ngatti

Went on Tuesday. Walked the floor a coupla three times. Sampled all the NY State wines. realized that the show wasn't for the likes of me. Ditched the Robert Parker seminar I'd signed up for and opted for lunch at Esca. Very nice and nice of them to take me as a single walk-in. the place was smokin' due to Vinexpo. Great bartender, grew up over the B&H, so we had plenty to talk about. Met his wife (end of service, she came to meet him) who happened to be the Fromagier at Picholine, so *we* had plenty to talk about. Actually the conversation ran more towards the difficulties that we run into trying to raise and hold families together while working in this crazy business. Walked the Deuce for a while and met a fellow eGulleteer, whom I turned my badge over to, as I wasn't attending the show on Wedsnday and Thursday. Not bad for a day off. Kind of day that keeps ya goin'. Cheers Nick

in, prolly for one. Nick

Brother?? Nick

Mon., Tues., Thurs. Nick

me too, me too!!

Hello folks--quite some time ago rail paul suggested a shadow review team to act as a foil to the restaurant critics at the Bergen Record and Star Ledger. While I vaguely like the idea, I must say that the choice made to dine and post a description of my meal at 28 Oak had little to do with that suggestion. I was hungry, having slept in after a brutal weekend, and missing breakfast at Fink's for the second time in as many weeks. I realized the restaurant had been open for almost 3 years and that I haven't yet eaten there. These circumstances coupled with the facts that chef/owner Lee Ganbarg is a friend, and that the place is open on Monday prompted me to drive into Ridgewood for lunch today. I'd like to get some light housekeeping disclaimers out of the way first: 1)I post restaurant meal decriptions as an average, but knowledgable diner, based on *one* meal as opposed to the multiple visits that professional critics use. 2)I'm usually known to the chefs and owners of the restaurants that I dine in here in Bergen County. Consequently I tend to receive a bit of extra attention paid to my tables. 3)There was no quid pro quo involving my meal at 28 Oak. But I must add that on many occasions when I dine out locally there is much proffered quid that is graciously accepted without any gratuitious quo. This was not the case here. 4)I will usually only post about local meals that I liked. I see no point in taking shots at the restaurants of people that occupy the same small pond as I do. I have few friends and I'd like to keep them. There are plenty of others here that will post opinions about bad meals and shoddy service. I leave it to them. Bad meals and bad restaurants will be noted by my loud silence regarding them. 5)Conversely, I do not shill gratuitiously for people and this includes friends. I have nothing to offer but my word on this. take it for what it's worth. It's all I have. Lunch at 28 Oak in Ridgewood: My wife and I stepped down through the doors of a lovely Bistro in the center of Ridgewood today. Greeted by the Chef and his wife we were seated at the front of the narrow restaurant. An oak leaf motif runs through the decor of the restaurant, settling on the upholstry and the cute lamps placed on each table. A sunny bright front room gives way to an inviting long banquette lined dining room. These being separated by an attractive brass rail. Warm crusty rolls were delivered to the table along with ramekins of sweet butter. Lunch menus were presented and orders taken. An array of appetizers, salads, pastas, and main courses comprise the menu. there is not very much that is not touched upon. Plates going to other tables were attractively presented. No apps for my wife, but for me, the soup of the day. A bowl of Black Bean with Chipotle Aioli and Shrimp. A thin puree of black beans with strong (not harsh) chipotle flavors providing counterpoint. Very round tasting. The balance of flavors extending to the textures of crunchy red onion and soft grape tomato, the dish completed with the addition of a tender shrimp. Main courses were next. For my wife a Sliced Steak set on a bed of nicely cooked spinach and carved carrots in a properly rich Bordelaise sauce. A well executed retro garnish of of potato croquettes complete the dish. For me gossamer pillows of Braised Duck Ravioli with Butternut Squash. The ravioli constructed from wonton wrappers. The light and delicate wrappers act as foil to the well flavored filling and the nuanced broth. Cubes of cooked butternut squash scattered about the plate complete the understated, 'less is more' presentation. Desserts were of the "New American Bistro" style. the requisite creme brulee, warm chocalte cake, crisps etc. My warm chocolate cake was good but didn't stand out. My wifes apple crisp on the other hand was very good and came with a crisp streusal topping that was as tasty as it was interesting. An order of cappucino completes the dish. This was a satisfying meal. Now that business has slowed a bit, I have more opportunity to get out and sample some restaurants. I must say that after dining at many of the upscale mall based chains, that the food and service at 28 Oak is superior. The dining experince is certainly more intimate and genuinely friendly. Taken together with the excellent food, the decision to eat here becomes a no-brainer. Being able to get out of the place for $50.00 for two (that was the price for all that was described) makes this one of the areas lunch bargains! This is a place that I feel deserves some attention. I don't think you'll be disapointed. Thanks for listening Nick

I believe gone. Nick

You axed for it. Nick

One of my fave movies...alltime!! Gonna pop it in the DVD after the game. Thanx Tommy Nick

Yep. Back into therapy now. Thanks Jeff, for dredging up all those memories. But it was better than Schaeffer [hurlchunks]@#$#@%[/hurlchunks] Nick

Perhaps, but I've yet to see a buildup on sheetpans. The commercial sprays also help the quilon sheets along. Re buildup: You should see the glaze buildup on a large heavily used grill from the olive oil in fiorentina marinades. One thing that I've found the sprays invaluable for (and I thank nightscotsman for a possible explanation) is grilled fish or turkey burgers. No matter how hot my cast iron grates are, fish will occasionally stick. Turkey Burgers invariably. Spraying the cooking surface of the *food* to be cooked works wonders. The sprays work much better than wiping oil or butter, which people perceive as sullying the so-called fat-free/reduced calorie, nature of these foods. This isn't to say that they are superior in all uses. Just that, as with any tool, they have their *best* application. These are some of the things that I've found them useful for. Nick

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Kinda like pornagraphy. You may not be able to describe it, but you'll know it when you see (in this case, taste) it. Nick

Tuesday AM. I forget the seminar I signed up for. It's on the newletter. Maybe see ya there. Nick

I go through 2 cases of crisco pan release a week. I couple it with quilon bparchment sheets. The crisco is *very* neutral in flavor and for some reason works better than pam. FG is right, for a home cook a paper towel and your choice of fat works fine I do a lot more than most people and I'd be filling a misto 50+ times a day. I have a misto and use it for spraying oil on salads. Nick

Cheesecloth, chinois mousseline. The stuff comes out crystal clear. As I said, I don't use the stuff ladled off the top during the cooking process. Rather the disc that floats to the top and congeals upon chilling, is removed and any bits clinging to the bottom of the disc are scraped off. Melt strain again and it should be ready for use. To my mind there shouldn't be anything more in the fat than there would be in the stock itself. Flavors from herbs or mire-poix are another thing so from a flavor standpoint the fats used would be restricted. Nick

crisco Nick

After carefully straining the fat, Ive found it quite usable as schmalz for latkes and such. The trick has been to not add to much clovey type of herbs to the stock that flavor the fat and tend to sully things with off flavors. I"ve used 25 pound cubes of rendered chicken fat, rendered my own and used this skimmed fat. For those select uses (Latkes primarily), I haven't found any problem. This is just my experience, YMMV. BTW, don't use the crud that you periodically skim form the stock during cooking. Jin is correct, this stuff is gnarly. Use the stuff from the top of the cooled stock after it's strained and cooled. Nick

So you guys drinkin' after dinner?? This place have a bar? Nick

If Jin comes to NYC, we're gonna' need the Grand Ballroom at the Hilton! Nick

It was funnier without the edit, Jin. Just knowing that I *could have* turned the tables was enough. No need to reply in kind. Nick

Only one story. Back in our salad days I took my fiance (now wife) out to dinner in a pretty fancy local restaurant here in Bergen County. The cost of the meal represented close to a weeks salary to me. The restaurant was (at the time) a very fancy shmancy french restaurant. We arrived and were seated at a banquette side by side. Being the young lovers we were, we wanted to sit facing each other. So my wife moved into one of the chairs across from me. The hostess/maitrde'ss, who happened to be the wife part of the husband(chef) wife(front of the house) owners/mgmt team, quickly rushed over to our table to see what was the matter. As we explained what we were doing, she quickly, in her experienced, "I know what's best/follow me" voice told us that we would probably be more comfortable at another table. We then followed her, past groups of expensively tailored men and women, to said table. Very isolated and...RIGHT NEXT TO THE KITCHEN!! I was kind of vaguely uncomfortable and my fiance was somewhat puzzled. We were very young, this was over twenty years ago. I had very little dining experience and didn't realize we were being played based on our appearence. We were dressed up but not expensively so and we were years younger than anyone else in the place. Upon reflection, it was probably obvious that we didn't fit in. This woman certainly had definite ideas as to who should occupy choice tables at the front of the restaurant. We proceeded to eat some of the worst imitation french food that I've ever experienced in my life. Talk about a shoemaker. True artificial bistro junk. I sat and took it. The indignities being piled one upon the other slowly dawning on me. By the time I left I was truly pissed and embarrased. Pissed at myself for taking the treatment like a punk-ass mutha' and embarassed for having it take place in front of my girlfriend. I vowed right then and there that i would never, ever let myself be intimidated by a restaurant again. Since that time, I have never ceased to trash talk the place at *every* opportunity. Reciting my experience chapter and verse to anyone who'd listen. Time passes and the restaurant has gone out of business, unable to keep up with the changing culinary scene. The chef has passed away and I've met the wife on a couple of occasions since. Of course she has no idea who I am. On those occasions when she has come into my restaurant to dine she has always been treated graciously and with the utmost respect. Nick

Here is the link folks. I've not yet read them deeply. This weeks restaurant reviews Nick

Check out the MSN home page right now. This article was picked up and is the lead story on the page edit: gone (idiot, why didn't i post a link?) :scratch head: FYI Nick

Welcome back Lou, It's great to read ya again. Nick

This is what I wrote dodge. I detect puzzlement, but no unhappiness Nick