuse bouche A half-bottle of pinot noir Now they start putting the silverware in place. “Steak & Eggs”, Wagyu Steak and Lobster Tartare with Horseradish Creme Fraiche, and Caviar Seared Hamachi with Spinach Gomae, chilled Shoyu-Konbu Consomme Rabbit Loin with Spring Onions and Matsutake Mushrooms, Stuffed Baby Artichoke, Sherry Jus Foie Gras with Braised Duck Cannelloni and Green Garlic, Moscato Sauce Oh, the sheer decadance of this dish! I rank it right up there with the French Laundry’s “Beets & Leeks.” Palate Cleanser Veal with Morel Mushrooms, White Asparagus and Crispy Sweetbreads A Selection of Artisanal and Farmhouse Cheeses with Complementing Breads and Fruits Soda Rice Cream Sandwich with Yamamomo Gelee, Tapioca and Hibiscus Chips Tea Mignardises End of the Meal Kitchen Dining area Cyrus is doing great things in this small town. I was enjoying how the service was excellent, precise, while just a bit solicitous. Where do they find such professional servers in this small town of Healdsburg? The courses focused more on meats than seafood. And by the time I left the restaurant, it was 1 a.m. Then, I drove back from Healdsburg to Yountville, which made it 2:30 a.m. At this point, I could end my California culinary pilgrimage right here. But I’m not. There was so much more eating to do, even after Cyrus. That’s why it’s taking so long to post my report ... with photos ...

Saluting the General I took an afternoon nap. This was a pilgrimage, not a non-stop exercise in gluttony, right? Anyways, I was preparing myself for two dinners in one evening. The first one was in Sonoma. I had to drive from Yountville, down to Napa and head west over to Sonoma. Once I arrived in Sonoma, I eventually found the restaurant called the General’s Daughter: I got to meet Chef Preston and Nichole Dishman. They are such a wonderful couple!! Before the restaurant opened, chef Preston gave me a tour of the place. As for dinner, I just wanted a “light” dinner because I was going to have dinner no. 2 later in the evening. NB The portion sizes you will see in the next few photos are noted as “small.” The “regular” size portions are larger. Foie gras amuse bouche Asparagus salad with crab fritters Halibut with herb butter Shrimp and grits Those shrimp and grits sure made the Southern boy in me very happy!! Pineapple tart NB Again, the portion sizes you just saw in the last few photos are noted as “small.” The “regular” size portions are larger. Preston and Nichole took very good care of me. I definitely want to come back and eat those “regular” size courses. Thank you!!

Seeing Redd Before my Sunday brunch, I took a short drive north to St. Helena. I stopped into this place and showed great restraint: Yes, I was able to eat brunch after last night’s meal, thank you. Redd is a nice place and outdoor dining was superb on a day like this. Mind you, I decided to eat indoors. Strawberry smoothie With the yogurt topping, this smoothie hitt the spott. Shrimp and pork potstickers, cucumber salad, chili oil To this Chinese diner, they were not badd. Ricotta, mascarpone and herb ravioli, spring vegetables, green garlic nage I wanted to keep this meall lightt. Just like the previous course, it was pretty goodd. Fortunately, I managed to eat before the early afternoon rush. I had a nice talk with the manager, who used to work in L.A. years ago. Redd is quite a casual, relaxing restaurant.

My full report with photos of Chez Panisse Cafe can be found here

My full report with photos of Manresa can be found here.

My full report with photos of the French Laundry can be found here

A Chinese diner in the French Laundry After my lunch at Chez Panisse, I drove up to Napa Valley, didn’t stop at any taco trucks (sorry, Rancho Gordo), and arrived at my bed and breakfast place in Yountville. I decided to chill out before my 8:45 p.m. reservation at the French Laundry. I took a stroll through that affluent little town of Yountville: Bouchon, Bouchon Bakery, Bistro Jeanty, Hurley’s, Redd, Ad Hoc ... Hey, maybe a small, early dinner just before my late dinner at the French Laundry? Uhh, no ... Instead, I took a few pictures of the town to help give a geographical context. My walk to the French Laundry is just two doors down from the bed & breakfast place. I hope I can find my way back after this meal ... I arrived at the French Laundry and my friend was waiting outside. Before entering inside, I strolled around the outdoor area and from a distance, I looked inside and saw Thomas Keller himself. I didn’t get to meet him personally that evening. Mind you, he was there that night. Et maintenant, le dîner, il commence ... (And now, dinner begins ...) Gougères Amuse bouche A complimentary glass of champagne was offered. Our server helped guide us through the menu selections. I chose the Chef’s Tasting Menu. My friend chose the Tasting of Vegetables. I remember that they didn’t really offer any wine pairings. They could have, but that was not their approach, they explained. And if I recall correctly, I think I ordered a wine by the glass. Oysters and Pearls A complimentary course from the chef How did they cut that egg shell so perfectly? Salad of compressed hosui pears du beurre Sautéed fillet of Atlantic striped bass (blurred) Beets and Leeks What a misnomer! No mention of the lobster tail pochée au beurre doux!! Oh, how decadent! And don’t bother me! I’m eating! All day-braised Kurobuta pork belly Japanese “Wagyu” meat The raw meat was presented to me. I asked to see the certificate. Sorry, I didn’t take a picture of that. It was all in Japanese, except for the hoof print. Herb-roasted sirloin of Japanese “Wagyu” ($100.00 supplement) Yes, this course costed extra. Don’t have a cow, please, and you know what I mean! The presentation was wonderful, with hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, grilled scallions, “Akita Komachi” rice, tatsoi, and kanzuri “coulis.” You can have your meat and potatoes. As for me, I grew up eating rice with my steaks. The Wagyu beef with the rice brought back happier feelings of comfort back during my childhood days. This course was worth the extra hundred dollars! Hayden mango sorbet Coffee and Doughnuts Bitter Valrhona chocolate “sponge” Golden Monkey tea Granité aux agrumes Mignardises That tray looks empty. It needs to be filled-up with some sweets, ehh? My dining experience at the French Laundry was okay. It was just one of the best three meals I have ever had. The food was delicious, especially the Wagyu beef course and the “Beets & Leeks”. The service was excellent. The “house” restaurant decor made us feel very relaxed, as in eating at someone’s home. After the meal, we got a tour of the kitchen and met the staff, including Corey Lee. I personally got to talk with one of the pastry chefs who used to work in L.A. By the time I got back to the B&B, it was 1 a.m., and my friend had to drive back to Berkeley! Unfortunately, I was so focused on my tasting menu that I don’t really know how his vegetarian tasting menu went. In terms of cost, the French Laundry was the better bargain with Yountville prices instead of Las Vegas prices. Yes, I would go back to the French Laundry.

“The freshest, local, seasonal produce, simply prepared ...” Chez Panisse is ground zero for California cuisine, and Alice Waters is its most famous adherent. No, I didn’t get carried away and kiss the ground of Chez Panisse, as though it was the culinary version of Haight/Ashbury and the Summer of Love. It’s time for lunch. Acme bread Baked Sonoma goat cheese with garden lettuces Northern halibut involtini baked in the wood oven with zucchini and basil Cannard Farm rhubarb tart with strawberry ice cream Assam tea Chez Panisse is what I expected it to be: the freshest ingredients, simply prepared. No culinary tricks. No avant garde cuisine. Yes, we can make these dishes at home with the right ingredients & techniques. And the food will taste delicious. To a certain extent, I didn’t have to go to Chez Panisse, only to say that I’ve been there. Now that I’ve been to Chez Panisse, my dining experience there confirms that the distinctives of California cuisine are true and consistent since its emergence over 30 years ago.

Dim sum and then some After our time at the Ferry Building, we decided to have a little Chinese dim sum at Yank Sing before our lunch at Chez Panisse. Yes, you read that correctly. Yank Sing is a five-to-ten minute walk from the Ferry Building, far away from Chinatown. Notice the not-so-jammed ambience of the area, in contrast to the crowded streets of Chinatown, which has its own ambience, admittedly. Guo teh & Gai lan (Potstickers and Chinese broccoli) Har gow (Shrimp dumplings) Xiao long bao (Soup dumplings) Peking duck (one individual order) Dahn tat & Jin duey (Egg tart & Sesame ball with sweet bean filling) The dim sum was pretty good. The service was amazing. The soup dumpling (xiao long bao) is not your typical Cantonese food item. They were so good, we ate two orders ... Snack time is over. Back to Berkeley for lunch at Chez Panisse.

Are you going to Scarborough Fair? I left Los Gatos on Sat. morning, sometime after 7 a.m. I made my way to Berkeley, and once I got to my destination, my friend gave me a personal tour of Fra’Mani Handcrafted Salumi. This was a real privilege for me, seeing how they make all of their products. Here are some photos I was allowed to take: After the tour, we went over to San Francisco’s Farmers’ Market at the Ferry Building. And no, we didn’t wear flowers in our hair. Here are a few photos from the Ferry Building: The Ferry Building definitely is more commercial, more touristy, than the farmers’ markets down in Southern California. If you haven’t visited the Ferry Building, you should, at least one time. Boy, I showed great restraint! I didn’t buy anything there! Also, I had a wonderful time meeting Rancho Gordo. Glad to meet you, Rancho Gordo.

On the road to Los Gatos The complimentary breakfast buffet at the Best Western was fine for what it was. One item that impressed me was the hard-boiled eggs, already shelled. Wow, someone had to do all that by hand ... Driving up the 101, I arrived in the afternoon to the little town of Los Gatos. I checked into a local hotel, washed up and took a little rest before dinner at Manresa. The dinner reservation was for 6:30 p.m., party of three. Carolyn Tillie, her friend “R” and I were about to have some culinary fun that evening. I walked from my hotel to the restaurant, as you’ll notice: A couple of interior shots: Six amuse bouches to begin our dining adventure: (N.V. Comte Audoin de Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Chenay) Petits fours “red pepper-black olive” Radishes from the garden with seasonings on the side Who would have thought of an amuse bouche as simple as radishes? It’s so “Chez Panisse,” ehh?? Oyster in urchin jelly, nori croustillant Spring croquettes This amuse impressed all of us. Turnip and foie gras royale, cider Arpege farm egg Now comes eleven courses with wine pairings: Caviar consommé, seaweed brioche (Watataka-Shizuoka, Sake, Onikoroshi, Junmai Ginjo) The consommé was salty, paired with an inherently salty caviar. Amberjack with perilla and sesame (N.V. Dios Baco Manzanilla Sherry) Spring peas in bonito broth, marinated scallops (2003 Domaine Maestracci, “E Prove,” Vermentino, Corsica) Potato dumplings and vegetables from the garden, vegetable juices (blurred) (2003 Domaine de Salvard, Sauvignon Blanc, Cheverny) This vegetable course served during the middle of the meal made for a nice contrast. Bonito with seaweed pistou, ficoide glaciale (2005 Domaine Clape Saint Peray Rhone Valley) Garden veloute with mustard (2004 Sartarelli Classico Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi) Somewhere at this point in the meal (I don’t remember exactly when), we all took a little break. Carrie & “R” went to see David Kinch’s garden. I went to the men’s restroom. I mention this because to those who don’t know, the restroom is nicely decorated with a lot of framed menus. Mind you, to those who do know, those framed menus are something else upon careful inspection ... I’ll just leave it at that. Risotto with flowers, shellfish and cherry blossom leaves (blurred) (2006 Vietti Roero Arneis Italy) Abalone with asparagus and egg (2004 Chateau D’Epire Chenin Blanc Savennieres) The abalone was so good. And it wasn’t rough at all. Great preparation! Roast turbot, tender onions and oyster (2004 Paul Chapelle Champgain Puligny-Montrachet) Rabbit with lettuce-martadella raviolo (2000 Cafaro Merlot Napa Valley) Roast lamb and its sweetbreads, roasted beets (2001 Ahlgren Bate’s Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Cruz Mountains) A few desserts were served: (N.V. Pineau des Charentes Brillet, Cognac) Sweet pea and pistachio cones Good! I took that picture just in time. Strawberry souffle with meyer lemon Chocolate and olive oil mousse, ginger At this point, chef David Kinch came by the table and introduced himself. He is a nice, quiet man. We got to tour the kitchen. Kitchen We returned to our table and saw one last dessert: Petit fours “strawberry-chocolate” Tea box Things were coming to a close for us, or I would have liked to try one of those teas. Manresa is doing great things. All the vegetables served came from David Kinch’s garden. The courses were challenging, more cutting-edge than other places, particularly the vegetable courses. By concensus, some of the wine pairings didn’t work. Overall, I totally enjoyed my meal with my dinner companions. Carrie & “R” dropped me off back to the hotel. I think it was 11 p.m., but who’s keeping time anyways? Me, that’s who! I need to get up early and drive up to Berkeley to meet my friend at 8 a.m. I have a full day planned on Saturday.

My pilgrimage beginneth ... After giving tours to grade-school kids at my workplace all day, I was ready to leave for my pilgrimage. I drove during afternoon rush hour traffic from Glendale, located just north of downtown Los Angeles, along the 101. Once I got away from that mess, I found a place in the Santa Barbara area for dinner and a hotel to stay over. By leaving LA after work instead of early in the morning, I won’t feel so rushed. I had dinner at Downey’s in downtown Santa Barbara. I’ve always wanted to try that place. Here are a few photos from Downey’s: White asparagus salad with shrimp Pea soup Sauteed diver scallops with fingerling potatoes Raspberry white chocolate mille feuille Overall, a very nice meal at a classy neighborhood restaurant. Very relaxing ambience, the perfect thing to experience after the type of day I had. I drove up the freeway to a nearby Best Western and called it a night.

Guy Savoy should be included as well, especially if Robuchon is mentioned. And if your friend doesn't mind some ethnic food off-the-Strip, Lotus of Siam on Sahara Blvd. (south side), east of the Strip, west of Maryland, on Commercial Center. Personally, I haven't eaten at any Chinese places in Las Vegas. Mind you, I've read good things about Wing Lei. Steve Wynn brought over some Chinese chefs to cook for the high rollers at Wynn Resort. When is your friend coming out to Las Vegas, just in case others want to chime in on time?

The 2007 James Beard Foundation/Kitchenaid Book Award for Baking and Desserts goes to: Dorie Greenspan for "Baking: From my home to yours" Congratulations, Dorie!!!

SiseFromm, Flattery will get you everywhere. I'm glad you like the breakfast sausages. You only cooked two?? Boy, what restraint you have.

Carrie, my pilgrimage started a week ago! Did I survive? I don't know. Let me get back with you. Where's my report? It's somewhere with almost two hundred photos. You'll just have to be a good little foodie and wait like everyone else, including me ... BTW Where were you at the Ferry Building?

Double-check their website. The appetizers cost $9-13. Main courses in the $20's.

The Foundry on Melrose opened on Tuesday 1 May 2007, and I got to try the place out. Here are a few photos of the place: They do have a tasting menu, but I decided to order from the a la carte menu: Bun filled with tomato confit Pork Belly / Soft scrambled eggs/ crispy potato/ fine herbs Biscuit with garlic & herb butter Poached Halibut / leeks / ramps / crispy polenta / orange confit Berry mousse / caramelized muffins / marscapone ice cream The pork belly was prepared sous vide, which took out the juicy flavor I was anticipating. Mind you, the crunchy skin made up for it. The halibut was really good, not dry at all. The polenta paired well. The berry mousse tasted nice for what it is, really simple. I wonder if the Foundry is looking for a pastry chef. And there's one other thing the place has: a grand piano by the bar. The Foundry plans to have theplace turn into a lounge area with a bar menu and live music on Thur. through Sat. nights after their dining hours. I think it might work well on Melrose. These are my first impressions. I'm definitely going back for the tasting menu.

Yes, I enjoyed my meal, Swicks. I also want to give Abode staff some time to get familiar with their new restaurant. I'll probably go for their tasting menu. Are you interested, Swicks?

When did Mario Batali's B&B Ristorante at the Venetian open up? It must have been really recent. Restorer, enjoy your time in Las Vegas.

California, here you come! JWest, what happened on your trip? Did you make it to Sona? Tell us as much as you can and/or permitted to say (restaurant secrets, et al.). When do you all move out here? What do you think of Temecula and its wine country? Is that twenty questions already? Anyways, congratulations! I wish you great success on this Temecula restaurant project. Keep us updated on the project.

Abode just opened on Wed. night (16 Apr. 2007), and I had dinner there on a Sat. night. Executive Chef Dominique Crenn recently worked at the Manhattan Country Club, and previously worked at such Bay Area restaurants as Stars (under Jeremiah Tower) and Campton Place. Chef Dominique was executive chef at the Intercontinental Hotel in Jarkarta, and assumed the role of first female executive chef in the country of Indonesia. Described as “Sustainable, Artisanal, Seasonal,” Abode serves contemporary American cuisine. The decor is also contemporary and hip. Don’t worry. The photos are coming later. The service was fine ... for now. I realize that the restaurant just opened for less than a week. Mind you, once a place opens, everything is fair game, IMO. My server was very eager to please, helpful and engaging, a bit too casual for my taste. Also, he needs to be more familiar with the menu and its details. I expect that from any fine dining restaurant. Now, a few photos and the food ... Full disclosure: I know the pastry chef, who wasn’t there that evening. I thought it best to mention that fact, so as to not be accused of shilling. Abode is tucked away in the back patio area beyond the fountain: You can see the entrance door from the center booth, where I was seated. Four preparations of foie gras with a pineapple gelee This appetizer was served, compliments of the chef. They are all delicious, but I like the sauteed foie gras the best. The gelee adds a nice complement to the different preparations. Pea soup with pea “caviar”, topped with cocoa mascapone The combination works quite well. Beet salad with walnuts, French goat cheese and beet gelee I know it’s a nice, safe choice. Mind you, everybody has their own version, ehh? And I love beets ... Lamb Two Ways: Lamb chops with fava beans & mint The lamb chops were absolutely delicious! And yes, I was gnawing on the bones, discreetly, of course ... Lamb cheeks with dried prunes, imported from France, in a tagine The lamb cheeks were very adventurous to me. They were tender with a chocolate texture, in my thinking. Mind you, not sweet, more in the mole context ... It’s not so easy trying to explain this flavor complex. The Syrah from Ojai was a nice recommendation from the chef. And how often is lamb cheeks served in a restaurant? Banana/mango croquettes with caramel sauce and creme fraiche Very good dessert. There was a “Study in Chocolate” dessert listed, but I was not in a chocolate mood. FYI Because my pastry chef/friend very recently got hired, the dessert menu was actually created by Chef Dominique Crenn. NB Once the new pastry chef gets acclimated and the new dessert menu is in place, the gloves are coming off ... I’m definitely planning to go back and try the tasting menu, which will be available shortly.