ngatti

I once orderd an oyster sampler at M&S (nee kuleto's) and had a very knowledgable "Oyster Sommelier" come out and explain the origin and flavor profile of each different oyster. Impressive, especially for a dinner-house chain. Nick

OK folks just had an in depth discussion with one of my meat people. The decision to ungrade meat (specialties such as Niman ranch excepted) is an economic one on the part of the rancher. It seems the graders are paid a pretty good buck and in order to justify the rancher paying to have his meat graded there must be a reasonable expectation that the meat is going to be graded choice or better. This way the rancher can sell his beef at a higher price and justify the cost of grading. If the ranchers expectation is that the bulk of his lot of cattle is not going to grade out choice or better, then it's financially pointless to pay to have the meat graded. The meat is then classified an ungraded no-roll and boxed as such. Having said that, it is indeed likely that a superb piece of meat may come out of that box. Just as likely that an utter piece of shite may come out of it also. But it is the ranchers opinion that there would not be a financial upside to having his meat graded which implies that the meat in question is going to average out to be less than choice. Thanks for listening Nick

Serving the next course after forgetting to replenish the silver. Then having to wait while they fetch it. Nick

BD how about: " an 18% gratuity will automatically be added to parties of 6 or more" ??? When I was in the hotels, the waitstaff would draw straws over who got the europeans. They never seemed to realize that sevice was definitely not comprise. Nick

Maybe not Rosie. My res was just pushed back to 9/24. I knew they were'nt going to be ready. Way behind from the looks of it. I ate twice at McCormick & Kuleto's in San Fran. Same chain. The food, service and decor are a step up from Legal Seafood. Nick

would you then deduct that tip amount from your dinner tip amount, since you've already tipped it? Probably not, Tommy. Though Mrs. Nick would. I don't keep track of a tip for a couple of drinks at the bar. What I leave at the bar is usually out of all proprtion to what I leave the waiter (percentagewise). Besides it boosts the waiters tip afew bucks. I don't see the big deal. Nick

Well it's open. I had lunch there two weeks ago as part of their test runs. hands down the best damn crab cakes I've ever eaten. Worth the trip just for these. My wife had a lunch steak salad...merely pedestrian and florsheim at that. They won't steal customer's with this one. Two serviceable Caesar Salads (tasted of real anchovy and garlic) and a boring little Rasberry Sabayon. Open bar for the duration of lunch was nice. 2 Caesars 1 Crabcakes Main course 1 Warm steak Salad 1 Raspberry Sabayon 6 glasses Beringer Chard 113.00 (gratis) + 25.00 for waiter (this was paid by us) Handsome room. Very masculine and clubby. Next up: test run at McCormick & Schmick's this Thursday. Nick

So now the poachers can sell their illegal catch *everywhere* but New Jersey. It's a silly law with very little reasoning behind it. Quite unenforceable from the supply side also. That is unless the NJ fish police have figured out a way to stop and inspect all the FEDEX and UPS trucks at the GWB *before* they enter the state to deliver their contraband RI, LI, CT, and Mass striper. All wild stripers I've seen have been tagged by the states of origin. Nick

I hate having to 'settle up' with the barman when my table is ready. I want someone to announce my table, place my drinks on a tray and direct me to my table. My liquor bill should appear on my dinner check. I've already waited for my table. I don't wish to wait longer while my card is swiped. I'm quite capable of leaving a 5 or 10 for the barman and will carry those denominations whenever I go out with the sole purpose in mind of tipping the bartender (along with singles or fives to take care of valet parkers, coatcheck, and the increasingly rare restroom attendants). I carry sufficient cash for gratuities even when using plastic. I think the practice is rude, especially in places where the average check tops 100 dollars. Nick

FYI: The stainless steel thingie is commonly refered to as a "Kurly Kate". disclaimer: I recuse myself from discussions about all-clad. I have shilled for them in return for recompense. aside, sotto voce': The best non-stick I've ever used! Nick

Well grades *are* guides. I've certainly cut much beef stamped choice that was far superior to beef stamped prime. I've cut into no-rolls that have been the same. I think it's about percentages. So the probability statement is pretty accurate. As in your probability of getting a great PH steak is going to be greater at Luger's than elsewhere. Can you still get a clunker there? Sure. But it's *probably* far less likely than somewhere else. Niman ranch? I plead 'not qualified'. I've only eaten a burger made from their beef. Hardly the basis for a broad opinion. Even though it isn't USDA graded, it is by the using the established Niman Ranch marque, a defacto grade implying certain qualities about the meat. Nick

Hi Peter, To attempt to address your points: I think we've implied that London Broil is merely a seasoned broiled piece steak, suitable for slicing. My experience with meat venders and my own butchering experience (certainly not the end all on the subject) have led me to the purists view that flank steak is the way to go here. Others have pointed out that the only commanality is what I've stated at the beginning of the post. I agree with you that anything could be used for this method of preparation (though Flank seems to be the most commonly suggested cut). Re CAB beef. The marketing hyperbole can indeed be offputting. however I disagree with you on a couple of points. According to people in the business who I know and whose opinions I respect (D&B, Master Purveyors, Wotiz Meats), CAB is culled from the top 25% of the selected choice angus heifers and steers. This also according to their own website (certifiedangusbeef.com). There is much beef marketed as Angus (Aurora Angus is another brand), and with the dumbing down of the grading system over the past 25 years, it pays to get to know a good, knowledgable and trusted meat man/woman. As far as no-rolls (ungraded beef) are concerned. Well it's a cost issue and a lottery IMO. You can get some great no-roll beef. You can also get some truly gnarly shite, often packed in the same box as the good. There's a reason a packer chooses not to grade his beef, and it may turn up on your loading dock at some point (usually the day of a PPX party), so I won't use them anymore (I have at some of the hotels I've worked in), my bottom line is quality and member satisfaction...there's no percentage in it for me to use an ungraded piece of meat.. Thanks for listening Nick

The backbone is cartiliginous. Used to pick 'em up gnaw the meat off one side. Flip 'em over and samewise t'other. No pin (lateral) bones to get in your way just firm filet on each side of the backbone. Nick

Jeez, i always thought "The Young Ones" were a pretty good 'Bizzaro World' take on the 'Three Stooges/Ritz bros./Marx Bros'. Nick

Yes FG I have also seen shoulder cuts labeled as such. As We've discussed previously it tends to be a dynamic. It's a market name so it can be whatever people want. Your shoulder is probably most flavorful due to the cut. I've most often seen it as flank, so that's what it is to me. Being such a catholic bastard, it'll prolly remain so . Though most 'supermarket' LB seems to be top round. Wilfred -- A jacquard machine is a spring action thingie comprised of an aray of razor sharp needles. It's used to tenderize meat without degrading its appearence. Nick

I think oyster cut is a market term which comprises a piece of the top round that includes a piece of rather soft tender meat. Think of it as 'center cut top round'. True London Broil is a flank heart or a piece of Flank Steak, somewhat thinner, stringier and having the potential to cook much tougher if abused. A little jacquard action solves this problem and allows a marinade to penetrate. In any event Flank (london broil) should be sliced across the grain. The top round version can't be sliced this way due to the nature of the cut. and is generally sliced as one would slice the sirloin part of a Luger porterhouse. Hope this helps Nick

Works great. Very delicate and silky. Cook till they float. These things are delicate so you want to get the filling just hot. I seal the edges with a little egg white. edit: Tommy's correct, it won't replace real pasta sheets, but I prefer the texture of the wonton skin and within certain cooking contexts actually find them superior. Nick

Seasoned flour and fry like chicken (I'm assuming you have filets with the tail and cartiliginous backbone attached), then eat like corn on the cob. edit:Pop and I used to fish these things by the dozen off the manasquan inlet in NJ. They're a type of puffer. Nick

Pureed with cream and a touch of leek and potato. At service we stir in lobster, mount with plugra and pour into a bowl. A small quenelle of whipped creme fraiche set in the center finished with a demitasse spoons worth of beluga. It's a rip from a cold soup I had at Hubert keller's Fleur de Lys a coupla weeks ago. I added the heat and the herbed creme fraiche and changed the caviar to beluga. I had a version of just pureed cauliflower (and superb it was) at a restaurant called 'Yvan' in Paris. It has stayed with me always and I dust it off and give it a twist ocassionally. Nick

Oh thank you, sandra. I almost got into a rockem-sockem with a maitre'd over this. It was during a banquet. Nick

Oxtails. My favorite food group! I'll make ravioli from them next week. Magnolia-I flour and sear the oxtails (cut 1in. thick). Make a mire-poix cut small (onion, carrot, celery) and sautee along with some shallot and garlic. Place in a pan with some good stock (jus deveau, fond de veau or better yet demi-glace). Cover tightly place in a 300-325F oven and let 'er rip for about 2&1/2-3 hours. Voila!...Queue de Boeuf! (thyme, rosemary, marjoram..whatever herbage floats yer boat as well as S&P) Nick

No that was the wine selection, I didn't pick it...promise! Red chilis, rice vin, ginger, kaffir lime, lemon grass, etc. etc. I did use the iceberg lettuce, though. Felt the salad started life as finger food with the lettuce used as a wrapper. Liza- I figured if the oxtails didn't sell, I could bring it home to eat. I was correct Kenny the sous added thin baked pieces of seqsoned phyllo dough cut into triangles. He then layered them with the crab. This tower was surrounded with the grapefruit segments and avocado. The chicken with chorizo sold pretty well. I was surprised. What the hell. I served three 18 pound pigs the following night at a club event. Only one complaint that the pigs were indecorous. Nick

This week's menu, only ran it for one service, though Shrimp Cocktail...14. Fried Calamari; Asian Style Dipping Sauce...10. Napoleon of Peeky Toe Crab Avocado and Grapefruit...12. Cauliflower Bisque; Lobster and Caviar...11. Thai Beef Salad Scallions, Cilantro and Red Chili Sauce...8. Seared Foie Gras; Apple Rhubarb Compote and Fig Glaze...14. Oxtails over Soft Polenta; Chanterelle Mushrooms and Shaved Parmigiano Reggiano...10 Pan Roasted Monkfish Filet - Cabbage and Bacon; Garlic Mashed Potatoes...20 Broiled Pompano Filet – Plantain Crisps and Glazed Mango...23 Chardonnay Swordfish Steak – Roasted Asparagus and Saffron Mashed Potato French Cut Breast of Chicken –Chorizo, Black Beans and Onion Frizzle...19 Loin Filet of Veal – Pan Seared, Served over Polentacwith Mushrooms and Haricot Verts...22 Thanks all Nick

Oh, I know nothing about the restaurant. I just liked the way the review was written. Tying the coffee thing throughout as a kind of sub theme. Adding criticisms where needed and quickly moving on to the next thing. He likes the long specials recitation. I don't. But that's okay. I Just thought the piece read pretty well as restaurant criticism. I like the way the piece flows and the lack of pedantry. I'd like to see more of it. Nick

Thanks FG and Suzanne. I have issues going back a couple of years. If you give me the ref I'll have a llook. Nick