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Posts posted by ahr
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Ducasse's method is similar to Colicchio's for the pan-roasted sirloin described in Think Like a Chef, the main difference being that the former browns the steak in its rendered edge fat, while the latter browns in oil, and does the edges later. Both cook the meat slowly, both stand their steaks on edge, and both baste with butter with garlic or herbs in the latter stages of cooking.
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Just remember, all you low-carb dieters, it ain't just flourless, but also sugarless, that counts.
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Chocolate does indeed contain some useful antioxidants, but, M. Montignac notwithstanding, that hardly makes it a health food, especially for low-carbohydrate dieters for whom sugar intake must be essentially nil. Substituting unsweetened chocolate and artificial sweetener can work pretty well, but the results will not be identical, especially if the recipe calls for lots of chocolate and lots of sugar.
As for posting recipes, there's a tedious discussion of copyrights and such somewhere in eGullet Announcements.
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It's not quite cheese and not quite cake, but... try a cheesecake! Take any standard recipe (I've been using the one from The Best Recipe, which is similar to all other cheesecake recipes), and do the following:
- Replace the sugar with an equal measure of cooking/baking Splenda.
- Replace the graham-cracker crust with one of ground nuts (I use hazelnuts, plus a few almonds), Splenda, and cinnamon. Don't forget the butter.
A friend also bakes a beautiful chocolate-mocha cake using, I think, almond flour, unsweetened chocolate, Mascarpone, (eggs?), instant espresso, slivered almonds, and, of course, Splenda.
Unsweetened chocolate plus artificial sweetener doesn't produce exactly the taste and texture of "real" bittersweet chocolate, but at this point in your diet you may not notice, and won't care.
Finally, I assume that you're following Dr. Atkins' program. Have you tried any of the dessert recipes in his diet books and cookbooks?
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Addendum:
If your diet includes some fruit, consider simmering a half-cup of berries, along with sweetener, a drop of lemon juice, and maybe a bit of butter, and plopping the cooled mixture decoratively in the center of the above cheesecake after cooling the cake to room temperature but prior to refrigerating it. Making enough topping to cover it entirely would compromise your carb count, and anyway, a well-made cheesecake needs little ornamentation.
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Glad to hear it. I'm dieting vicariously through you, so it was a rough couple of days there.
I’m glad to be able to return a favor. Your writing has provided the vicarious gluttony needed to help keep me on the straight and narrow.
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President Clinton's foray into Harlem was newsworthy exactly because it was so unusual...
Let's not give our ex too much credit. Remember, his first choice was the tower overlooking Carnegie Hall (not Carnegie Hill), but the public quite literally refused to buy it.
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Dude, what's happening to your diet? Do we need to get all the members together for an intervention?
Now firmly back on the wagon, I describe my Diet Annihilation 2 1/2 Days in disgusting detail in another thread.
Thanks for caring.
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I tried Di Fara's yesterday for the first time, having plain slices both Neapolitan and Sicilian. Crust, sauce, cheese, oil, herbs -- the place deserves all its accolades. Nothing in my neighborhood, now or when I was growing up, even comes close. A new favorite.
Two minor complaints: The round lost style points for tip droop. Intentional undercooking in anticipation of slice reheating doesn't seem a fit explanation, as this was the lunch peak, and each pie was sold instantly, fresh from the oven. More disconcerting were the shady cultist types lurking in corners, displaying secret hand signs and cards, perhaps preparing to mate.
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Quick update:
Balducci's... Good filling; unpleasantly greasy mouth feel to the crumbs; don't remember the crust. Not terrible, but significantly overpriced.
Union Square Greenmarket (vendor immediately north of the northernmost BMT exit on the park's west side)... Not crumb (latticed instead), and not really a pie, though pie-shaped -- more like my mother's delicious blueberry coffee cake. Tasty, thick, soft, buttery crust; relatively few whole berries with minimal goo.
Jean Danet French Pastries (Bay Ridge). Better than Balducci's at a third the price (though a bit smaller in diameter). Not Ebinger's, but pretty good filling, crust, and crumbs.
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Did you know he had an automatic locking system installed in the staff restroom that requires hands to be washed with soap before opening the door?
That might be an interesting Goldbergian contraption to see. Potential visitors please note: There appears to be no customer-accessible restroom.
How were the menus priced and offered? Was there an actual "tasting menu?"
The tasting was my own idea ("one of each dark chocolate, please, plus those cute little truffes"), though the presentation was the house's. Shall we suggest suggest a dark flight, a milk flight, a paired comparison menu for each filling available in both dark and light, and so forth? Prices felt moderate -- each chocolate was $0.80 (though the thin butter crunch came in pairs), and the baked goods, I think, $1.50 each.
What kind of foot traffic was there while you were there?
The second table was occupied for about one hour on a Thursday afternoon from 12:30 through 3. Counter traffic, of course, came in clumps, but on average I'd say that there was one person being served at most times. Last week, on the walking trip described earlier in this thread, I found Valentine's business queued out into the street. I also understand that mornings and Saturdays see more Continental-breakfast traffic.
And you mention sugar shock--were things a bit sweeter than your palate prefers?
By absolutely no means; the comment was facetious. I've been on a weight-loss regimen the principal principle of which is the avoidance of sweets, so this was like a brief but delightul visit to a foreign land.
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Dr. Atkins forgive us, a friend and I spent a long, languorous, sugary afternoon yesterday at one of the two tiny tables (three, actually, but one is used for display) in M. Torres’ sunny storefront. Both the kitchen and the old, industrial waterfront backstreet were visible through large windows.
APPETIZERS. Crisp, flaky, tender, buttery chocolate and cheese breads, and croissants. It might be worth arising early to try them first thing in the morning, fresh out of the oven. Large cups of regular and spicy (chili and nutmeg?) hot chocolate, frothed at the cappuccino spigot, more a beverage and less a confection than at my other favorite, Payard, which serves tiny shots of what I recall as little more than melted chocolate and cream.
MAIN COURSES. A tasting menu of one of each available dark-chocolate item, plus two special truffles of the day (a chocolate rum and a fresh orange), served, Zen-like, on a sort of sushi stoneware platter. Though memories of La Maison are too distant (three months) to compare the quality of the chocolate itself, the style was very different (more American?) and the fillings amazingly fresh-tasting and intense, particularly the fruit and ground-nut candies and an unusual and delicious Earl Grey tea. (I came to this conclusion before reading the brochure, which emphasizes freshness and concentration. It was fun, though, to identify each chocolate by its picture and study its contents at the table.) Also, excellent cappuccino, distinguished for me by not being overloaded with milk.
DESSERTS. See Appetizers and Main Courses, above.
Take-out nut bark, candied ginger, and chocolate-coated almonds have yet to be sampled. The vibe is cheerful and friendly. Additional baked goods are reputed to be available Saturday mornings. The good Dr. Atkins would be proud after all; before leaving, we took our vitamins.
In the evening, we had a lovely dinner at Le Gigot, but I haven’t the energy to write it up now – sugar shock, no doubt.
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I've been to SKI a few times in clement weather, eating on a bench in the plaza fronting an apartment house one block north on Eighth Avenue.
Does anyone know of a nearby indoor space, like a public atrium, for when the weather's crummy? The 57th Street BMT station isn't a very pleasant lunchroom.
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There's nothing wrong with spicy ethnic places. If we got enough people together at Grand Sichuan, we could order twenty or thirty portions of kung pao chicken (with fresh chicken, of course).
Actually, dinner at Sripraphai might be fun. Especially for those who ordinarily venture into Queens only reluctantly, it might afford a one-time opportunity to sample widely of their menu.
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Sorry to hear. I have the fondest memories of the old place -- though none more recent than ten years' ago -- and the crackers, snapper soup, steamers (best ever!), and twice-cooked lobsters.
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My mileage may vary from yours, since I live in a Brooklyn neighborhood with a residual Italian presence, but I have within two blocks’ distance no fewer than three pizza joints each no worse (though no better) than those recalled from my too-distant childhood. I’ve yet to visit the much-hyped DiFara’s, nor have I tried L&B since high school, though I recall L&B as serving good Sicilian, but Neapolitan topped with what tasted like cheddar cheese.
Despite the brick-oven similarity, my two favorite “destination” parlors, Grimaldi’s and Lombardi’s, differ substantially in style, most especially when they screw up -- the former going limp and soggy, the latter leathery and burnt. I’m also not sure that I understand Lombardi’s clam pizza; based on a single sample, it’s an enormous pile of rubbery minced clams, which may be fresh but could just as well be canned, and not at all like Pepe’s somewhat Spartan benchmark. Grimaldi’s also serves pretty good cannoli.
As of a year ago, two decent places in the Wall Street area were Frankie and Johnnie’s (which closed, but has since reopened a few blocks away from its original Pearl Street location) and Cucina Bene on Exchange Place. (Cucina Bene anecdote: One of those double-decker tour buses was stuck in traffic on Exchange Place, and the tour guide, apparently having run out of genuine landmarks to describe, shouted “and on your left is the world-famous Cucina Bene Restaurant.” What could the out-of-towners thus possibly have concluded about New York dining?)
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Nu, so how come nobody mentioned bacon fat?
The best real home fries have always been served in roadside greasy spoons where huge mounds of browned, softened potatoes, flecked with onion and green pepper, sat happily alongside (and were cooked in at least partially in the grease of) the sizzling bacon.
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Dinner tonight at Grimaldi’s (née Patsy’s, née Patsy Grimaldi’s) in Brooklyn. Since last visit, Italian staff replaced by Hispanics at ovens, Russians elsewhere. Changed for the better: less droop; for the worse: fresh basil strewn more sparsely atop, added so early that it chars; otherwise, pizza at least as good as ever. Roasted peppers in antipasto still yummy, but fewer olives, and tough, too-dry cheese (pizza and antipasto seemingly having differing requirements, mozzarella-wise). Delicious, malty Brooklyn lager, pretty good cannoli out of the fridge, frothy, slightly weak cappuccino. Compared to Lombardi’s (my Manhattan favorite): thinner, less leathery crust and fresher tomato sauce, in more boisterous, less charming setting. Worth the trip. Crowded even at 5 p.m.
Actually, the pizza was just a diet-busting prelude to a Vivaldi and Handel program at Bargemusic, performed by a septet of accomplished artists, at least one possessed of star-quality technique. The barge is a 150-seat, woodsy hall, illuminated mainly by candles and a fireplace, afloat on the Brooklyn side of the East River alongside the River Café, and just the sort of intimate (not to say romantic) venue that I much prefer, at least for small music, to the Lincoln Center pomp and scene. The acoustics are excellent, and the musicians discuss the pieces they are about to play, interacting, even kibitzing, with the audience. The (sadly abbreviated) Manhattan skyline bobs spectacularly up and down and side to side in the picture windows behind the stage, but it vanishes once the music starts.
A plate of cheese, fruit, and crackers, and pastries, wine, coffee, and bottled water are available at the rear essentially at cost.
If you enjoy classical music, check their schedule at www.bargemusic.org.
(Edited by ahr at 1:27 am on Dec. 21, 2001)
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Quote: from NewYorkTexan on 9:47 am on Sep. 5, 2001
That is a rough problem to have, I wish I was in your shoes
Regrettably, I'm not wearing them; I'm on the outside, trying to cadge an invitation. My '82s will be in storage for few more years.
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This thread hasn't prompted much discussion, so I thought I'd bump it up top again with a status report.
Does anyone know of a blueberry crumb pie that will satisfy yearnings for the long-gone Ebinger's huckleberry? Balducci's sells an oversized, good-looking pie of unknown provenance, and Bigelow's Clams out on the Island serves a pretty tasty slice, but that's all I've dug up so far.
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Two friends who share a case of 1982 Chateau Lafite Rothschild and a case of 1982 Chateau Figeac are about to remove their wine from storage. One intends to sell his bottles, but the sensible one is looking for suggestions as how best to consume the precious liquids, especially that first bottle. Take it to a special restaurant? (But which?) Prepare an extravagant meal? (But what?) Simply sip it by the fire with a bit of bread and cheese?
Suggestions are solicited herewith. No prize will be awarded. "Invite me over" does not count as a suggestion; neither does "Give it here."
(Edited by ahr at 11:46 pm on Sep. 4, 2001)
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It must be blueberry, a pie, and more or less traditional. I haven't yet put much effort into research, as I won't need it for a few weeks (by which time those tiny wild blueberries may well be out of season, I fear); nonetheless,
- Upon quick inspection, only one Wednesday baker at the Union Square Greenmarket, selling from a generic rent-a-truck at the northernmost exit from the NQ<Q>RW subway, looked to use anything but the dreaded Generic Vegetable Shortening. These folks advertised not lard, but at least "a lovely butter crust."
- According to their price list, the Little Pie Company, whose tender, high-domed old-fashioned apple pies I like even better than their more acclaimed sour cream apple walnut, makes only cherry and multi-berry pies, and not pure b-berry.
- A microscopic free sample of blueberry pound cake at Eli's on Third Avenue was incredibly rich and buttery, but the pies remain a mystery.
There hasn't been too much action in this thread. Perhaps I'll prospect elsewhere and report back.
[This may merit a separate thread: The heirloom tomatoes this year, particularly those from Sycamore Farms, have been excellent.]
(Edited by ahr at 11:06 pm on Aug. 23, 2001)
(Edited by ahr at 11:12 pm on Aug. 23, 2001)
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Having recently accomplished the miracle of traversing Maine without sampling so much as a bite of blueberry pancake or pie, I’m planning to compensate when blowing my diet in a few weeks on my birthday.
Already planned is breakfast of pancakes at Shopsin’s in the Village, but still I crave the pie. So, who has the city’s best blueberry pie? Tiny wild berries are a plus, as is a crumb topping (does anybody remember Ebinger’s huckleberry crumb pie?), but neither is absolutely necessary.
Suggestions?
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I’m currently in the weight-loss phase of a low-carbohydrate diet.
LAST NIGHT’S DINNER: Heirloom tomatoes and Boston lettuce dressed with mayonnaise, Bleu d’Auvergne, and a bit of freshly ground pepper. Sautéed rib steak topped with a deglazing sauce of stock, powdered dried mushrooms, shallots, celery seed, fresh rosemary, and a butter finish. A few haricots verts with a bit of butter. A small handful of fresh blueberries with a bit of heavy cream. Freshly squeezed lemonade. Freshly brewed decaffeinated Sumatran coffee.
THIS MORNING’S BREAKFAST: Bacon, shallot, and mixed leftover-cheese omelet. More of that Sumatran decaf. Sunday-morning political programming.
Deadly boring? I think not! Low-carb dieting can be healthful, varied, and fun, once you get the hang of it.
(Edited by ahr at 1:05 pm on Aug. 12, 2001)
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No eggs?
I don't want to provoke a battle over the current low-fat "prudent diet" fad, which might become contentious as any other political debate (which it is, as much as medical), but have a look-see at www.atkinscenter.com. Click in particular on the "FAQs" and "News & Research" links.
Quote: from Simon Majumdar on 3:48 pm on Aug. 9, 2001Help
I am on a low carb diet ( Dr's orders after high blood pressure scare ) proving to be a bit on the difficult side as apart from cheese, nuts meat etc and a little fruit and stuff I am struggling to find a varied diet that is not too rich in red meat and fats
Upside I have lost nearly 20lbs. Downside, bored out of my skull
Any ideas? And if any one suggests a nice omlette, I am flying over there with a pointy stick and bad intentions:)
NY regional dinner
in New York: Dining
Posted
King Wu, indeed, run by Madame Wu. Sizzling-rice soup, moo shu pork, Day-Glo sweet 'n' sour shrimp, shredded beef with carrots and black pepper (here it starts to get hazy)... Oh, sweet, innocent days of youth.